₦airaland Forum

When I said my boys will collect the money from him, i meant that when he buys a better car, one of my boys might in the future become his mechanic and they will collect that money. It is glad to know that you are a heart reader to know which one is evil or good. If the gear is bad, how come the car can get to 100 kms with the rpm on 3000? My auto business is in safe hands and i have thousands of nairalanders whom i have not met that i have been doing business with. And they are reading this topic and wondering if emeka is on oshogbo weed.

Siena:
[color=Blue]Sooper, good to her from you.
The one aspect I find impossible to justify is the price for 5 litres of oil. N21,500 is outrageous whichever way you look at it. I've seen pints blood that cost less.
What grade and brand was that oil? Just so I know to avoid it, and leave it on the shelf in my local shop.[/color]

Good evening Siena, that quote was an error and it was rectified when he pointed it to us. We used Castrol 5w30 oil for his car

So he brought the car to me and we started analyzing the problems with the car. The transmission fluid was grey in colour, completely burnt, the gear selector on the dashboard does not show except on reverse, the car had four different spark plugs, the air intake hose was torn and an adhesive tape was used to wrap it up, the engine oil chamber was full of sludge, the air filter was clogged, the engine seat was completely unseated that if you select reverse on that Santa Fe, it will feel like it is going to explode, the car has an okada pressing horn instead of the one designed by Hyundai, the gear electronics were muddled up together and the engine and gear were not in its normal state. When I saw the car, I gave it to my technician to test drive and he said we need to change the starter switch to make the gear to identify the gears it selects. Emeka Nwokolo was in a hurry to take the car back that day and I was all day contemplating on what to do, where we will get the parts because the Santa Fe parts are not common. I called all known suppliers for NGK PFR5N spark plugs and there was a guy called Bisi in Agindingbi who told me that there is someone who will get it for me for 10000 for 4 and 15k for 6 as the car is a V6. Emeka agreed to the price and said that we should go ahead. That was the second day. He only made a deposit of N10,000 on that first day. The second day, we told him that his car will not be ready as the electrician has not even started the work. He cried out that he will lose a million naira if he does not go home with that car that night. So from the cars in my workshop, I told him to try and drive the commander and see if it will be convenient for him so that he can take it home and not lose the one million that he will make that night. I jokingly told him that I have 50k inside the n1m that he will make that night. He drove the car out, went and bought fuel and came back and told us that he can manage it. The guy that supplies us transmission parts gave us the starting switch and two other switches with ten wires each. The one in the car has been joined left to right and it was an eyesore. We paid 30,000 for those items and we changed the smelly transmission fluid using our Pureguard which is compatible with SP 111. We used 5 litres.
The electrician that worked on the car did not understand the mess that was created in the car and in trying to put them right, discovered that the fuel was pouring into the engine. The cold start switch was not even connected on the car. I now advised him to use good synthetic oil on his car or we can use Mobil HXP. He initially gave us the go ahead and we used Castrol 5 w 30 in the car which he later denied and we had to drain the oil out and went to buy Mobil for him. He wanted to see the switches that we bought and I told him that if I remove the battery and bring out the switches, he will be responsible for the result. He insisted and I unplugged the switch for him to see and he then agreed to pay for the switches. This happened after we have been calling him to come and pick up his car. Someone who was anxious to use his car failed to come and pick it until the 4th day when he came with the determination to question my bill. Although we made an error in the bill adding an extra 3500 to the oil bill, Emeka Nwokolo said he had the intention of paying 7k for Labour, he does not need the synthetic Castrol oil, and that we should pour it out, which we did and bought him Mobil with our money. In order not to be provoked, I told him that whatever he want to pay, he should give them to my boys because I will never labour for 7k. Initially he agreed to pay for the switches and was about paying with the POS for 17k. I told my Secretary to follow him to the bank and collect the 17k. On getting there, he changed his mind and said that he will pay only 5k for the Mobil oil. I told my Secretary to let him go with the money as I am no longer interested in what he is up to. He dropped my Secretary and left. In all , he paid 60,000, the spark plugs, the switches, the starting switch, the transmission fluid SP111, 5 litres, the 5 litres Castrol oil, the Mobil HXP, the Air filter and the relays and wiring, one nozzle, and the countless phone calls to traders in the market and transportation to the market. And HE, Emeka Joseph Nwokolo is claiming here on Nairaland that he was scammed. Be the Judge

From the man that was scammed.
Hello,

I need help with my Hyundai Santa Fe 2002 v6 2.7 L. I'll try to give as much detailed explanation of the problem as possible.

Being my first car, I treat it like a baby. I service it every 2 months (I change oil and oil filter). I run to Baba Saheed (my own Kazeem) anytime I hear a strange sound or the movement doesn't feel right. I must confess that beyond the regular servicing, I didn't know much about my car till 3 weeks ago when my car started acting funny.

The problem is that when I start the car cold, it moves very smoothly without problems, but If I have a reason to stop or slow down after about 30 minutes (or the car heats up), it becomes difficult to accelerate. The best way to explain this is that it feels as if I'm trying to move a stationary manual transmission with gear 3 instead of gear 1. When the car picks up speed, it becomes a beast, everything returns to normal; but problem starts again if I have cause to slow down. I sometimes perceive the smell of oil when this happens, but don't know which oil that is. Also, if I happen to drive into a car wash, and I need to climb the elevated washing platform so that they can wash the under properly, the car doesn't have enough power to climb the raised platform. I was in Abeokuta last week, and drove down a sloppy street. When it was time to come out, the car didn't have enough power to drive up the slope again (which was very embarrassing), I had to drive out of the street with reverse (the reverse has full power, if not too much power sef - it can climb anything).

I usually get home very late, so by the time I drive to Baba Saheed the next morning, my car is acting all nice and driving smoothly, so it becomes difficult for him to fully grasp what I'm trying to explain. As a novice, I've spent almost 70k in 2 weeks, and it's pretty obvious the problem hasn't even been touched. I've changed Air Flow Meter, Spark Plugs, Injector Mouth, and Coil just to name a few.

Frustrated, I took to google few days ago, and I almost hid my head in shame when I realized all the basic things I never knew and/or never paid attention to. I'm glad I did cos in few days I can say I've learnt so much. The Hyundai forums have been very helpful also, but I can say I've been able to narrow down the problem to transmission (or so I think).

Before spending another dime on the car (or taking it to Hyundai, which is what I intend doing next), I want to hear from all the car gurus in the house for suggestions based on what I've described above.

NB: My gear oil is dark brownish red in colour, and I can't describe the smell jare. I was advised in the Hyundai forum to drain the gear oil and replace with SP III, Where can I get original SP III in Lagos?
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Matic j or pureguard dexron6

Sorry to say this, the manufacturer has forgotten the bora and can't remember what they did, please be observant, how many bora cars are still on the road? They are all parked somewhere.

Chief, i have a 2013 but upgraded to 2014 with the introduction lights for sale. Pictures enclosed

What about range rover engines and cleaning tools? Is it included?

Op, just pay us only 15k instead of 50k and we go use our flatbed truck carry am comot. You will do your daddy a big favour say him good pikin use flatbed truck instead of those wakapass wooden truck carry the car to its final destination

Dw 1 or pureguard dexron vi

There are some dexron 3 that claims to be atf z1 compatible but the nigerian economy is not too bouyant for trial and errors. And many atf being sold in the market are not what they claim to be and therefore will not be able to vouch for any atf that I have not tried or used in my garage

I have heard too but you can use Pureguard Dexron vi. We are the one that market the oil.

No, Mobil atf is dexron 2 and it has its limits. Use dw 1 for your Honda cars

You are welcome. 8 litres please

Seen, that's d 123 shift. Use Mobil atf. It will work well

Is your gear the d+ shift? I know oando is scarce but let me know your gear type first

Let him drain the oil and use oando dexron3

Dexron 111, is ur ml fittef with d plus gear

We have already been forgiven. My driver was agonized for over a week lamenting over the matter. Na the owner want it done. They even accompanied them there and recorded the event. Na only the rims the owner took away.

Save the earth

Some Engine Oils Currently on the Shelves Can Harm Your Engine - Read the Lables!

There are engine oils currently on the shelves at auto parts stores, gas station convenience stores, food stores, and other retail outlets that can cause harm to your car’s engine. Yes, you heard correctly - Cause harm to your car’s engine. These are obsolete engine oils formulated for use in cars built prior to the 1930s! Know how to read the labels on the front and back of the bottles of oil you buy or you may be using product that can cause unsatisfactory performance or harm to your engine.

The service rating of passenger car and commercial automotive motor oils is classified by the American Petroleum Institute (API). The program certifies that engine oil meets certain Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) quality and performance standards. The service rating is shown in the API "Service Symbol Donut" on the product label. As shown in the illustration below, engine oils with an API SA Service Classification were formulated for use in cars built prior to 1930, and are now obsolete. Yet, there are still not hard to find in retail outlets. Read on about what you need to read on the labels.



The current API Service Classification is SN

The labels include two important pieces of information to determine if an engine oil is appropriate for use in your vehicle. The first piece of information speaks to viscosity grade. The Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) defines a numerical system for grading motor oils according to viscosity. The suffixes (0, 5, 10, 15 and 25) followed by the letter W designate the engine oil's "winter" grade.

Look to your owner's manual. It specifies the viscosity grade required for your car's engine. Today, the most common grades are 5W-30.

Watch for the "W"

Whereas the labeling on the bottle of engine oil may suggest the product is a 5W-30, note, if there is no "W" between the 5 and the 30 it may not be a 5W-30. As an example, a SAE 5-30 is not the same as an SAE 5W-30.

The next 'code" to look for is the API Service Classification. Although it might appear complicated to understand at the start, it is really a simple system to get your arms around. Think of it this way, when cars were first built, the oil they required needed an API SA Service Classification. From there, it moved to SB, SC, SD, and so on (skipping only SI and SK). The current API Service Classification is SN.

So if you buy an engine oil meeting only API SA, it's an engine oil formulated for use in vehicles built in the 1920s. And SA is not hard to find mixed in with SM on the shelves at c-stores and others. Furthermore, it's also not hard to find SF, SJ and other API Service Categories on the shelves. Also, don't let price guide you. Engine oils with a Service Classification prior to SN (including SA) are often priced close to that of API SN.

The service rating of passenger car and commercial automotive motor oils is classified by the American Petroleum Institute (API). The program certifies that an oil meets certain Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) quality and performance standards. The service rating is shown in the API "Service Symbol Donut" on the product label.

The labels include two important pieces of information to determine if an engine oil is appropriate for use in your vehicle. The first piece of information speaks to viscosity grade. The Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) defines a numerical system for grading motor oils according to viscosity. The suffixes (0, 5, 10, 15 and 25) followed by the letter W designate the engine oil's "winter" grade.

Look to your owner's manual. It specifies the viscosity grade required for your car's engine. Today, the most common grades are 5W-30 and 10W-30.



Watch for the "W"

Whereas the labeling on the bottle of engine oil may suggest the product is a 10W-30, note, if there is no "W" between the 10 and the 30 it may not be a 10W-30. As an example, a SAE 10-30 is not the same as an SAE 10W30.

The next 'code" to look for is the API Service Classification. Although it might appear complicated to understand at the start, it is really a simple system to get your arms around. Think of it this way, when cars were first built, the oil they required needed an API SA Service Classification. From there, it moved to SB, SC, SD, and so on (skipping only SI). The current API Service Classification is SM.

So if you are buying an SA oil, it's an engine oil formulated for use in vehicles built in the 1920s. And SA is not hard to find mixed in with SN on the shelves at c-stores and others. Furthermore, it's also not hard to find other obsolete API Service Categories on the shelves. So read the labels on the oils you buy, ask questions when you have your oil changed and read your car owner's manual.

Always consult your vehicle owner's manual to determine what motor oil you should use, and READ THE LABELS ON THE OIL YOU BUY.



American Petroleum Institute
Gasoline Engine Oil Service Classifications
Category Status Service
SN Current Introduced in October 2010 for 2011 and older vehicles, designed to provide improved high temperature deposit protection for pistons, more stringent sludge control, and seal compatibility. API SN with Resource
Conserving matches ILSAC GF-5 by combining API SN performance with improved fuel economy, turbocharger protection, emission control system compatibility, and protection of engines operating on ethanol-containing
fuels up to E85.
SM Current For 2010 and older automotive engines.
SL Current For 2004 and older automotive engines.
SJ Current For 2001 and older automotive engines.
SH Obsolete
SG Obsolete
SF Obsolete
SE Obsolete CAUTION - Not suitable for use in gasoline-powered automobile engines built after 1979.
SD Obsolete CAUTION - Not suitable for use in gasoline-powered automobile engines built after 1971. Use in more modern engines may cause unsatisfactory performance or equipment harm.
SC Obsolete CAUTION - Not suitable for use in gasoline-powered automobile engines built after 1967. Use in more modern engines may cause unsatisfactory performance or equipment harm.
SB Obsolete CAUTION - Not suitable for use in gasoline-powered automobile engines built after 1951. Use in more modern engines may cause unsatisfactory performance or equipment harm.
SA Obsolete CAUTION - Not suitable for use in gasoline-powered automobile engines built after 1930. Use in more modern engines may cause unsatisfactory performance or equipment harm.

Chief, Don't go there..right hand conversion?

I have fixed the vogue and an x6 and currently on a tdv6. The def is not available in the country, so you will have to Import it. You cannot drive the diesel if there is no def in the range

The range rover dieseli s equipped with def, . You can read more about it on www.bluedef.com

Good morning Chief, I like your introduction light swagger. The diesel engine filter particles can be fixed and also prevented from being blocked. We are acquiring some tools that will make diesel engines work fine in the country but until then, I cannot say oui to the diesel. The engine parts are not common and repairs might take months to effect. I am yet to observe if the range diesel Is equipped with diesel exhaust fluid which if equipped is not available in the country because even Coscharis does not have it. The diesel exhaust fluid is designed to be added into a special tank by the fuel tank to eliminate many emission related faults. I will let you know later about def which will be a factor to your choice of a diesel range rover. I know that Ford is equipped with def and you can order the fluid and top it up anytime it is low. That'll eliminate all the blocked filter, dirty egr and faulty high pressure pump.

And for the Lagos to Abuja trip, it will be one pulsating experience that you will always cherish, from the massage to the quiet comfort and the powerful engine. Autobiography can be bought as 3.0 supercharged too, so be on the lookout if you want a smaller engine.

chiefbidemi:
@ sooperrescue your assistance is needed on this thread.
Hello, I am Chief Bidemi. I have a short story which precedes my request. I have 5 children. The last of them just graduated and completed his NYSC year with the last batch that passed out. All the others have graduated and are getting on fine. Since I have little recurring expenses to handle now, I want to give myself a threat. I have driven many cars but have not owned an SUV. My present car is a 2010 Toyota Camry and I intend to give it out to my 3rd child who just gave birth. I already told her to come take the car by month end.
Now, I want to give myself a threat. At least I have tried. You get to live once. I have admired the new model Range Rover Vogue which took the new look in 2013. I intend to buy this car this month and give the 2010 camry to my daughter. I know the price for a tokunbo of it. That price is fine with me. I need solid advice on what you think about the Range Rover from year 2013 till date. I don't want to buy a car I won't enjoy. Here are specific questions.
What do you think about the diesel model?
What do you think about the petrol model?
Which model is recommended? The diesel or petrol? Why?
Are the parts available in Nigeria now?
Which year can I easily get parts for?
What does it cost for simple parts like bumper, head lights, side mirrors, tail lights? You know other Nigerian drivers can hit you anytime, hahaha.
I travel a lot. Lagos to Abuja by road. Can this car do Lagos to Abuja weekly?
Is any model year problematic? Which year?
Thanks and thanks

Wao, from Toyota to Range Rover. You truly deserve this treat and it will be a wonderful threat if you dont buy the diesel because there are many things involved especially the quality of the diesel, what to do when the diesel particle filter refused to regenerate and is blocked and the engine falls into limp mode. The items you are wary of should be covered by your insurer and it should not even arise because there is no way an armed robber under the influence of indian hemp will go and rob in an army barracks, the eye go clear. In likemanner, danfo and keke and women drivers will maintain their distance, the way motorists maintain their distance behind CBN convey. That said, it is a big treat, but let it be for only you cos a driver that learnt how to drive on a vw bettle will not understand what is dynamic response, or looking for the gear lever. The parts are expensive but not near mercedes e and s class whose air suspension cost over 300k each. The major common fault is the lower arm and it might never occur if your house is in a refined neighbourhood, and salt water is not their friend , so let the csr be washed thoroughly especially the underneath if you live on the Island. The 2014 has some features that the 2013 does not have like the lights on the headlamps does not stay on unlike the 2014 and we changed one recently for over 3000usd. The electronic side steps comes standard in 2014 but it is an option in 2013. If these does not matter to you, get the 2013 model, you will save some millions. The tail lights for the range is 240k, just for you to have an idea and the parts are within 30 minutes reach. Welcome to Range Rover Sport Club

It is not a venture, it is an initiative, a green earth project. If i get a call from Epe, i will send a truck there and pick up a car without tyres and pay the owner for making me come down there? It is a profitable initiative as the Ozone layer, the excessive heat will be reduced. Kayjasper, I already have over 50 calls on our toll free from various parts of Lagos. Call 07056990111 toll free only for glo subs and give us description to your scrap vehicles. Lets save our environment

Thanks Siena, at least they can understand better. In 1999, I sent my Ford Sierra to the demolition yard in Switzerland and paid 150 swiss francs for it to be demolished. The guy refused to collect 100 frs and I was preparing to return home and did not want to take the car home. A car that can move to the demolition yard can be sold at an agreed price but not the kind of cars abandoned in Lagos, no engine, tires expired 19 years ago and some folks want to be paid to help them eliminate hazardous waste from their houses.

I mentioned gearbox and sluggish engine due to the Acura requiring premium unleaded fuel and that he should not buy even though it is a sweet car which in the end turns to bitter kola. If you are proud of your Acura, take a photo and paste it here. We know a well maintained car by its look.