₦airaland Forum

kuntash:
thanks alot Trac.

scouting would commence when the pepper is available. thanks once again.

My bad! What I told you was the S Class.

I don't know much about the lower displaced m-112 but I do know that the 3.2 do have balanceshaft issues. The 104's stopped in early '97.

kuntash:
thanks alot Trac.

scouting would commence when the pepper is available. thanks once again.

kuntash:
^^^^ bros , u sound still too technical for me, all these one u just carry me inside the engine to explain things to me.

anyway, which one/year do you think would be better ? , I somewhat prefer smthn not too big , hence the c-classes ,

Basically, all I said is it is a good engine but it has one serious flaw and that is the head gasket. Oil will leak but it will not affect driveability because there is no loss in compression due to the way the engine was designed. The head gasket has been revised a few times. So, look out for this at purchase. The leak is a minor leak but will get serious after a few years if not fixed.

You are looking towards a 99, so you will not have the wiring harness problem. It is a very expensive repair and some dealerships would replace it at no charge to you. But the year in question wasn't affected.

Another trouble point that I addressed was the transmission (if you would get the auitomatic). They'll still require rebuild (no matter what) but it's good to know one that is failing and the other that isn't. The way to know is by shifting to the reverse gear. If there is a delay like two seconds or more and in some cases jerking before you begin moving backwards, the transmission is going bad. You either deduct money from purchase or you find another buy.

The only major issue is the head gasket on those motors. Besides that and some other small issues, it is a flawless engine. Other repairs are normal wear and tear.

jobas:
Hi Trac,

Thanks for your prompt response. But I think all S350s are V6. Are you saying that I should not go for it

The S Class has a different production interval and I am very familiar with the E Classes.  ,  but the "lowest common denominator" is the engines that cuts across all MB model lineups.  The engine you are referring to is the m-272.

To the main point ,

Besides being flawed by inherent design, MB still cut corners in materials and manufacturing processes.  A balanceshaft with special engine mounts were used to tame its inherent flaws for the v6's.  The problem with this engine is the failure of the balanceshaft (this is at low mileage).  With taxes, you are looking into the thousand range in repairs regardless of Classes.  The older m-112 had a problem of some nature but would rip out of the engine (oil pan).  The balanceshaft could barely balance the engine.  Ever question why they are cheap and nobody wants them at such low mileages?  Why?  The design was never meant to be in the first place and essential steps and procedures to prevent against such was not taken serious.  There are 90 degrees 6's that have been used in racing.

This is just one of the many other things.  Dealing with ABC failure, the airmatic suspension failure and a host of other issues leaves rooms for lots to be desired.  It's not a problem if you can do your own repairs but the balanceshaft matter is totally unacceptable.  The build quality on the S Class is superb compared to the rest.

kuntash:
Hi Trac, whats your take on the straight 6 cylinder C class? I still like this model of cars cos maintenance is kinda cheap.

do you think the newer models are like these "almost free maintenance" range of 1994-1999 ?

I am interested in going for 1999 C280, pls whats your take?

The m104 2.8 you are referring to is a stroked m104 3.2 (or maybe the other way round). The same engine but different stroke. Two archilles! Head gasket and wiring harness or loom (depends on the year). The engine is very smooth and bullet proof. Unlike other vehicles, leaks from the head gasket does not affect compression. However, bits of oil will float to the top of your coolant resevoir. The failure of the head gasket is due to the uneven coefficient of expansion between the two different alloys (upper and lower). The bolts also are stretch-bolts, meaning in some cases, you might have to re-torque the bolts. Per head gasket, I believe MB stopped using the biodegradeable wiring harness. This is the only major problem with this engine. Every other thing is either routine, wear issues or mild to moderate. The engines are the same but the Classes are not. I am not too familiar with the C Classes.

A note of caution - things could be expensive if maintenance was deferred. Do not gamble on this except you are willing to step up to the cost. Look around for leaks and suspension components. You can test a failing transmission from the reverse and how much the delay is. If it delays and then jerks into reverse, there is an issue. This can go for a few years. This tells there is a wear on the band and with time, it will eventually break the B2 piston leaving you with only forward gears. No other method that I know of.

Remember, if you get a non-tropicalised MB, retard the timing to use with the fuel available. It is explicitly clear in the owner's manual.

Siena:
^^^ The B5 S4 ECU can be installed in the C5 A6 2,7T chassis. The only differences are software related. Euro S4 without SAI still have the channels in the ECU, which can be switched on / enabled via VAG-COM or similar. The SAI channel in the A6 2,7T can also be disabled, so it doesn't throw a CEL. The same goes for using an ECU meant for manual and Tip applications.

I'm not sure which software you're using to communicate via OBD-II port, but there are several others at dealer level that can enable and disable the various channels / drivers.

A generic reader is what is being used to interface communication (sometimes, the cellphone). This is clear to me because I use the official Merc diagnotic and it's a lot intimate than what a generic reader would feed.

Your points are noted. It's time to buy more tools.

Many thanks!!!

jobas:
Hello House,

Please need some advice. What do you guys think of the 2006 Mercedes-Benz S350 Is it a good buy what's the average I can get one for?

I eagerly await your response.

Thnx in advance.

I'll give a simple word of advice.  It doesn't matter the variant or the class, avoid the v6.  Ignore this and you'll find out why.  Also avoid the panoramic roof.  If you find an international version (non western), go for it.  This is due to fuel and emission restrictions hard-coded into the western market variant. This saves you a lot of issues.

Siena:
^^^ Welcome back, Ivvie. I've really missed your meaningful contributions.

Yes, the V8 bolt-in job includes the wiring harness and engine mounts. Driveshafts aren't affected, as the same tranny is utilised. The Audi A6 C5 was designed to have a 4,2L V8 as an option (Audi A6 4,2L Quattro, Audi S6) so it's an easy job. I did the conversion on my old B5 A4 Quattro, which never had a V8 as an option, and even that worked well. The V8 all-aluminium engine weighs a lot less than the cast-iron block 2,7T Biturbo V6.

The tacho wouldn't need recalibration, it would just need to be coded to count 8 pulses per cycle, as opposed to 6. The tacho in the C5 A6 is calibrated to count 4, 6 or 8 pulses.

Are you looking to delete the secondary air injection pump on an S4?

Thank you for your warm welcome, Siena It is very much appreciated.

Let's not forget one thing, you are the Performance Engineer and one with experience & feat. You are one of the few that I know that actually knows what he is doing. I remember you were on a magazine and a post of a 'style,' chassis and motor modification (stage 1, 4 & 5).

I've gotten everything noted and will convey it.

Re: SAI - No, I'm not referring to an S4 but A6. The Design and Function Service manual explicitly stated that a tuning device prevents the S4's ECU from being installed in the A6 to maintain its comfort setup. So, an S4 is basically what it is with a watered-down ECU. Honestly, I don't see its purpose but blowing air to dilute cold exhaust gases. O, lest I forget, it is bad and squeaks badly on cold-start up.


Many thanks in advance.

@Siena

I'm following through with your counsel to "Operation" and doesn't sound like a bad idea having a transplanted v8.  So far, by bolt-in drop, you mean cooling system, fuel components, drive shaft, wiring harness and some other misc. that I might leaving out. 

To also get you "straight," the rear end as well?


I believe the tachometer would need recalibration.

Are there other pitfalls or factors to consider? 


Any ideas on how to delete the SAI pump without a CEL?

You have a simple problem. When you've tried a particular method and yielded the opposite in result, then you try the proper way

First, you are going to go a while (about 14 days) without shaving. This is to let the bumps get rid of themselves. You may have to stop at whoever cuts your hair to surface trim it (not cut) for the sake of looking presentable. Do not disturb the bumps. Some may be stubborn and apply nothing to it at night (except for olive oil).

When all or most of the bumps are gone, surface trim it, till it's almost close trimmed then moisten your face till the hair has been softened. Apply olive oil till your skin and beard is absorbed and you can reapply till you have a thick film on you.

The shaving stick you will use will have to be a twin blade stick. Anything else is useless and I'll say Gillette, Pilkerson or like type. Standing upright, shave down 90 degrees with one stroke. You don't shave down then come up at the other side. You only shave in one direction (and that is the direction of your hair growth -- never upwards).

When you are done, rinse with soap and apply the olive oil as the after balm.

The olive oil to use is not the bleached type or the processed type that is yellow or golden in colour. It has to be the cold-pressed type. Olive oil is light sensitive and it should be in a tinted bottle. It should also have some viscosity.

Using shaving creams make you shave every day. With this method, you shave once in three days. It's a bit funny with the stick but the results are remarkable. It is 100% natural plus you get the oxidants, sunscreen and other properties olive oil has to offer. I don't know how you will deal with the 5 O'Clock shadow.

No! This is not the case of exercise. Seems you have a clogged and slow digestive system. The food in your system gets rancid and problems begin to occur. I don't know if you are having constipations every now and then or gas bloats. If none, it's still all good. You are going to do have to do some detox using natural vegetable capsules. I am referring to nutriceuticals, not pharmaceuticals. If you eat 3kg of food, you should pass 3kg of waste in the lavatory. Your body only uses the energy from the food and not the material itself.

When done, you will need to flora/probiotics. What this does is to replenish the good bacteria in your system because you are low on it. This then balances the ratio of good bacteria to bad, thus outnumbering the bad. You'll have a healthy colon and a good digestive health. If you are into eating processed foods, you need to stop it.

Go down to your health food store. It should say Organic and Unfiltered. Anything short of that, you are wasting your time and money except you are cleaning appliances.

The tyres on the rear left is wrongly installed.  It will overheat at medium or high speed and may cause thread separation.  That wheel is to be put on the right side and not the left.  If the wheels are fixed, then it can do either front or back.


It is safety concern.

All the best in your sale.

kuntash:
A Voltage of 5.2 was confirmed on the wires connecting d socket feeding d valve. I also tested d valve by disconnecting d socket n attempting to suck air as d actuator would, but it was blocked whereas with d socket it, it was free,

Let me not jump d gun yet, but I think my mpg might be enhanced after all I ve just done. Just filled my tank 3 days ago and has done 39miles already, let's see how d week goes, would refill again by wkd to calculate d mpg.

Big plus to you. Seems you've got renewed enthusiasm now

No kompressor!

kuntash:


I would test the wires feeding the valve to confirm current gets there, if it does, I would end my quest on this issue for now , Just on d basis of your statement that if it ticks, it means it could be faulty, pls correct me if I am wrong. I have swapped d valve with another, but same scenario, NO tick.
Thanks all the same. I really do appreciate.

You are right. If it ticks, then it's bad. This is assuming the Benz logo is on it. Non-genuine may fail differently. It's close to chatter but not as loud. From my conclusion, you don't have a problem with it. Save yourself your money and return what you purchased.

kuntash:
feel a little relieved,,, but one more thing TRAC,  PLEASE WHERE IS TERMINAL 87 FEEDING THE PCV 

maybe this might just help further if it that PCV works



why I am bothered with all these       simple!      , I believe an engine can work the way it was designed to perform optimally!

Purge valve not PCV.  At the top of the valve itself, you can see the some kind or a switch.  That is where it is where power feeds the valve and statistics are collected. 

I believe your purge valve is good.  If that valve was bad, it would be ticking.  Well, maybe not all the time.  You can test it using a multimeter.  I don't know the tables for current flows and what output should be.  In my case, I simply just replace it. 

kuntash:
why I am bothered with all these       simple! , I believe an engine can work the way it was designed to perform optimally!

I do a lot of preventive maintenance and I replace many things irregardless (especially suspension components). I'm very particular about everything. A new car for a person with poor maintenance culture does him little. The thing with many is that they expect to have a car and only do oil changes, brake pad and tires. Anything outside of this becomes an issue. Some people expect their tires to last 100,000 miles

Mrs.Chima:
Men will never understand.

Men will never understand what?  The fakeness?  Is it the horse-hair mounted or the Burmese hair in big demand?! ((http://www.womensenews.org/story/business/060709/indian-temples-do-brisk-business-womens-hair) (http://www.asiafinest.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=123577))

No, Ma'am!  How do you explain having a wife that you cannot present to colleagues or ashamed to be seen in public with?  An African is an African and embedded with Saharan (including Sub) traits.  Eurocentric standards is not African.  GOD made a race and called it good.  The so-called race saw it fit that they are inferior or improperly built and so, improved on themselves to fit the taste of those that once enslaved them.  How corny.

@Poster

Women will never understand.

Siena:
^^^ Trac, you sound very muck like a Nairalander with the username Ivvie. Very knowledgeable when it comes to technical issues. He hasn't been on here since about 2008. Are you him? He's Stateside too.

Yes Sir!  Yep it's me, my final year in school and my username indeed. Can't remember my password either.  Can't remember AIM, mbworld and many others.  The associated email has been long gone.  I just started afresh. 

sultaan:
No its not Ivvie, he hasn't used the word "elasticity, or tensile limit" yet

I have reserved that for pipeline and fluid flow now.  How about lubrication effects on fatigue life?  Metals and chemical interactions!  (Don't mind me)

I was in the Formula SAE and in the design aspect, this wasn't negotiable (no waste and must be efficient).

The Tourareg is the "plenty" better of the two.  If is a proper off-road vehicle from the chassis up with outstanding polar moment especially when it tripods.  It is capable in most terrains.  Good on soft-road and good off-road.  The X5 is yet yet to attain those credentials.  In my opinion, you will not be getting your money's worth in a BMW.  I'm not sure if it's true that the X5 is based on the chassis of a 5 Series.  The short-comings leave much to be desired.

Look at pedigree.   VW has a lot in the offroad department. X5 is no different from the XC90 or whatever Volvo calls their SUV. It lack off-road capabilities.

GLOBAL X:
Hi folks,

Read through your post and the conversation that ensued.Please i need an advice,I am planning to buy  one Audi a6 1999/2000 model from germany.I do not know anything about car engine.I chose this car cos of the look,its elegant and style.I´m i making the right choice? is it very expensive to maintain?.I do not live in Nigeria,i only want to get it so i can have something to drive every 2 week or 1 month that i will be using in nigeria when ever i travel down.So i do not forsee  to much pressure on the car.
Pls advice.
Thanks.

Choosing a car for the sake of elegance is not concrete.  The Audi A6 you quest has a very discriminating taste.  You'd be messed up if you can't maintain it.  Labour repairs are not cheap and will not be because it is precision crafted and space was maximised.  If you are into fancy cars, look for an korean or japanese alternative.  The word on the street is that they don't have issues.  If you aren't into dependability, go for American cars.  The A6 will reward you hansomely but from the questions you are asking, you haven't sat to examine the cost.

You have a Hot Film Air Mass Sequential EFI (HFM SEFI).  You have an air meter sensor.  Take a closer picture of the area that I highlighted and take a snapshot directly over. 

On the E, I read the tattoo on the fore-panel and came across two unknowns.  The very unknown that I then identified on-site was what I would call a PCV with wires.  In my case, it is right behind the left headlight.

It is colloquial to call it a regenerative valve.  On the emissions blueprint tattooed on the panel, it is identified as a Purge Valve.  The other unknown is the Check Valve and I did not bother figuring what that is. 

I was able to find it and attach it for you consumption.  This is for your model.  There is nothing more said besides what you see in the attachment.  That is because it is a quick-fix kind of repair.

kuntash:
where is Siena O!,

@ Trac, may I suggest you rename the subject as " Engine running low on Audi , " .

we have an Audi guru in the house by name Siena,

Just as you have become my MB guru on my thread, thanks

Ok, I'll change the heading.

@Kuntash


I can't come to a conclusion concerning the regeneration thing. I don't believe people are fools either. I have search but it isn't the deal. The only thing regeneration is the Regeneration Fuel Vapour Recovery and it's all pointing to the location you have shown. To reason things out, PCV's don't have sensors hooked to them. My PCV experiences has not been with a Mercedes.

I'm interested to know what it is also. There are interestingly smart people in this forum. They'll stumble this thread soon. Let us know how everything turns out. For the meantime, replace your air-meter and your plugs. Change your thermostat and be sure to use hot plugs. If all the symptoms you have said aren't eliminated, take it to someone you believe can zero-in on what's wrong.

Re: MAF

It isn't termed MAF but Air Meter Sensor. Same thing, different names.

Some MB models don't have Air Meters. I hope I am right with what I highlighted on your picture. I can't see it clearly.

The attachment has the two set-ups for the 200 engine series. Look carefully, you should discern two exploded compositions. One to your very left (from the Y-axis yielding to the negative Z-axis) and the other from the negative Z point of direction. Both start with the number 5. The component 5 is the Air Mass Meter (or MAF in your own terms). You either have the compostion to your left (the vertical setup that is south with the radiator) or the one by the side of the engine block.

I believe yours is the setup to the right. Let me know if that is right. The part would be a hollow cylinder with an electrical socket and when you remove it, a side should be wire-guazed.

, or a fuel vapour recovery module?

Does it tick?

kuntash:
Hi Trac n all,  in a bid to solving this irregular rpm nightmare @ idle,  I have gone thru some responses online on how the regeneration valve works and its purpose.

here,

The valve pulses 6/7 BPM so that when it is activated, the engine does not get a large gulp of intake air that would be more than the engine could handle all at once without effecting Engine Management controls, [ ie, the ECU would read it as a lean condition vac leak b/c this air is unmetered intake air supply] , the pulsing gets rid of that problem by letting a little in at each pulse.

Every time it pulses , it opens and closes, it does this few times a sec [ htz].
so the flow is actually controlled as to not allow a big gulp of canister vapors all at once. It only does this when the ECU sends a signal to do so.

source:- http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?p=1563128

I just cut the responses with much meaning ,  I would appreciate if anyone could explain further, 

remember its a benz forum,  lest I 4get Trac, where u able to get the contact details of the mechanic in Lagos?

Mercedes dropped the secondary air injection pump system (SAI) in '93 or '94 and focused on other areas to implement the function(s) that was dropped (deleted). Left to me, the crank.vent. has to do with emissions and recycling of some hydrocarbons to reduce emissions and optimise combustion. Driveability will still be poor when something is wrong your crankcase vent because something isn't right. If there are no vacuum leaks in the tubing, then replace the valve. It's a simple and inexpensive repair.

The MAF sensor converts air to current. If it's not giving the right current, a few things happen. The rpm may drop below idle momentarily and the ECU will compensate by increasing the rpm. The further the MAF is getting bad, you'd have rough and inconsistent idle. It will eventually get to the point that you wouldn't be able to tach through the rpm ranges consistently at idle. A habit of the engine stalling would begin to occur. When you unplug the sensor from the MAF unit, you'd be able to drive home. This is also a simple repair.

Change the plugs as well. You should be able to gap and change your plugs if you've gone this far in troubleshooting your vehicle. A clean surrounding, a set of tools including a 5/8inch plug socket, remove the battery terminal and engine must be stone cold when you are unplugging lest you spoil the engine block.

kuntash:
thanks Trac for d doc,

u r right about this.

I dont seem to know where to find the air mass meter in my engine model, I see this device in some other engines attached in line with the air intake chamber, but in my engine model, its not so as you can see from the pic.

I would like to totally agree with you on the temperature required for optimum engine performance, because the car works and moves better when on traffic @ temp above 80degC. ,  When I change the thermostat I would give u update.

That valve I showed in that pic was termed regeneration valve on MB forum (MBWorld.org), I dont know what its really called, just as I explained, I dont think that vacuum is working or perhaps power is not reaching it, I still feel strongly that if all is well with that vacuum, it might just resolve my puzzle, because when the hose to it is removed, the engine rpm moves up and the engine sound increases,

I am confusing you here.  You have been right.  The first and second image is the PCV and not MAF.  I did not explain the MAF sensors.  It's MB's definition of crankcase venitation in their technical documentation.  It isn't comprehension friendly, but you have an idea.  I think I am looking at it but some Benzes have it vertically south along side with the radiator.  I am not sure. 

Maybe you are right about the regeneration valve thing. It looks like a PCV to me. My MB operations and repair doumentation has nothing by name of regeneration valve but crankcase ventilation or egr valve. I have done some googling and I am confused too.

Your MAF for sure is bad as far as I am concerned.  Just buy another.  It has to be Bosch.   In addition to that, change the plugs.  You will have to use copper plus and the hot range ones not the cold.  You are wasting your time with anything else.

sultaan:
JiffyLube


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wiCAJ8ULnaI

Sad! This shouldn't be what we should be worried about. It is the ones we don't know about. Hmn! Nigerians are saints compared to 'this.' In the least, they try in the scope of what they think is best. They actually do some work (including an ECU swap). I don't think they do these for the purpose of entertainment or to make their wallets fat but from lack of understanding and errors in judgements.

Imagine a person that keeps up his oil change status with such businesses, how long will it take before the vehicle becomes a money pit? How long does a car run on fossil oil or the least grade of synthetic oil before noticeable problems occur? The filter is what is scary.