₦airaland Forum

@Gazzuzz. I think now you're getting g what I'm saying!
I think that's another option you've pointed out now.
If they refused you getting the Vin, you run away then?! Similar to what you do when trying to buy any car from the USA, or Nigeria. You check the vin, and run a Carfax report. But I hope you know often times, you've got to retrieve such Vins clandestinely.

@Gazzuzz. The message has being relayed? That PIC looks like my kid in kindergarten.

¶¶¶¶We'd post all our repairs on the ford explorers hopefully, this week.
The link to that thread would be incorporated into our comments.

@Gazzuzz. I halfway, agree with you. What you've just explained is a plus, if you're ordering from the USA, or any online company.

That you can also do with Carfax.
Can you always be specific on what points of the article you're always responding to, so that others can be more enlightened?

Are you saying if you're buying a used engines e from the automotive market in a place like Ladipo in Lagos, you'd ask the engine seller for the Vin number and all that? If that's what you're saying, they won't take you serious. That means, you'd have to wait for ages to get through with them their.

¶¶¶I think I'd change the topic to: HOW TO BUY A USED ENGINE IN LADIPO, LAGOS.

PS: You can ask anyone on this platform, whose gone purchase engine in Ladipo before.

Wherever that engine comes from, whether Asia, Middle East, or North America, as far as its being containerised to Ladipo, Lagos, there's no other way you can ascertain the condition of that engine, except following some of the methods I have highlighted, and if possible, using a compression tester too.

OK. Nice feedback. We'd look for time to send our responses on autos someday.
@Gazzuzz. I think you're terribly mistaken in your analysis.

You mustn't give me a thumps up, if I don't respond on the threads you've talked about. I
don't think I need such a score from you. If the time permits, I'd respond to stuff I see, or better still, you could kindly just send me any link of car issues you think I should respond on.

¶¶¶¶¶
PS: Responding to such threads, does not necessarily mean you're competent. In some instances it could show some sort of competency. But don't always assume some kinda response on such threads, are some form of approval rating.¶¶¶¶¶¶

¶¶¶¶
Here's a scenario. You're in a class, with some dude, and each time the lecturer asks a ?, you're always the guy that answers the every of the s. In that instance, in the class, you might be tempted to make people believe that its in the answering of the lecturers questions, that shows that you're such a brilliant guy, and all of your dudes are dullards. When examination comes, you might(probability) pass the exam. But when the results of the exam finally comes out, you might say, "oboy, na me go pass the exam". You'd discover that those dudes in class you called dullards, outperformed you. ¶¶¶¶¶


As regards the wire mesh catalytic converter thing, I think you still ha e some problems deciphering in details what was done there.

######You can still just reread that thread.
The Ford Explorer 2004 V8 has being fixed some three months ago. I would definitely write on the cause effect of what really caused that engine to SEIZE, and perhaps, proffer some recommendations.########

The 149..blablabla thing. That, you already know wasn't deliberate. That was supposed to be F, and not C degrees. Except maybe you wanna say, you're a perfect human being. But for me, if there's a mistake in that article, would accept and make corrections.

My responses on that issues isn't ....as you might be insinuating.

Responding for two days? This in my view is ridiculous. I don't think I need to respond to that. But I think it would be cool you know it took those days you alleged.

Want to know the reason for the "two" days you've alleged? ITS SIMPLY BECAUSE THERE WASN'T POWER.

Oga. I don't want 1/2 bread o! Prefer full bread abeg o!

@Gazzuzz. You de funny o! I'm both o! Engineer, not a mechanic*

@kjnwancaro. Hehehe! You don bring diversionary tactics here o! Emmmm, abeg. Y you say so na, no vex? I hope no b dis coolant temperature thing, and salesmanship o!

@Lejuen3. smh! Hehehe.

INTRODUCTION
I have decided to pen this short piece of Info about buying used engines, in order to intimate other car users what to look out for, and how to go about it.

Engines are the "hearts" of cars. Without them, even if you've got a nice, new car, I'd say, "you've got a scrap", that could fetch you some bucks, if its taken to a smelter for its iron, and other components.

But come to imagine this: you've got a car that you're currently using, and due to some problems, the engine has just suffered some kinda SEIZURE, and if you've got the cash, I mean, hard cash, you'd preferred buying a NEW BRAND engine.
But maybe due to some needs competing for your resources, you've decided to buy a used engine.


HAVE THESE INFORMATION HANDY. THEY'D HELP.

1. GIVE RIGHT ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS.
This is very important, because, for instance, if you've a 3.3L 3MZ-FE 05 sienna engine, and you'd want an engine for that ride, YOU'VE GOT TO BE SPECIFIC ABOUT YOUR DEMANDS(SPECIFICATIONS).
Not specifying correctly, would cost you much in terms of resources (money, time, etc).

For instance, some vehicles have a VVTi incorporated on their camshaft, while others don't. These are technical issues that your mechanic would be able to sort out when placing orders.

If you have no idea about your engine specification, you can source that online, your mechanic, or a dealership.

2. LOOK FOR THE MARKET.
¶Looking for the markets for used engines, are almost everywhere. You could actually order for almost everything you need online these days(check out eBay, etc).

The disadvantage of ordering used engines is that the state of the engine isn't known (history), and if there are issues, the cost of returning back to the country of purchase, would almost double the purchase price.

Buying such engines would be a 50/50 thing.
You've got to have a reliable company to ship it down to wherever you're.
¶Sourcing it from junkyards, and other places.
In the USA, and other European countries, you have a lot of registered and regulated junkyards where used car parts are sold.

In Nigeria, Ladipo, located in Lagos state, has being the foremost spare parts market in the country. Customers from neighboring countries, transact businesses daily worth billions of naira(and dollars too).

3. MAKE THE TRIP. As a customer that wants the best for your car, you've got to make the trip to the market, say, to Lagos, a day before you actually get to the market, if you're coming from outside Lagos state. That would keep you in a better mental orientation, during your MARKET SURVEYS.

If this part of the purchase would be hectic to you, its always advisable to assign the task to your mechanic, or a trusted third party.

MARKET SURVEYS, involves going round sections where such engines are sold; inquiring and having physical inspections of them from the clients.

¶¶¶¶¶
I'd use the Ladipo market as a case study.
***Open your eyes well!!! if you're in that market for such purchase.****

The guys that operate there are PERFECTLY SMART PEOPLE!

Here's what you encounter:

∆. Warehouse business people. They have what you might Br looking for. Their engines/gearboxes are very cheap, as compared to the retail guys.

You could actually purchase used engine/gearboxes their cheaper, but the "dangerous" thing there is that you'd never be given a GUARANTEE. Any happens as you buy an engine, after you have mounted it in your car, you are OYO.

Anything you buy there aren't rested
What the importer is interested in is to get his/her money and zoom.

∆. Retail business people. These guys buy almost all the used engines in bulk. They pain less, and gain tremendously. They bear all the risks, that the importer isn't willing to bear, and the retailer would often transfer some bit of that risks to you the buyer too.

The advantage you have with these guys buying engines and other accessories is that they've already tested some of the engines.

They can also help you engage the services of trolley pushers; and even people that can help bench test the engine before purchase. Notice, that would cost you some money to bench test a used engine.

4. DON'T GO WITH CASH. Always use your ATM, or have facility for online funds transfer.
Beware impostors.(people who in that market's jargon, are called "baranda". They would gather round about you like pests, and tell you we've got what you're looking for. If you aren't careful, your purse would go missing, or at the end of the day, you'd be stressed up, and may even buy a bad engine.

WHAT DO YOU LOOK OUT FOR WHEN BUYING A USED ENGINE-CHECKLIST
These are some of the checklists I have personally implemented while inspecting used engines for a client recently from Abuja on this platform.

1. Rotate the engine.
Before making any payments, endure that the engine is turned, 360°, and not 180°. This would enable you determine if the engine's internal components like crankshaft, camshafts, etc are in good condition.

In some situations, engines that have had engine damages would not easily turn. That's a red line for the purchase.

2. Compare the engine's specification with the engines being inspected at the market.

Check the engine wiring harnesses, and sensors for any differentiations.

3. If its a V configured engine, remove a spark plug, from each of the banks, and inspect them.
Spark plugs tells you a lot more about an engines internal state.

If it's a 4cylinder engine, same thing applies.
*oil fouled plugs tells you the piston oil rings are weak, and engine would smoke when its used, or loss some compression pressures.

*whitish cake kind of deposits on plugs, indicates signs engine must have undergone excess heat and overheating

4. Inspect the sump(bottom plate) for any structural damage(I.e if broken, don't buy such an engine).

Shine your eyes well!!! o! There are Nigerian used engines that are being sold as what we in Nigeria, call, "direct Tokunbo".

NB: There isn't a perfect way to know if an engine is perfect, unless its ripped apart, and internal components inspected.
No parts Saler would allow that.

5. Open the oil fill cap, and flash through it with touch light. That gives you some view about the condition of the valve train in the cylinder head.

6. Loosened the oil filter/sump bolt, to check the nature of engine oil. If milky, you've got an overheated engine. Run away from it.

Darkened, and gunk filled interior suggests a poorly maintained engine, while a clear golden colour, depicts a nicely maintained engine.


CONCLUSION
Buying used engines, has got some technicalities and tricks involved.
It would be economically wise, to always have the correct engine specifications and the skills needed, before buying an engine.

It is better to engage the services of a professional to inspect an engine, than going it alone.

A stitch in time, saves nine(pls o! na my own saying b DAT o).



PS: Pictures in the figures below were taken during an engine inspections at the popular Ladipo market in Lagos, Nigeria



Regards,
Joseph
DW Nig Ltd
Lagos, Nigeria
08066643532(call/WhatsApp)

@kingreign. E fit b "true" o! So far one can defend all what's written na. Anyhow you see am, just take am. How work today na?

@honmusa. No wahala. Would do.

Just saw this link now, thought to post it here. Maybe it would help.

Check it out. What do you infer from it?

https://www.quora.com/What-is-the-normal-operating-temperature-for-the-coolant-in-cars

@honmusa. I do understand what you're saying. That temperature was the freeze frame data when the fault usually comes up. Are you saying its not possible for problems like that or any other to occur at that temperature?
Fix the fault, checked for any codes related to the misfire problem. If there was any, we check the FFD again for what parameters came up.

***about Toyota coolant on its way to overheating, I disagree.

Check out the Gazzuzz asked: What is the normal operating temp of a running engine (pressurized system)?

Or, maybe TRYGO is getting your question wrong? Can you decipher what he meant, @honmusa, just in case?

@honmusa. What sort of response do you want? Can you give me a preview, or sample of f the kind of response you want?
Haba mallam. We don't work that way na. We do the working, and do the writing do. If you have concerns on the pattern of response(s) you'd want, just stick it out!

First and foremost, I think you guys did a nice job pointing out those technical typos.

@honmusa. Fahrenheit, and not degree Celsius.

So, converting the 149F>65° approx.

@Iyke turns. If an engine operates at that range, the engine e would "fry" like someone just commented.

@Gazzuzz. The normal operating temperature of an engine, is(should) be: 100°C

@

@diportivo. No tyre wasn't depleted.
1st pic showing CEL ON was showing the car at idle speed, with the problem.
You can see that from the Rpm reading.
Codes related to the PRI/sec ignition coil, and oxygen sensor was already recorded in the ECU.

2nd pic. Showed the car driven after the job was completed. The CEL ON you complained about, was related to the oxygen sensor, and not the misfire that was experienced.
TPMS was as a result of the rear RHS tire being under pressurised.

Pictures 1+2, was for comparison purposes. Pre-and-post.


@honmusa. I think this is also MORE challenging. If you're a technically inclined person, I bet, this might be less challenging to you. But to some folks here, its cool.

If you have some suggested topics,.or problems you're currently facing, I'd be glad to face such a challenge here on this platform, or physically, at the shop.
I don't just write stuffs here, I practically do the job.
I'd be glad if you point out some procedural flaws here. I'd react to them immediately.
Well, for the salesmanship job, I've being found that for years, and that's the same thing that applies here on this platform now: DOING A SALESMAN'S JOB via stuffs like this.

@Kingreign. Observation(s) noted.

@kingreign. Hmmm. You see this as "daily norm" for you as daily? Well, I don't see anything that simple o!

This is how I work:
*I don't assumed to have known a job, no matter how simple it is. I assume I don't even know it. That way, I acquire more knowledge and experience from such jobs.**

*At the end of the day, I sit down, prepare some kind of writeup, tailored to:

∆∆∆∆EVERYONE WHOSE IN THE AUTOMOTIVE CHAIN∆∆∆∆

Lots of folks here would even prefer if its possible, for them to do most of the simple jobs you guys have to do on their cars. But we all know it isn't possible. There are jobs, or simple stuffs a car owner, whose good with simple tools can do. I think I prefer going into details like these, to help people out.

¶¶¶¶I don't work on the engine brands/capacity E90 M3 V8 or S600, you've mentioned(Benz)¶¶¶¶.

I work on other brands, asides the one you've mentioned.

But it would behoove you to note that almost all misfires from any engine brands, are caused by all of what I have mentioned, or some other ones I haven't mentioned here.

¶¶¶For me, this writeup is part of how I work(my trademark™)¶¶¶

¶¶I'm not here competing with anyone.¶¶¶

@40ng! Hey, how you doing?! Thanks a lot, though.

INTRODUCTION
This is some sort of exaggeration though. No matter what he does every now and then, the engine just keeps firing. Oops! I meant to say, engine misfiring.

So, what does engine misfiring really mean?
It just simply means a distortion in a car's fuel/air mix ratios, which would result in either a lean or rich condition.

MISFIRES CAN RESULT FROM ANY OF;
¶ Ignition system. They are systems responsible for spark ignition in petrol based engines(S.I).

¶ Related parts include ignition coils, spark plugs, crankshaft position sensors and ignition wires.

¶ Mechanical system. Engine compression problems, resulting from excessively worn engine compression rings; carbon fouled or faulty throttle position assembly, and a stuck closed EGR system.

¶ Fuel related systems. Clogged, or failed fuel pumps, injection nozzles, fuel filters (internal and/or external out a fuel tank), are some of the major causes of engine misfires.

SOME SIGNS OF ENGINE MISFIRES
¶ Excess fuel consumption. In some occasions, this would be noticed by black smoke from the exhaust.

¶ Engine misfires. Engine vibrates, and attempts to stall when idling or in traffic.

Related trouble codes for a misfiring engine are P0300…..P030nth.
Where n=1, 2 ….n.

EFFECTS OF MISFIRES
Ignoring a misfiring engine, could lead to catastrophic engine damage, and a financial strain on your pocket.

¶ Destroys catalytic converters
¶ Increased petrol cost/consumptions


CONCLUSION
Engine misfires, do not suddenly occur without prior warning(s). They occur gradually, until it gets to a state where it becomes significant; with its attendant symptoms.
Some symptoms might be intermittent, which takes time to detect the problem.

The key to solving problems like these is to employ patience in your troubleshooting strategy.




Regards,
Joseph
DW Nig Ltd,
Lagos
08066643532(WhatsApp/call)










CASE STUDY

VEHICLE DETAILS

Vehicle model: 2005

Vehicle type: Sienna; FWD

Transmission type: Automatic

Engine capacity/displacement: 3.3L

Engine configuration: V6


CUSTOMER’S COMPLAINT:

Here’s an excerpt.
Hey, Joe. How you doing?
I have being having some problems with my car recently.

Here are the symptoms I have observed:

¶ Immediately the engine is started, it immediately stalls when the AC system is ON, or OFF. In some other occasions, it doesn’t stall, but instead, vibrates, and the tachometer (RPM meter) suddenly fluctuates.

¶ Appearance of CHECK ENGINE and MAINTENANCE REQUIRED lights on the dashboard.

¶ Loss of power. You drive the car; it feels like its being held down by some sort of force, despite flooring the accelerator pedal.

¶ Poor fuel economy (excessive fuel consumption). Before now, the fuel economy has being good, driving from Ajah to Osodi. But right now, it's terribly poor.


THE FIX!

1. Troubleshooting. First and foremost, the car was brought to the workshop, and a troubleshooting chart prepared.

WE BEGAN SIMULATING THE CLIENT’S COMPLAINTS, lest we exceed the customer’s terms of reference (TOR).

2. Scanned the car for trouble codes, and the following codes were obtained:
P0354: Ignition coil D Pri/Sec circuit
P0037: HO2S heater control/circuit low Bank 1sensor2.

***Parameters at which these faults were always being triggered at, ETC 149 degree Celsius, and RPM 791rpm (Freeze frame data obtained).****

3. The check engine light was erased immediately with a scan tool. 2(a) and 2(b) above, has given an indication of the source of the misfiring, which has limited the fault to the ignition system. This has narrowed down our troubleshooting to only the ignition system.

****Finding the culprit ignition system(s): Ignition tests***

∆ Carried out visual inspections of the ignition systems, specifically the ignition coils, and its connectors.

∆ Started the engine, and allowed to run for some minutes (at 149 degree Celsius).

∆ Bank 2 ignition coil pack connectors unplugged, to determine which of them was failing, or had already failed.

Notice as you remove any of the coil connectors, the engine tends to stall. When fixed back, engine rpm stabilizes immediately.

NB
*Bank 2: cylinder head close to the radiator system.

*bank 1: cylinder facing the firewall, or cylinder opposite the radiator system.

∆ Because of the tedious tasks involved in accessing and removing the rear bank(bank 1) ignition coils and spark plugs, all the ignition coils and spark plugs were interchanged with those of bank 2. Doing this, saved much time.

∆ Repeated test carried out in (a), with, ignition coil packs interchanged from bank 1 to bank 2.

∆ Started the engine, immediately a check engine light appeared on the dashboard.

∆ Scanned for trouble code(s), and obtained P0354, on bank 2.

∆Cleared the code; removed all coil packs on bank 2, cylinder 4; interchanged them on the same bank, by taking ignition coil pack 4, to ignition coil pack 6.

∆ Started engine, immediately the check engine light came up, and realized engine was still misfiring.

∆ Scanned for trouble codes and got P0356, which meant the misfiring had being transferred to cylinder, number 6(F).

∆To get a definite conclusion on what the problem was, the coil was replaced with a known good one, and immediately the check engine light left, and the misfires stopped.

∆Completed a drive cycle at the parameters which fault was recorded to see if the FIX was perfect.

Returned from the test drive, without any problems.

Misfires gone; the only code retrieved from the ECU was related to the oxygen sensor.



PS:

¶ Jobs like this, offers a better opportunity to replace spark plugs, or service the car’s fuel injection system, because of the tedious nature getting access to them.

¶ Always use recommended spark plugs, or an iridium or platinum tipped one.

¶ Ignition coil pack connectors and/or wiring harness are sometimes the problems faced by such engines.

¶ Ensure power, and signal tests are performed on ignition coil harness using a digital meter before blaming a misfire on an ignition coil pack.

¶ Remember, the cost of coil on pack ignition coils are expensive.

For this car, #1 of such coils costs, N7000.

@Wealthyone. Perfectly, without any problems.
This is how you'd go about it.

1. drain all water from the cooling system(especially the radiator, through the drain port). Some engine e blocks, have got drain bolt to take care of this. If there aren't any provisions for that on either the radiator or block, disconnect the lower radiator hose.

2. Couple the drain. bolt(s) back after it has totally drained.

3. Use genuine radiator coolants. You can use ABRO coolants, or the one recommended by the car's manufacturer. Remember, all these depends on your pocket. OEM coolants are very expensive.

4. Bleed the system of air bubbles, to prevent insufficient circulation of the coolants.
This is mostly applicable in some American, and German cars.
Without bleeding the car of air, you have invited overheating to the system already.


Hope this helps you tremendous you brother!

@Papiikush. I think its a nice thing for such information. You need a lot of information to keep yourself abreast of what's happening around you, and if for instance you've got a car, that may even save you some bucks.
Don't you think so?
Just choose the ones you want, and filter the contents, and apply the remnants to your peculiar situation. isn't that cool, brother?

@tripoli007. Coolants does tremendous amount of work, keeping your engine operating optimally, if for instance, the thermal limit of the water you've being using has being exceeded, the radiator coolant, with its patented additives, fills up that void of thermal inefficiencies of waters. Used of coolants, also prevents your cooling system from corrosion.

Here are some links of articles I've written on this platform that might be of help.

https://www.nairaland.com/3500161/disastrous-impacts-overheating


With time, tour use of water would develop into sludge, responsible for cooling system failures(water pumps, radiator system, etc).

@badgers14. Coolant isn't a gas. Coolant is a fluid(liquid). Its got additives in it, used to compensate for the thermal inefficiencies experienced by water when used in an engine.

You can use water as a coolant temporarily, when you're hold up in such a dangerous area. It does no harm to the car. What you'd want is to get that car out of there as soon as possible. If you've got cash, you can stock coolant in the truck. But for me, it doesn't make sense, looking for a radiator coolant in such an area.

@quentin06. You're right, but also on other major interstate expressways.

@Livefreeordieha. Very correct o! That was the experience I had yesterday.

@Mementoes. Noted sir! Would appreciate if you could point out some of those jargons I've got in the text.

@princemillla. Hahaha! Those guys are "Samaritans"!, brother. It pays somehow to know the basics of your car. What you think? I'm serious.

@awoo47. No wahala o! We're in a democratic platform here, and definitely, I should expect some kinda negative backlash here. But I think this post is making an impact already.

@Chiboy12. Monday?! Emmmm, today, is still MONDAY??

@diportivo. Same methodology applies to all sir!

INTRODUCTION
Don't assume because you've got a brand new car(or a used one), that it's susceptible to failure.

No one prays for his or her car to suddenly bread down on such highways.

It's not that easy dealing or handling mechanics along any major expressway, especially that of Lagos-Ibadan.

Those guys are known for their "craftiness" in terms of automotive repairs. Some, let me not lie to you guys, are competent in their dealings with potential customers, that might come their way.

Anyone that has ever driven through that road, would realise how silent, and dangerous it is, especially if you've ever had your car broken down on that road.

In such a situation, you'd realised that those "good Samaritans", would, in collaboration with those rickety towing trucks, surface, and immediately commence diagnosis, without your permission.

At that point, you already don't have any options left for you.

If you ever get into such a nightmare, this is what you should do.

1. Your safety is of paramount importance here.
Secure all your belongings, and if possible, properly park the car(off the expressway).

2. Calm down, and if you're tech savvy with technical stuffs, you could immediately commence diagnosis. But if you can't, ask any of the " good Samaritans ", to inspect/diagnosis the problem.

These guys are cunning in their dealings. There'd be a lot of trial and errors on display(oga , e be like say na dis, or that).

The towing trucks would instantly appear from nowhere, and want to come assist you. Their specific assistant would be to cone over and ask for the vehicle to be towed to the neatest mechanic workshop, or to Lagos.

When the tow man suggest a tow, tell them you'd want to consult with your mechanic, or the " good Samaritan ", with you.

3. Monitor the mechanics. This is where the crux of the matter is. Your car, might have just developed a minor mechanical/electrical fault. But if you aren't monitoring every bit of what the mechanics are doing, that minor fault would be amplified to a major one(costing you time, money, in the replacement of unnecessary parts).

4. Return to your mechanic. After the " Samaritan mechanics " have fixed your car, whether permanently, or temporarily, I'd expect you to have your car inspected by your trusted mechanic, to make corrections where necessary. That would save you future problems.

MAJOR CHECKLISTS BEFORE TRAVELING

1. Do an oil change, if it's due, or top of engine oil, if the quality of the oil is still intact.
This would reduce the risk of engine damage, and prolong the engine.

Have the oil maintenance light reset, if its a modern car. You guys should know what I mean by a modern car. I mean cars manufactured from 2005-present. Example is Venza'10, with its maintenance required light.

2. Ensure all tyre pressures are gauged to the standard pressures.
An under pressurised tyre, is a safety related issue. A tyre that isn't properly inflated, would increase more load on the engine, and a proportional poor fuel economy.

While an overinflated tyre, also posses a safety risk in the sense that an over inflated tyre would experience tremendous increased temperature, as a result of its rolling resistance with the ground, and the impact of environmental temperature. These factors, for instance, can result in tyre bursts because of lack of enough space for the temperature/pressure expansion.

3. Replace your tyres, if they are worn. Excessively worn tyres would cause a whole lot if driveability issues.

4. Ensure radiator coolant is at the proper level. Radiator coolants below the LOW level, is a panacea for overheating.
If it's possible, always have a gallon of water in the trunk of your car. That would serve in times of overheating, where you'd need some water to top off the radiator.

5. Be cautious of where you fuel you fuel up your car. Some cars are known to have developed

6. Check your spare tyre for damage, or under inflation. That would safe you the stress of looking for tyres, or even trying to buy a jack and wheel spanner. It should be noted that some car owners don't see the benefits of having a functional spare tyre, wheel spanner and jack in their car.

7. Inspect all brake pads/brake shoes for wear. Replace any if worn. Do not manage worn brake pads. The dangers of managing a worn brake pads, outweighs it's management.

CONCLUSION
Cars, like human beings, can breakdown at anytime, despite how religiously you've being maintaining that car.
If the car finally breaks down on such roads, it could be temporarily, or permanently fixed, depending on your response and the competencies of the "good Samaritans" coming your way.



Regards,
Igono Joseph Okeme
DW Nig Ltd
08066643532(WhatsApp/call)

PS:
¶Always determine from the start, if the car needs to be towed, or driven to the mechanic's workshop for repairs.

No one prays for his or her car to suddenly bread down on highways.

¶Negotiate the cost of repairs with them before the commencement of work. If you don't do that, you'd have to at the end of the repairs, have yourself to blame.

¶Be extremely careful when buying automotive fluids on the expressway, especially, where you have hawkers of diesel fuel on the roads. Such places, are breeding grounds for substandard fluids, such as transmission fluids, engine oils, etc. Not minding the brand labels affixed to the fluid containers, most of them are contaminated and adulterated with impurities and diesel fuel.
So, the next time you buy any fluids from such roadside spare part shops, PERCEIVE the ODOUR of the fluid. If it smells, somewhat like diesel fuel, return it, or don't use it at all.

@enyi1 and @captianking. Well, guys I just thought the information provided therein would help a whole lot if folks out there.

Just imagine someone's car's broken down, and immediately its being rescued by a towing truck, you are, if lucky, presented with the bill for a damaged transmission system.

INTRODUCTION
Its a common sight to see broken down vehicles on some of our major and minor roads.

These vehicles are broken down, due to myriads of problems, ranging from mechanical, and/or electrical related problems.

Such broken down vehicles pose significant threats to motorists, and the vehicle owner(s), if they aren't removed from the roads (right of way). Not only has it posed such threats, but has also put the owner of the car in to a helpless situation.

Just imagine for instance, on the Lagos Third Mainland, you're driving your brand new ....type of car, and suddenly, on your way back to the Mainland, the car suddenly broke down.

Here's the dilemma. You've got lots of traffic gridlocks on the opposite lane of the bride that leads motorists back to the mainland, from the island. Your broken down car now causes unnecessary traffic congestion on that section of the road. If you're not comported, you'd be confused, and those rickety towing vans that patrol Oworonshoki, or Osborne, suddenly appears without you putting a distress call to them.

The next option for you is to bargain how much the rescue truck is going to tow it to your house, or to a nearest auto shop.

But towing your car, comes with a huge risk, if you, or the towing company isn't familiar with the car's transmission system.

HOW DO YOU NOW TOW YOUR CAR TO A DESIGNATED DESTINATION?
There are different ways of towing a vehicle. It ranges from using a flatbed truck, dolly towing, etc.

The methods used to tow a vehicle, would now depend on the transmission system type, FWD(front wheel drive), 4WD(four wheel drive), or RWD(rear wheel drive).


TOWING PROCEDURES
1. Standard automatic transmission type(CVTs, eCVT, Dual clutch systems, etc).

¶FWD. This is the type of vehicle, in which its only the FRONT wheels that drives the car.

The rear wheels just acts as the follower(driven).
*In towing a front ended wheeled drive vehicle, ensure that the automatic transmission is disengaged from the park position to the neutral position.

Note that the engaging the transmission from park to neutral can only be achieved two ways:

*∆Ignition ON. Engaging to neutral is easily achieved.
*∆Ignition OFF. If ignition is faulty as a result if an accident, or some sort of electrical problems, it would be difficult for the trans to be disengaged from park, P, to the neutral position, N.
Here's what you'd do.
In some Asian made cars like Toyota, Honda, and Nissan, just close to the gear knob, you've got a SHIFT LOCK. That enables you, with the aid of the tip of a pin, to unlock the transmission from the P position .

*The rescue truck, attaches the towing chain, and ensures the FRONT ENDS of the car is lifted off the ground/road.

*Release all brakes(including the emergency brake, etc).

*Tow the car to the nearest auto shop.

¶¶¶¶FWD = Front wheels lifted off the ground¶¶¶


¶4WD. In this system, the car can either be driven in FWD, or 4WD mode. This somewhat depends on the terrains in question.

The 4WD mode us usually engaged, on off road conditions, where there's the probability of the wheels being stuck in mud, or some kind of ditch.

So, in towing this kind of vehicle, its best to use a flatbed truck(an example is AA rescue trucks in Lagos Island, Nigeria). This kind of rescue, protects a car's transmission system 100%.

Another alternative is to disengage the 4WD mode to either neutral, or FWD mode. In this mode, the vehicle can be safely towed, with the front wheels off the ground, and the rear wheels left on the ground.


¶¶¶¶4WD towing = disengage 4WD to 2WD; and lift front wheels off the ground. ¶¶¶

¶Rear wheel drive. This kind of system derives it's power from the engine/transmission(whether manual of automatic) via a propeller shaft.
In towing such a vehicle, it is safer to lift the rear wheels off the ground. This goes a long wat in protecting the trans axles. An example of thus kind of towing is Peugeot 504, etc.

¶Hybrid cars. Almost all hybrid cars employ a CVT transmission system. Because of the complex nature of the internal components of such a system, it is advisable to tow such transmissions with their front ends lifted off the ground.


ANY RISK ASSOCIATED WITH TOWING AN AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION CAR?
Yes, there are tremendous risks attached to it.
The risks ranges from damaging the transmission system, and even the engine, at some point in time.

THIS IS HOW THE TRANSMISSION IS DAMAGED
Normally when a transmission system is engaged, the transmission pump supplies hydraulic pressure(fluids) to the various system of mesh gears, and actuators in the system.

Its a known fact that where there are contacts between gears, this leads to accelerated wear and tear on the gear trains, in the absence of lubrication. This wear and tear, is actually what happens to your automatic transmission system, when the vehicle is towed a long-distance.

Towing a vehicle with the transmission system in drive, tends to accelerate tear and wear of the gear drive, as at the moment the vehicle is being towed, the transmission pump isn't supplying any fluid pressure to the gear drives to reduce friction, and overheating.



CONCLUSION
No one can predict when a car would ever breakdown on the road, especially areas congregated by thugs, etc. But getting a towing truck that understands how to tow your kind of vehicle is a challenge.
This piece, should arm you with the information you'd required, in the event of a breakdown.
You wouldn't want to tow your car, and at the end, you're left with a huge bill(of buying a transmission system).



Regards,
Joseph
08066643532(WhatsApp/calls)
DW Nig Ltd

@Gazzuzz. No vex. I'm not being selfish na. I share a lot here, too. But not to worry. Would try checking out the car talk issues, and post my comments also.

Those stuffs I "dump" are helpful to lots of people that have come across.
Depends on what you consider the objectives of my threads to be.

There ate lots of KPI I look out for, to know those long threads are helpful to a lot of folks out there.

INTRODUCTION
Though its nothing new these days to see lots of cars on our roads, with their odometer readings very low(tempered with); despite their acclaimed model year(s).
Some if such vehicles, are as good as dead boxes.

I'm so sorry, if I hurt you by the use of my words.
People buy "high mileage" cars, thinking they've gotten a good buy(low mileage one).

Car dealers would never reveal to you, if a car's odometer readings are real, or not.

You know why? They're in it for the CASH brother. Lower mileage cars, cost a huge fortune. So, if its possible for anyone to bug into a car's odometer reading, even for some fee, they just going to do it.


HOW DO YOU KNOW YOUR CAR'S ODOMETER HAS BEEN BUGGED?

1. Minor scratches. You'd notice scratches on the dashboard, speedometer clear cover, etc.

In some other instances, you'd get to realize that there are finger marks on the internals of the clear cover. That's a sign of something is fishy concerning the odometer.

2. Dealer refusal to disclose VIN. A car's VIN, is simply the car's vehicle identification number.

The VIN, discloses a whole lot about the car's model year, location if manufacture, transmission type, etc.

Data gotten from a VIN search, can be used to reveal the odometer reading of a car, from any state it was registered.

Companies such as Carfax, and Auto check, are in the forefront of providing such information, as far as the USA is concerned.
Such services are provided on the payment of a little fee.

If for instance a request was made by you asking a car dealer to provide you the VIN of your dream car, and he refuses, that's a red flag for you to know the odometer of the car might have being rolled back.

Run with your money o!

3. Disparity in the actual odometer reading from that on the service maintenance records.

Any alterations noticed on the maintenance records of the car, is a clear sign that the actual odometer on the dashboard has being bugged.

This shows that the odometer reading has some issues, and someone, is trying to Gide something. Notice, I said someone. I didn't say, you, or the dealership.

4. Check every service reminder stickers placed on the driver door side.

If the car you want to buy is from the USA, it should have it's maintenance reminder stickers affixed on either the driver side door frame, or on the windscreen.

Comparing the odometer readings on the stickers, and the actual odometer reading on the car, should be able to tell you if its being rolled back.

5. Checking the interiors of the car. In this section, the steering wheels, brake pedals are checked for excessive wears.

Check for signs of wear in areas like the steering wheel, arm rests, gear knobs, and also the pedals. You should also note that if any of those items looks brand new, as if it had been replaced recently, then it may indicate an attempt to hide the vehicle's real age.

6. Hire a mechanic to inspect the car. He should look for signs of tampering of any of the accessories in the interiors of the car.

On leather made seats, check for cracks on them. If you've got a some cracks, that would reveal the level the car has being used.

A 10year old car, can easily be checked for odometer manipulations, if they show signs of excessive use.

7. Inspect underneath the carpets. Cars that their odometer readings doesn't correspond with their interior appearance, is a red line, never to cross.



CONCLUSIONS
Though it might be difficult sometimes to ascertain whether a car's odometer reading has being tempered with.

Adhering to any, or all of the above, would definitely reduce some of the odometer reading frauds that's being perpetuated by car dealers, and save you, the end user of such used cars, some BUCKS.

¶Even if this piece of information in this article provides some clues to fraudulent odometer fraudster, I bet you, it would be highly unprofitable for them to manipulate some of the interior auxiliaries. ¶




Regards,
Joseph
08066643532(call/WhatsApp)

@dottore. Exactly. In the USA, that can even result in the closer of an auto shop, and the payment of heavy fines.

@givemedatin. Hmmm, nawao! How's work going brother!? Hope you are cool?

@givemedatin. Men, you tried o! Dropping even my tribal name.

@highestheight. Thanks a thousand.