GAZZUZZ:


Better engine protection VS fuel conservation, that's the summary.

I change a lot of engines every month, and one thing in common with most engine failures was the fact that they had the right oil grade (5W20) but we're hitting speeds as high as 180km/hr on the highways before the failure.

Mile master sold on konga or jumia is not full synthetic, it's a blend, meaning it's semi-synthetic which is most likely a 30-70per mix(30per full synthetic 70 mineral). I drain a lot of oil every day and iv seen the color and the base of the drain pan after the oil is turned out, trust me engine protection is your best choice if you drive aggressively and have high engine mileage.

Read a few reviews here

https://www.nairaland.com/1974986/used-milemaster-5w-30-oil-before

xcitedjay:


Personally had a similar encounter.

My car never went beyond 140km/hr, changed oil to almost recommended grade and viola speed exciding 180km/hr but then the engine failed. Had to replace the engine.

Before I changed the oil to recommended grade I informed a mechanic of my intention and he said I shouldn't that he knows someone who changed his oil to Mobil 1, I think the fully synthetic, whose engine failed within a week.

My advice is if you've been using recommended grade, stick to it. If you plan to start using recommended grade don't just jump from 20w50 to 5w20 except you plan on changing your engine anytime soon. You can do an overtime incremental step down in oil grade.

PS. Yes, it's a good practice to follow manufacturer's recommendations but there are also manufacturing defects that ended up not showing during the testing phase, that's why they do recalls 'sometimes'.

GAZZUZZ:


Just the socket? Cause you can only get a stripped version from an engine.

08023251039.

dandollar1:
the socket and the wires attached to it. I have a new TPS, I am thinking the issue might be from the wires/socket. I stay in Bonny island, so I have almost no access to good mechanics/car electrician. I want to see if I can direct a mechanic/car electrician to change these parts for me. Can I get from you?

GAZZUZZ:


I want to belive your diagnosis is poor, and the socket is unnecessary. I'm sure there's a scanner where you are.

GAZZUZZ:


I want to belive your diagnosis is poor, and the socket is unnecessary. I'm sure there's a scanner where you are.

dandollar1:
yes, I have a scanner. The code I got was P2138. I have two throttle body, complete with the TPS which I bought sometime last year when I had this issue. The problem resurfaced a short while after I changed the TPS. I had to revert to the one I replaced. That's what I have been using till now, and that's why I'm thinking it's the socket that might be the culprit.

Please, does the 2007 Honda accord have accelerator pedal position sensor, APS on the accelerator pedal, or APS=TPS?

mexxy1:


Lucky you. The problem was how they went about the change to the recommended grade and not the product itself like you pointed out.
Your story indicates the change was done using Mobile 1 so I am vindicated. It will happen with any oil if not done rightly.
I guess this clears every doubt about Milemaster oils.
Thanks for sharing.

dandollar1:
I am having an OBD code on my 2007 Honda accord, P0172. It has to do with- Fuel System Too Rich Bank 1.

The code came up a day after I had a mechanic clean my fuel filter because the engine was going off while on motion.

Could it be that the fuel filter was not properly fixed that is why I'm having this code?

There is no black smoke emanating from the exhaust, no smell of gasoline inside the car or in the engine oil, no drop increased fuel consumption...(symptoms of this problem).

I have not noticed any driving issues, but I want to fix it before it develops to something else.

So far, I have cleaned the MAF sensor. I also added injector cleaner to my fuel tank ( these were suggested as part of the could be solutions) .

I reset the engine light but it came on after two days.

I was also having a TPS sensor code(p2138) that was assumed fixed about the same time, so when I saw the engine light again, I thought the TPS Problem was back until I checked and saw it was a different code.

*** Could it be that the fuel filter was not properly fixed that is why I'm having this code?



Please, how do I rectify this problem?
I HATE SEEING THAT LIGHT ON!

sewentybaba:
Am having issues with my honda bullet's ignition. The car refused to start last month, I was advised by my mech to change d ignition, which I did. After a week, similar situation occurred.
My mech told me it's d booster from d ignition.
It was replaced where I bought d ignition at no cost.
After 7 days, which is today, the car refused to start. Am thinking it's the same problem. Pls gurus:
Is it my car destroying d ignition or booster, or something is wrong with d one I bought.

Flyingman:
Greetings guys, how do I fix my battery corrosion issues? I usually see white substances on my -ve battery terminal which prevents the car from starting most times. car starts only when I clean the connector and fix it back. Is it the connector or sign of a dying battery? Have you experienced this before? Kindly assist.

kingreign:


buy one bottle of coke, pour on battery terminals to eat away deposits, then rub a thin layer of high quality grease or vaseline around the terminals. Youre good to go.

lanre2009:
@GazzuZz @luvinhubby: How much can i get a tokunbo replacement transmission for a 1998 Honda Accord (4 cylinder)

GAZZUZZ:


35-40k

lanre2009:


How much will you charge to replace the transmission. Do you have any reliable person we can buy it from. Please reply asap. Thanks

xcitedjay:


Personally had a similar encounter.

My car never went beyond 140km/hr, changed oil to almost recommended grade and viola speed exciding 180km/hr but then the engine failed. Had to replace the engine.

Before I changed the oil to recommended grade I informed a mechanic of my intention and he said I shouldn't that he knows someone who changed his oil to Mobil 1, I think the fully synthetic, whose engine failed within a week.

My advice is if you've been using recommended grade, stick to it. If you plan to start using recommended grade don't just jump from 20w50 to 5w20 except you plan on changing your engine anytime soon. You can do an overtime incremental step down in oil grade.

PS. Yes, it's a good practice to follow manufacturer's recommendations but there are also manufacturing defects that ended up not showing during the testing phase, that's why they do recalls 'sometimes'.

kingreign:


buy one bottle of coke, pour on battery terminals to eat away deposits, then rub a thin layer of high quality grease or vaseline around the terminals. Youre good to go.

GAZZUZZ:

Buy a bottle of coke drink half then pour the rest on the terminals. That's how it's done

whyteboyz03:
My people please help me.... My 2003 Honda accord just started being weird yesterday. Its a V6 and 8 months old . while idling, it jerks for a few seconds then goes back normal. When I try to reverse, it jerks a little then moves normal again. I've never had fuel finish in it . please advice and maintenance required blinks when I start the engine .

GAZZUZZ:


35-40k

diggy4real:


@Gazzuzz....How much does a scanner cost? Wia can one get it in warri? Or PH? Is it easy to use? I.e not sophisticated.
Thanks

GAZZUZZ:


Konga/ jumia/ vconnect

Try theses sites.