₦airaland Forum

Brake bleeding using a handheld vacuum pump

The salvo mechanism removed completely.

Exposing the fluids like this, creates problems.

A closer view of the drained contaminated fluid from the reservoir.
The black colouration was as a result of brake fluid oxidation, leading to destroyed O seals in the salvo mechanism.

A contaminated brake fluid reservoir. Notice the discoloration

I meant spongy feel when you apply your car's braking system. That kind of feeling, as though the brakes go straightaway down when applied, and not effective.

In the link below, I wrote on how you could tell, why each time you apply the brakes, why does it feel spongy.

Perhaps, there could be some water(moisture) mixed with the brake fluid in the reservoir.

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1. covering the brake reservoir immediately after every job, would go along way.
2. Properly evacuating the system of moisture before putting in new fluids using a handheld vacuum pump, or which ever methods you choose.

More details found here, showing you how to get rid of water (or moisture) in the brake system.

https://www.dxta.com.ng/2019/09/16/water-in-a-brake-system-reservoir/





Regards,
Joseph (08066643532:calls/WhatsApp)
DW Nig Ltd
Isolo
Lagos

Lateefat. Let's take things easy o! Just overlook some of the excesses over here.

Instead of people proffering solutions to the OP, here has become a smearing ground already.

Cheers!

Some few questions for you here:
1. are both vehicles buy and drive, or you still got some repairs to do?

2. if you go for the hybrid, is your pocket heavy enough to be able to bear the potential money stresses it would undergo?

3. do you have some funds somewhere you could budget for eventualities?

4. can you be patient when the car for instance is in a shop being fixed?
Some of the repairs we carry out on hybrid vehicles, aren't a plug and play thing, where you expect your car to be delivered sometimes immediately.

My suggestion:
1. don't buy that hybrid car, considering this is your first car.

2. considering the mileage of the car, its at its END already, pack wise.
The likelihood of battery failure, and other expensive components failing is much.
You might be lucky, the car won't give you problems, considering similar vehicles I have worked on.

3. if you want a vehicle, consider the none hybrid, although the hybrid has more MPG than the conventional Camry.



PS: But just in case you decide to go for a hybrid vehicle with a low mileage any, have some of these information here at your fingertips.

I wrote this some years ago.


https://www.nairaland.com/3450016/how-buy-hybrid-car



Regards,

Joseph (08066643532:calls/WhatsApp)
DW Nig Ltd
Isolo
Lagos

There are defective parts on Amazon prime too. I have bought a part, that after some time, got shorted in it's circuitry.

So don't fully trust those parts.

The let's there are not sold by Amazon, but by individuals, etc, using that as a platform

Automoto! I'm cool o! I'm still trying to not be analytical in my comments here.
But appears it's not working.?
;DAutomoto! I'm cool o! I'm still trying to not be analytical in my comments here.
But appears it's not working.?

It would be hard for you to grasps what we're suggesting to you. Y not take the car somewhere, and get it sorted out?

All of those cars are reliable and durable vehicles, especially the 05-06. They are like what you've in a Camry pencil light.Never dying. But problems are mainly HV battery packs, the ABS actuators, that, considering that they are old, would sure needs to be replaced, if you've never had one before. They are in the hundreds of thousands naira, considering that's what I fix in the shop.

The '10, not too strong like the previous models, but they are aesthetically beautiful, if that's what you're looking at.

The gear knobs and dashboard design is perfect!

On the models you've just mentioned, all of them after you're past the 100k mikes mark, if you're lucky, some would even start consuming engine oils in their 65k mark.

Finally, there's nothing wrong with owing a prius or any hybrid brand for that matter.

The problem is, since you're not buying a brand new car, and its a Nigerian used, you've to be prepared for unforseen spendings, just in case you may need to replaced the HV battery pack, an ABS pump, etc. These are normal wear items that should be replaced at the end of their lifespan.




Regards,
Joseph (08066643532:calls/WhatsApp)
DW Nig Ltd
Isolo
Lagos

The sensor might not be OK.
Few questions for you here.
1. Is your radiator cooling fan connected directly to the ignition system?

2. Is the engine coolant thermostat still in the car, or it has being removed?

3. Replacing that sensor, may not be the problem.

4. Run this test:
a. Unplugged the connector in that sensor, and read for trouble codes.
What code are you getting as regards the ect?
Same high or low blabla?

b. if the sensor is bad or OK, it should give you same results with the former sensor(high), when disconnected.

5. The ect wiring circuits, straight up from the sensor itself, down to the ECU maybe faulty ( a short or an open circuit there).

6. Did you read the freeze frame data on your scan tool, to lookvat the ECT temperature? Is it in the -40°C, or in the above that range?

7. Interpreting those would helped you troubleshoot this problem.


Hope this helps you more!



Regards,
Joseph (08066643532:calls/WhatsApp)
DW Nig Ltd
Isolo
Lagos

Yeah, its not pretty much bad, but the problems is you're putting in more torques on those bolts and nuts you maybe removing every months or so. There'd come a time when the threads on the sump, would get worn out, without your Knowledge, and that way, you start getting oil shortages and all that.

So how long do you want to continue doing that?

Putting in the engine flush, has no risks as you may have believed.

As you idling the engine for 3-4min as I stated earlier on, any sludge remaining in the engine, with time, should have settled in the oil sump.

The bimonthly oil change regime you've designed, would get those out of the engine.

Think about the costs in sealants, petrol to wash those parts, labour for the mechanic, and your time.

Its way much, and I think does not make any economic sense to me here.

So y not stick with the suggestions I have proffered above?

Your car should still last a very long time, if you stick with the oil change intervals, you've opted for.



PS: Pls never you use the engine flush to drive the car around.
The ones available for I think #700naira are not designed to used with the vehicle in motion.



Regards,
Joseph (08066643532:calls: WhatsApp)
DW Nig Ltd
Isolo
Lagos

Oh my God! You either replaced that engine, or ... Its gone too far already. I'm just sorry to say that!


Regards

So sorry for what happened to you.

Here's what I'd have to say.
1. To car owners, try and get a small code reader. This would help you be able to at least retrieved any stored codes, and maybe google them, to have an idea of what's going on with your car.

2. You must not be handy with tools to get your car's problems fixed. You can guide your mechanic, if he doesn't understand some of the codes.

3. Some mechanics find it frustrating to work along side with car owners, when it comes to such an interface.

4. To my colleagues, let's no matter what, try as much as possible, to keep existing or potential clients in the know of what we're doing, when it comes to fixing their cars.

5. I have clients, and I like them though, that are more enlightened about their car issues, when they cone over for fixes.
That way, you both share ideas, just in case you get into some sort of difficulties (remember, no one knows everything ALL!)

6. When your cars are fixed, pls do ensured you are absolutely satisfied with the job, before driving off(away).



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Have you contacted the mechanic to put your observations to him already?




Regards,
Joseph (08066643532:calls/WhatsApp)
DW Nig Ltd
Isolo
Lagos

What's the current codes you're getting?

Just calmed down. You don't need to be in a panic.
Carry out the suggestions below, you'd get that engine sorted out.

Y do you have to drain that oil every two months just because you intended to have the oil pump cleaned?

Its waste of resources, and that might increase problems for you, since you'd be loosing and tightening bolts and nuts more often?

I thought you said the engine was ringed?

Didn't your mechanic wash up all the internals of the engine while rebuilding, or you just asked him to only replaced the rings and allowed the engine like that?

This is what you'd do:
1. as long as you've already cleaned up the strainer already, don't opened up the sump again.

2. Since you're using conventional oil, your suggestions of replacing the engine oil every two to three months is cool.

3. Why you had the sludge development was because of the prolonged oil change interval on that oil.

Using such oils at that interval is a disaster waiting to happened, as long as you don't used high mileage synthetic oil, that's in the range of #18-20k.

4. Once your oil is due for change, add s can of engine flush, mixed with the one you want to change.

Allowed the engine to idle for 3min, then drain.
Do so every oil change for three tines or how capable you can, then discontinue.


I sure really hope this short piece of advice, would helped you sort the problem out.



Regards,
Joseph (08066643532:call/WhatsApp)
DW Nig Ltd
Isolo,
Lagos

Can you check the position of the idling on that car? I meant, the RPM. Is it below 6? It should be below 1(8-6RPM).

Try this test:
Engage the transmission system on reverse off the road, when its idling.

Do same when its on drive too.

What I'd your tachometer reading?

If the D/R shows it to be vibrating, then there maybe issues with the throttle assembly.

Carbon buildups in the butterfly valve probably.

Did your mechanic service your fuel system after the overhaul?

That's what he's supposed to do, as part of the complete job process.




Regards,
Joseph (08066643532:call/WhatsApp)
DW Nig Ltd
Isolo
Lagos

Hmmm, Mogaji2 . Emmm, so you want to kill people that import foreign oil into the country abi Hmmm, Mogaji2 . Emmm, so you want to kill people that import foreign oil into the country abi? Just joking though.

I'm just thinking whether this has anything to do with that transmission system in reverse?

Is it possible for you to scanned that car, and observed the transmission system temperature (fluid) at reverse, and compared that with when in park, and drive at stationary?

Do you noticed the problem when its in reverse while its idling, or moving?



Regards,
Joseph (08066643532:calls/WhatsApp)
DW Nig Ltd
Isolo
Lagos

Was the car vibrating like that before prior to overhauling?

Can you indicate at what speed you get that vibration?

From the codes you posted on here, the only thing that could cause excessive fuel consumption is the P0420 code.

1. check if your exhaust system has any form of leaks.
If it does, the car's ECU would increased injection pulse width, thereby increasing fuel consumption.

2. your catalytic converter has degraded severely, and it isn't functioning as its supposed to.

3. have you recently done any job on the catalytic converter recently?


Hope this helps you.



Regards,
Joseph (08066643532:calls/WhatsApp)
DW Nig Ltd
Isolo,
Lagos

The job he did isn't related to the noise surfacing right now.

Looking at the location where the O Deal was removed, you can see some form of gunk in there.

This should further tel you that you may have not being replacing your oil as at when due, or you're using conventional engine oil, that you take loooog time to have it replaced.

Appears you've a lot of sludge in the engine.

Y not take sometime to flush that engine up? Do a drain and refill, after replacing the oil.

You could also used oil treatment, to see how it goes.





Regards,
Joseph (08066643532:call/WhatsApp)
DW Nig Ltd
Isolo
Lagos

@MrFord. Thanks for the swift response.

Nice vehicle! But you must be careful to adhere to its early warning systems. This I mean, pay attention to any lights that may lit on the dashboard.

You must ensured you use the recommended oil, or synthetic, and oil filter.

That engine is delicate. It does not tolerate any trial and error, and wrong fluids.




Regards,
Joseph (08066643532:calls/WhatsApp)
DW Nig Ltd
Isolo
Lagos

Are you only having a VSC light on the dashboard, or in association with the check engine light?
In some cars, the both lights would be lit at the same time.
So have it read for codes first before throwing money at parts.


Regards,
Joseph (08066643532:call/WhatsApp)
DW Nig Ltd
Isolo
Lagos

I'd beg to differ in my response here.
But I hope my response won't be deleted afterwards as the others.

In my experiences rebuilding engines, I have seen situations where even an imported vehicle had the valve train, and engine block totally sludged out as in your photos.

There are two scenarios to this:
1. Its either the vehicle wasn't maintained holistically from the previous owner, or...
I have seen vehicles with the so-called full or any classification of synthetic fluids, that turns out to be sludged this way.

The sludging you see, is. byproducts of oxidation, and all that.

So even the synthetic, if not replaced as f she due, would sure turned sludgy as mineral oil.

2. Mineral oil was used, but the user unconsciously decided to exceed the usual OCI for that oil. Some car owners would use the conventional oil, expecting to get more MPGs from it, hence the resultant effect seen.


Purpose of any synthetic oil is FUEL ECONOMY (LOWER EMISSIONS), and ENGINE PROTECTION (this has varying opinions though from people).

Here's how I take care of such engines, when I'm rebuilding them:

Disassembled everything, inspect any components that are worn, replaced, and thoroughly wash every engine components properly using diesel, or thinner, or petrol. Do not wash the O rings pls with the solvents mentioned above.

After rebuild, use recommended Oil, whether synthetic or ....

Almost all vehicles imported here are high mileage ones. So the synthetic people buy, I would advised should be high mileage synthetic oil, and not the regular for newer vehicles. That way, there won't be complaints about oil leaks, etc.

But if the synthetic isn't working for you, switch to conventional oil, and please ensure you replaced that oil 2-3months as the case maybe.

But remember, you're sacrificing fuel economy (emissions-the environment) in this case.


Hope this helps to this discuss.


PS: The OPs warning of problems afterwards should only apply to vehicles whose internal engine components have undergone some serious for of wear and tear.



Regards,
Joseph (08066643532:call/WhatsApp)
DW Nig Ltd
Isolo,
Lagos

I think we've gotten a clue here now. This code popped up only when the injectors were serviced. Appears you have to concentrate your diagnosis there.

Take a look at the black rubber O ring that encircled the white plastic.
That the fuel pump rubber . If it was not properly aligned with the tank, fuel vapour would fill up everywhere in the car.