katakara: Hello everyone, I drive a 2005 VW Touareg and I noticed it started jerking and stalling a couple of months back and some sort of smell emanates from the vehicle after some heats emits from it also. Pls d car has bn parked 4 a while now after a couple of mechanics has done trial and error on it. I'll appreciate ur urgent help in ds case. Tanx all

Stylaay: Model: volkswagen
Make: Golf III
Trans: 4 speed auto
model year: 1996
drive config: 2WD
Specification. Euro
good day house. My golf never seems to exceed 120km/hr. When i got the car it used to get up to 130km/hr. When it gets to this speed the speedometer needle stops moving.. The speed of the car also refuses to increase. It rather starts reducing speed he my trying to ascend a hilly road even when stepping on my gas pedal . I observe my tachometer needle keeps moving and my engine's sound increases without the proportional increase in speed of the car. The fuel pump has been changed, my plugs are not misfiring i just don't know what to do i need help before mechanics destroy my car. . Thanks house

Volkswagen Golf III 1,781cc gasoline, I4 SOHC 8V 90 hp.

Who recommended fuel pump replacement?

If your engine rpm increases, without a corresponding increase in road speed, worse on hilly stretches, then your clutch is the culprit here. It's slipping. You may observe a burnt smell too when slip occurs. Slip will be worse on hilly stretches, and on level roads, slip will occur at higher rpm.

Given the average Nigerian mechanic's attitude to correct diagnosis, a transmission rebuild is a bit hit-and-miss. I would advice a replacement unit.

Siena:

Volkswagen Golf III 1,781cc gasoline, I4 SOHC 8V 90 hp.

Who recommended fuel pump replacement?

If your engine rpm increases, without a corresponding increase in road speed, worse on hilly stretches, then your clutch is the culprit here. It's slipping. You may observe a burnt smell too when slip occurs. Slip will be worse on hilly stretches, and on level roads, slip will occur at higher rpm.

Given the average Nigerian mechanic's attitude to correct diagnosis, a transmission rebuild is a bit hit-and-miss. I would advice a replacement unit.

delaw4u: Tanx sienna where do I get the 5w-30 here and what about the coolant,and what is the name for the 5w-30 or will I just get there and ask for 5w-30
Please reply asap

zaibatsu: Got an Audi A3 1999, 1.8 (AGN) 20v A/T.
All systems work perfectly except the tranny. PRND321 lit up like a Christmas tree yesterday. Transmission seems to be in limp mode and starts in 3rd. Will only shift to 4 th under hard acceleration at about 4000rpm.
Help needed Siena.
Thanks!

Siena:

FSI engines are pretty specialist. It's not your usual EFI, FSI fuel pressure runs extremely high, almost as high as that of a diesel. The fuel lines are larger than normal, and the fuel pump of a normal EFI Audi A6 of the same year will NOT run an FSI engine.

Maintenance is key here. If you're going to use roadside mechanics, or non-franchised garages, then please don't buy the Audi A6!

It is a much better car than the Honda Accord. Class, elegance, safety, innovation - you name it, the Audi has it by the bucketful. And with a galvanised body, you won't find any rust. Audi have been galvanised since 1986, starting with the Audi 80/90 range which was introduced in the autumn of that year.

Service history is important. If there isn't any dealer / specialist history, make sure there are receipts showing work carried out. The 3,2 FSI motor is chain-driven, make sure you start up the engine from cold. It should be quiet,a slight, brief rattle is normal, as the hydraulic tappets and chain tensioners fill with oil. Shouldn't last longer than a few seconds. If it's prolonged, then the engine either needs an oil change, the wrong grade of oil has been used, or the chain tensioner is tired. Replacement of the tensioner AND chains is an engine out job, as the chains are at the rear of the engine.

5w-30 oil is essential, no if's or but's.

The ATF is NOT, and I repeat, NOT the usual ATF Dexron (red) oil. Put that stuff into the transmission, be prepared for heart-stopping bills when it dies shortly after. The ATF is specialist, and either genuine Audi ATF, or Lifeguard 6 MUST be used. No exceptions!

The mileage you state is 100,000. Is that miles or kilometres? Please clarify.

If you own a car like this, I would strongly advise you to get interested in the mechanics and electrics. Buy a Bentley manual - this is pretty much the Bible of modern cars. And decent OBD software - the best, and closest to dealer level is VCDS. Unlike a regular hand held device, VCDS will scan EVERY control module in any modern Audi. The regular handhelds will scan engine only, unless you pay big bucks for high-end equipment. VCDS is laptop-based too, and can code keys, IMMO, ECU, TCU etc. It's the best money can buy for Audi, Seat, Skoda and Volkswagen.

You will notice I didn't mention fuel consumption. This is a high-end luxury sedan, with AWD, and loaded with extras that make driving a pleasure. It is a heavy, well-built car. If you really need to ask about gas mileage, then this car is NOT for you. An AWD car will use more gas than a similar-engined car with 2WD.

Siena:

FSI engines are pretty specialist. It's not your usual EFI, FSI fuel pressure runs extremely high, almost as high as that of a diesel. The fuel lines are larger than normal, and the fuel pump of a normal EFI Audi A6 of the same year will NOT run an FSI engine.

Maintenance is key here. If you're going to use roadside mechanics, or non-franchised garages, then please don't buy the Audi A6!

It is a much better car than the Honda Accord. Class, elegance, safety, innovation - you name it, the Audi has it by the bucketful. And with a galvanised body, you won't find any rust. Audi have been galvanised since 1986, starting with the Audi 80/90 range which was introduced in the autumn of that year.

Service history is important. If there isn't any dealer / specialist history, make sure there are receipts showing work carried out. The 3,2 FSI motor is chain-driven, make sure you start up the engine from cold. It should be quiet,a slight, brief rattle is normal, as the hydraulic tappets and chain tensioners fill with oil. Shouldn't last longer than a few seconds. If it's prolonged, then the engine either needs an oil change, the wrong grade of oil has been used, or the chain tensioner is tired. Replacement of the tensioner AND chains is an engine out job, as the chains are at the rear of the engine.

5w-30 oil is essential, no if's or but's.

The ATF is NOT, and I repeat, NOT the usual ATF Dexron (red) oil. Put that stuff into the transmission, be prepared for heart-stopping bills when it dies shortly after. The ATF is specialist, and either genuine Audi ATF, or Lifeguard 6 MUST be used. No exceptions!

The mileage you state is 100,000. Is that miles or kilometres? Please clarify.

If you own a car like this, I would strongly advise you to get interested in the mechanics and electrics. Buy a Bentley manual - this is pretty much the Bible of modern cars. And decent OBD software - the best, and closest to dealer level is VCDS. Unlike a regular hand held device, VCDS will scan EVERY control module in any modern Audi. The regular handhelds will scan engine only, unless you pay big bucks for high-end equipment. VCDS is laptop-based too, and can code keys, IMMO, ECU, TCU etc. It's the best money can buy for Audi, Seat, Skoda and Volkswagen.

You will notice I didn't mention fuel consumption. This is a high-end luxury sedan, with AWD, and loaded with extras that make driving a pleasure. It is a heavy, well-built car. If you really need to ask about gas mileage, then this car is NOT for you. An AWD car will use more gas than a similar-engined car with 2WD.

kc007:
For the fact that the temperature reaches the mid mark on the meter/guage b/4 dropping down to the 0 mark doesn't suggest failure @ open/partial open position, otherwise there won't be initial shifting of the pointer. What are other features that can be seen to affirm this? Meanwhile i'l observe it for the mean time.

nadico: Thanks for ur good work siena. I just got a 99/2000 audi A6. It did not come with any manual and so far no issues. Its triptronic, how can i get d manual pls and can u get more information about the car for. Vin nos is WAUZZZ4BZXN045791. My email in nnamdi999@yahoo.com

ibrodex: Pls oga siena. I want to know the best coolant fo golf3 2.0 16v.

kunle_j: good day yoga Siena. thanks for or response to my thread on 4 4 7 pin carburetor. well it happened that my supply and return hose were weak and were leaking. it has been replaced and the fuel consumption is OK without having to change the carburetor. the new issue is that I noticed the bearing noise from the engine and my Mech said he will change it along side the con rod. hope it will be OK as I will be travelling with by DEC for about 6.000km. your advice pls. VW vento

Siena:

When you say "bearing noise", do you mean the engine has a knocking / rattling sound? Please clarify.

zigalo: Please I have a Golf 4, I recently took it to a car wash for engine wash and the alternator was damaged. I had a Rewire replace the alternator. After replacement I notice that each I start the car the battery light does not go off until I step on the accelarator very hard which is not the custom before. The Rewire doesn't seem to have a good explanation for this abnormal behaviour. Spoke to other Rewire who said I need to replace the alternator with a 120 amp alternator is not good enough. However the car originally came with 90amp alternator. My question therefore is that is it wise to replace the alternator with a 120amp alternator? It's 1.4 16v engine. Appreciate your feedback