lanre2009:


Bro, the manufacturer oil for my Honda Accord 2006 is 5w20, could you please share some of the reservations you have for this oil. And would it be wise of me to use this 5W30 despite the manufacturer specified 5w20. This is my first time of servicing the car since i got it close to 2 months now. Thanks.

mexxy1:


As much as I respect his (Gazzuzz's) opinion, I'll advice in your interest that you stick to the manufacturers' specification on ANY THING or part of your vehicle. If there is any need to do otherwise, they will release a bulletin to that effect.
Note that the Honda ATF Z1 was replaced with ATF DW1 by the manufacturers... Honda.
I've use milemaster 5W 20 since I took delivery of my vehicle in January with no issues whatsoever and I even do my oil changes myself.

lanre2009:


Where can I be this brand of oil in Lagos. And how much does it cost. How many litres will I require to service my 2006 Honda accord.

mexxy1:


I always get mine from konga. They deliver to me at home (I'm in Rivers state) and I usually use the pay on delivery option.
As per the quantity required, refer to your vehicle owners manual.
I have the PDF versions for '01 & '03 Accord, '04 Acura MDX & '04 Honda Pilot (which I use).

mexxy1:


As much as I respect his (Gazzuzz's) opinion, I'll advice in your interest that you stick to the manufacturers' specification on ANY THING or part of your vehicle. If there is any need to do otherwise, they will release a bulletin to that effect.
Note that the Honda ATF Z1 was replaced with ATF DW1 by the manufacturers... Honda.
I've use milemaster 5W 20 since I took delivery of my vehicle in January with no issues whatsoever and I even do my oil changes myself.

luvinhubby:


I would not do that Milemaster thing if i were you.
You do not compare the experience of one who has been handling and driving Honda vehicles for upwards of 10yrs to one who just got one 9 months ago, the effects of wrong use of fluids in engines and gears takes a while to manifest in cars, that it your engine still runs well does not mean some things are not giving way gradually.

luvinhubby:


I would not do that Milemaster thing if i were you.
You do not compare the experience of one who has been handling and driving Honda vehicles for upwards of 10yrs to one who just got one 9 months ago, the effects of wrong use of fluids in engines and gears takes a while to manifest in cars, that it your engine still runs well does not mean some things are not giving way gradually.

mexxy1:


It is not enough to tell someone "do not use" or "I have my reservations".
What is the evidence or proof that Milemaster does any damage to the engine? I have searched online and I'm yet to see any complaint on any forum about Milemaster oil... If you have, please show me.
Until then, please do not give people false information.

Personally, I prefer to use a brand that sticks to it's own name and brand than go for one that could have been counterfeited or adulterated due to it's track record by unscrupulous " business men".

Once again, SHOW ME PROOF!
Thanks.

luvinhubby:

Patiently go through this thread.

luvinhubby:

While bad fuel may not be ruled out, but the fault you highlighted is consistent with TPS.

mexxy1:


.

M P C says:
In a since the non W# of say 30 or 40 in the oil weight # is rated at a oil temp. of 100c or 212F. If you look at your owners manual, since that is the theme that is running through these threads on this subject, you will most likely find that your engine should run a heavier weign oil in a Hi atmospheric temp, Hi load conditions, such as heavy stop and go, trailer hauling, and hot footing the vehicle as examples.

That long sentence being said, vehicle builders must meet ever stricter regs. and average fleet MPG #'s and on and on. Even catalytic converters come into play with add pack chemicals.

1/10 of a MPG average is important to a automotive builders and if a oil will help there average then they will use it. Oil is one of the tools for them to be able to still "have room to build high performance engines instead of all the same HP and MPG ratings among other reasons. It gets complicated and they have engineers for all that,not me.

In nearly every engine stock fill, the oil is a compromise because of MPG and Cafe #'s (I THINK THAT IS THE ABBREVIATION) numbers the Govt. throws in the mix.

All that said in an "unconvincing opinion" maybe, there is a lot of different oils out there that will work in your engine under most conditions. There are also oils that will work in your engine when it is operating outside the normal parameters (very hot/very cold/heavy loads). The manufacturer did not build your vehicle for every condition,they build them to meet demands of the majority of drivers,the majority of conditions, with a average considered life/ milage engineered into the vehicle, at a certain profit to please mgt and stock holders,etc.
You can, through looking at fact, gaining knowledge of oils and engines and other mecanical/electrical/paint etc., make your vehicle last longer/run better/look better if you want too. It will probably take more money than the average driver spends and will take more time to gain the knowledge, (Book, Forums,experts,and opinions(with a grain of salt) to be like most of the people who visit these sites, seeking better than the "average ".
To get back to your origonal question, if you switch from 5w20 to 5w30 in normal conditions, lets say where the oil is tested at 100C/212F then your engine will probably operate just fine and you will lose a little gas milage due to paracitic losses. If your engine is operated in Hi temp/Hi Load conditions and the oil runs above the test temp of 100c/212F you will be better served with the 5w30. If on the other hand, if the engine is run in sub freezing weather, ( I do not know what your owners manual says about the exact cold temp.) then you would probably be better served with the 5w 20 or maybe even a lighter oil, but you did not ask about that.

In my opinion, you would even be better served by a synthetic oil in the "makers" say 5w20 recomendation in the owners manual. The reason is this, weight for weight, in almost all cases, if not all cases, a synthetic oil will "stay true" to it's weight or weight range, in a larger temperature range than conventional oil. That is fact, proven over and over in independent tests and by nearly all synthetic and conventional oil makers. I have not found a oil analysis company yet that would not say the same general statment. That is just one of the reasons most oil makers now offer both types of oil.
Profit too.
It is fact too, after analysis that most,not all, syn. oil has a higher TBN than conventional mile to mile and month to month OCI. That is just one of the tests, run on oil that is important when considering the time to change oil.

Thats my 10cents on the W# ##.

KolaShangOne:
Good morning people.. This thought has kept me awake.. I

I bought a Honda EOD '03 last week and I duly took the car for a scan at @Gazzuzz's workshop and I got codes (P0113, P0135, P0141, P0117, p 0118, p2195). I also got a list of things to change n all..

Yesterday, I was returning to base (pending d time I will get cash for the repairs) and was driving on the Lagos - Ibadan expressway. I noticed that the car SLIPS. Once I drive for about 15-20mins, the car throttle suddenly fails. The car revs but there's no increase in speed. If I pump the throttle, the car suddenly jerks, moves forward a bit, the brakes harden and it stops.

I have to open the bonnet, wait another 15mins for it to cool before driving another 15-20mins. It was a hellish journey.

My experienced Uncle said the gear is bad and needs replacing. That will be pocket draining. I need another angle.

Before I left for the journey, I gave a local guy the keys while I went to do something else. (That's a mistake not to be present). He told me he drained Transmission fluid because it was too much.

mexxy1:
1. dbeshplace says:
It never ceases to amaze me how often folks question oil and fuel grades that are specified in the owner's manual. If it says run Regular, they think it will last longer if they run higher octane, after all it's 'premium' it must be better. If it says run premium, well, the computer will retard the spark (and reduce engine efficiency in a high compression engine) and I can run cheaper regular. I find it almost as amazing as those who don't read the manual at all.
You can say using one weight of oil is better for your car than what the manual says that's a personal decision, but don't try to generalize that for every car out there. Without conducting tests over a long time, on every model out, there is no way anyone can know that.


2. Posted on Sep 16, 2010 4:55:01 PM PDT
James H. Agans says:
at 64 years old, and an avid mechanic I have been around for a while, and have seen the insides of a few motors. To that end I make the following statements. If you buy your car new, do your first oil change at around 1500 miles. After that you can change the oil at about every 5000 miles. Always use the weight recommended by the manufacturer. My father swore by Valvoline, I use Castrol GTX, but most oils on the market are very acceptable. I have been using Marvel Mystery Oil as an additive since I was a young man at the direction of an old seer and I swear by the stuff. This may not be necessary, unless you drive short distances a lot, and produce a lot of sludge as a result of never getting your engine up to temperature.

I do not buy the BS about changing your oil every 3K miles, unless you are running a turbo, or super charger, or unless you are running in the desert.

The key is to be consistent. Change the oil at the manufacturer recommended intervals, (except for the first)use the manufacturer recommended weight, and use good oil, and high quality filters not the stuff you get at the drive through places, and your engine will last a long long time.


Those are two replies from the same forum. The opinions shared there are personal opinions and there is no empirical evidence stated there neither is there a general consensus on the advantages or disadvantages of using any of the oil grades above the other. However, I can deduce from the arguments that 5W 20 conserves fuel and gives better mpg while 5W 30 gives better engine protection 'cos it is thicker but poor mpg. These opinions vary amongst different individuals.
From the opinions there, I believe I am right to stick to the manufacturer's recommendation.
I'm still reading through.

KolaShangOne:
Good morning people.. This thought has kept me awake.. I

I bought a Honda EOD '03 last week and I duly took the car for a scan at @Gazzuzz's workshop and I got codes (P0113, P0135, P0141, P0117, p 0118, p2195). I also got a list of things to change n all..

Yesterday, I was returning to base (pending d time I will get cash for the repairs) and was driving on the Lagos - Ibadan expressway. I noticed that the car SLIPS. Once I drive for about 15-20mins, the car throttle suddenly fails. The car revs but there's no increase in speed. If I pump the throttle, the car suddenly jerks, moves forward a bit, the brakes harden and it stops.

I have to open the bonnet, wait another 15mins for it to cool before driving another 15-20mins. It was a hellish journey.

My experienced Uncle said the gear is bad and needs replacing. That will be pocket draining. I need another angle.

Before I left for the journey, I gave a local guy the keys while I went to do something else. (That's a mistake not to be present). He told me he drained Transmission fluid because it was too much.

GAZZUZZ:


Better engine protection VS fuel conservation, that's the summary.

I change a lot of engines every month, and one thing in common with most engine failures was the fact that they had the right oil grade (5W20) but we're hitting speeds as high as 180km/hr on the highways before the failure.

Mile master sold on konga or jumia is not full synthetic, it's a blend, meaning it's semi-synthetic which is most likely a 30-70per mix(30per full synthetic 70 mineral). I drain a lot of oil every day and iv seen the color and the base of the drain pan after the oil is turned out, trust me engine protection is your best choice if you drive aggressively and have high engine mileage.

Read a few reviews here

https://www.nairaland.com/1974986/used-milemaster-5w-30-oil-before

inze:


. . . like the poster above me has said, the 'local guy' has done more harm than good. Why reduce the quantity of fluid in the transmission? Was it topped or changed? and if yes, with what?

KolaShangOne:


It was way too much and made the car 'drag'. So he reduced the quantity. Didn't change it.

@Gazzuzz Thanks. But couldn't that have been picked up by the scanner? Because it was after d scan didn't reveal gear / engine problems I decided to complete payment.

@luvinhubby how much would that cost?

ryanfletcher:
why would one even think of buying a Honda car instead of go for a Toyota?

KolaShangOne:


It was way too much and made the car 'drag'. So he reduced the quantity. Didn't change it.

@Gazzuzz Thanks. But couldn't that have been picked up by the scanner? Because it was after d scan didn't reveal gear / engine problems I decided to complete payment.

@luvinhubby how much would that cost?

ryanfletcher:
BTW is there no specialized mechanic here to condidently give an outline solution to the problems being posted ,not just the check your wire and a check your shaft...there should be a confident recommendation like " it should be thebrainbox,replace it and bla bla bla".....
lol

GAZZUZZ:


Another misfire.

ryanfletcher:
BTW is there no specialized mechanic here to condidently give an outline solution to the problems being posted ,not just the check your wire and a check your shaft...there should be a confident recommendation like " it should be thebrainbox,replace it and bla bla bla".....
lol

kingreign:

Experts are talking to you based on their researches, real life experiences and also from years of fixing similar issues as yours yet you're failing to see it.
You love being deceived?
I just don't gerrit!
Na wa o....

dandollar1:
luvinhubby, Please how can I get this socket and wire that fits into the TPS for a 2007 Honda accord?