₦airaland Forum

erico2k2:
Metal doors sir

In that case, the doors should be installed first.

redgem:
What about bathrooms....do you tile first before fixing doors?

For aluminum or metal doors, it's best to install the doors before tiling, but for wooden doors, tiling should come first.

erico2k2:
House p lz, what order should this follow, Wall Screeding, Tiling, Doors?

Depends on the type of door. If metal doors, I'd do doors - tiling - screeding, but if wooden doors, then I'd go with tiling - screeding - doors.

I know most people would rather do screeding last irrespective of the type of door, but my personal preference for wooden doors would be to do doors last.

sethtsadopp:
Bosses, please I got this quote for earthing? Is it fair enough and which of the 3 options will you advice to go for? He said I should choose one of the 3, I guess difference is in the quality of materials.


Cc topsy23 twinskenny

Not enough details to make a reasonably informed choice, I'm afraid. The difference seems to lie in the quotations for "Matt's" and "Earth rods." Guess the question then is, why the difference, what are the pros and cons of each option and which one will suit your specific circumstances or needs most? The answers to these questions should come from your electrician.

Adedward:
Tower is the best,
Follow by thick imported ,

Ok, thanks!

Adedward:
U don't mention the types of materials to be use here,
We have *thick imported
* Tower economy
*Nomal imported,
u have to be sure of the one u are using, to avoid compromising in qualities, let's me know the one u want so dat I can give u quote for windows thanks

Which one, amongst the materials you mentioned, is the best in terms of quality? Thanks.

hamtabfawaz:
Rightly Said✓ Actually it is! The only pros is that it has a finer finishing (Aesthetically).. Client preference (A client of mine, rejected Black cement Screeding for his internal Space.)

Ok, thought as much. Thanks for the insight.

hamtabfawaz:
Yes Labour & Materials inclusive.


Yes, it would reduce your cost, but you still have to buy normal black cement for external screeding, As Pop cement isn't suitable for external screeding.

Call or WhatsApp me on: 09122348437

Why don't we screed the entire house (internal and external) with 'normal black cement?' Isn't it cheaper and more durable than screeding with POP cement? What are the pros of screeding internal walls with POP cement rather than with black cement? Thanks!

Reeefe:
yes it would give u all the 2x series but u have to buy the 3x4 separately

No, it will not, kindly check again Sir. I believe you may have left out the 22pcs of 2x6 from your calculation.

Thomaths:
Thank you, he does quote the cost of cutting as 40k. I'm actually more concerned about whether the 560 pieces of 2X60 will yield these quantities: 3x4 __ 35, 2x6___ 22, 2x4___400, 2×3____320 & 2×2___350

You cannot cut out 3x4 from 2x6, so you have to buy the 35 pieces of 3x4 separately.

For the others:
400pcs of 2x6 can be cut into 400pcs of 2x4 and 400pcs of 2x2, so you'll have an extra 50pcs of 2x2 on top of the required 350.

160pcs of 2x6 can be cut into 320pcs of 2x3

400pcs + 160pcs = 560pcs
So you'll also need to buy another 22pcs of 2x6 which will not be cut.

In summary, you'll need a total of 35pcs of 3x4 and 582pcs of 2x6, from which you'll have an extra 50pcs of 2x2 after cutting.

Reeefe:
from ur calculations the 2x6 and 3x4 are same price. I don't think that is true in reality. and another thing to consider is the cost of splitting them to needed size or 2x2 , 2x3 and 2x4.

2x6 and 3x4 both have same cross-sectional area of 12sqm (2x6=12 and 3x4=12), so the price is mostly the same for both.

coldcandy:
The only reasonable point here is the last point (5) and this is my personal opinion.

You've contributed nothing here Sir. Why not share with us, your own "reasonable points" for doing it differently instead, so that the guy that asked the question can use your "reasonable points" to make an informed decision. Thanks.

redgem:
Okay Sir... Someone said I should go for biodigester but I have not seen anyone using it so that I can know which is better and how it works...

The biodigester soakaway is a much smaller entity than the regular soakaway, so the artisans claim it is cheaper and requires less space. They put certain products containing microorganisms and enzymes inside the biodigester soakaway, which are meant to breakdown faeces into gas that is then released into the atmosphere through vents.

Now the catch, which the artisans will not readily tell you upfront until after you're fully committed, is that the biodigester soakaway is only meant for your toilets. It is too small to take on waste water from baths, kitchen, washing machine or wash hand basins, and also the soap used in these places will deactivate the microorganisms and/or enzymes, so you still have to do a separate soakaway for your waste water, which may actually nullify the claim that it is "cheaper" or requires "less space".

And again, just as soap can deactivate the microorganisms, your regular toilet cleaning agents can also do the same, so you have to buy special cleaning agents meant for use with biodigester soakaways and these cleaning agents are not just readily available on your supermarket shelves.

redgem:
Hello everyone....please has anyone used biodigester soakaway here? What are the pros and cons?

I haven't, but I do not like the idea that I'd still have to do a separate soakaway for waste water and also have to source for special toilet cleaning agents that may not be readily available, if I'm to opt for a biodigester soakaway. Personally, I'd rather go for the regular, tried and tested septic tank/soakaway combination even if it's more expensive, but that's just me I guess.

CivilEngineer90:
no mind the painter he's only being lazy.

The painter isn't being lazy Engr. That's my preferred option as well and no artisan, builder or engr can convince me otherwise. I will paint first before doing fittings or cabinets anyday, anytime...in fact, I'd even install wooden doors after painting as well. People do things in their own preferred ways for different reasons. The owner of the project should have the final say after getting properly informed on pros and cons of both options.

My personal reasons for choosing to paint first are:
1. to prevent paint stains on fittings, cabinets or wooden doors, which can be quite unsightly for me,
2. to prevent areas of unpainted wall under fittings, which may become exposed in the future if I ever have to replace fittings,
3. dirt on painted wall can be remedied easily, but not so easy for paint stains on fittings and woodwork.
4. the overall finish looks a lot more tidy and professional when painting is done first in my opinion,
5. IT IS MY PERSONAL PREFERENCE

Olumighty123:
Made a mistake, it was supposed to be 18.2sqm and 12sqm, I was supposed to use addition instead used multiplication My bad

This is more like it.

Olumighty123:
Ohh, I'm so sorry, I miscalculated, just confirmed from my pop man. Hahahaha, silly me

Thought as much

Olumighty123:
Omoh, that's on a high side. A little over 1.8milla to tile just my sitting room and dinning

Only your sitting room and dinning measure up to 218 sqm?
Your house must be gigantic Sir.

Issues like this current one on here really discourage one from giving jobs to Nairalanders, because some of us simply do not have the strength to start dragging anyone online and/or across state borders...

oduncojamaica:
Pls I think roofing should come first before you go for electrical conduit . Just asking

Not necessarily Sir. Electrical piping can sometimes be done before roofing, especially if you want to avoid cracking concrete later on or if you plan on installing some sort of lights on your concrete fascia. I started my own piping just before casting lintel and my electrician preferred it that way because it made the work easier for him (no concrete cracking).

That being said, if you're going by this route then you may just put only the plastic pipes before the roofing and then add the knockout boxes, DB, and so on after roofing to avoid corrosion of metal parts from exposure to rain, especially if you're not roofing immediately.

See sample below!
If you zoom into that entrance porch in the 2nd picture, you'll notice a pipe that runs through lintel and roofing beam without any cracking whatsoever. Also note that the knockout box for the socket was not installed at the time.

back2sender:
Please professionals in the house, what could have een the cuase of the appearance and spreadof this black spots which i guess to be fungi on my POP ceiling . There is no water pipe or leakage and this stains is found in most of my POP ceilings.

What can i do to correct or treat this Anyone with solutions or who might have exerienced this and resolved it should please share

Please help out with ideas,suggestions and solutions , i really appreciate and dont take any support for granted.

CC: Gbadexy, TwinsKenny, Hajji, POP professionals in house,

I have experienced this once before, but it occurred only in the kitchen and bathrooms. Guess it's due to the high humidity in those spaces (fungi thrive in warm and humid environments). If you're yet to move into the building, it maybe because the doors and windows are always closed, which will create the right conditions for fungi to grow.

In my case, I simply repainted with a more water resistant paint and it did not occur again until I moved out of that apartment.

Improving ventilation in the home, like installing extraction fans in kitchens and bathrooms for instance and/or air conditioners in other rooms as well, if it's a private residence may also help.

rukyboy:
Which is better or cheaper between the two?

I have no idea, but if I were to guess, I'd say doing it in-situ may be cheaper since it will be done by the same artisan and at same time as the window dressing and not a different person, hence possibly requiring less in labour costs. Spyder880 is in a better position to clarify.

spyder880:
They are done insitu

Wow...and so neatly done too. They look just as good as precast.

spyder880:
Updates from our works at this site, we are now doing windows dressing, adding a hood to the windows.........

Weldone chief. Are those window hoods precast moulds or done insitu?

hamtabfawaz:
You're on point.

But there are actually wooden doors that can last more years.

(Forgive the image quality!) Below is a pic of a door that has lasted over 18 years & still counting.
Bath area ain't even screened!

Interesting...I guess it's made of "iron wood", the kind of wood used in making boats, canoes and the likes?

Olumighty123:
But why is it not suitable for bathrooms? Plus which types of doors would you suggest to be used for the bathrooms?

Frequent exposure to water can cause the wood to rot within a relatively short time, however if your bath area is screened off properly, like within a shower cubicle for instance, then it can be used.

The door may also be sprayed with some sort of plastic paint to make it more resistant to water, hence prolonging its life span.

If your bath area isn't screened, you may opt for more water resistant options like aluminum or PVC (plastic) doors.

KolaShangOne:
Its better you go with 2x6 and 3x4 beams instead of 2x4 because of weight.

Also reduce your tie beam spacing to 900mm or 1000m instead of 1200mm.

Noted, thanks a lot.

KIDfurniture:
Let him compromise or manage oh.

You don't have the slightest idea why I asked the question Sir, so why not simply avoid commenting if you have to useful contribution to make.

coldcandy:
Don't even think about it

Okay, thanks.

olukaygold:
In the process of reducing costs,We should also remember the strength of a building should also be taken into consideration.I'd have say Yes if it's flat roofing systems,but a king post of 5m(16ft)!!! Covered With stone coated sheet Pls no try am,2by4 can never carry the weight on a long run. You've the money to purchase stone coated sheet as costly as it's,don't compromise on what'd carry the load(roofing sheets).#GoldenView

Okay, thanks for the insight.

Rany4all:
Good day people! Please is it advisable to use 2 by 4 hardwood in place of 2 by 6 for kingposts and rafters? Can 2 by 4 also replace 3 by 4 for struts? And what about 2 by 2 for purlins instead of 2 by 3? Will the integrity of the roof be significantly weakened by doing this? Thanks in advance.

Addendum: Intended roof is pitched with 5m high kingposts and covered with stone coated sheets.

Hello building professionals, roofers and home owners in the house. Please can someone help me out here?

MomentMan:
Mm or ft?

I believe he was referring to the thickness of the glass rather than the height or width, so it should be 'mm' and not 'ft'.