₦airaland Forum

ArcToyin:
Multiply the horizontal and vertical dimensions together then divide by 1000.

Shouldn't it be divided by 1,000,000 rather than 1,000?

And then again, the shapes of the main lounge and dining aren't rectangular or square, so shouldn't be so straight forward na.

PS: Not my field, but shouldn't be any different from basic geometric calculations, I believe.

lahizak:
Goodmorning all. Please any kind Samaritan that can help me with the square meter of this plan. The square meter of the sitting room, kitchen, dinning area and entrance. I have called 2 different pop guys and dey giving me different higher measurements than my bricklayer

Rough Estimate (To the nearest whole number):

Sitting Room = (5.5 x 5.5) - (1.5 x 1.51) = 28sqm
Kitchen = 4.9 x 2.8 = 14sqm
Dinning = (3.3 x 3.81) - (1.5 x 1.51) = 10sqm
Entrance = 2.47 × 2.3 = 6sqm

NB: just an estimate...could have been even more accurate if the size of blocks used in the construction was factored in, but this wasn't given in the design.

redgem:
Okay, thank you oh... I was paying a day's charge (100 blocks a day at 15000ngn), I just remembered and decided to ask just incase of next time.

Hmmm, this is quite expensive o...150 per block laid . Is it due to inflation or your location? Did 50 per block just last year.

toluxa1:
Between doing separate burglary and then casement window and net, and doing the casement windows and net with burglary embedded, which is deemed stronger and better.
I know it's cheaper to do it embedded but will it give same result as doing it separately?

Any one of both options can be breeched with the right tools.

For me, I see it as just one layer amongst several layers of security measures, so my preference would be based more on cost and aesthetics rather than perceived 'strength'. The all-in-one package is cheaper and more appealing to me, so I'd go for that option, but that's just my personal choice anyway.

Hajivince:
We just replaced wire mesh with 8mm so that the concrete will satisfy Tension requirements since concrete is weak in tension...

Simply put, Because of the nature of nowadays work, people don't wet their filling for days to allow for enough consolidation. So in other to avoid Tensile failure when loaded, we make our oversite Reinforced. Reinforcement is placed so when the filling underneath gives way, settles or compress maybe due to limited number of wetting that can arise from human error or physical disturbance around the proposed development which create voids, our oversite remains constant... No matter how insignificant the settlement may be, it can make life uneasy for the occupant so that's y we make sure everything is catered for...

Well understood, thanks for the detailed explanation.

dbshaywhy:
Good pm professional... I want to make a purchase of tiles for my small build... Needs your utmost advise in picking...
1.What brand could serve well

2.Best size for floor(sitting room, bedroom, kitchen and bathroom)...
And other beneficial advice...
Want to make the purchase within 48 hours.
Thanks

The size of tiles you choose depends on your personal preference. There isn't any particular size that is best for floor or walls.

The finish of the tile surface, on the other hand, may determine the best place to install them. For instance, glossy or shiny tiles can be very slippery when wet, so may not be the best in areas that are prone to water spillage like bathrooms, kitchens & laundries.

As for brands, I'll leave that to the experts.

If you don't mind @Hajivince, what's the reason for the reinforcement of the oversight concrete slab? Thanks.

Bakin3:
BIO DIGESTER (MODERN SOAKAWAY)

EFFECTIVENESS*
The Effectiveness is that it does not take much space
It is odourless and environment friendly
No need of evacuation
also it does not get filled up

*The advantages*
Is stated above that no need of evacuation and does not smell
Also it does not get filled up because there are some macro bacteria that feed on the faece that decompose to water

The depth of this system is just 3 ft with difference sizes

*Disadvantages*
Do not *flush pad, pampers condoms or anything polythene* inside because it does not decompose and also reduces the lifespan of the bio-digester system

*Kitchen and bathroom water doesn't go inside the bio digester*

*MAINTENANCE*
It is easy to maintain because it take small space of your land.

*Durability*
The duration for this system is more than 20 years well maintain by following the rules stated above.

Until I see a household that has used this for at least 10 years without issues, I will remain sceptical.

What happens to all the water flushed into that small space? Does the biodigester also serve as a soakaway pit or dehydrator?

Secondly, what happens to the bacteria in the digester when one washes ones toilet with antiseptic solutions and flushes the water into the biodigester?

Hamachi:
Thank you very much a friend recommended TopShield.

Yeah, TopShield Waterproof Powder should do just fine. Just make sure your mason uses the right mix ratio as directed on the pack and the mortar thoroughly mixed before adding water to it.

And also plaster the walls adjoining the decking slab as well.

Hamachi:
Thank you for your response aside the cheapest option what other option is available

You can plaster the top surface of the decking with mortar mixed with waterproof cement or sealant for concrete. Same method is used by fish farmers to prevent water leakage from concrete ponds. To make it last even longer, you may also place ceramic tiles on top of the waterproofed plastering and then seal the gaps between the tiles with the waterproof cement.

topsy23:
It's not ordinary water pls. It is called sulfuric acid

I thought it was distilled water they usually use in topping up those types of inverter batteries...abi the tubular batteries are different from the ones topped with distilled water?

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Blessedsunny2:
Thanks D boss for patronizing, still your blessed sunny tiles dealer

@Blessedsunny2, I love the size of these tiles. Are they 120x120?

Hamachi:
someone should help me na

I think you may need to describe what the issues represented in the pictures are, and the type and stage of the building to get a solution.

KolaShangOne:
From my experience with it, it's about 1.7 times more than POP.

If POP gives you 6,000 per metre, then Plasterboard will be about 6000 x 1.7 = 10,200 per metre.

Do you understand?

Sure I do, thanks.

Procarpenter:
Is possible 100% you’ll roofing the wood completely and install the steps little for the room and parlor and later you can complete the full step tiles so it will safe more money a lot including the workmanship as well sir

So exposing some of the roofing woods to weather elements over time does not matter, going by your advice here?

KolaShangOne:
Didn't matter for some of my projects because I didn't tile all the way up, even for bathrooms.

However, you cab tile first if you intend to use plaster boards. It doesn't leave a mess like POP

Plaster boards are readymade POP boards, right? What's the cost like, compared to the usual POP ceiling? Thanks!

POP ceiling before wall tiles or vice versa, which is the preferable order? I'm currently leaning towards wall tiles before POP ceiling, reason being a better looking finish where the POP meets the wall, but I'd love to have some alternative opinions and why. Thanks!

Olumighty123:
The bolded are what has been done in the house

By "plumbing fixtures" I actually meant toilets, showers, wash hand basins, water heaters and the likes, and not piping o. Does that mean you did those before tiling?

Olumighty123:
Engineers in the house, I have a project I'm working on, house has been plastered, I want to know what the next step would be, from tiling, to screening, to fixing the toilet seats and the likes, note: I want to do it step by step, not financially buoyant, I'd like to start from bathroom wall tilling, I was thinking they may need to break those walls later when the shower and toilets seat are about to be installed, I'm just not sure, I'd like someone to put me through.

Not an "Engineer" but this would be my modus operandi for a DIY basic finish after plastering:

1. Wiring (presuming you've already secured building with external doors and window burglary)
2. Ceiling
3. Tiling
4. Screeding & painting
5. Plumbing fixtures
7. Electrical Fittings
8. Wooden door installation (if metal doors, should have been installed before plastering)
9. Kitchen cabinets & wardrobes

diordaves:
The quality of the block should be called to question. It is very unusual for termites to burrow through good quality thick concrete. Or there might have been a fault line and the termites exploited it. Abi na winch termites sent by village people? They better go bury dog for site. Some have sworn by their lives, it works against termites.

Me sef I tire o...I have never seen this kind of thing before, termites or whatever else burrowing through plastered blocks

Born2conquer:
Yes

Not my field, but I don't think that's the best practice. They should have filled the block holes with concrete or just broken pieces of blocks, instead of laterite.

Born2conquer:
That's the foundation level, we are yet to fill the whole surrounding

Ok, so the block holes must have been filled with laterite as well.

Born2conquer:
What I saw on the building yesterday, no be termite be this

Pardon my ignorance Sir, but I'm not understanding this building . Is that a plastered mud house or what?

redcliff:
chei. all these blue and red disco lights on the ceiling is someone's meat? Damn!

redcliff:
can we normalize not over designing ceilings anymore?

Structural elements can be normalized, but not aesthetics. That is a very subjective matter. One man's meat, another's poison...

rainlover:
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If you intend to edit and resell as original material, then it's best to always use a good plagiarism tool to check before publishing. The platform through which you intend to publish should determine the plagiarism score allowable.

PS: Apologies for the late reply.

Deleted

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rukyboy:
Isn't someone supposed to tile first before installing doors?

I think it depends on the type of door. Wooden doors can be installed after tiling, but steel doors are usually installed before tiling.