cyif2003:
He said he will need to reprogram it and scan again for a particular code. But he didn't come with d machine.

You don't need to reprogram anything.
What kind of scanner did your guy used?

vivalavida:


Who do I approach to do that? Na mechanic and rewire I know.

Neither a mechanic or a rewire.
Meet people that sells speakers, they should direct you to people that fix.

Dozieson:


How did you know it didn't drop?
Best way to check is to warm the car and check if the oil is at the hot level of the dip stick

Where you wan see dip stick?
Besides, why would you even suggest he starts the car and allow it get warm for a transmission that's already showing signs of going dead?
Cyif2003, Chukel suggested you perform a transmission oil flush. That's your best bet, but now the problem go con be who get the right pump wey go help you flush the system properly.
As advised in a different thread, scan the transmission without starting the car (key in the ignition or push twice for the dashboard lights to come up if equipped with a push to start system). I'm expecting to see some solenoid codes.
Try addressing the code, drain the oil, take out the filter (it has to be done in a clean environment), refill the oil with original Toyota WS oil, perform an oil level check (good luck with that), then go for a test drive.

Judejibs:
the vsc came on when steering was loosened during allignment

If the spiral cable is still good, recalibrating the steering angle sensor should fix the light.

omotolsy:
Thank you.
But that is the question i have asked above.
I am asking for help on a referral where all that can be done.

Call 07089030689 for assistance

[quote author=walexy14 post=127123837][/quote]
Engine side could be from anywhere.
Your technician would have to take a look at it to ascertain where it's leaking from.
Or better still, take a pics of where it's leaking so the online community can suggest where to look at.

SpeedRacer:
Good evening, please i have an issue with 2010 corolla .
Theres a single clunk noise when coming to a halt, when accelerating and when turning sometimes, also when going over bumps or driving through rough roads.
Kazeem has checked , I to have checked because I'm very good at DIy but I'm unable to find any play in the suspension.
I'm considering getting a second opinion because I don't like driving with strange noises.

Inspect everything that has rubber bushings from your engine mounts, transmission mounts, arms, rack bushings etc, you'll find the culprit.

Judejibs:
Car gurus in the house Kindly help.
Corolla 2010 always throws up check engine. When scanned it says system too Lean bank 1. My mechanic has cleaned nozzle, replaced plugs. Still the fault persists. Car working fine, the fault clears on its own and returns on its own at intervals.
Also my steering was loosened for alignment and VSC keeps flashing won't go off I guess the steering angle sensor needs calibration. How can I reset it.

You'll need a live data reading to know what's causing the lean code.
Same applies to your VSC. Scan and take readings to know what's off.

Dozieson:


Just get a good mechanic. Always be there when repairs are ongoing. Watch what they are doing

Story.
A quack is a quack weda you carry chair sit down with him or not. Wetin wan happen go happen.
Besides not everybody enjoys having their clients breathing on them while working.

Fieryblaze:
This car wants to kill me. I don't even know where to start listing problems. I spend at least 50k on repairs every month, I am that person that hears the slightest sound in my vehicle and the next day I am at the mechanic. I thought they said if you take care of your car it wouldn't disturb you.
The latest issue this car is giving me now is very stiff steering, I changed the steering fluid, flushed the system, it is still stiff. My worry now is should I change the pump? Will that not affect the steering rack?
I am tired. And the mechanics around me are so terrible, I am tired of mechanics, calling steering pump 70k, I am tired of this country, everybody just wants to collect the small that is with you. I digress The Car is a 2008 ES350.
Ooooh I forgot to add that the cruise control also stopped working around the same time this stiff steering issue started. I don't even know if that's a related problem or it is a stand alone issue. I am 100% sure my mechanic would not know what to do about the cruise control. I just need help abeg.

For the cruise control issue, did you take out the steering rack for repairs?
If you did, your spiral cable is bad (all thanks to your mechanic).

cyif2003:
Good morn. I changed my both left and right shaft of my 2010 Camry. But after picking up my car Nd driving for a while I noticed dat once I accelerate d gear does not selected freely. Infact it can't go higher Dan gear 1. It can't even reverse again. My mechanic said I shud bring it back . But I am scared of driving it back to d workshop so I don't cause more damage to d gear.

Unfortunately the damage has been done already.
Your best bet is scanning the car for transmission related codes (you'll likely get some solenoid codes) and carrying out a transmission oil flush while keeping fingers crossed.

walexy14:
I notice oil leakage on th floor every morning. Please what could be the cause? And any recommended mechanic to fix this on the mainland. The car is 2008 honda accord. Thanks

You didn't indicate if it's a 6 or 4 cylinder car, where it's leaking from, and the colour of the leak.
Oil leaks are one of the dirtiest job in car repairs and can be tricky to find and fix.

myrax7:
I have a 4 plug engine and it was observed that there is no spark on the first ignition coil.We changed the ignition coil but the fault still remained.
After several checks from different rewires, it was deduced that the brainbox is bad.
For over 3 weeks we have been going back and forth to ladipo but have not been able to get the exact BrainBox. The Brainbox been sold to us isn't compatible with the car.
I need help with directions on what to do or where I can go check to see if u can get this brain box

Try the repair route if you can't find matching brainbox locally.

fecosequence:
yes it developed when i took it to car wash

Allow them dry and keep fingers crossed hoping for the best.

fecosequence:
Can someone please help me with solution to these code p0705,p0113,p0135,p0705

What's the car brand and issues with it?
Also indicate repair works done so far or likeable cause of the issues ((if you drove through water, or washed the engine bay) especially for the transmission related codes)).

tojahh:



I did a complete overhaul of my AC system... Changed condenser and compressor and evaporator even expansion valve, system was flushed and replaced.

So the AC returned my ac system to factory settings. Since then the coil burn problem started.

Kindly take the car back to the person to go through job done.

tojahh:
Once I turn on my AC, one of my coil must burn!

Car is not overheating.

Honda Civic 07
What do I do?

Get an electrician to thoroughly check your wiring harness.
There's no connection between your AC and ignition coils.

remi4ever:


I have to press hard to brake well. Unlike other cars that you just have to apply minimum effort.

So the new master brake is fake or what?

If the brake pedal is hard, then inspect booster, and vacuum line.
If it goes all the way to the floor then check for leaks or replace with a good brake master.

remi4ever:


Because I changed it... Plus the previous one was rekitted by a brake specialist

If your pedal keeps going flat when depressed or you have to pump to have it up, then you have a leak or a faulty brake master. A bad brake booster, vacuum valve and vacuum hose will make your pedal hard.

remi4ever:
Hello my honda accord doesn't brake like other cars. I have to depress it harder.

I have changed my master cylinder. I suspect the servo is bad.

How do you know it's the servo and not the master cylinder?

teeboi0505:
Good Evening all,

Thanks for the good work being done on this thread.
I bought a new 75aH battery for my Nissan Xterra SUV 2001 3 months and half ago.
For more than a months now, I noticed whitish particles on the positive and negative terminals of the battery.
I usually clean the particles and the car will start after some 10 , 15 or even 30 minutes but the same cycle has been repeating itself over and over again.
At times the car will go off when I drive for 60- 90 minutes and i will have to clean the whitish particles before it will start again.
The check battery/low battery light also come on repeatedly.

I am tired of all this.

(1) Please What should I do?
(2) I want to service my car. Which type of engine oil should I buy?

Thanks

You most likely have a leak on the battery terminals. Fix the leak, then apply grease on the terminals and you should be good.

dicksonadams:
by dried up very fast, do you mean it evaporates due to heat from the combustion chamber or the cars rings or cylinder are worn hence the oil get pass into the cylinder

What he means is that the oil does not tolerate heat well and dries up.

Macmilla:

There's A LOT of misinformation in this write-up.
Yest the cooling system is a closed pressurized system, but the reservoir is NOT part of the pressurized system. The pressure in the system is regulated by the cover of the radiator (Yes, the radiator cover is more than just a cover). When the engine is running and therefore heating up, the water starts expanding and the pressure in the system starts rising. When the pressure gets to a set point, the release valve in the radiator cover lets the excess water push past it and INTO THE RESERVOIR.
When you turn off the engine and it starts cooling down, the coolant starts contracting. This contraction creates suction which pulls coolant back from the reservoir.

What happens when there's air in the system? Let's note that some cars can automatically expel air from the system while a lot of cars can't. As the coolant heats up, the air also expands and comes out through the radiator cover. This is that bubbling you see when you running an engine for the first time after the cooling system was breeched. It is advice able to run the engine to operating temperature with the radiator cover open to let as much air out as possible.

When there's air in the system: Air is very compressible and therefore the required pressure in the system will never be achieved. Note that one of the benefits of the high pressure in the system is that it raises the boiling point of the coolant (water component) to prevent boiling. Air also conducts heat much less than coolant, so the engine will have hot spots, which is a killer.

Running the system with a full reservoir: The reservoir is designed to let excess coolant overflow. Some will actually have overflow pipe, while others will just have overflow hole. There's NO VALVE. As the engine heats up and the coolant in the radiator expands, the reservoir should have enough space to contain the excess. If not, the excess will overflow. It is as simple as that. So filling the reservoir to full is not a big deal, it's just a waste of coolant.
Running with an empty reservoir: The reservoir, apart from being a reservoir, also has the function of being an air seal. Meaning that it prevents air from being sucked back into the radiator as the coolant cools and contracts. So running it empty means air can be sucked back into the radiator as things cool down. You do not want that to happen.

IN ALL THESE, THERE'S ABSOLUTELY NO WAY THAT FILLING THE RESERVOIR WILL CAUSE OVERHEATING.
I stand to be corrected.

You're correct.

Conner44:


Gravity won't normally pull out half the water from the engine block through the radiator return pipe (especially if there's a thermostat) And even without the engine having a thermostat, gravity can only pull out so much before the water pump would have to do the rest. The piping system in an engine block itself is intricate and gravity won't work properly on many of it's sections with U joints.

Remember op asked of a way to remove most of the water from his cooling system before refiling with coolant (which I believe is the best practice) . Another option he has is to locate the engine block coolant drain plug (which i think is overkill) . Let him try to take out all the water first. The only con here is that he will need more coolant to fill the empty engine block plus the radiator as well.

His engine isn't going to be overheating by the time he is to be introducing cold coolant into it. He just has to let it reach operating temperature when the thermostat is supposed to be open so most of the water in the engine block can exit via power of the water pump. If you look properly I advised him to keep an eye on his temperature Guage the whole period of bleeding the cooling system. It is only an overheating engine that doesn't require immediate filling with cold water or coolant. . Even if you're driving on a long journey and you stop to open your bonnet and use your hand to feel the two coolant pipes running in-between your engine and radiator, you'd find out that one is of them is hot while one will be relatively cooler to the touch. When your thermostat opens up, the cooler coolant gets sucked into the engine block from the radiator at the same time that the hot coolant is getting pumped out of the engine block and straight into the same radiator to be cooled down by the fans. This method is designed to cause the engine no harm. Its only when temperature has unfortunately gone too high and stayed there for a while before it gets dangerous to pour cold coolant inside it

Do you know that the usual 4 cylinder engine block can hold up to 4 litres of water inside its piping at cold start? I still say he does it the way i directed for best results. Even mechanics sometimes run tokumbo replacement engine blocks dry of coolant for some minutes during testing after mounting without adverse effects. Why will someone buy 5 litres of expensive coolant and dilute it with 4 litres of regular water that he is running away from (unless the coolant isn't the pre diluted type)

Your way is nice. Its for those who are not too concerned about the already contaminated water mixing with their new coolant.

The choice is his to make.

fineboynl:
yea I know bank 1 and bank 2.

The bank 1 downstream sensor doesn’t work. I have a check engine light for that. Its 2007 accord. But surprisingly that exhaust manifold happened to be the most fuel efficient. I was thinking since the computer can no longer read from it. It reduce the fuel consumption. Because that manifold was clean and clear using your finger to scrub inside will not stain it with soot.

The upstream is what determines the fuel consumption. The downstream is for emission purposes.

bemigho01:
Good Morning, Please i have two questions to ask. First is after i repair my fuel pump i realize that my TURN signal lights are not working (navigator). Also my car sometimes does not reverse, i have a 2012 Toyota Camry.

Your repair and complains are not related. What did you fix before or after replacing the fuel pump?

alaricsaltzman:

Thank you

I initially didn't want to respond to your initial request, but I'm forced to for obvious reasons.
You'll be careful with that approach and recommendations. I remember giving you that option initially but opted for you to do a drain and refill allowing gravity to pull out water from the block when you open the drain plug or hose from the bottom of the radiator for little drop of water won't do your system any harm if mixed with coolant.
That approach you're about taking if you've not done so should be handled by someone that understands the implications of pouring cold coolant in an hot engine.
All the best and cheers.

TomiSwag:


Yes the rear tyres kind of look slanted outwards slightly.

Check your suspensions 1st.

TomiSwag:
Hello House
I have a 2008 Hyundai Tucson.
On Sunday I notice a squeeking sound from the back of the car while driving.
I took it to a workshop and they said the axil and propeller are bad.
The technician said the oil in the axil is dried up so the metal is grind and chipped.
Please can anyone recommend a good place to get a second opinion.
Somewhere around Gbagada axis.
Thank you

Squeaky noise is different from a grinding noise. If it's squeaking, then you have 1 or several bad rubber bushings. But if it's grinding while driving, then your mechanic is right.
Kindly confirm if your rear tyres are slanted outward.

Alertman24:
Please l drive Acura MDX, my battery always run down in the morning, and when parked for a prolonged time even when everything is off, Rewire could not detect what's running the battery down, please what should I do?

Does the car start when you take out the battery?
If doesn't start even when you disconnect the battery, then you have a bad battery.
But it starts after disconnecting the battery, then you'll need a technician with multimeter to perform a parasite draw test on your car.

Percival9:


I'll try and get 010 for a good price sha
Get a honda specialist to inspect am well make pesin no buy lemon..
I love the luxury of accord 08 above
The classy look

Go with a technician with a good scanner and knows what to check.

KingAzubuike:

Oh I thought it wasn't normal and has to do with wheel alignment. For example if the surface is filled with granite, the car vibrates with noises.

Suspension noises and vibrations cannot be diagnosed remotely. You'll need a technician to physically inspect your suspension.
Feel free to call 07089030689 if in Lagos for further diagnosis.