₦airaland Forum

To the original poster:

Begin asking your parents questions. What kind? I don't know, but start from somewhere. Your today comprised of yesterday, a product of yester generation. You cannot move know where you are going to if you have no clue where you are coming from. Different strokes for different folks.

You might also tackle your problem from another approach. Examine yourself! You may have traits that displeases potential men. I am not judging you nor making comments in conclusions but to check yourself. A man that submits in a relation is what my environment terms a wimp & unfit for the pants. You are to be a help-meet in a marriage bond and not the other way (a principle still foreign to many women). It could be just one trait or many that you possess. Serious men would discern this after months of noting and observing you. Never pick a person less than you (potentials, possible potentials, roles, intellect etc). You will spend the rest of your life frustrated and the worst will come out of you.

In addition to this, you are going to have to talk to married women about this. The unmarried cannot help you. There are understandings, issues/matters that an only be understood when one is married. A person's life is not the same after marriage.

I am sure it is now clear that beauty and brains does cannot grant you a man; how much more a "home." There is more to life than meets the eye. The arm of flesh does fail indeed. Do not get desperate. It is the time to be at rest and work earnestly to come to a solution. Start praying! Believe it or not, stubborn cases have been resolved by virtue of prayer. It's not going to be a one day thing but wrestle it till the answer comes. My mom told me that in her time, girls prayed for their hubby as early as their mid teens. You are at one station of life and have been detained.

As Ivynwa said, "may GOD make all things beautiful for you and give you a good companion."

To the person that used Oprah as a reference:  She is not a standard for women in any of the pillars of life.  Rather, has contributed to the decay of womanhood in general.  You are better off as a person with your home-training.  

To the topic - What is left of a female that can't "manufacture" a meal; let alone fix a plate.  Men are not women and women cannot be men, neither can we be raised with alike standards.  Those that can't nurture shouldn't be counselled.  It'll be a warning sign to a wise and God-fearing man for she will flounder making a home out of a house.  For the unmarried, there is still an uncomfortable room for an excuse but the clock ticks irrespective of who it is.  Fact is, you don't have to convince who should learn how to cook and the pedestal upon who/what to look upon (in reference to the person that used Oprah as reference) but it would be wrong castrating women of their feminine nature/instinct all in the name of Western culture that hasn't even integrated in its own territories.  

People copy without understanding.  Sooner or later, the identity will be lost with nothing left but manipulation from "those" that define the rules.

chainy:
@ TRAC,

MANY THANX. YOU MADE MY DAY. I WAS ATTRACTED BECAUSE OF THE SEVEN SEATER ARRANGEMENT AND BANKING ON THE MERCEDES TRADITION OF RUGGEDNESS.

I HAVE ONLY ONE CHOICE AND THAT IS TO RUN FROM THIS AS YOU ADVISED. BUT TELL ME, IS THERE ANY OTHER MAKE WITH SEVEN SEATER ARRANGEMENT THAT BENZ OFFERS WITHOUT THESE OBVIOUS ISSUES SIR?

ONCE AGAIN THANX AND KEEP UP.

CHAINY

Hmn - honestly I never knew the M's were 7-seaters.  To be quite truthful, I didn't consider it to be of sort.  I may not be the best to give a conclusion about seat capacity.  I have never even thought that far in a number of seats for a vehicle when considering a purchase.  Per ruggedness: The only offroad vehicle that meets the criterion of ruggedness is the G Classes.  They are pricey indeed.  If you have the money go for it.  In my personal opinion - avoid all Benz offroad vehicles.  For the money, you'll get something better.  If you want the premium package vehicle as the Benz is, I'll give you an alternatie.  The Porsche Cayenne. Look into it.  It doesn't breakdown and it is durable; maintenance repairs are minimal.  The M's and ML's were built to be reliable (and a bad job at that for that matter).  The Cayenne's were designed to be durable.  Two isolated philosophies from the design concept.  I'm not sure about the seating arrangement in the Cayenne.  You'll also get every penny's worth of your money also. 

All the best in your choice of purchase.

edlion57:
wht is so important  abt dis car

One - It's got what many other cars today don't have -- PEDIGREE.  That includes the so-called Camry.  That alone places it on a pedestal.

Two - For most in the world of automotive, it is the best handling FWD in the world.  In many cases, it is a benchmark to which standards are set.  It has its own legacies in Motorsport history.

Three - You don't get the "moon-walking" technology that the Civic offers in a Mini.  The company doesn't retrogress and the money you pay for is what you get. 

Four - Most of the cue's of the vehicle is an engineering function.  Nothing really is purposeless.

Five - It is a proper vehicle (for what it is) and not an imitation.

chainy:
guz am already arranging for ML 320 the 2000 model. some freinds actually advice that the car has electrical issues and poor fuel economy and these are my fears.

are these complaints really true plsssssssss?

Chainy,

Run from this (if you haven't bought it). It is nick-named "Alabama Benz." It didn't earn that title because it lived to its reputation(s). It was enthroned the Alabama Benz for its myriads of problems of which a huge chunk are electrical gremlins (and some are elevated). In my personal opinion, it is not worth it. Some electric problems but not gremlin in manner. If you are in Nigeria, I'll recommend that you don't purchase a Benz that was intended for the U.S. market. If you insist, then have the timing dialed back to accommodate the use of 87 Octane fuel. I won't need to tell you what's up.

As much as you can, avoid the V6's.

H-Star89:
lol, i play gran turismo a lot

A chassis 203 AMG-tuned should be your type and not the 220. Trust me, you still have more than a handful and loads of twisty torque at your right foot. Call me sexist, but you don't fit the old white lady character.

Gramn Turismo is good but it never mirrored the S65 (that's if it was there - I recall the E & SL/SLK not the S). Owning an AMG is an experience and you can never regret it if you are an owner or enthusiast. It's docile and well tamed till it shows you it's "other" side and often without warning when that power is conjured.

Hmn, video games, racing simulator selections, Mercedes & AMG and Nigerian -- that is 4 for the price of 1. Gamine did not mark this level of territory. That's good of you, truly.

Joagbaje:
@Trac

Thanks, a million. i didnt modify the suspension or its configuration. but i observe that the rod is shaking

Have you fixed it? What were the "conclusions" (if you have)? What "rod" are you talking about?

Joagbaje:
My jeep wrangler 2007 started vibrating violently on the road
When i made enquiries, I was told its called death wobbling
Can somebody please tell the cause of it and it's solutions and if there is any specialist in Nigeria for such American vehicles
It's urgent
Thanks

It's a shimmy.  Though in Wranglers and trucks elevated on wheels (especially monster wheels), shimmy can be visibly seen as it violently wobbles.


I am assuming that you have not modified your vehicle with respect to your suspension configuration. 

I don't know the composition of the suspension to the vehicle in question, neither am I interested. 

A shimmy (from the most part) is caused by worn out suspension component.  In this case, the control arm assembly (ball joints in particular) is the culprit.


Examine these areas - if all's good, then do further investigations within the family. 

Areas to look out for:


Your ball-joints (I don't know if it's a threaded or not through-grove type).
Sway bar end links (this doesn't shimm but mild steering corrections would be needed as you drift from lanes)
Sway bar inner and outer bushings - if your vehicle has its bushings vulcanised to the bar, you needn't worry about this. 


While you are at all these, inspect your tie rod assembly as well and replace.

I don't believe your steering stabiliser shocks would not have been compromised.  This is a cheap and inexpensive repair. 

The last thing to do is an alighnment. I would recommend that the tyres be balanced before the alignment. 


I only limited this to the fore-wheels partly because it is the sector affected.  I excluded the rear-wheels to avoid the post being too complicated.  In addition to that, I am only familiar with the 5-link multi link and the delta-link muliti link suspension.  The Wrangler is equipped with none of these and I don't know what its comprised of.  I think the axle setup is the solid suspension.  Replace worn components in the rear (if you can afford it).

shawonlese:
Is there oil in the engine?

I believe you were joking.

Siena:
The 1,8T models are good. The issues with the 1,8T though, are to do with oil sludge. It's essential fully synthetic oil is used, 5W-30 or 5W-40. You need to stick to just one oil. Most sludge issues arise when oil is topped-up with mineral oil. This forms a thick, black sludge, and the oil pump eventually fails. In most cases when the oil pressure warning lamp illuminates, it's too late, and at the very least, a new cylinder head will be required, along with a new oil pump. If you're unlucky, the engine block will require attention, with the crankshaft main bearings, as well as conrod bearings requiring replacement.

The Factory Operations Manual calls for a minor and major oil changed.  Most never do this and from the update Audi gave, maintenance requirements are even closer (from 7500 to 5000-mile interval).  Many have no knowledge of this and just do oil changes.  I am not surprise about people mis-matching grades or oil-types (e.g. crankcase oil in transmission case).  I do think the vehicles are prone to sludging by inherent design due to the benefits out-weighing the tradeoffs. Maybe I am wrong but I'm basing my opinions on the aforementioned. I'll appreciate the answer to this. It'll go a long way for me in the soon-to-be future.

Question: Is there an oil sheet spec for Audi? My buddy that owns an Audi buys the Audi oil. E.g. MB engines use Mobil 1 with 229.3 sheet formulation.

Siena:
Any mechanic that's familiar with Volkswagen, won't have any issues working on Audi.

First of all, when a Nigerian mechanic attempts (and often succeeds) in discouraging one from buying an Audi, or other automobile other than Japmobiles, they're simply safeguarding their business. And covering up their ignorance. They tend to be set in their ways. If you buy an Audi, then they'd lose you as a source of future patronage.

You like the Audi Brand, particularly the A6. So, I'll deal with these. Between 1997 and 2011, there are two models - C5 and C6. The C5 was available from 1997 - 2004, while the C6 was available from 2004 - 2011. From 2011, a new version was launched, but I won't cover that one here. And seeing as you're interested in a 2001 model, I'll keep things related to the C5 series, for now.

Siena not everyone is as knowledgeable as you are.  You are also into engine and chassis tuning.  Many can't explain why certain sub-parts are equipped in a vehicle but you can.  It started as a passion for you and you grabbed it by the horn.  From your plane, the understanding is simple to comprehend no matter how the curve-ball is.   . . . but not everyone can achieve that feat.  Let's examine the picture -- the Audi' is a mechatronic plant preloaded with predefined statistics (where needed) and an advance "control-systems" that could play on the minds of those that understand it.  In addition to that, it is "precise-engineered" unlike the VW, Seat or Skoda.  This is not for everyone; either the user or the person to work on it.  Mechatronics is not easy because all must work in harmony and when one aspect has a mind of its own, everything goes wrong and it's at the garage awaiting service.  Understand that I am not tolerating nor taking the sides of anybody taking a fee for service and not understanding what is to be done and what's done but let's examine the environment and the people that run it.

It's understanding when the mechanics discourage people from buying an Audi.  The enthusiast will not be moved nor those that have owned Audi's for decades.  People purchase these cars for the wrong reasons.  They only want the better and the car is good as long as it's not calling for maintenance when it's due and when it does, they defer it and the consequences is what is flooded to everyone.  As if it isn't bad enough, non-genuine part are installed after unmounting, paying no mind to what may occur and from there, they have less and less of Audi and more and more of misc. and lo, it becomes a "bag of beans" as it becomes unpredictable.  The Nigerian mechanics know that the cunny method to eliminate symptoms work on American and Japanese cars but not the European from experience and would not bother trying.   Many need to stick to japanese cars where nothing and no attention is paid to it.

dabosuker:
Please where can I get a 1999/1998 MERCEDES-BENZ S-CLASS S600 or S500 SEDAN 4 Door to buy? can it be gotten at Cotonou?

Bump the 1999 versions - they were experimental and totally unreliable due to the fibre-optic configurations. Mechanically, it's as sound as the prior. The best of the 140 model lineups are the 600's. You will not find many of the 99 models on the road because they are garaged and also network instability. It is also a collector. MB enthusiasts look for 99 and earlier. The best for your money will be the pre facelifts.

Be ready to spend a lot of money for it. Nobody will sell a $130000+ Mercedes for a few thousands even after years if it is properly maintained. If maintenance in most ways have been deferred, then you can buy it at book value. Nobody in his right mind would maintain an MB with the huge and advance repairs and then sell it at book value afterwards. A fact is that a cheap Mercedes is really an expensive Mercedes.

The w140 is the most luxurious MB ever made (besides the w112 that preceded the Maybach) and it is also the world's most luxurious car for it's class. Forget accessories, they mean nothing; it is the engineering. You will have to purchase a good working 1998/9 600 Series MB from an owner in person and you can start from the forums and be willing to shell some cash. On the other route, be willing to spend money in maintenance to put it in order and it will be seriously expensive.

I remember in the time past when the Auto section was not as large (bloated) as it is now. It was just an enthusiast section. From my recollection, there was only one person that made classifieds on the Auto Section (Viper) and it made no difference to the section plus he had proven himself to be a trustworthy for at the time, you couldn't make classified 'cause you wouldn't be patronised (who would trust the an average-Joe with no background). It's a whole " 'nother" conclusion today. Anybody places anything and people flood the pages with offers (realistic or unrealistic). Now, it's all bloated with classified. From my recollection, Seun was the only administrator and for the most part, it was all in check without much to complain about. Fast-forward and three administrators later, it is side-ways. An Auto-Classified Section may not be a bad idea; but again, I'm in no position to give alternatives because I don't know what it takes behind the scenes. Many of the classifieds in the Auto Sections have expired or dated. We can start by cleaning them up but everyone is going to have to chip in.

@Tweex

The person to the numbers is alias Engineer-J.

tweex:
Thanks Trac,

I will give him a call and send the pictures once the car is back.

Give him a call -- don't forget the referral I told you.  He doesn't have to know who. He should be blunt to you and will also educate (if need be).

You can forget about sending the pictures since you will be taking it for mechanical repairs.  But I will tell you why I wanted what I requested.  Some models have an air pump right before the ESP module (between the ESP and the left headlamp).  The air pump is for the suspension to the front-left.  To reset the ESP module for models fitted with the air pumps, the terminals for the pump has to be disconnected first, then you proceed to the ESP and unmount it.  If this procedure wasn't followed, myriads of issues will begin but the solution wouldn't be to start fixing or replacing, but reseting.  For models without the pump, proceed to remove the ESP module and remount it and reset the wheel angle sensor.

Keep us posted.

cretin:
trace the air intake box in the engine bay, from it, u will see a big black hose that goes inside towards the engine block.plug area, the throttle body is always under that hose, pull off the hose, u will see a butterfly valve that opens and closes as u match the accelarator, that is your throttle body, spray carburretor cleaner through the throttle body, if you are lucjky, it will resolve the problem,, if not u will have to clean the IAC valve below, your mechanic can help you do that.

nmote: the correct way to clean the throttle body is to take it out and use tooth brush and a good solvent to clean the insides throughly

While you are doing all of these, inspect or best, replace your plugs. They use platinum and be sure to gap them. They are NOT pregapped. I am not familiar with the engine but if you are investigating the car's breathing, you should also look out for the crankcase ventilation (flame trap). I don't know if the car is equipped with a mass air flow sensor. If it does, that needs to be replaced because you will not have consistent rev across the tachometer and will eventually stumble. To test if you have a bad MAF, unplug the sensor leading to the unit and drive. If it doesn't stumble or stall, then you need it replaced. However, while unplugged, you will have rough driveability economy will be very poor. There are other ways to test via multimeter.

tweex:
Hi Trac,

When you say suspensions, are you refering to the engine or car suspensions?
I will try and get the pictures. I just sent the car to the body shop. I will send you the pictures once it been returned. Cheers

Just the engine bay.  I know what I will be looking for.  Just the bay.  From there, I can tell the type of suspension and your Merc build.  At this point, I can only see your ESP but there is something else that I am looking for.  The reason I am asking is if you need to unmount the ESP module, there are precautions to take.  I don't know what you have because the area needed to looked at was not caputred by your lens or was cropped out.  You may not have to reset your ESP but the information may be needed in the near future.

@ Tweex



Let me say the obvious -- the last person to work on your vehicle did an incomplete job; probably skipped some

caution procedures.  I don't know the approach to which the ball-joint(s) (both ought to have been replaced and at

one labour unit) service was done.  The battery ought to have been removed if any of the ESP family would be

disturbed from its rest.  This is how you ended up with the steering/wheel angle sensor malfunction.  The

malfunction was to be cleared by re-engaging the angle sensor.  The procedures below would re-engage it.

*  Crank the engine with no throttle application
*  Turn the steering wheel to the extreme left till it comes to a complete lock and the same to the extreme right
*  Centre the wheel
*  Switch of the engine. 

This should have been done after the service (if he took the battery out).  Also the ESP & BAS will default to the

malfunction mode.  So, the wheel angle sensor should not have been replaced in the first place and the second. 

This is the most direct from what you have given me that should dissolve the problem but there are other issues

which I will try to feed' you on.



With the MB tool not able to establish a relationship, you need to inspect your harness connector to the ESP.  It is

probably faulty or maybe disconnected.  I am not sure about this but I think the early C Classes of that lineup had

connector issues that were prone to fail.  I don't have a C Class and can't verify that.  If I am incorrect about

this, it is something in this segment.  Also inspect your harness. 

There is also a way to reset the ESP (and it isn't what you do on the instrumental cluster) but I can't see your

engine completely to determine your suspension and your car build (though it seems to me it's a 7.01 and earlier). 

The procedures vary.  You'll also need an MB tool to recode it. 



A mechanic should inspect the following.  These (but not limited to) will trigger an ESP fault.  This is also both

corrected and preventive maintenance.

*  The left front wheel sensor  (Take caution to this since this zone got some recent attention)
*  The right front wheel sensor
*  Left rear wheel sensor
*  Right rear wheel sensor
*  Left front brake pad contact
*  Right front brake pad contact
*  Left rear brake pad contact
*  Right rear brake pad contact
*  Pad and rotor wear for all wheels
*  Left/Right Front/Rear brake calipers

and above all

*  The rear SAM control module (just inspect, they never go bad). 



Also, get the wiring right if anything has been altered.  The steering controls must function.


If all is good, then you have a faulty ESP module. 



There are two numbers I will give to you.  I know this man and he is the first Mercedes purist that I know that is

Nigerian.  From what I understand, he was also trained and worked for the Nigerian army on their convoy vehicles.  I

learnt from him that everything must remain as the engineer put it or you should be working there.  Another thing is

that he doesn't steal and would refund what's excess from part charges.  However, he is a bit pricey than other

mechanics.  Be prepared for genuine OEM parts only because he wouldn't use otherwise.  The numbers are 08034047024

&& 07025625064.  Tell him one of his ExxonMobil clients referred you. 



That goes for every other person Benzing or drives a BMW and some japanese models. 


Whoever you choose, arm yourself with these information.

@Tweex

Give me the full engine. Also give me a birds-eye view. I need to know the suspension fitted.

tweex:
hi Trac,

Yes they are 18 inch rims, with low profiles. and yes again I stay in Lagos. Expecting your feedback. Thanks alot

I wasn't referring to the rim size but the overall diameter of the tyre. If it's been fine, then it is fine. You need not mess with it. I will table your feedback tomorrow. It's going to be a long day for me and I can't smuggle this into my schedule. I will cover all that can possibly go wrong from removing the left wheel. You will also do some reset and that is why it will not be a swift post. The fuse box for the meantime to inspect should be the rear. That the zone that governs your ESP. It is on your left. Just inspect. I dont think anything is wrong there.

@Tweex

The region I want is cropped out.  I've gotten the answer I needed. 


I will break it down to you, so that you can arm yourself.  I also believe you have been driving your car with those wheels long before any issue.  I'm not really referring to the rims but the overall diameter.  Moving from 16 inches to 18 or 19 will cause problems.  I think you just have a shorter sidewall (just checking).

I will put it together and also give you a number (that's if you stay in Lagos).  He works on german cars but very strict.  That is because he doesn't tolerate repeat-services (complications due to service just done).

cinzo:
@trac, i posted the two, they are both on different topics

I know you posted them and are isolated topics; but both speak volumes. I don't know what car you drive and if it is after the fact with respect to the link. If so, you have gotten what you paid dor. If it's completely stock, you are probably running rich and the system is trying to match with predetermined data, a bad throttle-body or something within the families mentioned. If the cats are out, you have yourself to blame.

cinzo:
What could be the cause of a car idling at above 1000rpm and the rpm needle not being stable? And what can that do to the performance of the car and the engine in the long run?

Does this sound familiar?

https://www.nairaland.com/nigeria/topic-696073.0.html

tweex:
hi Trac,

Its a 2004 c240, here is the PIX

It doesn't tell me if it's Canadian or American market. There is a difference. I also hope it wasn't a left-hand drive conversion because they are put together differently.

Open the hood and take a clear picture (good resolution) of the engine bay and another as if you were standing right in front of it. I will have to point certain things to you. But first, I don't know what you have. Use a picture hosting site to link it to your post. This way, the image is bigger and easier to emphase upon.

I do understand what happened and will explain it. I will only tell you to take it to a professional and have him reinforce his own diagnosis with what I will tell you. There is also a possibility that the harness has been compromised on its initial service. Using the car as a site, you have 18 different ESP zones and the zones encompasses the car. You've also wasted money on two different occasions for you ought not to have replaced your angle sensor. I hope you still have the initial sensor. Get your money back if you can. The first job was never finished and you paid for all the repercussions.

I don't know how to help you on your steering controls. It is not an electrical issue (apparently). An electrical fault may have occured or a module disabled. Mercedes Benzes with FSS or 2000 and up are connected via network and not electrical systems as other cars are. The car never sleeps but you can switch the motor off but not the car. I don't delve into this area.

tweex:
Just got someone to use a STAR scanner. Same story. hmm,

Just to a brief history: Before this issue started, I had my front ball joints changed. That was the first time the ESP light came up. Taking the car for alignment solved it for week. It came up again and a scan showed the the wheel angle sensor was the problem. Changed that again and I was fine for a while. Then it came up again and this time around, the steering controls and horn stopped working too. The car electrician concluded it was steering wheel angle sensor. I changed that, the horn and steering controls have started working but the "ESP visit workshop" has not cleared from my dashboard.
What is peculiar about the error this time is that, unlike before when it comes up when I am driving but now it comes up immediately the car engine starts. I am so dumbfounded.

I just re-read this and it seems this is where something went wrong. My only theory is that it is out of place or the sensors that trail to the module is not connected. In the interim, check all your fuses. If a fuse is blown, DO NOT REPLACE THAT FUSE. You will need to source why that fuse went out. Also, hav e the person that worked on your ball-joint re-evaluate his work. If the work was done as suppose to, you shouldn't have done the latter. Is your vehicle for the American market & equipped with Kompressor? Where are you?

tweex:
Just got someone to use a STAR scanner. Same story. hmm,

Just to a brief history: Before this issue started, I had my front ball joints changed. That was the first time the ESP light came up. Taking the car for alignment solved it for week. It came up again and a scan showed the the wheel angle sensor was the problem. Changed that again and I was fine for a while. Then it came up again and this time around, the steering controls and horn stopped working too. The car electrician concluded it was steering wheel angle sensor. I changed that, the horn and steering controls have started working but the "ESP visit workshop" has not cleared from my dashboard.
What is peculiar about the error this time is that, unlike before when it comes up when I am driving but now it comes up immediately the car engine starts. I am so dumbfounded.

If star cannot read your onboard, then someone has done something that ought not to have been done. I can't comprehend how Star would come up with no reading. Consider the person that altered your onboard system a genious. Find someone to fix it. Your issue is simple if all went well. The E Classes of the lineup are worse. You have a number of counts for the brakes to actuate before a lockup. This is not due to the brakes but software or control systems architecture. Well, somebody that understands how to fiddle with electronics will have to help you on this. You'll need a blue print to undo "opinions" done on your vehicle.

Pop the hood and lets see the engine.

The tyre is at the wrong side.

tweex:
Hi Trac,

I used a mercedes carsoft scanner to diagnose the ESP. I got the following message: "No connection to ESP" or something like that. I am so confused.

This is because the signal is too high for your scanner plus it's a different tier of access.  There is no such thing as Mercedes carsoft.  It is aftermarket for Mercedes and it is not the real thing and a bit overpriced.  The real kit is a family and the end result ends up on a dedicated workstation.  The system also tells you what the issues may be and gives you the skimped summary of what your repair approach should be.  It doesn't tell you how you will do it.  It's a serious investment -- making carsoft a joke.  Some generic scanners can read it but I don't know which.  I am referring to the $39.99 brand.  This I know because I've had to put support in a thread where the codes read from a generic reader was what we had to work with.  The codes would be different from what Mercedes list as trouble ID's.  You'll still have to do the rest of the diagnosis yourself with or without MB recognised trouble codes.

Take the car in for mechanical repairs.  It's a mid to advance repair and there are some work-in-progress cautions that you might not be aware of.  Doing it by yourself will take weeks since it's all new to you and you don't have the Benz PLC's and tools to work with plus you are missing the blueprint of how it is suppose to work.

@EuroMeka

Where are you located and what Mercedes is that? What's your lowering profile.

EuroMeko:
Love seeing the different Benz models.

Here's one of mine in the US

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-_P0sBUD5FYg/Tfv-Ny6H4VI/AAAAAAAAOfE/96BlsmB8PLg/s800/IMG_0056_2.JPG

I also have a 190E in the fleet.

Here's my Audi, what can I say I love German engineering

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SJ_gkXRKieo/Ruu0nPqTHUI/AAAAAAAABrQ/KW1ThWGKpEM/s800/0002.JPG

@Tweex

How did your diagnosis turn out?

tweex:
Hi Trac,

In addition to the "ESP visit workshop" error, I tried scanning the ESP module with a Carsoft scanner and got got a message cannot connect to the ESP module. Initially I suspected a faulty ESP but realised on the W203 the ESP is integrated with the ABS. So I did a dynomode test (This switches off the ESP) to simulate an ESP failure and realised that the ESP couldnt be bad (because when the ESP module is totally switched of the ABS and BAS faulty signals would come on).
From your new response I am beginning to suspect the fuse. Can you confirm where the fuse box is located and where i can get fusebox map.

Complicated -- but I will answer your question accordingly.

A generic scanner won't help you on this.  Even if you correct things, you can't clear the errors except you know what your are doing and do the non-recommended method.  You will need an MB electronic tools & PLC's and with all of that, it is still a mingled work because the majority of the task depends on your understanding and skill.  It would have been easier if you had the MB codes 'cause we would have just zeroed in on the actual problem(s) but let's work with what we have.

Overriding the ESP launch will not emulate a faulty ABS/BAS.  You only have one module and that is the ESP module (let's hope this isn't faulty because it is pricey).


Many things can throw the error.  I will list a few but it isn't just limited to what I will list.  A faulty bulb, brake pad sensors, worn out pads, worn out rotors, ABS pump or the ESP module is going bad.  I also know this for a fact that if you drive spiritedly and push it continuously to its limit, you get the ESP service error but it goes off when you restart the car.

In the first place, we don't know if it's bad.  If you are sure you have no deferred maintenance, the first thing to do is to remove the negative terminal on your battery and leave it disconnected for about 5 - 10 minutes.  Then drive around.  If it comes on, then you have a problem.  This is so because anything could have tripped (e.g. potholes at inappropriate speeds).  If it comes on, you will need to investigate the aforementioned possible scenerios.

There is nothing wrong with the fuse for if it were the case, you'd be in limp-home mode.  But you can't escape this in your diagnosis.  I don't know your vehicle market but from my knowledge, you should have three sites.  The first site is in the hood (bonnet) and the zone is at the firewall, the second is at the drivers cockpit normal to the dashboard profile (left) -- the door has to be opened because the door panel flushes against it.  The last site is at the trunk (boot) at the drivers half. 


Some caution - if you have to do any kind of replacement on the discs or pads, disconnect the batteries. 

I really do hope you have a cheap to medium solution.  It is more likely that you will take your vehicle to a professional.  Above all, the last you should do is to replace the ESP.  Funny enough, the purchase of some Mercedes' don't end with the initial purchase.

Claracuzio:
Yes trak have bought it

All the best.

Siena:
Make: Mercedes-Benz.
Model: 190E W201.
iron.



Notes: Over-engineered sedan from Mercedes-Benz. With £600,000,000 spent in Research and Development, it hardly comes as a surprise. Beside the larger Mercedes-Benz W124 (V-Boot) the 190 W201 remains the last of the true mercedes-Benz with optimised engineering. [b]Tough, hard wearing, reliable, the 190 series will outlast the current equivalents in the range. One of the first Mercedes-Benz models to be engineered for the track, with the introduction of the Mercedes "Cosworth" Evo II, the 2,5-16V version was hard to beat, and was Mercedes-Benz's response to the BMW E30 M3. Today, most 190 series are cossetted, and pampered by their owners. A favourite in the Mercedes-Benz classic scene, the 190 W201 will be around for decades to come, a true modern day classic icon.[/b]

OTHERS TO CONSIDER

BMW E30 320i 2,0 I6 automatic (130 bhp).
Audi 80 B4 2,0 16V I4 automatic (137 bhp).
Volkswagen Passat B3 2,0 16V I4 automatic (137 bhp).

You are slightly off Siena, the w201 series isn't the last of the over-engineered Benzes. The w140 is the last over-engineered model made. When the entire design was completed after years of design, research and development, the cost to bring forth a 140 into production (build) was outrageously high and at some point MB comtemplated dumping the entire production but they had wasted years in funding the development (about 13 years or more in development). They decided to forge in production but the chief overseeing product engineer (who was also the project manager) was fired. MB ran at a loss and by '94 MB refreshed the the model lineup to recover cost. The tail lights (cheap compared to the ones that left) are one of the obvious, the seat leather, options taken out and and many other lots of parts were updated (not because of technology but for cost). I cannot remember all that was done for cost recovery because it's been a long time but you have an idea of what I'm talking about ---- and (oh!) the Benzes got lighter.

For what I crossed out; I believe this is still the auto forum (no offense anywhere). Over-engineering does not go along with reliability. It also never lends itself to reliabilty and can never coexist in terms of reference. It's an oxymoron.