₦airaland Forum

Kjnwancaro:
After driving from Akure today to Akungba, just before I got home the D transmission started blinking and wasn't selecting as usual. This could be it?

Guage transmission oil and scan.
Transmission oil flows through the lower part of radiator to be cooked down, that could be where there's a leak.

Kjnwancaro:
Here, but I did not take a picture when it first happened so this is like a residue. This thing was thicker. I thought the amount I found in the reservoir was huge but when the rad was flushed I was shocked. Engine and gear oil intact.

Oil getting into radiator occurs only when there's burnt head gasket.

Check fuel supply system: Fuel line, injectors, fuel pump.
Is check engine light on? If yes, scan.

Pictures of the substance in the coolant reservoir and radiator before and after driving today would give more insight sir.

ireneblush:
Hello friends, please what type of Toyota automobile can one buy with 3.2 million at this point in time?

Fuel efficient car will be one having a 2.2l engine or smaller therefore Minivan and suv should be out of the question. As well as v6 engine cars.
The remaining questions would be:
What year of production do you want?
What body type? Coupé or saloon

Greyowl:
let me have Ur contact @timifakay

08077631013

Greyowl:
Thank you guys for the advise but as at this morning I notice the water in the coolant has gone down and I top it up.I drove it out and here is the temperature gauge. Pls it's this temperature safe or not and how can I reduce it thanks

If the car had been left running for a considerable length of time, say 30 minutes the the temperature level is good. Check the place you saw leaks again to see if it still leaked today.
Check the radiator reservoir as well, it shouldn't be full, it has maximum point which coolant shouldn't exceed when at room temperature.
About the fans. One fan is cooling fan for engine while the other is condenser fan. Therefore both fans will work only when the AC is on and one fan will work when engine temperature rises.
If you are in Lagos contact me and I'll help you check it out free of charge tomorrow.

ebuks4ever:
Can i switch from Mineral to Synthetic oil?

It depends on how long you have been a "member of bad gang" (using mineral oil). If you have used mineral oil for over a year it's very likely sludge has built within your engine and returning to synthetic will clear out the which will make the engine smokey, and surfaces previously occupied by sludge will allow more flow which tends to cause leak as the mating parts would have adjusted to the sludge. So just remain on the mineral oil and ensure regular maintenance interval.

What was the position of your temperature guage needle?
Coolant temperature goes as high as 95°c while in operation.
Your concern should be how the coolant got out of the cooling system...
If through radiator cap ensure its properly closed before the next time car is driven.
If leak: trace the leak source and replace faulty member.

Formidable1:
Thank you sir, for your reply.

I've not gone for a scan yet.
But my average speed is 70km/h; Top speed 100km/h.
While driving in the city, I feel it consumes more.
By the way, I notice a sharp drop in fuel especially when I turn off and on the car more frequently. Is that normal?

City driving consumes more fuel than highway because of more frequent braking...
Under normal circumstances, the time it will be worth it to leave car running is if it won't take more than 2 minutes or there about to start engine again.

Exceptionalstef:
tnks Timi.
wht i actually want is ds.
ds s d first car i want to buy bt am little bit confused. i base in phc n d distance i cover per day is very very little(2k fuel cn take me for more dan a week).
i dnt need a new car bt direct tokunbo wit sound engine n body.
i like toyota products.
tnks

2k fuel is 13.79 liters.
But I really doubt you will get a good Tokunbo suv for that price, hardly will you even get salon car for that amount visit olx, or cheki to see for yourself.

bigass:
it only does it mainly in the morning after its been sitting for awhile. but after a while it stops. i use 5W-20 oil

What's RPM when making this noise?
If check engine light or MIL is on contact me to get it scanned.

Formidable1:
I own a Mazda Premacy 2001 model. But I feel it consumes a lot of fuel. I usually shuttle to Onitsha from Awka sometimes. I'd say that on average my car consumes about 10-11 litres from Awka to Onitsha and back to Awka again. Or in other words, it costs me 2k worth of fuel to make such journeys. So does it have good fuel economy or not?

What are the criteria for judging whether a car has a good or bad fuel economy? What is the appropriate litre/kilometre ratio for such assessment?
Thanks.

Have you gone for a scan and what was the result if yes?
What's your drive pattern, average speed, top speed and the likes, the more you accelerate and the brake sharply the more fuel you will consume...

Exceptionalstef:
I have 1.2 million naira and will love to buy a new car(a jeep to b specific), pls which brand is best for me to purchase. (N.B. it's my first car and I will need one that has second hand value). Tnx

Why do you want an SUV?
What is the road pattern of your most plied route?
What is the average distance you will cover daily and how much do you wanna spend on fuelling daily?
By new, do you mean brand new, tokunbo new or just new to you...

rebella:
Thanks,location is Lagos

My phone number is on my signature, contact me if your mechanic can't diagnose what the issue is correctly.

rebella:
Thanks, trying to get second opinions cos I getting conflicting views on how to handle it. Mech 1 says inspect IMRC, mech 2 is saying brainbox. So i'm confused

ECU/ brain box is last resort, start from simplest option and end with brain box.
What's your location?

rebella:
My Honda is giving an error code of P1077, please how do I sort this out ?

Faulty Intake Manifold Runner Control (IMRC)
Valve IMRC Valve harness is open or shorted
IMRC Valve circuit poor electrical connection
Read more: https://www.autocodes.com/p1077_honda.html
Get the intake manifold of your car inspected to ensure all hoses and harnesses are properly connected. A disconnection or improper connection can happen if any activity involving the intake manifold was carried out recently.

GuageLTD:
commercial sir
i dnt au much dey cost dts y i dnt av a budget yet
bt lets say 50-70k
dnt kno if dt'll b enuff

Launch CRP123 goes for $160 on AliExpress, if you ship through someone who will charge you for shipping and the item will arrive to Nigeria in 24hpurs it will cost $8 and #400 customs clearing per kilo... Can't give you an exact naira equivalent but I spent almost #90k at #475 to $1.

honsule:
U are really funny dude. Was scanning my car the main issue?I told u the car was vibrating then. That was the main issue. I told u I have a friend that scan vehicle too. U expected me to drive all the way to Kubwa again to fix my car, when sb else introduced me to a good and better mechanic inside town? Come on. Nobody is talking about banning here. U suggested lots of stuffs that were wrong with the car then, and u weren't even sure of urself. U say, I need to change this, change this and change that, that maybe the vibration will stopped. And I left, u call that karma? So, u wanted me to start spending money on what u urself is not sure will solve the problem then. Chai Some people self, and u are still carrying that at heart till today. Oya send me your account number, if 5k will solve your problem.

Probably your car had too many problems he wanted to address the more noticeable ones first, then later move to the other ones after.
About one end being left open, one end of your engine is intake, while the other is exhaust and it is totally wrong to stuff the exhaust instead of installing a catalytic converter.

I'll advise you run a scan and remove the 'indomie like stuff'.
Was the stuff put close to the rear of the exhaust or close to the engine bay?

Emblj:
Catalytic converter has the job of converting toxic fumes to less toxic. it is a not a barrier to exhaust flow neither does removing it improve engine performance.
In fact some of the effects /symptoms of a bad catalytic converter are poor engine performance, vibration and possible activation of check engine light.
Pls do not remove catalytic converter , d same way you have always campaign against thermostat removal.
This is a good analogy against your other arguement, removing kidney (catalyyic converter) cannot make the human body (engine) function optimally.

The exhaust gas is already out of the engine, and having a catalyst is for safe disposal. Therefore, Catalyst is like a water closet/ sewage or septic tank, without catalyst is like "throwing shotput".

Folajay22:
So I just found out that my ac can be started by pushing the ac button. When the car is off. Without the key in the ignition. Lol..please, what have they done to the car ac set up oh??

It's called Kazeemisation.

olaboy1:
To break it down clearly.
1. ECM check is for voltage
2. Oxygen sensor check is for resistance, continuity, short and voltage (The voltage test is well done when the sensor is heated to 600-1200 degrees Fahrenheit and best tool for this is an OBD2 scanner as that would also show us the frequency movement we should expect in a FSM specified voltage range)
3. Wire harness check is for resistance, continuity, short and voltage. (The voltage test will be when the wire harness is connected to the ECM and ignition switch ON and a DMM comes in handy to do just that job)
4. E.F.I relay is to check continuity between its relay block and the heater terminal of the oxygen sensor

Can you direct me to the fuses/relays positions in the fuse box controlling all the 4 oxygen sensors voltage circuit in the ECM. If I am correct each sensor has it's own connector pins on the ECM and of course should have dedicated fuse/relay e.g ECM E10 and E9 connectors for the downstream sensors giving DTC's P0161/P0141.

I want to start from fuses and relays because that's where I first look as a novice anytime I have a problem with my car.

My FSM is asking me to check for resistance only in the oxygen sensor. Please how do I check for continuity and short, I don't need to check for voltage anyway if I don't have continuity or if I have a short, I will just go ahead and change the sensor.

The PDF file m_05_0057 for the downstream sensors (P0161/P0141) is very clear, but the PDF file m_05_0098 for the upstream sensors(P1135/P1155) did not explain the rapair procedure like it did for the former. Where do I look to get same repair info contained in m_05_0057.

I appreciate your time and effort.

Your continuity test for the O2 sensors was wrong.
You ought to connect the multimeter probes to the positive and negative pins on a sensor not to one pin on a sensor and ground of the car; it's impossible to have continuity between the sensor and car when sensor is disconnected. I hope this helps.

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Psoul and ewizard1 you people spoke my mind.
People want her struggling to pay rent next year when she can easily and cheaply move the container if the current location is not favorably. Let me break it down
If she rents a shop it will cost her 100k minimum for the first year (rent, agent fee, agreement, caution...) she probably has this free or for a ridiculous amount.
If location is bad, next year she will need another 100k for a rented space but for her container money to move and another cheap rent.
If location is good another 60k for next year if she rented shop and the cheap cost of land for the current place.
She really did well IMO
To the one who could only see dark shop, I say
Life is hard for the partially blind.

I know atleast 3 people assaulted in this report, please read and comment on the obvious lies of the LASTMA PRO.
http://punchng.com/lastma-officials-lagos-residents-in-free-for-all/
I wish they could release a video of theirs showing the people with knives and bottles as the PRO claims. This lie is just terrible.
Watch the video of the assault here https://youtu.be/a_BRfNEJpBs
I posted this in car talk this morning but it was deleted.

I'm not sure what it covers but I presume it won't cover the labour charge of Coscharis on a 2017 car body work(if it's that one of ₦5,000).
By the way, what car do you drive?

olayiwolar1:
I no just understand this 12v 200AH battery again. Nothing seems to be wrong with the lifespan anyway, and it still last (when fully charged) for about 14hrs. Carrying just 14 Laptops and charge mobile phones, the likes of Blackberry's, iphone and desktop chargers at times.

What now amaze me now is, the battery, it takes longer to fully charge and doing this charging period, it becomes very hot and now, it seems the battery has start to get swollen, at times I will have to discharge and allow it cool before continuing charging it and even doing usage time, same problem persist, the hotnesss.

This battery was bought September 2016 making just 5 months old. All connections leading to and out of the battery are accurate. I just wish I could snap the hotness and the swollen side of the battery... Please what could be the cause..?

Laptop charger power rating ranges from 50w to 90w, let's assume 50w each
for your laptops
50w*4 laptops= 200w
but the power consumption reduces when fully charged.
All being charged at once for an hour is 200w*1h
= 200wh
The battery energy capacity is 200ah*12v= 2400wh
This means the battery can charge all laptops at once for 2400wh/200w = 12h.
With the above 14 hours straight use, you are depleting your battery to 0% during each cycle which guarantees short lifespan as it leads to sulphation, which is the reason your cells became thick and started expanding your battery.
You shouldn't be running on the battery for more than 6hours (50%) before recharging, that way your battery won't be stressed...