₦airaland Forum

lovetext:
I used stamp concrete on my own property too but my chambers were flat ,meaning they were of same level with the ground, the chambers were one you could just open and close easily, made with angle and casted,

His land is swampy, so he can get away with similar chamber design only if the chambers are above ground water level or made water tight, otherwise ground water will just get in through the chambers and fill up his septic tank, resulting in same problem he's trying to avoid.

walexyll:
Going by their conversation, offering free delivery to Warri at that price point is something to also consider.
In my world, it is a red flag....I will rather buy a little bit more expensive than risk such.

Exactly...plus he also deleted all his chats immediately his potential 'mugu' caught him at his game. Exact same modus operandi of online scammers. Nothing anybody wan tell me, genuine vendor or not, I don't care, I've just added another name to my nairaland 'black list'.

fashrola:
That is why he's different from the rest of electricians, His work sets him apart, Quality and aesthetics and he has modern tools.....

I was amazed with his wire arrangement in a DB (It was really neat).

I hope to engage him soon on my project..... Cos i have an electrical design system i need for my house, Which involves DC wiring for Emergency lightings, fire alarm systems.....

I'm telling you. Topsy's electrical installations are simply 'beautiful to behold'. I must commend him for that and hope he doesn't let what seems to be common practice amongst Nigerian artisans corrupt him.

topsy23:
Check our last installation.. We use machine on POP

I said it. Haven seen pictures of some of your installations, I knew you'd do this quite well. See how you took your time to take measurements, draw lines and then do your cutout at the intersection. Honestly, many "trained electricians" do not know how to do this or just don't bother to do what they know. The aesthetic aspect of their job is not something they consider as important, unfortunately.

DJInfluence:
Yes I know. But I still would like to know if the chamberless (having the pvc ducts pipes) makes any sense when I intend to do stamped floor everywhere.

Chamberless piping usually has some air vents and cleanout points through which maintenance is carried out when necessary. These cleanout points and air vents should stick out above the concrete floor. Every other pipe can be buried under the concrete without issues.

PVC itself is waterproof, so as long as your septic tank and joints between pipes and fittings are all water tight, you should have nothing to worry about irrespective of whether you go for chambered or chamberless.

Alternatively, instead of burying your pipes under the concrete floor, you may have them laid above ground level and just do a 'flower pot' with blocks to hide them. This way you will not need to breakthrough your concrete floor should there be any leakage within the system.

topsy23:
We have hole that. We do it ourselves and to get the right spacing.. Although some big companiss will leave the opening for main contractor because it's part of their attendance to the sub contractors

Topsy, judging from pics of your past jobs you've shared here, I have a feeling you're the kind of electrician that will take your time to make measurements and get the spacing, centralization and alignment right...but not many electricians do that.

kelvin1191:
Electricians Do Have Hole-saw That Is Attached To Drilling Machine To Give A Perfect hole Doubt Kazeem will not have it.

What about spacing, centralizing and/or alignment of the lights, if you know what I mean?

Rayd502:
How will the pop guy know the diameter to cut?except you give him a sample size of the light I asked same question on spider's thread and he said the electrician.

Yeah, like you've said, a sample spotlight can be given to the POP guy.

twinskenny:
They won’t be the one to determine how many lighting points… anyway they can do this with your electrician

I know they can't determine how many lighting points, but the building has an electrical design with all lighting points already pre-determined on paper.

bolu1986:
depends on the thickness....

I think I'd prefer my POP guy to do the cutouts. Apart from possible damages to the ceiling, electricians hardly take measurements before doing their installations, so may not centralize or align the spotlights properly.

topsy23:
Electrician

Ok thanks, but some not so careful electricians sometimes cause some damage to the ceiling while at it, and obviously can't repair the damage themselves.

bolu1986:
Still in Ilesha Osun state


Pop & wall screeding

Note real work pictures attached


07088534661

One quick question boss man. Who is best placed to cut out the circular holes for installation of ceiling spotlights? Electrician or POP guy?

topsy23:
One of our project in Akoka, getting there this morning the whole cables stolen. We have POP guys working in the building after we left the site. They denied that they did not tamper with the cables.

Is the building secure? Has the client installed doors, windows and protectors? Is there anyone (security or workers) sleeping in the building overnight? Are any of the workers (POP guys inclusive) sleeping there or they come, do their work and leave at the end the day? Who locks up at the end of the day's work? Was there any sign of breaking and entry? Who supervises the workers?

Too many questions unanswered. This kind thing can be very painful o.

Gen2men:
Please can someone help me to calculate the total meters that will cover my roof. Roofing plan attached. @ sayfacts and other gurus

Beautiful roof plan, but in my opinion has too many unnecessary gutters making the roof more complicated, more expensive and more prone to leakages. All the best Sir.

Sokykay:
[@Saydfact please can I get your contact or could anyone help out

His contact is on his signature.

DJInfluence:
thanks for your insight. The one I've now is also a single big tank and we used waterproof cement (think that's what they called is) but I'll ask around maybe there are waterproof cement of better quality than what was used for me to avoid the same thing from happening.

I was also advise to make the new one not too deep rather it should be lengthy.

The water table on a swampy land is usually at or above ground surface level, so it won't really matter whether the septic tank is shallow or not. As long as it isn't water resistant, water will still get in. Just make sure the water proof cement is mixed with the right ratio to regular cement and also mixed thoroughly. And if possible use a concrete mixer to mix your concrete and a concrete vibrator to expel all air pockets while casting. Your mortar for plastering can also be mixed with the concrete mixer so no part of the mixture is spared of waterproof cement.

You may also consider placing a DPM (Nylon) before casting the floor of the septic tank.

DJInfluence:
My property is located on a swampy area and I need advice on what to build...

A bio digester or a normal septic system?

I have an existing septic system (big one too that's use by my family alone) but I have to get someone to pump out the waste every 2 months which is not normal. I was told it was because it was not built properly but am scared of making the same mistake twice. So please people with either system on a swampy area please share your experience with me.

I'm not an expert by any means, but I don't think a biodigester will solve your problem. I believe the reason why you have to evacuate your existing septic tank so often, is because the septic tank let's ground water in and the level of ground water on a swampy land will be quite high, making the septic tank almost full at all times.

I think building a septic tank with waterproof floor and walls, and also excluding a soak away section should solve your problem. This can be achieved by adding water proof cement to your concrete mix when casting and also to your mortar mix for plastering.

sonnie10:
I was writing based on the assumption that everyone with primary 4 education knows how to measure length and width of an area.

Secondly. Within the context of this discussion. We would assume the land has existing beacons. If so, the compass on your smart phone can lead your directly to those spots without “beating about the bush” and as long as you follow the directions of a true coordinate from the survey plan.
For instance, if one coordinate says 28 degree 45 minutes and has 30 meters length on that side. Follows NE on that coordinate for 30 meters, that is where the beacon would be found.

No wahala boss, I get your drift.

sonnie10:
All you need for distance is either a thread, line yard or measure it directly using a tape. Most buyers would not have such long tapes used by professionals. Just put a little stick peg on the four corners of the actual land you are interested in buying, used line yard ( twine) to obtain your measurement, then go home and do measure it out with a simple meter rule.
Your smart phone all has a length measurement app.

Ok, I think you get my point now that you need more than just a compass to get exact coordinates. But then again, how do you locate the first/starting beacon with a compass and tape?

For the beacons, all you need to locate them is a set of good eyes. This is because they are already on the surveyed land. All surveyed land must have beacons.

That would be quite a difficult task on a large piece of bushy plot though... speaking from experience

sonnie10:
There is a standard in term of language used . The coordinates are presented in degrees and minutes with reference to a starting point of true NORTH and EAST.
The compass on smart phone are even more accurate because it goes to the seconds unit, which are considered irrelevant small unit and not even included on most survey plans.
Once you can locate the starting beacon by the lowest number, use that as your reference point.

Yeah I know that, but the compass still doesn't tell you distance from one point to another. Degree, minutes and seconds just represents measurement of direction from the reference point without specifying distance. Without distance, it is practically impossible to locate the other beacons.

Edit:
The starting point on a survey plan is even depicted by the units mN (meters North) and mE (meters East), with shows clearly that distance and direction are both needed.

sonnie10:
I don’t think that is what he meant. It seems he was talking about some estate company survey plan not being accurate. That is, they put fictitious coordinates on the paper while the piece of land is acutely having something else.
I guess the solution would be to seek a surveyor who goes with the client to the said land, and matches it with what they have on the plan. Then proceed to Alausa for verification.

However, from a layman’s perspective, I would assume one does not need much to verify accuracy of coordinates. As preliminary, Just the compass on smart phone should tell you the exact coordinates on any location in degrees and minutes NE. Then, compare those with the survey plan before going for verification.
In addition, the length and width on the boundaries should be consistent, use that to determine the square meters by yourself. Look for the beacons and match the inscriptions on all ends. Check dates of actual survey done and the date on land registration receipt from the government office ( should not be more than two months) .
If you have the time, visit the registered surveyor that did the original work at the office address to have coffee with them. Check land marks . Compare owner names, check spellings and ask for ID cards.

I don't think a compass can give exact coordinates boss. It can only tell direction, however coordinates have to do with an exact location of any point on the surface of the earth, which should require both direction and distance from a reference point.

Google map or other GPS services should be able to tell exact coordinates though, but this usually comes in terms of longitude and latitude which may not be the language used in survey plans.

sonnie10:
Do a new fence or just put modern pillars and plaster this one?

Trying to save cost . Fencing is on more than 2 acres.

Depends on your priorities really...considering functionality, aesthetics and cost. If you prioritize privacy and cost over aesthetics, then by all means just level and plaster. However, if you value aesthetics more, then I'm afraid you'd have to bring it down, well at least the front that is, and redo it to match the beauty of that house.

Good day all. Please is it possible to install a wooden door on a steel frame? Anyone here done it before or have it done for him/her?

Nero2424:
Am thinking of solar pump for borehole, does anyone know the pros and cons?

I'd rather go for a hybrid AC/DC pump if I were you, so I can use it with any available source of power at any given time.

arcike:
What will the frame of the doors be made of?

I was thinking hardwood for the entrance door frames and HDF for internal door frames, but if you have a better alternative, please I'm very much open to suggestions. Thanks.

Hycon:
Site engineer is advising not to use a flat roof because of leak. But I see so many flat roof designs in Lagos, which I like. Does it mean those roofs will all leak?
Or is it because of lack of skilled workers in town or other states?

Please advise your thoughts on this or recommend a competent roofer company with proof that has done many.

Even pitched roofs leak Sir. I think it, more or less, depends on the quality of materials used and the skill set/experience of your roofer.

Obnoxious2001:
The dotted lines are showing the square pipes.
¾ square pipe. Should be okay.
Every other thing, the furniture guy suppose think about an

Yeah, pretty much how I pictured it. You've been really helpful, thanks a lot.

Obnoxious2001:
No.
Its from my experience at technical college, I already left the field 5yrs ago


For the door frame,
You will need to drill holes through it then cut a groove along it.(It's inside the groove that the iron reinforcement would stay you can use 3/4" or there about thick ones)

Am trying to explain, but it's a long process

I will try to send a sketch

I think I understand you well enough, but the sketch will be much appreciated. Many thanks.

Obnoxious2001:
This is possible.

It's either they are attached with screws on the main wooden frame (that's for the ones not close to the wall.

The frame at the wall can be drilled with the iron passing

Oh, that's good to know, thanks a lot. By the way, is that your area of specialty...I mean, do you make wooden doors?

ollykay619:
Hello house, which one should come first. Screeding or tiling

Either way is ok. Some screed first while others tile first.

Then again, it might also depend on who is doing your screeding. If you want it done by your POP ceiling guy, you might choose to do both ceiling and wall same time before tiling. On the other hand, if your painter is going to do the screeding, then you might choose to do both screeding and painting together, after tiling.

Personally, I'd prefer my painter to screed his canvass himself before applying his paint, so it's after tiling for me.

Good day everyone. I've been considering something similar to the first door attached below for my front entrance door, but my concern is how to make those glass panel areas more secure. The door will be made with HDF boards reinforced with steel plates.

The question now is whether it's possible in Naija to embed steel protectors in the door frame in front or behind the glass panels, just like the second door below? Thanks in advance.

dannie007:
Very possible. It needs more of reinforcement for strength that's all

Thanks for the insight bro. I've always preferred all doors in my home, both internal and external, to be made of same material. You've just helped me to make a final decision.