Rubbiish:

6inch - 55 to 65
5inch - 60 to 70

Hand moulding block: maintain 45 for 6inch and 60 for 5"

Takoro13:
Please house what could be the cause of this crack at each 4*4 windows of simple bungalow. The crack line from top four course down the foundation and did not reach foundation. No crack walls. Only on windows

See pxc

Nobody saw this?

Thanks all

Please house what could be the cause of this crack at each 4*4 windows of simple bungalow. The crack line from top four course down the foundation and did not reach foundation. No crack walls. Only on windows

See pxc

Segzy, do you mean that same guy you reported? It won't be funny if you people couldn't do anything but too surprise to see him succeed in doing so. I won't be regret to welcome him to Nigeria correctional centre ILESA soon. Alagbo is not the best place.

To

From

Block:
9"- 1100blocks
6"- 1300blocks
30 bags of cement for setting
20 bags of cement for lintel and pillars
9"-1000 for foundation
25 bags of cements for foundation
Four bedroom bungalow

Alhamdulillah

diordaves:


Try post pictures but if the cracks are occuring by the windows as you said, it may be your lintel work. Your lintel might be too short that is if you've done the lintel.

Post the pictures for a better diagnosis.

I have been unable to upload pxc since long ago hence I won't be able to do that. therefore, the crack has nothing doing with lintel has the building is chained round and the crack occur where the window bottom down to foundation blocks.

thanks

Rubbiish:

When u say the cracks did not get to the foundation blocks, does it end at the German floor? See if u can post pics for better clarification

there is no German floor sr. the crack stop at the first course of superstructure up to the fourth course. the happen on every windows.

sorry I don't know why I have not been able to post pxc since. is painful sr.

good day brothers and sisters, please I need professional talks on this funny thing.

getting to my house ( uncompleted) today for normal visit, I saw cracks at every windows right from top of four coarse to bottom where the foundation start and no crack notice on the foundation blocks at all. all eleven windows has crack alike and non of the cracks reach foundation blocks.
the house has not but been covered (roof) just block work.

what could be the culprit and how do I deal with it.

note: 1-the block was moulded manually. 35 per bag
2- no crack on the all other parts that has no windows. only the 4 by 4ft windows span are affected.

help!!!!!!
still waiting for response

rotecch77:



Very correct.
I don’t know why people will say hand made block will be stronger than machine made sand Crete block, when you used same ratio for both (same quantity of sand, cement )to produce same quantities of block

no body ever conclude on any individual opinion about this and no one would say hand moulding block will have same capability as that of machine made one. the point is you don't have control on the number of blocks per bag and other conditions in industry/machine making blocks hence I support you make your blocks yourself, if only if you have time to supervise and have pro knowledge about it.

peace

segzy14:



The compressive strength of the vibrated block is more than the hand mould.

bros, i must say to the world that the hand moulding blocks are far strong to so call vibrated block at considerate number.
what constitute a good and strong blocks are: soil type, handler/moulder, water ratio and season, quantity per bag, cement status and so on. the first set was not good as the subsequence set set till end.

yinkaoke:
Good day all great people.
Please house help me verify this quotes from my carpenter for roof work seems high in my view:
2x4 wood 150 pieces @N500each 75000
2x3 140 pieces @ N400each 56000
2x2 logging below 240pieces N300 72000
White slate solo 210pieces @1450each 304500
Rigid scalp thick one 6poeces 2500 each 15000
Nails 4n3 inches 1bag each 16000
Facing board 18pieces @2200 39600
Pan nail slate nail 4packets @1500 6600
Binding belt 4800



Please professionals,professional carpenter's building engineers, suppliers n experience person please help me review this if it fine.
I am building a small 4bedrooms on a half plot.
Thanks as l appreciate ur kind assistance in this regard.

price depends on the area and state. your level of market price pressure can also help.

yinkaoke:
Good day all great people.
Please house help me verify this quotes from my carpenter for roof work seems high in my view:
2x4 wood 150 pieces @N500each 75000
2x3 140 pieces @ N400each 56000
2x2 logging below 240pieces N300 72000
White slate solo 210pieces @1450each 304500
Rigid scalp thick one 6poeces 2500 each 15000
Nails 4n3 inches 1bag each 16000
Facing board 18pieces @2200 39600
Pan nail slate nail 4packets @1500 6600
Binding belt 4800



Please professionals,professional carpenter's building engineers, suppliers n experience person please help me review this if it fine.
I am building a small 4bedrooms on a half plot.
Thanks as l appreciate ur kind assistance in this regard.

let me use mine for example and corrections

2*3(180)@350
2*4(140)@500/450
2*6(65)@700
3*4(25)@700
1*10(22)@1400/1200
2*2(240)@250
4" (1bg)@6500
5" (1/2)@3250
3" (10kg)@200
2" (2kg)@200
ojagba(6bdle)@1200
ironsheet nail(6pk)@1600
rubber pack(3yards)@1200
ironsheet(15-16bdles)@18000-9500

hope people shld help us criticise these two quotations.

Rubbiish:

How many days was d wood removed after casting?

third day sr.

the form work was not rightly erected by the carpenter hence we removed it and pull it in before nail back on the wall. can this cause this crack problem. maybe it trying to move back to initial position after concrete cast and formwork removed?

now what can I do to prevent further separation

this came up around arch days after removing the formwork. please what could be the cause and what remedy do I give to the crack



pixc problem: I have been trying to upload pxc on Nairaland since but abortive. please can someone help me out.

thaqib:
So this bungalow has been basically completed but the drainage wasn't taken to consideration during the foundation stage. It drains back to someone site( not yet developed though). It was a sloppy land backwards really. What can we do now to drain forwards to the gutter? If we fill the rear, it Will encroach on the entrance. Urgent advice needed sir

where is your location? use underground pipe of big size(diameter) with drain surface along the line. it will be bury like water pipe, channel it to the nearest public drainage. even others can link up if properly done.

yinkaoke:
Good day House.

Please I am planning to continue my building. the last I did was the lintel, now am contemplating filling or doing the roof, please what is the best for me? filling or roofing?

if filling, any special ways to reduce cost, its a very simple and small 4 bedroom building with square shape. I learnt I should dig septic tank and use the sand to fill first.

if its roofing, any special ways to manage cost?
Thanks as I await your professional responses.

God shall provide for us all. is not too late to dig septic tank and shockaway. use the laterite for filling. this really helped me including sand dug from well. all were used for filling (the remaining is there to level the compnd after fence).

am still looking forward to how to reduce cost on roofing. i was introduced to someone that would help in getting wood from bush. his price will definitely less to shaw mail price. and the higher the king post the higher the corresponding cost.

my opinion

bixton:


Try reducing the size(MB) of what you intend to upload.

I don reduce pxc reach 180kb yet no display. there must be something wrong somewhere. maybe the border has closed here also?

hi

I need to rest for sometime now.

please help me out. I have been trying to upload pxc on Nairaland both on mine and this general but now through. please could have be the problem.

thanks

bixton:


When you say "sharp" are you referring to the "smooth" type..........
I have no business using smooth type in my jobs ooooo. Don't think I've seen smooth Y10 in my environment, except Y8 and the square type.

sorry for my illiterate acts, I wanted to type shape instead. I never mean smoothness.

bixton:


Standard is Y12.
You remind me of one of my clients who asked me to do same.
This is my response to him and same to you.
I will used Y12(rectangular) on the external.
Y10 for internal(triangular) but at a lesser stirrups spacing.
And will use Y10 every where in the building but stirrups spacing with be 150mm c/c if triangular.

If you intend putting concrete fascia, please kindly use Y12(rectangular) on the outside.

thanks sr,
dealing with the second response sr "
And will use Y10 every where in the building but stirrups spacing with be 150mm c/c if triangular". so I can use triangular shape for the outer walls (9" blocks) with Y10 at 150mm c/c? if this is advisable, I going for this and I must add that no parapet sr.

more advise is welcome

thanks

elengine:
Professionals in the house. Please I need your advice urgently. I have just plastered a duplex and I did a decking or slab for my water tank on top of the roof. I just realized during the heavy rain that the slab or decking where we have water tank on it is leaking. I see water finding their way from the water slab to the wall inside. Although my plumber has assured that he will fix everything but I am considering doing a scaffolding and put my tank on it. So I want to know if it is possible to fix the slab as claimed by plumber I should just go ahead and do the scaffolding. I was told that slab will always leak even if it is not now, it will leak later

my suggestion is that you shld take water away from your block walls though someone has addressed something like this before but I strongly believe water is most stubborn substance it will definitely find way to unnecessary places. get a separate water stand, sr. I am a novice ooo

good day house, is it advisable to use 10mm iron rods for lintel work of inner (partition) walls of 6" blocks in bungalow and how save is it on outer walls of 9" blocks?

my bricklayer suggests we use 3 parallel rods (triangle sharp) instead of usual/normal four (rectangular sharp) on lintel and that we can use 10mm for lintels without any cause for alarms. though he never want to compromise the standard of iron bars used for pillars which were 12mm and rectangular sharp.

thanks

where we are

day 1

pxc

we were forced to start building amidst heavy rain that causes us not to continue moulding of 6" blks. we decide to mount outside wall making out the partitions accordingly. Bellow are the development pxc as at now. works continue tomorrow if rain seized.

adanny01:


If he had electric fence, I bet you, no one will jump that fence.

sorry bros, Nigeria thieves done carry the whole transformer that suppose give power to electric fence. sorry oooo

rocktowerbuilde:
Prayers and hope

day trusted security. you can get that from certified security company