₦airaland Forum

tutuwater:
There is no check engine light. The car is a Toyota Avensis 2004 with 1azfe engine manual transmission. The check engine light is not disabled though. I just observe a lot on my car and plan to know a lot about the car. I would try to generic scan it though to see what codes it would throw out.

Now that you have ruled out any Powertrain codes, we need to look at something else.

Has any electrical or mechanical work been done on this vehicle before the tachometer started playing around? If yes, please kindly provide details. If no, that is not the end of the world. There are things we can still do.

I am concerned with addressing this part of your query: 2. When Idling my car's tachometer fluctuates up and down. When starting cold it can suddenly be high or low. When driving once the car is in neutral the tachometer fluctuates what should I check.

I have the full factory service manual so I can help you if you are the DIY kind of guy.

I am suspecting that you may have issues with this vehicle's grounds.

By the way, a tachometer "an instrument that measures the working speed of an engine (especially in a road vehicle), typically in revolutions per minute."

It needs a way to report that speed to the ECU/ECM/PCM, and that explains why I started by asking, what is the ECM( as Toyota calls it for your vehicle) seeing before going on to further analysis and diagnosis

mayor2013:
This suggests why you want to check a ghost service history. Don't gamble on this sir

Back up your position with facts.

5w30 flows better than 20w50 because it is thinner, hence better fuel economy.

20w50 does not flow as well as 5w30 because it is thicker, hence worse fuel economy.

Why condemn the OP to 20w50 without thorough analysis that proves that is a wise decision?

Not all high mileage engines are condemned to run 20w50!

What of protection when it matters most at startup?

Everything is give an take - which is more important - greater oil film thickness or flow (how quickly it gets to protect moving parts)?

To me flow matters more than film strength unless the engine is certified worn, then the decision will be different.

I know how to check service history for American used vehicles, I just confirmed to a guy who was worried, if ever his timing belt was changed down to the date and the mileage, same for the coolant, the shocks, and a lot more.

I can pull up the same data for the OP

May I know which ghost you have in mind? Sir?

Thank you.

mayor2013:
You ask the "op" to use 5w30 on a ride with 222,145km. ride on sir

My personal vehicle has hit 200,000 miles, and I still use 5w30 and will use it till the engine grenades itself.

But you can teach me why I shouldn't.

I am very open-minded and will consider your suggestions on the basis of its merits.

I know people who have used the same oil weight to 500,000 miles

AutoElectNG:
I need to know the specification of the Mobil Oil that was used.
20w50
5w20
5w30

Secondly, I need to know, before this oil change, was this code there? and the check engine light?

How to find the VIN? check the driver's door http://www.oakbrooktoyota.com/blog/location-toyotas-vin-number/

AmandaLuv, can I have your VIN please, I need to check the full service history with Toyota till the vehicle left America. you can email me at carelectronics (at) nichekonsult (dot) com

All I want is to start with a known good baseline - which is using the correct oil, once I discovered that the oil in use is the wrong one.

I have already alluded to the fact that this issue could have three angles to it hydraulic, mechanical or electrical.

I have also made it clear that I am doing the simple things first.

There are several more steps to follow to determine what's wrong/resolve the issue.

Jesus said:

(John 16:12) . . .“I still have many things to say to you, but you are not able to bear them now."

I am taking the steps one at the time, and I will not progress until I receive feedback from the OP that a particular step I recommend has been sorted out, then we can go to the next.

There is no need to bombard OP with all that I know at a go, or all the steps that need to be followed.

Hope that helps.

AmandaLuv:
Thanks sir im grateful.

My pleasure!

AmandaLuv:
im Sorry. The check engine light has bn there since the vehicle was brought back. The oil level is not low.
Please wats d difference in the two engine oil? Which is more expensive as I just spent money changing d oil.
Sorry for taking up your time.

Good to know that the check engine light has always been on.

Good to know the about the oil level.

5w30 is more expensive than 20w50.
5w30 is what is recommended for your vehicle.

Remember that the VVT system is partly hydraulic in nature, by using 20w50, you are using too heavy an oil weight, an oil weight that is does not meet the specifications around which the engine was designed to operate.

I could recommend deeper diagnostics, but I want to eliminate the possibility that the oil is responsible for the problem first.

You could learn a thing or two from this thread: http://www.rav4world.com/forums/99-4-3-mechanical/165489-sae-5w30-vs-5w40-vs-20w50.html

Or you could run the oil for the whole 5000 miles , then at the next oil change switch to 5w30 so we can see if the oil was the problem.

Before trying something deeper or more involved

AmandaLuv:
20w50

Please drain this oil

Use 5w30 instead

Also replace the oil filter

And let me know if this code still comes up after a week of driving or after covering no less than 500 miles (800km)

But you have not addressed two key aspects of my inquiries -

1. Does this code precede the oil change? Or did it come after the oil change.

2. Is the oil level low?

AmandaLuv:
Thank u so much sir, the oil was changed a month ago with Mobil(4ltrs) and another Mobil(1litre), the odometer reads 222,145. Dnt know the service history. Will have to ask around to get the VIN number cos I dnt know it.

I need to know the specification of the Mobil Oil that was used.
20w50
5w20
5w30

Secondly, I need to know, before this oil change, was this code there? and the check engine light?

How to find the VIN? check the driver's door http://www.oakbrooktoyota.com/blog/location-toyotas-vin-number/

honmusa:
Bros you are throwing parts at issue. This is more less like trial and error cos u are not asking the pertinent questions.You are neither here or there .
Let the OP flush the radiator first cos dirt buildup can cause unesssary pressure buildup with the cooling system ,it is more easier and less expensive to wash the radiator than any other thing .Before u can even conclude on any swap ,physical Inspection is required cos u are dealing with alot of variables.

Thank you

yomingr:
oh yes thank you. I have been in touch with Gazzuzz. I expect his appointment schedule as discussed yesterday.

With him you are in safe hands, that I can assure you.

One more reason why I recommend him beyond the other reasons listed here https://www.nairaland.com/3661728/on-board-diagnostics-obd-ii-questions/13#56605365 is his wise decision to specialize.

One cannot be a master of all the kinds of vehicles that we have, there is too much information to consume to stay on top of the game.

Let me know how it goes.

All the best

AmandaLuv:
exactly sir, that is the code.

P1349 MEANS


P = Powertrain Code (engine or transmission)
1 = Generic OBD Code defined by SAE
3 = Ignition System or Misfire
49 = Specific Code for the Exact problem of this ride, we need to consult the code books to tell us what/which circuit and component is at fault which yields the following information: Variable Valve Timing (VVT) System Malfunction Bank 1 Blocked Oil Valve Filter Detected

The VVT system is partly
1. Mechanical
2. Electrical
3. Hydraulic

The key to finding out what is the root cause of the problem is to identify which of these aspects of your vehicle's VVT is out of specification.

So simple things first, let's eliminate the hydraulic aspect.

What is the oil level? Can you check? And update? What kind of oil do you use? If you have ever done an oil change since it landed in the country? When was the oil last changed? What is the odometer reading? Do you have the complete service history of this vehicle?

Can you email me the VIN so I can check how properly maintained it was - assuming it was shipped in from America?

I might hasten to add, that the P1349 might be responsible for the P030X codes, so we need to concentrate on and eliminate P1349 as that is capable of eliminating the P030X codes.

Call 08. 03. 70. 38. 92. 2

Mazda Engine Seller

Apo Abuja

AmandaLuv:
Hello my people,
Please I have a toyota siena that is guzzling a lot of fuel.
Vvt system malfunction bank 1
Please wat could be wrong?

Please confirm that the code whose digits you have not provided is P1349!

Before I proceed!

P0303 MEANS


P = Powertrain Code (engine or transmission)
0 = Generic OBD Code defined by SAE
3 = Ignition System or Misfire
03 = Specific Code for the Exact problem of this ride, we need to consult the code books to tell us what/which circuit and component is at fault which yields the following information: Cylinder #3 Misfire Detected

The P0303 code means that your engine is misfiring and the PCM/ECU is able to localize the fault to a particular cylinder that is Cylinder #3.

P0301 MEANS


P = Powertrain Code (engine or transmission)
0 = Generic OBD Code defined by SAE
3 = Ignition System or Misfire
01 = Specific Code for the Exact problem of this ride, we need to consult the code books to tell us what/which circuit and component is at fault which yields the following information: Cylinder #1 Misfire Detected

The P0301 code means that your engine is misfiring and the PCM/ECU is able to localize the fault to a particular cylinder that is Cylinder #1.

P0300 MEANS


P = Powertrain Code (engine or transmission)
0 = Generic OBD Code defined by SAE
3 = Ignition System or Misfire
00 = Specific Code for the Exact problem of this ride, we need to consult the code books to tell us what/which circuit and component is at fault which yields the following information: Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected

The P0300 code means that your engine is misfiring but the PCM/ECU is unable to localize the fault to a particular cylinder or to some specific cylinders.

AmandaLuv:
Hello my people,
Please I have a toyota siena that is guzzling a lot of fuel. This car was shipped directly from the US and has never been worked on. No issue with the car apart from the fuel ish and the check engine light on. Its bn scanned and it brought forth code
p0300
P0301
P0303
Vvt system malfunction bank 1
Please wat could be wrong?
Unfortunately the car is in the east as all d professionals seems to be based in lagos.
Please I'll need any professional mechanic in umuahia dat can fix this for me. Not kazeeem biko. Lol

Model year?

adefes:
Please the check engine light on my nissan qashqai 2010 model 2.0 is currently on and the code is P1111. I have tried to reset this but it's still showing. Any serious issues with this code? How do I fix this and can this code be responsible for not getting more than 21mpg within lagos. Thanks

Still working on this!

Please check if there are any codes thrown by this vehicle and report back.

I want to know what the computer sees before saying anything more.

yomingr:

Where are you? If Lagos, please meet Gazzuzz!

J0hnTrevolt:
Please I wish to know if my vehicles fuel consumption is high.
My odometer reads 128 miles and in total I bought fuel of 5k till d car stopped due to d fuel finished.
Fuel of 5k is around 34/35 litres to do 128 mile on toyota avalon 2001 model v6 without AC.
Please is d consumption reasonable or outrageous?

Tnx

Speed influences MPG (more speed, less time to cover the distance, but more fuel spent OR less speed, more time to cover the distance, but less fuel spent)

Hard acceleration reduced MPG

Stop and go traffic affects MPG

Highway versus town traffic impacts MPG

And do not forget tire pressure.

There are other factors like worn spark plugs, clogged air filter, etc

Do you have any stored or pending codes?

Based on the above, your data is incomplete!

The guy above has provided very important information that I excluded:

1. oxygen sensors that have failed can increase fuel consumption by as much as 50%

2. the wrong engine oil will increase engine friction, the harder the engine has to work, the more fuel it uses

3. a compromised cooling system will never allow closed loop operation, meaning you are going to waste more fuel

Get a scan, that will tell us if there are hidden problems that need to be resolved

depair:
Read with your mind open
I have gone beyond trading words neither will i stoop low to be insultive.
Increase your social impact and see that you don't need to continually write call autologic.
If you like call me attention seeker or jester does not in any way change my stand.

Even if you think you older than everyone and am afraid you not it does not change the fact..........

Is this an appropriate comment, I posted it earlier and then took it off, but on second thoughts, I am posting it again.

This guy has a point honmusa.

What is saying is that you need much more than technical skills to make customers accord you sage status.

Many of those patronizing these boards have spent a significant fortune in purchasing automotive technology to move them from point to point.

They want someone who proves that he has mastery over what he is doing, they want someone they can trust, someone who puts them at ease, they depend heavily on automotive technology to be effective and efficient, they don't want unavoidable downtown or mistakes being made at their expense.

They have come to know that mechanics can be untrustworthy, they complain about kazeems, they want you to prove you are not one of them.

They also want to peek into your mind, so they want you to show them how you think, how you approach problem solving solving and that your methods are peer-validated.

They want to know are you up to the task of taking care of today's highly complex automotive technology - are you just good or are you great.

Those are questions that you can help them answer by the way you respond to issues - by always saying come to xyz, that does not happen. There is what is called subtle marketing in which you get someone to do what you want without asking - I think you know as much as I do someone else who has achieved that on that forum and whose name is on nearly every lip - that cannot as of yet be said about you.

By always proposing come to xyz instead of trying to walk them through a solution at a high-level or abstract level you fail to take advantage of opportunities to create that bond between potential client and service provider.

I strongly encourage you to be open-minded enough to give his suggestion a try.

Kingreign has said something similar in so many words or so few words recently.

That guy just gave you free marketing advice.

feelme3:
Oga, I think say the awoof insurance go cover the pay to play o

Anyways, thanks again for the diagnosis. So how do we proceed? Any number to call you? Or can you PM with contact details?
Thanks

There is an alternative professional opinion from a highly respected source who chooses to remain undisclosed at the moment (by that I mean I do not have his permission to disclose his identity) which addresses something I overlooked, you may observe I spent scant attention to the wheezing sound you made mention to coming from around the compressor unit or area.

It reads:

"The temperature on the condenser/radiator went to high that the relief valve on the compressor opened up ( the wheeze sound) and stopped wheezing when the pressure was within limits."

The professional opinion then recommended/concluded:

"I feel she needs a new radiator"

So that is another possibility that we might have to strongly consider.

I came to a different conclusion because I have had to troubleshoot a situation where the temperatures would rise in slow moving traffic or at speeds under 50 MPH, but then there was no wheezing sound. Turns out that the fan that cycles on with the AC compressor has stopped working, so although the vehicle had not been abused, the cooling power of one fan was insufficient to bring temperatures down. But as soon as that problem was identified and rectified so that both fans would work as originally designed, the overheating went away. The difference though is that on this vehicle there was no wheezing sound, as soon as the overheating was observed more than once, the AC was shut down and temperatures came down, the AC was no longer used until the issue was rectified.

Second scenario, different vehicle at all other times, no overheating, but at a stop or in slow moving traffic without AC the vehicle would begin overheating, once the connections were reversed to factory setting, the overheating went away.

So now you have the benefit of more than one expert opinion, so you are in good hands.

shoot me an email carelectronics (at) nichekonsult (dot) com, then I can give your other methods of contacting me if email is not convenient

ghadaffi2000:
Good day,

I just got a Nissan quest 2005.

The issue is that my fuel guage and temp guage meter is not visible. My rewire said that it cannot be repaired unless we buy a new dashboard from Ladipo. Though, other lights are showing and functional.

Well-documented factory fault or age-related problem (either or both) for 2004 - 2009 Nissan Quest vehicles.

Did he mean instrument cluster? is that what you call dashboard?

I cannot imagine replacing the entire dashboard when the fault is localized to the instrument cluster!

Could you share pictures?

If you mean missing pixels in the instrument cluster, then the solution is to replace the LCD Ribbon cable that links the LCD Panel to the circuit board within the instrument cluster and the fuel and temperature gauges on your instrument cluster should roar back into life.

I doubt that the appropriate/cost-effective repair is an instrument cluster replacement not to talk of dashboard replacement.

In other words, this fault is electrical not mechanical.

In very simple terms, when AC is turned on, the load on the engine increases, when the load on the engine increases, more heat is created, which needs to be taken away, that is the purpose of the cooling system which is operates partly on mechanical principles, and partly electrical principles.

The vehicle can run the fans at several speeds cycling faster or slower depending on the demands based on the various inputs the system receives.

Right now, the ECU/PCM/ECM has the ability to control the fan as directed, but that control has been taken away from it by your Kazeem who decided to do a direct connection to the ignition - which as you must have guessed is set to one speed which is sufficient to cool the car without the AC but is insufficient to cool the car when the AC comes on.



It is true that you don't have a thermostat, but the key issue to returning the vehicle to factory specifications is to return the control to the ECU/PCU/ECM ASAP because at the moment it is powerless to respond to demands for additional cooling, as the vehicle was designed, it will keep the fans running at the highest speeds for as long as it is necessary to stabilize the temperatures and then turn them off, that is more effective than a one-speed setting which you currently run, and then we can replace the thermostat.

That is my diagnosis.

If you need me to do it for you, or you need me to provide you the wiring diagrams, or direct you or your trusted mechanic or electrician on the step by step actions to make this a reality, then pay to play comes into the picture.

Do the above, and everything will be back to normal.

feelme3:
1. I used (freezetone) coolant only prior to the AC issue. But since I haven't been using the AC, been using water.

2. No I don't have the removed thermostat but I wouldn't mind buying another one if that will help in solving the issue.

3. The only electrical modification was on the fans (double) which they connected direct. Comes on once the ignition is turn on.

4. Yes there were leaks from some hoses which I have replaced. Also changed the hose clips that were loose.

5. Car has 100k plus on mileage. Has Two belts power steering and compressor I believe. Honestly I don't know about belt change intervals, only changed the belts on two occasions when it cut. Also do my normal servicing every three months (oil change and filter change) I've been using Mobile 20-50w. I don't know if that's okay but I haven't had any issues for the past one year I've been using it.

I don't know about Refrigerant o. I thought that's what's supposed to make the AC cool. AC just dey blow hot air. Will take it to a technician as you suggested. I watched on YouTube to replace hoses that makes squeaky sound when it is squeezed so I had a couple from the radiator that I replaced too.
Car trim is GLE.

I really appreciate your help. Thanks

If I understand what is going on well, at all other times while the AC is not on, the vehicle does not overheat.

I am going to paint some scenarios, I want you to tell me which of them is correct, or if all of them are correct!

The vehicle overheats when the AC comes on for like 30 minutes. Right or wrong? If the AC was not on throughout the journey the vehicle would not overheat? Please confirm or disprove.

The vehicle only overheats when the AC is not on but in heavy traffic. In other words, as long as traffic is free flowing no overheating, but the moment traffic snarls, the vehicle starts overheating. Right or wrong?

buddie:
Oga AutoElectNG,
What code should one look out for a failing ECU when vehicle is scanned? 1996 Nissan maxima has been giving some headache and my kazeem believe the ECU might be bad requiring replacement.

Is the free consultation for Nissan car still available?

Is the free consultation for Nissan car still available? Yes.

I would rephrase the question. What code(s) you have? What symptom(s) or issue(s) is/are you contending with?

Is there any history before/after?

If you can answer the above, I can provide better help.

igbsam:
Its a 2003 Honda Accord and also a 2003 Honda Odyssey Engine. it does this hard start of a thing, gear jerks when it wants to change to 3, it revs whenever it likes and i can't even use an AC cos it would change the engine sound completely making it work at a high pace. Yes i am willing to change its engine to its original, have the wiring re-done cos kazeems have cut and join anyhow,

Hw much should i be looking at here getting its own engine.

Its a V6 2003 Accord.

can we do email: you can reach me on carelectronics (at) nichekonsult (dot) com

I will take care of returning the wiring to factory specs plus engine replacement

igbsam:
Can i book a space with u ? Bought a honda car that has an engine of oddyssey, its moving fine, but wahala too much!

Which Honda? model? trim?

Which Odyssey engine?

What sort of issues is it giving you?

Are you ready to replace the engine with what should have been?

Are you sure that is the only alteration made?

yomingr:
Pls what's the location? I'm delighted about this.

Abuja

feelme3:
Hmm. Reading how articulate your responses are shows that you really know your onions abi ur tools in this case.

To your question, before recently car runs as smooth as butter. Then sometime early this year I experienced the first overheating in traffic. Took it to one kazeem and before I say Kai, Oga we go remove the thermostat. Our weather too hot na why ur car dey overheat. Na so we dey do am. What do I know so I said fine. True overheating stopped for a while.

Then I was driving home one day and started hearing this wheezing sound from under the hood. Turned out to be coming from around where the steering belt and compressor is but I couldn't figure which it was. And sound comes out once the AC is turned on. Two days later the wheezing sound stopped and AC started blowing warm. Even now, without having the AC on I sometimes feel warm air blowing from the vents. And that's where I am with my baby now.

COOLING SYSTEM ISSUES

1. Do you use coolant or just water?

2. Do you have the thermostat that was removed?

3. Can you purchase a brand new replacement thermostat?

4. Other than the thermostat, were any electrical modifications made? If yes, do you know what those are/were?

5. Can you confirm that your cooling system has no leak? hoses or the reservoir if your vehicle uses one or even the radiator itself

6. Do your fans (assuming the vehicle has 2) when the AC is turned on?

7. Do your fans come on when the vehicle is very hot but the AC is not on?

8. Do your fans come on as soon as the ignition switch turns on?

SOUNDS

9. What is the mileage of this vehicle?

10. How many belts does it use? I should not be asking but I have not bothered to check the documentation at this point in time, so you tell me.

11. Do you know the recommended replacement interval for those belts?

12. Have you replaced them according to the specification?

13. Are you low on refrigerant?

14. Do you have a loose hose connection?

15. Do you have hoses that are so dry that they no longer function effectively.

The noise could be a belt problem, or a pulley problem or a compressor problem. Get someone you trust that is mechanically inclined to check, and you can also get a second opinion just be on the safe side. You may need to meet a mech tech and an ac technician for diagnosis as opposed to repair so we can zero in on what's wrong.

If we reverse everything that was messed up, we should be good.

97 Maxima what trim? So I can do further checks for you later.