@spyder. Ok. I now understand. Thanks for the explanation.

Spyder,

How body? Good Job my man!

I thought you could cut out the land into 2.
Do a retaining wall.
Dig out a bit to level the middle
Do some basement of few rooms
deck to join the retaining wall and
then do your foundation.

This is expensive and very nice!!!

gtrust:

Spyder,

How body? Good Job my man!

I thought you could cut out the land into 2.
Do a retaining wall.
Dig out a bit to level the middle
Do some basement of few rooms
deck to join the retaining wall and
then do your foundation.
This is expensive and very nice!!!

hmmmm ,the excavated material will be used to fill up the other side.

I have some observations to make,Your job looks good keep it up
1.   I know from the look of it that your soil bearing capacity is high,If you want to do two deckings(first for basement then for first floor),will your pad not be too small to carry that load,I suggest you check that
2.   Also since your palour is a double volume,u could avoid a basement and use the lowest area for that,and use the higher area for the portion that is on the first floor,with that you do not need to deck the building!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!U will just need a retaining wall between palour and the rest of the house,This will only work if the double volume is at the lowest point,you will need minimal borrow material as the cut area will provide all that is need.Let have the spot height of all for corners of the building on ground.Also let see the plan of the building

Very good suggestions @ gtrust and baconline. It might interest you guys that I had changed the size of the pillar rods from 12mm to 16mm to increase the strenght of materials as am keeping all options open. The double level option will be cheaper but the basement option will add more rooms to the house.
The owner will not allow me show the plans, but I am gaining so much from your suggestions, keep them coming guys.

my issue with the pad is its punching effect on the ground,the soil looks over 200 kpa ,and your original pad was not designed to carry another storey ,so if u add another one,then your pad will have to be bigger than 675mm by 675mm.

^^^^ good point, whenever I am doing any house more than one storey, the pad should be at least 900mmx900mmx300mm depth.But this house may not even be made 2 storeyed in the end. The stepped floor seems better in this case, but I am keeping all options open at this point.

spyder880:

^^^^ good point, whenever I am doing any house more than one storey, the pad should be at least 900mmx900mmx300mm depth.But this house may not even be made 2 storeyed in the end. The stepped floor seems better in this case, but I am keeping all options open at this point.

what determines the size of a pad is the bearing capacity of the soil.i did a one storey building with a 1.2m by 1.2m pad.
no vex oh but i really think u could avoid decking that house if u checked your spot height and u have a difference of up to 3m,u will just do some R walls and still achieve your storey building

Vex for wetin, am noting your points and dont miss any opportunity to see all issues from different angles.

We shall stand the starter pillars by tomorrow, fill up the column bases with concrete. We might start forming blocks in the foundation soon.

spyder880:

Vex for wetin, am noting your points and dont miss any opportunity to see all issues from different angles.

We shall stand the starter pillars by tomorrow, fill up the column bases with concrete. We might start forming blocks in the foundation soon.

bros tomorrow we down tools and say no to goodluck,abi u dey support am?

Support what?

Heheheh, dont let these hungry fellas who depend on their daily wage to feed their kids hear you. To down tools is good, I support it and thats why am locking my office in my company tomorrow, probably participate in the demo after telling my boys what to do. But I cannot stop them from feeding, thats why I will allow them work tomorrow.

This your contract is a good one that demands wisdom,
and i believe using PMI methodology of management
will help you a lot to execute this project.

Please watch your foundation,you have two option of solving the issue.
is either you increase the size of the pad foundation or
drive the pad foundation down a bit

sixtus4:

Please watch your foundation,you have two option of solving the issue.
is either you increase the size of the pad foundation or
drive the pad foundation down a bit

what will driving the pad down achieve?

am actually learning alot here,
Spyder, bacon, sixtus,gtrust, weldone!!!

^^^ I was pleased by depth of knowledge of the panel of experts. We are surely learning more.

Men there are some intelligent people here oo, I'm with you guys please don't stop.

Happy New Year to you all Construction Superintendents!!!
Here comes that laborer again with his nagging comments on german flooring.
Now, with the condition as drawn on post #131 by baconline, what will support the german floor at the basement level? Or this is going to be slab on grade? I mean if you look at the retaining wall, will the conc slab not spread over its footing. See how the line just stopped at the edge of the footing. Also the issue of termite and water sipping under will be applicable here too on the habitable side of the retaining wall, isnt it? Abeg o it is just my way of saying one cap does not fill all.

Depending on the height of the unbalanced fill at the retaining wall, I will think some reinforcement in the hollow block wall will help with soil pressure. I will leave that to my Engrs. From the analysis you gave regarding borehole/kanga, you may have a very high soil bearing capacity though.

aseju:

Happy New Year to you all Construction Superintendents!!!
Here comes that laborer again with his nagging comments on german flooring.
Now, with the condition as drawn on post #131 by baconline, what will support the german floor at the basement level? Or this is going to be slab on grade? I mean if you look at the retaining wall, will the conc slab not spread over its footing. See how the line just stopped at the edge of the footing. Also the issue of termite and water sipping under will be applicable here too on the habitable side of the retaining wall, isnt it? Abeg o it is just my way of saying one cap does not fill all.

Depending on the height of the unbalanced fill at the retaining wall, I will think some reinforcement in the hollow block wall will help with soil pressure. I will leave that to my Engrs. From the analysis you gave regarding borehole/kanga, you may have a very high soil bearing capacity though.

the emphasy  was on the Rwall,
1. The Rwall is reinforced concrete
2. The base of the Rwall will still be part of the floor
3. Interceptor drain must be before the Rwall
4. The German floor is impermeable

Aha, thats my point. The concrete slab will just be butting the Rwall footing or even over it. So it will be pouring the concrete directly on grade as opposed to the process of putting it on found walls. I am just pointing this out because it is usually frowned at. It can also be as impermeable for those other issues as well. Thank you.

A summary of the activities of yesterday
standing the pillars

fill up with concrete

now filled

another pillar

Back to the water supply attempt from the well, the digger failed to turn up again, will come in today.
What is the black stuff coming out of the bowels of the earth, coal? Ha! the landlord don hammer, please submit your request for mining permits

starting the block forming

forming

Meanwhile, lets take a tour of our surroundings, the new projects going up in similar ground levels around the neighborhood, I met the engineers handling these jobs and we interacted on the challenges and possible solutions. This is for learning purposes only as each site is different.

So, meet the neighbors!