₦airaland Forum

INTRODUCTION
I have often heard people say, the digital meter on the instrument panel, can never be rolled back. The myth had been that its only the analogue digital mileages that could be adjusted.

These days, there are tools available, especially online in China, that can be used to carry out such a "crime".

In the developed world, rolling a car's mileage backwards different from it's present or true readings, is a terrible crime. It could an auto shop, millions of dollars in lawsuits, and a jail term also. But in the third world, there aren't regulations or laws, prohibiting such practices.

Dealerships, or individuals, could easily manipulate a car's true mileage readings just for the financial benefits that would accrue them.

WHY DO PEOPLE ROLL-BACK A CAR'S MILEAGE?

*Because of greed. It's a commonly held norm that used cars with lower mileages are more expensive than ones with higher mileages. That would be a discussion for some other time.

*Following an accident, a car's dashboard, including the speedometer could be damaged, requiring a replacement.

People, I mean anyone trying to sake a car somewhere, can hire the services of a repair shop to do such adjustments.
Carrying out such adjustments does not reveal the actual mileage of the car, but conceals it.

HOW ARE MILEAGES ROLLED BACK?

1. Removing the speedometer(higher mileage), and replacing it with a lesser mileage from a donor vehicle.

In this method, an accidental car, with a lower mileage is transplanted into the car with a higher mileage. This does not erase the mileage of the acceptor vehicle, but instead, conceals it. That's what SOME car dealers and individuals do.

For instance, if your car's mileage reads 300,437miles, and as a dealer, you'd want to sake that car to an unsuspecting client, what he only needs to do is to get a donor vehicle with a lower mileage of say, 57,122miles, and transfers it to the acceptor vehicle. The vehicle would now read, 57,122mikes, instead if the original 300,437miles.

Note, this technique is applicable to digital speedometer types, and not the analogue type.

2. Memory chip transplant. Its a smart technique, that requires complex skills in electronics.

This technique involves dismantling the speedometer unit completely as seen in the photos below. This exposes the electronic circuitry of the circuit board, where the memory chip is located.

The memory chip is what stores all the distances travelled through out the lifespan of the vehicle.

Special specialized equipment are required to perfect a job like this.
Applicable to digital speedometers.

3. Readjusting an analogue mileage display(odometer).
Analogue ones are a little bit difficult to adjust.
The mileages are removed and adjusted without using specialized equipment.

4. Jack up rear method. In this method, the rear wheels are jacked up, and properly positioned on a safety stands. The wheels are then turned in a reversed manner, to reset the odometer reading to a much lesser one.
This method is applicable only to analogue odometers.

5. Odometer switch method. A switch is incorporated into an odometer current feed circuit, offering a car owner to switch off and on the odometer readings, anytime he/she desires.

Let's take for instance, a driver wants to achieve say, an odometer reading of 79,000miles, and doesn't want to go through the methods explained above.

The driver, with aid of the odometer reading control switch, would toggle off the reading, while driving the car, but would switch it on back, to check if the mileage has exceeded, or not.

This is a very complex kind of manipulation, and a tedious exercise.
You'd have to be vast in some sort of electronics.


I hope this short piece helps you guys understand more how your car's mileage readings are adjusted.



PS: Throughout this week, I'd be writing extensively on mileage (odometers).
Expect more insights in the coming days.


Regards,
Joseph
08066643532(call/WhatsApp)

INTRODUCTION
With the advancement of different kinds of security gadgets and apps all around us, it's quite easy(or even easier) for almost all of our conversations(can be bugged), actions, and movements to be tracked. Even while you're in your car, home, anywhere. There's just no safe place any longer.

Are you worried you're being tracked, or monitored? You notice the same car, or person(s) always anywhere you go?

Your suspicious wife(husband), security agents, and even your employer, can track or bug even your car.

HOW DOES SOME OF THE TRACKING DEVICES LOOK LIKE?

Some of them really look very small, that you'd think its just a coin. Others are in the shape of playing cards, and could be even bigger. But no one wants to use a bigger device to track your whereabouts.
The main objective is to monitor and track you, without much trace.



SIGNS YOU'RE CAR'S BEING TRACKED

*You see the same person, or car, wherever you are. For instance, if you're shopping in one of the shopping malls in your neighborhood, and you suddenly notice a car, or someone you've seen earlier on, at the same location with you. You've got to be suspicious somehow. Isn't it?

*Someone suddenly calls you on phone, and threatens to expose certain things about you, and even tells you exactly where your locations are(they can actually give your exact coordinates).


HOW TO FIND OUT IF YOUR CAR'S BEING MONITORED, OR TRACKED

Nowadays, GPS based tracking systems can be used to monitor, and track your whereabouts, without your knowledge.

These gadgets are usually mounted, or hidden in locations difficult to spot by you, the car owner.

CHECK THE FOLLOWING AREAS, IF YOU SUSPECT YOU'RE BEING MONITORED.

This job can be done by you, or your auto technician.

∆∆Doing it yourself, would require you to have a smart bright torchlight handy∆∆

1. EXTERIORS
Tracking gadgets can easily be attached to any part of an automobile, ranging from the bumpers, underneath, and even the glove vox, etc.

¶Bumpers. Bumpers have got hollow openings, in which GPS tracking devices could be attached to a car's chassis, with the front bumpers affording a proper concealment of the gadget.

Next time you visit an auto repair shop, ask the bumpers be inspected.

¶Underneath the car. Some of these gadgets, are in some cases, attached and hidden under the car.

*Tracking devices can be hidden and attached under the fuel tank, or on top of it, and wired to the power feed of the fuel pump.

*Some GPS based tracking systems are magnetic in nature, and could also be attached directly on the car main body frame.

*Tracking devices in the size of a pen, or a coin, could easily be concealed on a car's suspension system.

¶Wheel wells. Miniature GPS tracking systems can be hidden in your car's wheel wells. Systems attached this way, are meant to transmit your coordinates to a road based receiver system, that in turn, relays the signals to an online based decoding system, or a cell phone one.

You can check out the wheel wells of your car yourself, using a torchlight, or you do this by asking your mechanic to inspect it during a brake job.

¶Bonnet area. Though some of this tracking devices are heat prone, someone wanting to track your movements and activities could do that, by hiding the device behind the fuselages.

Whenever you see wire harnesses that are different from what's originally intended for your car, be suspicious of a hacking tools presence.


2. INTERIORS
There are a lot of available locations where a GPS tracking device can be concealed.
Unraveling it, would require patience to embark on such a mission yourself.

¶The glove box (pigeonhole) area, located at the passenger's location with lots of openings.
You could actually remove the glove box cover, and attach the device there, without the knowledge of the car owner.
Check for wiring harnesses that don't resemble the OEM wires in that location.

¶Under the steering wheel. I mean, the location under your steering wheel, has enormous volume of space there. anything can be concealed there.
When you look underneath that location, in some cases, the GPS tracking device would resemble a kind of RELAY used in the car's electrical circuitry.
Some of the tracking devices are also wrapped in cellophane, etc.

¶Under the seats. Check under your car seats, when you suspect something fishy.
Do not mistaken the presence of the seat control modules, located under some seats, as a tracking device installed to monitor you. Although, some of such devices are somewhat of that size.

¶Check all the car seats, for bulges and the likes. Any unnecessary swellings on the seats should be inspected.

¶Check car headrest. A tracking device can be hidden in the headrest cushions, with a small hole made in order for signal transmission from the car, to the receiver somewhere.

¶Under the car's rugs. Some GPS systems with tiny transmitter chips, could be hidden somewhere, under the car's rugs.

¶Check the cargo area. In some vehicles, the spare tires are kept underneath outside cargo area of the vehicle; while others are specially shaped, and kept inside the cargo area.
In either of the two locations, a GPS tracking device could be concealed easily.
Always check the spare tires, just in case there's a tracker tracking you.


IN SUMMARY
There are several locations and spots GPS tracking devices could be attached and concealed, to track your movements, and locations, real-time.
These gadgets aren't expensive perse, because anyone who means real business wanting to track your whereabouts, would go get them.
But with this piece of information, you can at least, reduce the risk of being tracked and monitored.
Sure! Everyone needs some form of privacy. Don't you think so?!

PS: If you're financially buoyant, you could get a GPS sweeper. What the sweeper does is that it tries to receive the signals being transmitted by the hidden tracker in your car. It receives this signal, and goes ahead to tell you where the tracker system has being concealed in your car without your knowledge.
Its expensive though, but it would eliminate the time consumed manually searching, and the cost of hiring an auto shop to do that job for you.



Regards,
Joseph
08066643532(call/WhatsApp)
Twitter: @dw_nig

@kingreign. Well, I don't see anything wrong with writing a "column". This is just a small write. Since the nairalander concerned hasn't complained, no wahala.
I think the person concerned was able to dig through and decipher what I meant.
The write, or response wasn't just meant for him alone, but for other persons that might be interested in being educated, as regards overheating, and the likes.

I LIKE BEING MORE DETAILED IN MY WRITE-UPS.
I DON'T JUST LIST POINTS OUT, BUT PREFER TO EXPLAIN MUCH MORE!
THAT'S JUST WHO " TRYGO" IS.


@gabito4luv. Thank God, for the quick fix. From your feedback, I think most of what we've written, was of help to you.
Keep stuffs like these coming.


@honmusa. Nawao for you o! This is the modus operandi of my job:

*get to the field, work on some cars.

*ask the customers exactly what the problems are

*get a troubleshooting tree process

*resolved issues are analyzed to determine cause of fault, and solutions proffered.

*gather such problems and solutions, then write on them on various platforms online.

NB: All what I write are a combination of years of experience fixing cars PERSONALLY, and employing online resources as well to buttress some of the posts I have on this platform.

I DON'T JUST WRITE, BUT I ACT THE WRITE-UPS.

ANY POSTS I HAVE ON THIS PLATFORM, I HAVE EXPERIENCED THEM ALL.


Appreciate you guys!

@kingreign. Well, I don't see anything wrong with writing a "column". This is just a small write. Since the nairalander concerned hasn't complained, no wahala.
I think the person concerned was able to dig through and decipher what I meant.
The write, or response wasn't just meant for him alone, but for other persons that might be interested in being educated, as regards overheating, and the likes.

I LIKE BEING MORE DETAILED, IN MY WRITE-UPS.
I DON'T JUST LIST POINTS OUT, BUT PREFER TO EXPLAIN MUCH MORE!
THAT'S JUST WHO " TRYGO" IS.

@gabito4luv. Thank God, for the quick fix. From your feedback, I think most of what we've written, was of help to you.
Keep stuffs like these coming.


@honmusa. Nawao for you o! This is the modus operandi of my job:

*get to the field, work on some cars.

*ask the customers exactly what the problems are

*get a troubleshooting tree process

*resolved issues are analyzed to determine cause of fault, and solutions proffered.

*gather such problems and solutions, then write on them on various platforms online.

NB: All what I write are a combination of years of experience fixing cars PERSONALLY, and employing online resources as well to buttress some of the posts I have on this platform.

I DON'T JUST WRITE, BUT I ACT THE WRITE-UPS.

ANY POSTS I HAVE ON THIS PLATFORM, I HAVE EXPERIENCED THEM ALL.


Appreciate you guys!

@lonelydora. Double, if after ascertaining that the single celled radiator didn't work.

@gabito4luv. Can you provide some historical fact about that problem? How it all started, etc?
That would help in my response to you.

A lot of factors can cause overheating, ranging from vacuum leaks, misfires, a failing or failed engine cooling system(water pump, radiator system, thermostat stuck closed, bad radiator fan, etc)

***But in the meantime, "replaced head gaskets, and H2O pump, and still same issue"? Suggests the remote and immediate cause of the problem hasn't being identified yet.***

***" Now gasket is burnt again"?. Suggests extreme overheating occurring on that engine.***

I would like to share this link with you about some of the causes of overheating I have written,

https://www.nairaland.com/modifypost?redirect=%2F3500161%2Fdisastrous-impacts-overheating%2351775939&post=51775939

in addition to the following points:

***At what engine condition does this overheating occur? idling, or while driving?
The T°C gauge exceeds the 1/2mark, and closes on to the RED line?(at least that's isn't President Obama's Syria's redline). Sorry for being political here.

***Have the car scanned for codes. Is there any check engine light displaying on the dashboard?

***Check if the engine fan is specifically working. In some cases I have experienced, the fan(s) might be functional, but if the revolutions of the engine fan is below specifications, it won't be able to blow in cool air from the atmosphere, and evacuate even the hot one from the engine.

Also check the harnesses to the fans, to ensure they're all connected rightly(if fans not working).

***What sort of gasket, do you have installed in there? Cellulose type, or metal make?

*** Installation errors could be another factor. Cylinder heads not properly smoothened(machined), would cause improper sealing between the interfaces of the cylinder head, and engine block. This would cause compression issues, and loss of power.

∆∆∆If the water outer casing seals are leaking, as a result if improper application of silicon sealant, coolants gets wasted and overheating still persists.∆∆∆

***Wrapped cylinder head. Bulk of the heat transfer from the engine occurs at the cylinder head if the engine. Because of the tremendous heat such heads undergo, and the various hotspots at the corners of such cylinders, aluminum heads are bound to exhibit some form of hairline cracks, that if not checked, would engine misfires, and overheating.

∆∆∆The next time your mechanic removes the head again, request he inspects the cylinder heads for hairline cracks.
***If the timing of the engine is over advanced, engine works much more, and overheats.

***If any of the intake and exhaust camshafts bearing caps were interchanged as seen in this case study, your car would continue having such issues, until the bearing caps are corrected.

***Check for clogged or dirty radiator. If before now, the radiator hadn't overheated as a result of a single celled radiator system, then replacing it may not solve the problem. Check if the radiator is clogged. Flush, or replace it with a much higher capacity one.


Hope this helps you tackle this problem.

Any concerns you've got, relay back to the house please.


Regards,
Joseph
DW Nig Ltd
Twitter: @dw_nig
08066643532(WhatsApp/calls)

@honmusa. Thanks so very much for the feedback. Would try effecting that suggestion.

@fckmn24seg. Hehehe! In case... you got the car, you case in the future, in case, ......?

INTRODUCTION
In these days of excruciating economic realities on ground, many car owners, and even potential car buyers, are looking for various ways to increase their cars fuel economy.

Those objectives, can be achieved, by ensuring that your car has got any of the following fuel efficient technologies embedded in it.

1. ENGINE TECHNOLOGIES
Nowadays, in a bid to outsmart each other, auto manufacturers, have improved on already existing technologies in the engine related fuel savings, as found in the technologies below:

¶Cylinder deactivation system. This system, enables cylinders that are not in use to be deactivated. For instance, on vehicles with a V6, or a V8 engine, with the activation of the cylinder deactivation system, the V6 is converted to a 3cylinder engine, whilst the V8 to a V6 engine. This helps increases fuel economy up to 5%.
Application of this technology can be found on Honda Cross tour, etc.

¶Turbochargers. Turbocharging an engine, increase performance, without

¶Direct fuel injection system. Before the advent of this technology, fuel/air mixtures occurs in the intake manifold, where it's then sent straight to the combustion chambers. This wasn't providing the much needed fuel economy. Then came the direct fuel injection technique, that directs the mixture straight into the combustion chamber. These gave the needed efficient combustion, and economy. No unnecessary fuel was wasted in the process, and the spray pattern, was precise.

¶Variable valve timing and lift(VVT). This system varies the intake and exhaust valves of the engine, according to the vehicle speed of the engine.
It improves engine efficiency, by allowing the injection if fuel and air into the engine for various engine speeds.
In the fixed system, the intake of air/fuel mixture into the combustion chambers, and the exhaustion of the burnt gases where already fixed from the factor. So, that causes a lot of fuel economy problems, resulting into its modifications to the VVT system.
Various car manufacturers call the variable valve timing and lift different names. But they still operate on the same principle.

2. TRANSMISSIONS
Without a transmission system on a car, your car won't move you any where.
Transmission systems adds awhile lot of load on an engine, during driving. Take for instance. If you've got a car with a 3speed forward gear, you'd notice the engine won't operate at its optimal level, because of the few gear ratios its got. This stresses the engine, and contributes to a poor fuel economy.
It's in trying to resolve some of the fuel economy issues that cars have being in one way or the other, embedded with any of the following technologies:

¶Continuously variable transmission (CVT). This type of transmission system has no definite number of gear ratios. This I mean, that as you drive tour car, if it's a CVT transmission type, the acceleration is always seamless(you don't feel the normal jerk, or feelings, when a standard transmission engages). It is this seamlessness, and it's small size, that contributes to it's fuel economy.
Though such transmissions are expensive, and very sensitive to fluids.
***CVT have their own different transmission fluids. Do not use a any other transmission fluids, asides a CVT specifications recommended by your manufacturer.

¶Additional forward gears. The higher the forward gears, the better the fuel economy of an engine.
Nowadays, auto manufacturers are increasing the number of gear rations on their various cars, to meet up with fuel economy competitions.
Some cars have improved their forward gears from 4-almost 8 gears. Examples, of these, you find on car racing, etc.
When buying your next car, research the number of forward gears it has. That would save you up to 2-4% fuel savings.

¶Automated manual transmission (AMT). This system works as a normal conventional automatic transmission, as far as the car owner is concerned, but it at the same time eliminates the inefficiencies that are always associated with conventional automatic transmission. The system uses a clutch instead of a torque converter to attach the engine to the transmission. It shifts all of its gears using electronic actuators, as found in some conventional automatic transmission system.
So, the next time you change your transmission system, and notice it has a clutch instead of a converter system, know its an AMT.

¶Dual clutch transmission (DCT). Its different from an ATM system, and Its sometimes known as a twin clutch, because it has two clutch packs, that are each assigned to allow the selection of an odd numbered gear, and an even numbered gear ration.
It has a smooth shift, and reduces fuel consumption by 6-9%, compared to a conventional 6-speed automatic transmission.

3. HYBRID TECHNOLOGY
There are different types of hybrid technology in place nowadays.
The following are the ones that are in their games, in terms of fuel consumption:

¶Idle-stop. A car comes to a stop, during deceleration, or at traffic stops, and suddenly resumes operations during driving.
This saves fuel fuel constant idling.
About 2% is fuel is saved.

¶Mild hybrids. Fuel savings employing this technology, is conservatively 3-6%.
This system employs the idle-stop, and a regenerative braking, where all the supposed energies wasted are captured, and reused.
Example of this technology is found on the Honda accord hybrids.

¶Full hybrids. They utilise idle-stop, regenerative braking, and larger electric motors and batteries to increase fuel economy, especially in a stop-and-go driving.

4. OTHER TECHNOLOGIES
¶Vehicle weight reduction. Unnecessary loads in your car, contributes to excess fuel use. Thus is because, the engine would require more pulling power to get the car going.
Remove all spare parts stocked in your car's booth. They add unnecessary load on the engine.
You'd conservatively achieve 1-3% fuel savings, per 5% reduction in weight.

¶Low rolling resistance tires. Such tires add more drag on on the car, because much energy is being lost.




Conclusion.
Car manufacturers are daily coming up with fuel saving techniques to help cushion in the effects of high fuel prices, and fuel inefficiencies.

Knowing the type of fuel saving technologies your car has, would help you in making proper choices when considering buying a car, or even plan how you manage fuel use.



Regards,
Joseph
08066643532(call/WhatsApp)

@Gazzuzz and kingreign. Well, not to worry. I'm in the "theatre room" right now, preparing an article.
If there's time, we'd talk about that.
In the meantime, an article is the making right now.

I like your stuff guys. I think this shows you aren't just scanning through it, but studying what's written.

Later na.
But I'd really appreciate if "technical errors" could be pointed out in ALL my articles.
That would be a better avenue for fine tuning that "engine".

@Gazzuzz. You de funny o! So all articles I don post get technical errors? Haba mallam!

@kingreign and Gazzuzz. Sorry! As far as you've gotten the message, of what the article depicts, no problem.
Corrections would be effected.
Thanks for drawing my attention to it.

INTRODUCTION
Asides other factors mentioned about the impacts, and causes of overheating, in my previous article(see the link below),

https://www.nairaland.com/3500161/disastrous-impacts-overheating

Another reason why your car's cooling system can overheat, would be a failing, or failed WATER PUMP.

WHAT DOES THE WATER PUMP DO?
A water, just like the electric submersible water pump you've got in your households, pumps water from under the ground, and straight to the overhead tank, or reservoir.

So, does your car's water pump works. It pumps coolants from the radiator, and channels it through the numerous water channels to the engine block and cylinder heads. At a certain operating temperature, when the engine us extremely hot, the water dissipates the hot fluid back yo the radiator, and so on, where cold coolants from the radiator is channel back to the engine block/cylinder, to continue the cycle.

REASONS WATER PUMPS FAIL
Because of the extreme exposure of the pump to high temperatures, pumps are bound to fail, due to the followings:

1. Use of water as coolants. Using of water as coolants, comes with its own risk.
Agreed, water is a good conductor of heat.

But it would interest you to note that, water, thermally, is excellent dissipating heat away from the engines cooling system to the environment, fails to exhibit such characteristic, when the temperature of an engine gets above 100°C, it looses its thermal property. This lose of thermal property, encourages overheating, corrosion buildup, etc, thereby resulting into reduction in pump efficiency.

Water contains impurities that have the capacity to cause the gradual wear of the pumps impeller blades.

Some people would even go to the extend of using well, or borehole water as coolants in their cars.
Why not invest in a 4L radiator coolant, and use same as your car's coolant.

2. Wrong coolants specifications. Adhere to your manufacturer's specifications for coolants type.

A lot of manufacturers these days, have come up with different degree of specifications for their brands of vehicles.

If the recommended radiator coolants aren't available, USE ANY OTHER COOLANTS WITH SAME SPECIFICATIONS, viz a viz, ADDITIVES.
It's better to use a coolant that closely matches that recommended by your vehicle manufacturer, than using ordinary water.

Some car owners, might not be able to afford OEM based coolants. They would rather buy other brands, as long as it would achieve the same purpose.

3. Mixing different brands/colour of coolants. Different car manufacturers have got different varying degree if additives added in their radiator coolants, to achieve one function or the other.

For instance, coolants are meant to prevent cooling system rust, dissipate excessive heat away from the system, and also to prevent the buildup of corrosion in the system.

Mixing coolants of different colours and specifications are a sure way to easily and quickly degrade a water pump.

All radiator coolants have durations of expiration of the various additives in the coolants. Some are for a year, some two years, and so on.

If there are dissimilar coolant use, it would definitely lead to pump failures, because of the build up of sludge that would be deposited in the system.

4. Bad water pumps. Replacing a failed water pump isn't the problem. But the crux, would be, is the replacement pump, a genuine one. These days, we've got lits of water pumps sold in the market, as OEM standards, but at the ends, they fail, leading to overheating, within some months after installation.

Ensure replacement pumps are bought from genuine vendors.

SIGNS YOUR PUMP IS FAILING
Here are some of the signs your car's pump is failing.

1. Grinding noise. This kind of noise, usually comes from your car's water pump's pulley bearings, or the water pump shaft.

The noise is synonymous to an engine components, or a bearing(Boris) that requires lubrication.

This noise, depending on the state of failure of the pump, the grinding noise increases in I tensity, as the engine is started early in the morning, or while its being driven.

This grinding noise occurs when the rubber seals inside of the water pump's shaft that prevents water from delubricating the bearing, fails(is broken, or cracked), as a result if exposures to high temperatures.

Replace the water pump immediately when you notice this noise.

2. Leaks around the water pump casing. You'd suddenly notice that when the car is parked, the radiator coolant, has gone down.

You keep on topping the radiator coolant regularly.

Sometimes you may notice a yellowish grain of powder around the tiny hole(weep hole) on the pump housing.

You'll observe coolants always dropping at the front and directly under the pump location.
Always put an eye on the radiator reservoir, if your car has no provision for radiator cap.

3. Overheating engine. When you notice the engine's temperature continues to rise, despite checking the integrity of the radiator hoses, thermostat, cylinder gaskets, etc, it's time to ha e a look at your water pump.

Overheating would always happen with a failed water pump, because the impeller blades on the pump, won't be able to deliver the needed volume of coolants required to relieve the engine of thermal load(stress).


¶¶¶¶¶¶¶¶

∆ Replace radiator coolants, if its more than two years in the car's cooling system.
Expired coolants are always a huge threat to the operational efficiency of water pumps.
When coolants aren't replaced, additives are degraded, and form sludge, and corrosion, that have being know to be enemies of water pump, and aluminum surfaces.

∆ Replace the coolants in a used car, if you just bought it.
A ten year old car without its coolants replaced, is a one using water as a coolant in one's car.

∆ Don't mix different types of coolants together(red, and green, etc).
Adhere to a single type.
Drain all the water from the engine's cooling system, before introducing a fresh one.

This would limit diluting the coolants with water.

¶¶¶¶¶¶¶¶¶¶




CASE STUDY

Camry 2007;
Capacity of engine: 2.4L, 4Cylinder
Engine type: 2AZ-FE


CUSTOMER'S COMPLAINT

*Engine makes a grinding noise, immediately the engine is started, when it is cold

*Water from the coolant reservoir keeps going down, and I keep topping it.


OUR TROUBLESHOOTING

*Got to the customer's location, in order to simulate the customer's complaints.
Started the engine, a terrible grinding noise surfaces.

*Discovered coolant leaks around the front and sides directly below the pump location.

*Topped the reservoir with water, and discovered immediate water was leaking out from beneath the pump.

*Auto tensioner bearing makes noise(grinding noise).
That bearing was responsible for the initial noise, when the car was started.

THE FIX

*Drained the existing coolants, and captured it in a container.

*Replaced the pump with a new one, after removing the old one.

*Inspected the water pump housing seal to make sure its still intact.
Do not reuse an old seal.
All new pumps come with new rubber seals.
Reusing old seals would cause coolant leaks and overheating. Something, you'd want to avoid.
Ensured genuine silicone gum was used.

*Allowed silicone gum to dry perfectly before filling the radiator system with coolants. This would give the water pump a perfect sealing.

*Started the engine, and allowed to run for 15min.
Checked for leaks, without any found.

*Replaced only the auto tensioner bearing, instead of buying a complete auto tensioner assembly.
That saved the customer some bulks though.



CONCLUSION
Detecting a failing(failed) pump, should be quiet easy.
Replacing your car's radiator coolants, is a panacea for prolonging the lifespan of the car's water pump unit.
It pays to use new OEM water pump, than using a used one.






Regards,
Joseph
08066643532(calls/WhatsApp)

@9icetoo. If your car's engine oil turns black immediately an oil change, you might have;

1. A lot of blow-by of exhaust gases, going in the combustion chamber.

2. Another reason could be your car's internal engine components might be stocked with sludge, as a result of accumulated contaminants from the oxidation of the additives in the engine oil.

3. Some cars, like kia Sportage, 2007/8, I have worked on, immediately suffer such engine oil discolouration as I have said. In some of those instances, what I have noticed as the cause of the problem, has always being excessive fuel consumptions.

PS: Thanks for the corrections, about diesel engine.
The article was meant for petrol engine applications only.
I do understand diesel applications, immediately gets discoloured that way(black).

In summary, I think petrol engine applications with an immediate discoloured engine oil, tells you the engine might be a high mileage car, with lots of gel in it, or it has engine blow-by problems.

Spark plugs? Yeah, you're right. The other one with BLACK(soot) depicts excess fuel consumption, as we found out, and excessive electrode gap.

Like your contributions brother!

@Gazzuzz. OK na

@Gazzuzz. That was the complaint from the client. That has being rectified after the repairs.

INTRODUCTION
When a car's engine oil immediately discolours from its somewhat tan, or golden colour to blackish, are lot of things could contribute to that happening.

*** An already sludged valve train(comprising of the camshafts, valve stems, and even the valve baffles); and the oil sump(which houses the oil strainer, crankshaft main bearings, etc).

Such sludges or gel, are often as a result of accumulated oxidized additives in the oil, contaminants, and also metal shavings as a result of scrapping/scouring of piston rings with the interface of the cylinder walls.

It is these shavings, and the products of oxidation of the additives in the engine oils, that results in to engine seizures.

Sludge builds up with time.

It is difficult to fully dislodge an engine.
The easiest way, would be to dismantled the engine e, and do a thorough cleaning.

Such seizures could result in to any of the critical engine components failing.

Parts such as timing chains, guides, chain tensioner, valves and valve stems, etc.

*** Excessive fuel consumption, dumps too much of fuel into the combustion chamber.
For instance, if your car throws in a LEAN system trouble code, it depicts the car's ECU is commanding the pulse injection system rate to supply more fuel for to offset the deficiencies in the combustion chamber.

The excess fuel supply being demanded by the car's engine, is to keep the air/fuel ratio in the right proportion.


HOW CAN FUEL GET IN TO THE COMBUSTION CHAMBER?

1. When there's a distortion in the air/fuel ratio.
In a LEAN situation, which could be caused by manifold intact leaks, etc, the rate of fuel supply into the mix increases tremendously.

2. If there's faulty valves and valves stems.

3. If the timing setting is distorted. The engine e would work much more than required, thereby, the demand for fuel intake increases.

The timing of the valves are very important in controlling fuel economy, during the four strokes of an engine.

This is how it works. During the downward stroke(BDC-bottom dead centre), the intake valves opens, allowing in mixture of air/fuel in to the combustion chamber. As the pistons returns upwards toward the top(TDC-top dead centre), there's a build up of pressure, as a result of compressing the mixture. The compressed mixture of fuel/air ratio is then ignited by sparks from each of the ignition spark plugs, courtesy of the ignition coils (the power stroke). At this stage, the violent turbulence set by the combustion of the mixture translates that in to reciprocating motion, which then moves your car. As the cycle continues, exhaust gases are being expelled from the exhaust valves, and the processes continues that way.

So, when there's any disconnect between any of these processes, especially the intake stroke section, there'd be extreme temperature and fuel economy problems as well.


4. Procedural errors during a major engine work like replacement of camshafts bearing caps, etc.
Though such errors aren't common, but have being, due to my experience, some of the reasons an engine overworks, and dumps excess fuel in the combustion chamber.


CONCLUSION
The key to ensuring your car's recently replaced oil, doesn't immediately turn dark, is to ensure engine oils are replaced at as when due, use quality oils, and encourage your mechanic to be some more committed to replacing parts, such as valves, chain guides and timing chain, with more caution. The aim is for the mechanic to feel incompetent, but it's for both parties to save time, and resources. After all, you(the customer) is the one parting with your hard earned CASH!









CASE STUDY

CUSTOMER'S COMPLAINTS:

* I replaced the timing chain, timing chain guides, and 4Nos valves of my car, some two weeks ago, and ever since, I have observed the following with my car;

1. Engine oil immediately turns black after three days when I did an oil change.

2. The car consumes a lot of fuel. It wasn't like that before.

3. When the AC system is put on, the engine e overheats extremely. I don't use the AC system any longer.

4. The car can't ascend a hill. It kind if lose power approaching a hill.

4. Cylinder head gaskets has being replaced TWICE!

¶¶¶ Decided to try you, to see if you could fix the car.


CAR DETAILS

Vehicle type: Toyota corolla CE

Mileage: 89,589miles

4 Cylinder, 1.8L engine

Model year: 2001

Transmission: Automatic



TROUBLESHOOTING METHOD

1. We asked the customer questions, pertaining to the history of the car. This I mean, when did the problem actually started, and what solution has being proffered on the car from my colleagues.

This enabled us to really understand the customer, and be more emphatic on his plights.

The answer from the customer, was that it all started after the replacement if the timing chain and timing guide.

2. We got the car scanned for trouble codes, and freeze frame data.

The freeze frame data, would display AT WHAT CIRCUMSTANCES SUCH AS TEMPERATURES, RPM, SPEED, ETC, the fault occurred. That way, we won't be beating around the bush, trying to spend hours, figuring out what the cause could be.

It should be noted that scantools does not actually tell you where a fault is, but would only narrow down your search. Its somewhat synonymous to what a google search does.

It takes you through millions or even billions of search results of what you're looking for. Its now your responsibility to research through those contents, for the particular piece of information of interest to you.

The scanned results are as follows:

* P0115: Engine coolant temperature circuit malfunction (current code)

* P0171: System too lean(fuel trim). The codes are pending and current.

Freeze frame data(FFD): I purposely chose engine parameter for my baseline(692rpm)

P0420: Catalyst system efficiency below threshold(Bank 1) pending.

P1346: VVT sensor/camshaft position. sensor circuit range/performance problem (bank1) current code

P1349: VVT system malfunction (bank 1) pending and current.

FFD: 1250rpm

The scanning gave us some idea of where to commence the job.

From the scanned codes, and the complaints of the customer, that gave us further light into the troubleshooting.

We now knew that the problem was within the valve train area.

3. Car properly parked; jacked up and securely on a jack stand, for safety reasons.

4. Removed valve cover, to inspect the timing chain, and the intake and exhaust camshafts sprockets for any timing "jumps".





OUR DISCOVERIES

¶ Intake camshaft timing's jumped by two teeth.

A misaligned engine, would cause extreme temperature rise, excess fuel consumption, and even loss of power.

On extreme occasions, it would cause engine misfires, as a result of preignition and detonations.

¶ Radiator cap relieve valve spring had broken off; rubber seals also weak.
A broken relieve valve wouldn't function to regulate the pressures of the coolant in the radiator, during extreme temperature rises.

¶ Spark plugs weren't properly torqued.
This makes compression pressure to leak out of the cylinder head, during the compression stroke.

¶ Both intake and exhaust cap bearings were interchanged.

That was a huge mistake from the previous auto shop that fixed the car.

It should be noted that interchanging such critical components as those, who cause engine timing issues, and the uneven wear and tear of the camshafts beddings. There would also be¶ rattling noises that would come from the valve train area, immediately the engine is cranked.

VVT(Variable valve timing) sensor was already broken in the valve train portion of the intake camshaft.

Its important to note that the VVT works in consonance with a car's ECU, controlling when the valves are supposed to open, and close, for each of the strokes of cycle of operation of a petrol engine. It also controls power related operations of a car.

Since this sensor was broken, it wasn't sending signals from the intake camshaft VVT sprocket to the ECU any longer. That was the reason for the VVT related codes.
Honda, uses a VCM system.




THE FIX

1. Removed all the camshafts bearing cap bearings, and correctly fitted them where they should be. That's intake caps, going to the intake camshaft, while the exhaust bearing caps, foes to the exhaust camshaft.

Its very pertinent to apply some oil to the camshafts lobes and caps, to reduce scouring of the surfaces of cap bearings and camshafts.

2. The engine was properly timed, and valve cover and valve baffles washed with solvent(petrol). Main reason is to dislodge the valve train area of sludges, that could likely cause other problems to the engine in future.

3. Gave the engine a nice short, and it obeyed. What I mean is, I just stated the car, and it immediately fired up.

4. Replaced the VVT sensor with a known good one.

5. Replaced the stock fuel pump and the casing filter, completely from the tank, because the filter was terribly clogged, preventing the required flow of fuel pressure to the injection system.

6. Replaces the radiator cover to a 0.9 specification. The ratings on radiators, depicts the specific density of substance its supposed to work on (water).

7. Cleaned the spark plugs with with an iron brush, and torqued them properly.

8. Erased all the troubled codes, and did a drive cycle of the car to the island.

This was done in heavy traffic, with the AC system ON, to simulate the various conditions, according to my scanned data(freeze frame data), to observe the operation of the car, before handing over to the customer.

The vehicle was on 3rd mainland bridge from 05:15pm-07:30pm. That's to say, 2.5hrs, without any overheating, and so on.



The next time you've got an overheating and the oil in your car immediately turns black, know that it could be that excess fuel, and/or sludge is in the system.
Just drive it down for an inspections.
No fee charged for that.


PS: In case you've got an overheating issue, ensure all the basic components of the engine cooling system has being checked, before concluding its the cylinder head gasket that's the problem.

It pays to spend that small bucks on replacing a radiator, than to finally discover, it wasn't the cylinder head gasket that was the overheating culprit.







Regards,
Joseph
08066643532(WhatsApp/call)
Twitter: @dw_nig
oigonojoseph@yahoo.com

INTRODUCTION

In major cities around the world's capitals, traffic gridlocks, has always being the major headaches of car owners.

Take for example, Lagos, Nigeria, where almost every nook and cranny, there are traffic gridlocks, some necessitated by the numerable traffic stop lights; illegal mounting of check points by law enforcement agents; densely populated neighbourhoods, and broken down articulated trucks.

Traffic gridlocks pose significant challenges to car owners, in terms of security, vehicle breakdowns, and environmental pollutions.

This article would focus sorely on the SECURITY RISKS associated with being stuck in traffic gridlocks.

THE SECURITY THREATS YOU FACE
In Lagos, and in other major capitals, the threat posed from being in your car, all day, in traffic gridlock are numerous.

*Threat of being robbed of your possessions, and kidnapped, at gun point.

*Threat of mob action, for instance there was a break down of law and other. Cars could be set alight, without no chance of escape.

Take for instance, if there was a car that suddenly catches fire.
Because of the inflammable nature of petrol, and the close proximity of cars to each other, cars could easily go up in flames, before the arrival of firefighters.

*Threat of sexual assault. Ladies who drive alone to work early, are at a risk of being sexually assaulted.

*You might get no help, as soon as possible, when your car breaks down.

PS: The funny, or surprising thing with Lagos is that, when incidents such as assaults, and traffic robberies happen, we just don't get close to help the victim.
If you do, you might end up being framed up, or killed in the process.

WHEN YOU APPROACH, OR IN A TRAFFIC GRIDLOCK SITUATION, WHAT DO YOU DO?
There are marked out places in our "minds", where we know has a history of crimes, and insecurity.

Places like, OSHODI(Oke and Isale); TOYOTA BUSTOP; THIRD MAINLAND BRIDGE; IYANA IPAJA; AJAH, etc are places with terrible traffic congestion, whether in the mornings or evenings, where you'd not want your vehicle to stall.

Here's what you'll do

1. Ensure all your glasses are closed; your Ac system perfectly working.
Your cars door should also be pinned locked.

2. Put away all phones, laptops, jewelry out of sight when driving. You can hide them under your car seats, or put them in the booth, before leaving the office.

Thieves get attracted when they see valuables like that on your car's seat.
I have heard of stories of women, whose mobile phones have being forcefully stollen from them, even while their car's doors and glasses were closed.

3. Don't interact with the hawkers you see on traffic gridlocks. Some of them are disguised thieves.

Guns could be concealed in some of their wares.
Even some beggars are not exonerated.
If you really insists you want to patronise them, DON'T WIND DOWN YOUR GLASS FULLY. WIND IT DOWN 1/4.

4. Don't get too close to the car in front of you, except the traffic is moving.
Reason being, in case of any emergency, you'd be able to negotiate your way out of there easily.

5. Continuously blare your car's horn, when you notice someone getting extremely close to your car. You do this, to draw the attention of other car owners.

6. Stay in your car, if it breaks down. This is not a "one fits it all" methodology.
You sit in the car, and make necessary calls for help, if and only you observe that the area where you're, despite the gridlocks, hoodlums would want to take advantage of you. This applies mainly to the women folks.

Definitely, some persons would come over to want to assist you. They may claim to be mechanics. You'd be surrounded by such people, and if you aren't careful, you'll be instantly dispossessed.
So be watchful.


HOW NOT TO BE A VICTIM VEHICLE BREAK DOWN IN TRAFFIC.
Its so embarrassing for one's vehicle to breakdown in a traffic situation.
You'd hear people say, "Oga comot your stupid car from here jor!".

1. Ensure your car's in good shape mechanically, and otherwise.
I bet you wouldn't want to get stucked in traffic because of your car just broke down.
Do not assume your cars in a perfect condition, because its new.
Carry out scheduled and preventive maintenance checks on your car(s).

2. Get the contacts of your mechanic handy, or that of a car rescue facility.
You might never know when you'll need their help.

3. Plan your trip before leaving home. You can plan to avoid traffic by planning which routes are less prone to traffic gridlocks.
Giditraffic, and other platforms provide information about traffic situations on Lagos roads. That would help navigate your way properly, avoid traffic congestions, and even thieves.

4. Inform your family, or friends, your likely return time home. That way, if you're stuck in traffic, or have a mechanical problem with your vehicle, help would come fast.

5. Have at least some basic tools in your car. Tools like sets of spanner(up to 20mm sized); screw drivers; a pair of pliers; jack and wheel spanner; and also a spare tyre.
Some cars don't just have spare tyres.
Some people enjoy taking such risks, driving without a spare tire.


CONCLUSION
Traffic gridlocks are not one can actually avoid. But with proper planning and religiously adhering to a scheduled maintenance system, and being security conscious, would ensure you stay safe humanly, and your car wise.



Regards,
Joseph

@kk na.

@Gazzuzz. They've refused to accept that. But you know no automakers would want to accept such. That would be a terrible financial drain on their parts, considering what recalls would entail.

Did you read that part, some mechanics also blamed them for designing some of their oil galleries extremely of a minute diameter, thereby encouraging the build up of sludge?

@kingreign. You funny o! Emmmm, I just rebuilt aunty's highlander '03 with the rx300 engine o! using the 1MZ-FE.

@hayjaycity. Was an oversight. Thanks for the corrections though.

@kolnel. Yes you're right. Where you de pass de go? Come back jor.

@Gazzuzz. Maybe this might help your curiosity.

Here's the link.
Please ensure you read and understand the entire article, before commenting.

http://www.clublexus.com/forums/es-1st-to-4th-gen-1990-2006/262014-toyota-settles-on-oil-sludge-lawsuit-es300-and-rx300.html

@kolnel. Yes you're right

@Gazzuzz and others,l. Thank you guys for the corrections. Was a typo error.
I meant to inscribe "camshaft" rather on that pix

@tizzdi. Abeg no die o! @tizzdi. Abeg no die o!

INTRODUCTION

I know most of you guys would have being curious to find out, what the...does thus writer mean by "She suddenly died"?. Well, in sorry, I never meant to throw you guys into a state of mourning here.

I'm not referring to the death of a human being, here. But I'm kind of like referring to your car's engine.

Have you ever wondered, what on earth, could cause your car to suddenly stop on the middle of the road, maybe for instance, you're having a nice ride to the East, or going to Jos, Plateau State, or even being suddenly stuck in traffic on third mainland bridge, in Lagos Nigeria.

You crank the engine several times, the engine attempts to start, but hmmm! It just doesn't want to respond to your " abeg, start na" prayer?

If you're a resident of Lagos, Nigeria, you suddenly are unleashed with different thugs claiming to be "saviours" to you. If you aren't careful, you're disposed of your possessions.

Your cars engine can die down in the middle of the road, as a result of several reasons.

They're as follows:

* ignition related faults. Spark plugs that are worn out, or fouled with carbon deposits; faulty ignition control modules; deteriorated ignition coils(coil on pack on some models).

* bad ECUs. ECUs are a car's ultimate control system. It's the centre where all processing activities are carried out.

High speed communications between different sensors/switches/actuators are executed in some instances, via CAN(communication area network) protocols.

ECUs are synonymous to your computers CPU, in which that they are comprised of comprised of electronic components such as capacitors, dioxides, and even the circuit board circuitry.

*mechanical failure. This, I mean, engine failure.

This article would focus more on the MECHANICAL ASPECT of why SHE (your car) DIED SO SUDDENLY, EVEN THOUGH YOU KNEW THE CAR WAS IN A PERFECT STATE.

WHY DO CARS SUDDENLY SEIZE UNEXPECTEDLY WHILE DRIVING?

I think we or perhaps some of us, must have heard stories or experienced situations where someone you knew was hale and hearty, suddenly dies, or suffers from a certain form of seizure.

That's the same thing that happens to your cars engine. Its an inanimate object, so its bound to fail someday, without your knowing it. I know some folks would argue that with me though. Well, its fine; that's "democracy" in action.

Here are the reasons for engine seizures

1. Delayed engine oil change. Just like how blood is a very vital resource in the human body, so is an engine oil in a a car's engine.

Without engine oil in your car, your car's not gonna move an inch, without breaking down.

I know the economy is hard, and probably it's going to be insane for me to recommend a 3000km oil change to you. But I bet you, the cost of driving a car with an overdue engine oil, outweighs the benefits you might be expecting.

Delayed oil change most if the times, leads to oil shortages.

This is how it happens:
Oil in your car's engine, contains additives, which with time, oxidize, and form sludge, which settles down firstly, on the oil pan, and the valve cover baffle, before clogging other vital engine components. It is these clogs that are responsible for excess temperature rise, and engine failure.

So, what does the oil do to your car's engine?

¶ acts as a lubricating agent on the various internal engine components (crankshaft, camshaft, pistons, etc).
Lubricating these necessary parts, affords you a high fuel economy, reduction in overheating.

¶ acts a a cooling agent. Your car's engine is cooled to a tolerable level, in order to preserve the internal engine components, and also improve fuel economy.

* acts as contaminant absorber. Oils because of the additives in them, tend to absorb abrasives, and dirt from the engine, thereby protecting the engine.

What makes engine oils vary from one another, are the different grades of additives added, to achieve all, or some of the features above. Such additives are added, based on the required targeted engine operating performances(viscosities, temperature, etc).

∆∆∆∆∆∆∆∆∆∆∆∆∆

If the engine oil in your car isn't replaced as at when due, the already existing additives necessary to achieve the desired objects would have degraded, increasing the chances of engine wear and tear, overheating, sludge build up, and even engine seizures(knock).

An overdue engine oil, contains contaminants like sludge, from the oxidation of the oil additives.
They also contain metal shavings, as a result if poor lubrication of engine parts.
It also contains dirt from the environment.

In such situations, the oil in your car, becomes like just ordinary oil, without any additives in it.

Its advisable to replace the engine oil, as at when due, in order to avert engine damage.

∆∆∆∆∆∆∆∆∆∆∆∆∆∆

2. Overheating. An overheated or overheating engine is a panacea for an engine's sudden demise.

Overheating, or extreme temperature rise, does not occur without initial signs. You must have noticed that your temperature's gauge suddenly peaks, or the engine makes high engine noise.

This I mean, for instance, if the engine RPM had being, say, 1000, and suddenly you notice it has increased to 1800, or 2000, that calls for urgent attention.

The car's engine temperature would peak, and fuel economy suffers at the same time.

An overheated engine can cause the pistons, to undergo "beyond normal" temperature rise, which in the long run, are inimical to the smooth operation of the engine.

It is when these pistons expand, as they undergo several thousand degrees of temperature rises, that they tend to seize and stop working, in the interface between the engine block wall, and the pistons.

In some of these scenarios, engine block walls have broken, warranting the replacement of such components. You'll be lucky though, for that to be replaced, if your vehicle isn't under warranty.

3. Design flaws. No vehicle manufacturer that doesn't have one or two design flaws on their engine production lines. Humans make mistakes, robots, or animated processes also make "worst" mistakes too.

So, take for instance, if the diameter of oil passages on the crankshaft of a RX 300 is 5mm, and oil volume supply from the oil pump is at a rate if 1L/min. Let's assume that the standard diameter specifications for a Toyota production line making crankshafts, in say, for example, Mexico.

There would definitely be some mistakes
during such productions of those shafts(increased diameter to say, 20mm). The flow of oil through the crankshafts, and to the top at the requires speed, would be hampered. Because, the larger the diameter, the slower the movement. But the smaller the diameter, would increase the rate of spray to the required components at the right time.

SIGNS YOUR CAR'S ENGINE HAS SEIZED(FAILED)

* You suddenly realised while driving, the car just suddenly loss power.

* You start the car, the car refuses your cranks, even after all other culprits that could cause such failures, have being isolated.

* Sometimes you might here a knocking noise, before the engine dies down finally.

* Engine would never turn, as a mechanic attempts to rotate the engine e by hand, at the bonnet area.

WHAT DO YOU DO IN SUCH A SITUATION?

* Call your mechanic to find out what might have happened to your car, or engine.

* Be calm, and do not rush into doing anything.

* Request for a towing van, if the car is in an unsafe place.

You could tow the car to any neighboring town, or village, you have confidence in.


CONCLUSION

Engines do not suddenly fail, without no warning signs.
It pays to tackle every engine related noise or problem early, before it degenerates into something "mountainous", that at the end, creates a big hole in your finances.
Engine failures like this, don't require outright engine replacements.
It still depends on which side of the fence you're sitting on though.





€€€€€€€€€€€€¶¶¶¶¶¶¶¶¶¶¶¶¶¶¶¶¶¶¶¶


CASE STUDY

Vehicle type: Highlander; 4X4
Model year: '03
Mileage: 167, 830miles
Engine type: V6; 1MZ-FE
Transmission type: Standard automatic

CUSTOMER'S COMPLAINT

Here's the customer's complaint


"I bought this Lexus as a Tokunbo(Nigeria's term for a used car), and as I was driving from Lagos to the Eastern part of the country(specifically Anambra), the car suddenly lost power, and stopped on the muddle of the road. It was such a dreadful thing, that there weren't cars behind me. I pulled over to a safe part of the road, tried cranking the engine several times, without success.
Consulted some mechanics over there, I was told the engine had knocked, or seized.
Customer towed the vehicle from Ore back to Lagos. Cost of towing was N60,000.

PS: This was a Tokunbo car, that's being in service for just 5months.


WHAT WE DID

In this part of our fix, we presented to options to the client.

1. Outrightly replace the engine completely. This method is mostly employed, if a client hasn't got the luxury of time to wait for engine overhauls.

2. Overhaul the engine, by replacing the damaged parts.
This would require us tearing the engine e apart, and replacing parts. Its cheap, depending g o. state of engine components damage, and the available time the client is willing to sacrifice.

Let me reiterate here that no engine that cannot be overhauled. Whether it's an aluminum, or cast engine block.

Don't believe the false stories people tell you about when aluminum engines are overhauled, they won't last. That would come I to play, if genuine engine parts aren't used, or the competence level of the technician is called to question.

*Inspected the car's engine when it was brought

*Discovered engine has seized already, and couldn't turn when the crankshaft pulley was turned manually.

* Dismantled the engine, and discovered

∆ 2Nos connecting rods main bearings had failed;

∆ Oil pan strainer, clogged with metal shavings

∆ Crankshaft No4 connecting rod inserts damaged, as a result of excessive friction.

∆ Noticed the engine internal components were all filled with sludge.


©©©©©©©©®®®®®©®®®®

* We ordered for the replacement parts, washed all necessary parts, and assembled the engine.
Started the engine, and everything runs cool.
* So, the other time you want to outrightly replace an engine, consider all other alternatives.

©©©©©©©©©®®®®®®®®®®


PSS: Just in case you've got any Toyota vehicle with model year from 98-2000, pray you don't experience engine seizures.

Toyota, has especially acknowledged there are some problems with this current engine make(1MZ-FE), suddenly stalling in motion, as a result of engine failures.

Here's the link:

http://www.clublexus.com/forums/es-1st-to-4th-gen-1990-2006/262014-toyota-settles-on-oil-sludge-lawsuit-es300-and-rx300.html

That might be the probable reason why some Americans sell such cars, to Nigeria, in connivance with some Nigerian car dealers.




Regards,
Joseph(08066643532/call/WhatsApp)
oigonojoseph@yahoo.com
www.facebook.com/dexterwise - dw nig ltd

@ajims. No problem brother!

@ajims. If those codes are still there after replacing the sensors, there are other possibilities I'm thinking of.

* find out if your mechanic erased the codes after replacing those sensors, and enquire if he carried out a drive cycle, in order for the ECU of the car to learn a fix has being done.

########

%%% check if there's a short to ground between the wire harnesses.

%%% check for continuity on the sensors

%%% find out also if the mechanic interchanged the sensors the wrong way

%%% specifically check the fuses on the fuse box at the bonnet area. In some cars, oxygen sensors have got fuse/relays.

%%% check for power supply from battery to the sensors.

%%%trace the wiring harness that goes from the sensors to the ECU.


I hope this helps you.




Regards,

Joseph