₦airaland Forum

Onwan:
@Kunle-A
From my experience, there are two major causes;

1. Most times when we blow a fuse in our vehicles, our rewire guys do not replace the blown fuse with the exact rated fuse; they simply replace with an identical fuse (20A for a 5A for instance) OR they wrap flexible wires around both contact points on the fuse (these also does not in any way conform to any rating). What then happens is that in the case of a wiring fault, too much current is intruduced into the system (since the fuse wont cut) and in most cases heads straight for the brain.

2. The second thing is flooding and basically water on our roads touching or splashing on unprotected connectors or connections, this does serious damages too.

First of all, I find it hard to believe a person would replace a 5amp for a 20amp.  I'll give you the benefit of the doubt because no matter how much you idiotproof something, an unfit person will still be made out of it.  Where the logic I cannot understand is how an ECU gets bricked.  No matter how much you circumvent anything, there is still the semi-boss before you get to the ECU.  By the time you begin to fool around at this level, all systems have been shut down and operations halted till it is fixed.  There are still other mini-bosses but this semi is impossible to bypass and then blow the ECU.  It is called the OVP.  By the time matters get to the OVP, you are having serious issues already because there will be symptoms but the root will have to be sought after.

VolvoS60:
@ info@lpf   

   

Indeed the people perish for lack of knowledge. But I have heard worse stories than yours - much, much worse.

I have come to terms with local mechanics - all bets are off when dealing with them, particularly when newer cars are involved. Some of our local mechs simply do not have a clue about diagnostics kits for detecting faults. They do not have the hardware and have not been trained and of course, they can't handle even the most basic problems that crop up.

But it may shock you to know that some of the so-called authorised dealers and service centres are just as bad. At least, with good old Lateef & Kabiru (my local mechanics), I know what the score is. I hover around Lateef & Co. like a hawk whenever i take my car in for repairs - I buy parts and spares myself and make sure they are fitted there and then - i don't want any explanations about how palm oil (instead of engine oil) ended up in the sump. The ''authorised dealers" on the other hand, usually do not allow customers to go into the workshop/service bay. And that sir, is the heart of the matter. I recently took in my car for routine servicing at the brand's so-called mobile workshop, and was lucky enough to observe firsthand all that was going on. The first sign of trouble was the "funnel" used to prevent spillage of the engine oil while pouring it into the block - it was nothing other than a used plastic water bottle, with the lower half sawn off. (??!!). The second sign of trouble was the case from which the oil itself was being poured - it was a grimy old plastic keg. At this point, i got angry and insisted on knowing the source of the oil, its API rating, etc. The best the service technicians could do was show me a large metal drum, more or less saying "na dere we dey get am from". No further details.

Needless to say, I havent been back there since.  Very dissappointing. Surely, the sombrero in the oval can do better.

The dealers are the worst.  They sell you parts by function and not by name.  This way, it sounds like a complicated part-gone-wrong.  In some cases, they don't even replace the parts paid for.  There is a 20/20 show on a particular dealership exposed.  Unknown to them, a camera was equipped.  If I must remember, the least you can do is to mark your filter before going for an oil change.  They understand how to patch a vehicle till the warranty is up and always, their best recommendation is to purchase another vehicle at the expense of trading the current.

sultaan:
Don't adjust the speed it is computer controlled.
Usual culprits for idle blip is vaccum leak, ignition and battery(funny thing happen when batery is low)

Vaccum leak will cause persistent drop in idle rpm, ignition will be a drop at regular interval so you'll have to pull plugs(use oe type) and look for unusal burns{it would have given a DTC). So its narrowed down to battery and vaccum.If the valve job was done right.

A wild card here 
Bent valve is usually caused by failed timming(so check your timming) .Piston running into open valve should not be caused by too much boost, there is a pressure release system in place.

The best idea it to carry a bag of cash and that "old car" to a reputable Audi dealer(pray for mercy).

Camshaft and cranshaft will be change when car dies, or throw a code

Thanks Sultaan,


I'll convey the message as said. I referred to camshaft positioning sensor and not camshaft. A faulty camshaft positioning sensor will bend a valve. The service of the bent valve was done two years ago but a one-way trip cannot be made without a misfire afterwards. As a matter of fact, this is the first time in two years that this vehicle has idled for 20 minutes without a misfire. It is the first time that it's been on the freeway without a misfire or CEL. The last time, it was towed home.

Everything in the car has been out of specs, broken connectors and cooling system messed up. I believe the car overheated in the time past. I also want to suspect that the timing is wrong as well since many other things were wrong too.

One thing you pointed out -- the timing. It is after this service all this started. Well , , I guess the rest has to go to a professional.


Many thanks!

kuntash:
tanks for your response Trac,  its an M111 engine, W202, I would appreciate if you can help me check whether that vacuum does work with the aircondition,  u r dead right on the rough idling it,  it even stalls when the gear is engaged or the AC is on,  this is more evident when the engine has not heated up.

A better start.  The information I have attached is for one of the 27 engines under the model 200 engines.  In the first place, have the proper thermostat installed.  One thing you should note about Mercedes and the other genre that falls within the Benz suffix is that your vehicle collects statistics right from the time you crank the engine and matches it with the predetermined stats with a tolerable margin of error.  When you fall out tolerance, issues begin. You might mess with your short term fuel trim (STFM) and long term fuel trim (LTFM) because engine will never get to operating temperature, therefore resulting to poor stoichiometry

In this case, the A/C is a separate issue.  It could be a simple leak on one of the vacuum lines or because something is out of specification and the fail safe kicked in. 

It seems you have a bad air meter or mass air-flow meter. If the vehicle is stalling at mid-warm up, you should try disconnecting the sensor that plugs to this air meter and see if you can have it stay on without stalling. If it does, you need to change this. A note of caution - driveability will be poor and loads of fuel will be burnt withi short trips. MAF basically converts air to electric current as signal to the engine.

kuntash:
I googled what you called it and came up with this below,  could this be my case?


THE BASIC OPERATION OF A PCV VALVE
(POSITIVE CRANKCASE VENTILATION)

A PCV valve is one of the first pollution control devices.  It allows crankcase fumes to be burned in the combustion process.  Engine vacuum pulls airborne pollutants from the engine valve cover to the carburetor or fuel injection system through a rubber hose.  The PCV valve is a small plastic or metal cylinder housing with a valve & spring inside. When the engine is running, engine vacuum draws engine fumes to the air intake system.  Engine vacuum is greatest at an idle.

A PCV valve that sticks could cause an engine to:

1.  idle rough
2.  have poor acceleration                 
3.  form sludge                 
4. cause poor fuel economy


source: http://www.getaboutauto.com/articles/TheBasicOperationOfAPCVVALVEPositiveCrankcaseVentilation.html

To be honest, I had doubts if you'd comprehend the first page of the attachment since its senseless to the unsavvy but you have started.  The literature MB put is a bit awry but you already know the bulk and the idea behind it.  I do believe it is a crankcase ventilation valve and not a positive crankcase (not much of a difference in the two).  The first image that you look at is at idle to mid-partial.  The second is at partial to full throttle. 

The second page is for replacing your thermostat.  If you can turn a wrench, don't pay anyone to do it for you.  A bit of coolant will spill but it isn't a thing to deter you from doing it.

That's a crankcase ventilation valve otherwise known as an breather. Volvo calls it a flame trap. If there is no leak anywhere within the tube lines, then the fuel vapour recovey module is bad. I don't know its composition to determine if you can salvage it by cleaning. It may have oil in it. You may have to purchase another since there is an electrical connector to it.

The consequences would be a rough operation (vehicle will run rough). It will eventually throw a CEL (check engine light). It's almost 4.45AM and can't further this. I'll go through the operations suite however. If there is literature worth knowing, I'll attach it or paste it.

Do you have an idea what engine it is? I'm totally unaware of it. It looks like an M104 from the block and I don't know its engine management system. I'd assume its HFM-SEFI

sultaan:
I think you may be looking straight at your problem, but I may be wrong.

A battery is ~12v and ~14 when running yours is just a little under 14, go get battery check at autozone/walmart first.

My jeep was doing the same thing till battery started running low. When you worked on car your battery was disconnected for a couple of days, now needs to be recharged fully. Testing will be the cheapest and easiest thing to do now before looking for vaccum leaks.


Scan for DTC, idle speed is normal btw 600-800.

Sultaan,


The battery was replaced and it was another experience entirely. It is way too tight to work on (bay). On the flip side of the coin, you might be right because I don't know what is put there. It isn't my vehicle.

Very strong point indeed. I can't reason what you have said but I will learn. However, batteery specification will be compared to OEM befor the grace period is over for return.

Operation:
you should check with a dealer what the normal idle rpm should be, ive checked on a few forums and they reckon its around 800 i read somewhere that there is a screw on the tb that you can use to adjust it, its been raining so i haven't checked on mine. well if there is only a really minor problem that you feel occasionally and the car is running smoothly otherwise, is there really much point spending all that time and money on a car that over 10 years old? even if it is amazing!!!

I believe the car is 6 years old, however I have to question your maintenance culture. If you'd dump so much money on a new vehicle, what makes the older less justifiable? Snob appeal?! That is the norm amongst Nigerians here. Actually worse, they buy vehicles they can't maintain and expect to wish their maintenance activities away. Think otherwise and you'll always have money in your account instead of some corporation statistically defining and predicting you.

If you know what you have Operation, you wouldn't treat it as an Asian product. The vehicle is an S4 but neutered from its original ECU for comfort orientation thus making its natural territory on road and secondard on a close circuit. It's a plenty fine piece of engineering for the nature of which it was sold. There are some cars you can toss at the snap of choice.

You are on course now at 800 than your last reply. I assumed that the engine speed could be raised. I have a Benz background, so I'm not familiar with Audi's.


-----

The battery will be examined -- one can't trust a sales person. Thanks.

seal777:
if what ALAKANNI is analyzing is correct, have them check your brain box.

Hmn, the ECU when the vehicle is dumping fuel with inadequate air?!   There are better conclusions that are wrong than this.

Air/Fuel Ratio is off, fuel pressure modulator and some vehicles as this, O₂ sensor.  If you bought a hot-rodded Honda with compressors, you are most likely to experience this when the compressors go out or the setup went wrong somewhere.  It is never the ECU.

ECU's never go bad. Even if one or two did, it's a rare and isolated problem. People better start taking second or third opinions before taking actions.

Interesting!

It's about time to get a properly built desktop with a decent to pro graphics card. The real deal is that the board is way basic in how it handles and puts down speed when performance is called for and the graphics card isn't at part to today's standards.

You need to play games, HP is not your route.

Operation:
yes well I hardly had time to be responsible for its up keep, considering i bought it a few days before this happened, took it to a reputable service garage (mobil) only to have them damage the fan and bleed the coolant, a cool 42000 naira for the service, - destroyed head gasket free of charge.

Not nice!

I'm just having the time to read through the thread. You made a serious point of the service mechanics messing things up. It's just funny how we are at the mercy of certain people in life. We can't know everything.

If you decide to still stick to your original engine, it won't be a bad choice to remachine all your valves. A MLS gasket would be best. I am not an Audi enthusiast and I don't know the engine as much as I am sure about.

Audi/VW are not credible sources because their first objective is to sell vehicles. A head gasket job is an advance repair. The car is picky comes to coolant. There are lots of horror stories on this issue for those that neglected this simple warning label. Coolant should be red. or pink (something odd in the colour of red or so).

Operation:
it looks to be only 100 or 200 rpm too high, I've heard that its a common problem for the bosch MAF's to go bad on these, not totally failing but sending wrong information, a scan wont pick it up either, so maybe changing it might make a difference,

You are wrong Operation. This in my opinion is too low. I can't conclude it to be about right. If too low, fuel wouldn't burn right and would affect the cylinder walls.

A bad MAF would give you an erratic idle. Idle may take a plunge and give you engine vibration momentarily and return to normal idle. Vehicle runs extremely smooth in both ildle and acceleration. Engine doesn't bump (engine dropping rpm slightly inbetween gear changes). The MAF is also in the list of things to be replaced and camshaft sensor because it bent a valve rod and I can't think of any reason why besides a camshaft position sensor and maybe a prior overheating by the previous owner.

kuntash:
Thanks a lot Trac. First I would replace d thermostat, I would take a pic of d vacuum 2morrow and post here. I really appreciate your valued contribution to dis thread.

It's all good.

prinsbasy:
I has a C240 2002 W/203 benz. Each time i start it, it shows 3 malfunctions, One states that "substitute lamp is on", the second states "change lamps" and the third states " SOS, visit workshop", Pls can anyone out there tell me what to do, I wud be very grateful for your assistance, And please can anyone also tell me where i can find a real benz mechanic in Abuja, Nigeria?,

SOS is teleaid. You can forget that or have someone deactivate it for you. One of your bulbs is burnt. Encompass your vehicle. If all is well, it may be a faulty harness somewhere. Somebody is going to have to troubleshoot it for you. Anything can throw a warning light. The error is "Substitute light is on, change lamps."

kuntash:
Thanks for your response Trac.

- I have a C-200 Elegance.
-If u read some of my posts earlier, I have stated that I am kinda new to Benz even though I appreciate the ride.
- you sound quite technical, this is good, however, there could be other persons like me who would appreciate you juxtapose your MB terms with pics. e.g the Wahler and Behr thermostats.

- I was also hoping to read a line where u might refer me to a MB professional that understands the workings of a w202 of my year, I don't compromise quality repairs, if I cant afford it, I sell or dump the car until I am ready, the fact that a professional is being sought doesn't mean one should pay at a cut-throat price.

- Just as I explained in my last post, the module that kicks the fan and regulates its speed is right in front of the driver's side of the front Tyre. about 5 separate wires socket hooking onto the module.

In my own case, I didnt get the car as new or even a first time user in Naija, and according to my mechanic, its had an history of over-heating, and the gasket I am sure has been tampered with even as explained by my mechanic, I am seeing the car as an experiment, and so far, I am impressed even though experiments could be expensive sometimes

Kuntash,


MB made 27 different C200 engines. If I remember clearly, the trims for the market at that time was Classic, Espirit, Sport and Avantgarde. I do remember the Elegance and believe it is between the Sport and Avantgarde or after Avantgarde but it tells nothing about an engine but trinkets. I will take your word as gas with no force injection, thus narrowing it to 3 model engines. I do hope you did a like-for-like engine transplant.

I'm giving back this feedback because the "literature" to these engines differ and you need not bother yourself with what you do not have.

Look through the car's tattoo. You should see some numbers. Check the engine, there should be the major assembly number as well. If not, post a VIN and I will look it all up for you.

I've sought after the number of the service mechanic for you. It will be posted after I receive it.

aduje:
House Pls help.

I drive a Benz 190 and it has been faithful to me. A friend said it is possible to adjust the injection system for lower fuel economy. How possible is this and what is the likely technical/performance implication of such re-work or adjustment.

You cannot improve on your fuel economy by doing the above stated. You can only achieve a better gas economy by properly tuning your vehicle. You cannot improve fuel management in a Mercedes. The engineers gave it at the maximum stoichiometry possible and if there was a better way, you should have gotten it. Cars have limits and the limits to your vehicle was given to you. You cannot improve on that engine. That is the best you can get.

kuntash:
to add to ^^^^

I just swapped my engine last week,

reason,

1- I have noticed the throttle body actuator isnt working well, (if you remove the hose connected to it linking the regeneration vacuum , nothing is noticed) whence with the idea I had with other cars of its kind, you would notice a strong air sucked in by the actuator, the cost of another actuator was from 8k or more, labour, N500 naira to 1.5k

2- I thought I would be able to gain more power and gain on gas, cos I did notice some leaks around the gasket although the quantity was insignificant - but I suspected it could result to loss of pressure and thus power.

3- The engine was relatively cheap, and quite neat and had pressure as confirmed by the mechanic, (Engine was 35k)


Putting all these together, I had to go for the replacement, since I would be getting an engine that has not been worked on, the engine has been running for 8-days now, so far so good? I have to confess, I didnt really notice that much difference in the power I wanted especially when AC is ON, but the actuator worked, no oil leaks, infact, I am still running with the engine oil that was in it, I had a thermostat with 71/degC, in my old engine so I used it, I have noticed the temp rarely gets to 80DegC, meanwhile the new engine had a rating of 87degC, is anything wrong with this?, should I return it to the original status of 87?,

Also, how can I test that the regeneration vacuum is working with the actuator, I expected a "tick - tick or vibrating sound from that small vacuum"

thanks

Running an MB engine at 71degC is injustice to the engine. You will wear your piston rings, the car wouldn't run well. The normal engine temperature is 87deg. The principle that damaged the old engine is what you should be expecting in the new if you do not put in the specified heat rating. Besides, you are wasting your fuel plus, it can't burn the fuel completely.

I am totally unaware of your engine or that model.

What do you mean by regeneration vacuum? I am thinking you are referring to a crankcase ventilation valve. If not, be a little specific. But first above all, get your engine temperature right.

In my spare time, I will go through the sheets of your vehicle model.

kuntash:
Thanks for your response Trac.

- I have a C-200 Elegance.
-If u read some of my posts earlier, I have stated that I am kinda new to Benz even though I appreciate the ride.
- you sound quite technical, this is good, however, there could be other persons like me who would appreciate you juxtapose your MB terms with pics. e.g the Wahler and Behr thermostats.

- I was also hoping to read a line where u might refer me to a MB professional that understands the workings of a w202 of my year, I don't compromise quality repairs, if I cant afford it, I sell or dump the car until I am ready, the fact that a professional is being sought doesn't mean one should pay at a cut-throat price.

- Just as I explained in my last post, the module that kicks the fan and regulates its speed is right in front of the driver's side of the front Tyre. about 5 separate wires socket hooking onto the module.

In my own case, I didnt get the car as new or even a first time user in Naija, and according to my mechanic, its had an history of over-heating, and the gasket I am sure has been tampered with even as explained by my mechanic, I am seeing the car as an experiment, and so far, I am impressed even though experiments could be expensive sometimes

Kuntash,


I just got on this forum yesterday. There is a german-purist in Lagos. As soon as I have this number, I will post it up.

To answer the areas you stressed:

Behr is a better thermostat brand than Wahler. The same price but Wahler is not predictable. Benz's run hot and when Wahler fails, it fails in the open state. In other words, the coolant gate is open and it begins its purpose from the time you crank your engine. Since an engine is hot by nature, it will take about 5 to 7 minutes to get to 80degC as oppose to 2 minutes. You will not suspect anything. I noticed mine when it took forever for my heater to warm the vehicle at very low fan speed and the engine temperature never got to 40deg on a snowy day.

I will a service person for you by this time tomorrow.

Operation:
Siena you make me feel better about this new engine after every post!!! so, your saying that to change both heads would be around £1000, and you can buy a 4.2 v8 for around £800, i think i would go for an engine. The reasons why I don't want to have the mechanics dig around in my engine and change the gaskets is 1. they have no idea what they are doing. 2. they told me it would take them 3 weeks minimum, !? (lol) 3. they pointed to the 2 "small radiators" in the wings and asked why they were there and if they should remove them because there was already one in the front. no jokes. I'm assuming to change a head gasket would be over 100,000 naira. and then the engine would never run properly again. because they are bound to F*(& something up. I did ask over at audi on vi, they advised me to buy another car. lol
if there was someone here that i could trust to do a good job, at a fair price. (non of that criminally priced Lebanese bollocks) i would definitely have them do it. But sadly, I am let down once again.

It all burys to the fact that you are responsible for the up-keep of your car and not a mechanic and worse a tech. You may not be savvy but who you take the car to is totally your responsibility. Take some time to know what you have and arm yourself with a second or a third opinion before you shell some money to a person in return for service. If you think Nigerians are incompetent in fixing a car especially your S4, come down to the States. After several dollars of being in the hole, reconsiderations would be made after frustration. The truth is that the majority are incompetent and few know what they know. If you understood the nature of your vehicle, from the onset, you'd have taken the pain for a qualified indy in dealing with it. Truly, all the best in your choice outcome.

Siena:
I have two 2,671cc V6 30V Biturbo engines. One is from a 2000 Audi S4 B5, the other is from a 2003 Audi Allroad 2,7T.

I also have access to a 2003 Audi A6 4,2L V8 Quattro.

Which do you need? Or are you carrying out an engine conversion? I only ask, because you mention B5 Audi. The B5 Audi is the A4 / S4 from 1998 - 2001, and there was never a V8 option, unless you convert one to V8 power, which I did in the past.

Siena,


I'm currently working on one at this point. It's a BEL SR 2671 187 MPI Bosch. It's got a tiptronic . Currently, I'm finished along with its owner but the engine speed at idle is low.

https://www.nairaland.com/nigeria/topic-647024.0.html

It bent a rod a two years ago and having done of that, it's been one misfire or the other till we decided that we will do it ourselves. When the plugs were rooted out, iridiums were observed and it was fouled with deposits. Besides the insult of the plug genre, the six plugs were gapped at about .23 to .26. The last owner along with the last service tech or mechanic did the vehicle injustice. So far, everything has been done according to spec. This is the last hurdle. Ironically, I do not know the factory rated idle rpm for the vehicle.

Please, check my post.

https://www.nairaland.com/nigeria/topic-647024.0.html

I doubt this is considered normal operating rpm at idle. A valve job has been done, cooling redone and plugs changed till this came to my attention. There is a very faint hesitation that can barely be notice but I believe it's either a MAF going bad or the nature of a 90 degrees V6. It's like once in 20 minutes but barely noticeable. Vehicle accelerates linearly with no hesitation and also picks up speed accordingly. It is 100% stock.

http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/h347/dsgnn/a956c685.jpg
http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/h347/dsgnn/eea28258.jpg
http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/h347/dsgnn/e655a024.jpg

The vehicle is an AllroadQuat2.7v618 with a BEL_SR_2671_187_MPI_Bosch with tiptronic. I am not too conversant with the Motronic 7.1 management system so, I can't figure out how to raise the engine speed. I am hoping it is not a faulty throttle body or something similar because $7000 later, the vehicle has not covered 2000 miles and the owner and I are having to fix the entire vehicle ourselves.

I would also appreciate how to test for a faulty camshaft positioning sensor on this vehicle. It bent an intake valve rod at more than 60 degree angle.

Thanks a lot!

Fhemmmy:
What was the post about?
Sometimes, it is the spambot that delete posts so dont take it personal

It is about an engine running too low at idle. I'm not too familiar with the engine itself. I don't know if it's normal. It's a Bosch Motronic Me 7.1.

I guess I was filtered because I attached three links from Photobucket.

I will draft another and repost editing the topic.

Thanks.

kuntash:
Thanks Kabukabu and German,

I have not really found a reliable mechanic even though there would be many out there , ,  hence I try to fix simple things on my own and do follow up with some mechanics.

I rarely get satisfied with with the way most mechanics repair cars in Naija, many of them are in the attitude of " IT DOESNT MEAN, IT WOULD WORK THAT WAY , OR THE OTHER TYPE CAN WORK WITH IT" SYNDROME , those things drive me real sad. For example, even though the W202 is designed to be hot, it has a certain degree of temperature it gets to before the fan motor engages and starts working as auxiliary or in panic mode etc,  but here u see mechanics and car owners bypassing fan motors to alternator etc,  and many more!

I think the missing factor is how much you want to spend for repairs. If you live in Lagos, what you have posted isn't true.

User, under no circumstance should your vehicle be modified. Everything is put for a reason, specified for a purpose. If anybody knows better, they should be working at the Stuttgart or Afalterbach location.

Your vehicle should begin overheating after 135degC and 135degC indeed. That is what the design manual says. As long as the vehicle is underneath the red line, you are still fine. This differs from any other car on the road. You should have 3 modules of cooling system. One of them is the last resort when all have gone wrong.

Normal operating temperature should be 87degC to 90degC. At 100degC, you should have the the your two auxuilliary fan kick in at medium speed and over hundred, come at full blast till the temperature is brought below 90degC. In the case of the extreme due to one issue or the other, the third fan kicks in. This is the backup when all has failed or cannot achieve the desired outcome or fans are blown. This is the mechanical viscous fan. The problem is that it is seldom or never used and so, it could stuck after 20 or 30 years of never being used since date of production. This brings it down till you begin moving. Compared to other vehicles, the temp guage is a live guage and not the dummy 3-point position you find in other vehicles.

Anything less than the setup explained, you need to get your cooling system in order lest you warp the head and blow a head gasket.

Another note to consider. You do not need a fan clutch unless it begins to make noise when you start-up in the morning. If you decide to replace the fan clutch, you should get the "tropical fan clutch." MB made those for the tropical region and the supplier is Sach's.

If you have the Wahler thermostat, you need to junk that and get Behr. Wahler fails in the open-state without warning and coolant active from start. Engine runs cold till the coolant heats up till it overheats. Sheer stresses also deteriorates the fluid till it looses its properties. You'll constantly be running the engine over 100degC causing all your fans to kick in.

What engine configuration do you have?

kuntash:
I think I had found the cause of the AC fan not working, I noticed two causes, firstly, the compressor had insufficient oil as a result of leaks earlier experienced. thus the intermittent pumps and offs, and since the AC fan works with the pressure generated by the compressor, (which was lacking) the fan could start all the time, Also, the module controlling the fan speed just under the hood close to the front wheel of the driver's side was having partial contact with the socket as a result of mud build-up water etc, (Naija obviously was not in the thinking while that car was made)

Solution, 1. I added oil to the compressor, and it picked after the oil circulated, cooling was achieved, the fan picked also, but stopped after I drove alone bumpy roads,
2. I removed the fan speed control module socket and made the female ends firmer by reducing the space in it. fixed it back, since, the fan has been picking when the AC is working.

What do you have? C-what? What's your engine and what year from the tattoo?

If you have a bad loom, you'd have myriads of issues. Depending on certain years, the loom is the major setback the lineup models offered.

Another fad engineering. The craze will only be for a season as the CLS is and would pick up dust at the dealer's lot when it's no longer in style and lease is also up for the vast majority that get swept. I hope that isn't the final appearance. MB is yet to learn that no one wants a reliable Merc any more. If that's the case, we've got BMW and Toyota to opt for.

BMW's are not reliable. BMW is not at par with Mercedes or VW. Isolating accessories, the engineering is a lot generic when you compare it with a Merc in all approaches (combustion, suspension and other aspects that I can't think of right now). The setup from plant makes it seem as an unique standard that other cars should seek after but it's just tactic. You can make a setup of whatever you desire if you understand how -- let alone do it.

The 3 Series are the worst of them all.

In as much as I won't recommend the Volvo but it is the better of the two in terms of reliability and cost (making reference by brand and not the vehicles in reference).

The Volvo is simpler with a rock-solid transmission.  Parts are pricey for anything small but it is a better buy.  The BMW is a joke. 

If you are an enthusiast and you work on cars by yourself or a handy person, you can opt for the Bavarian but your money's worth cannot be gotten if your maintenance culture is poor or cannot afford advance repairs to keep it running as new.  I've never been in a V40 but it's pretty much something you can work on if you have the tools and the apt for such.

I believe both cars have a harsh setup.

I doubt this is considered normal operating rpm at idle.  A valve job has been done, cooling redone and plugs changed till this came to my attention.  There is a very faint hesitation that can barely be notice but I believe it's either a MAF going bad or the nature of a 90 degrees V6.  It's like once in 20 minutes but barely noticeable.  Vehicle accelerates linearly with no hesitation and also picks up speed accordingly.  It is 100% stock.

http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/h347/dsgnn/a956c685.jpg
http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/h347/dsgnn/eea28258.jpg
http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/h347/dsgnn/e655a024.jpg

The vehicle is an AllroadQuat2.7v618 with a BEL_SR_2671_187_MPI_Bosch with tiptronic.  I am not too conversant with the Motronic 7.1 management system so, I can't figure out how to raise the engine speed.  I am hoping it is not a faulty throttle body or something similar because $7000 later, the vehicle has not covered 2000 miles and the owner and I are having to fix the entire vehicle ourselves. 

I would also appreciate how to test for a faulty camshaft positioning sensor on this vehicle.  It bent an intake valve rod at more than 60 degree angle.

Thanks a lot!

I understand that this is an old thread but the M.J. that we have been accustomed to down the years isn't Michael Jackson. Compare Off The Wall to the sequels. It is obvious it isn't even the same person. Many people were used during the years to give us the final flavour that we have gotten to know. If one understands certain details, there would be no integration of fiction with reality.