₦airaland Forum

Next steps - Get the codes.

We will take it from there!

You might have a transmission problem, but further analysis will make it conclusive, until then, this is purely speculative.

How long have you had this ride?

Instead of just copying, you could take a snapshot of the codes when next you meet the guy!

Until then, my hands are tied

deking:
Great and detailed analysis. Keep them coming.

True.

He plays the game the way it should be played.

The solution is not to clear the code because that does not deceive the ECU/PCM/ECM, but to find out why it fails the test and rectify the condition, and when the drive cycles for the evap test runs after rectifying the problem, the MIL will go off on its own.

https://www.nairaland.com/3661728/on-board-diagnostics-obd-ii-questions/3#54617450
What is the difference between a continuous monitor and a non-continuous monitor? When are obd ii monitors activated?

https://www.nairaland.com/3661728/on-board-diagnostics-obd-ii-questions/3#54613469
Can you list the monitors one can expect to find on an obd ii equipped vehicle?

In your case, a/components supervised by the Evaporative System Monitor is/are failing the system integrity test(s) conducted by the vehicle on-board computer, basically, it is running outside factory designed parameters

kniru:
Hello Auto,
Good thing you are doing here, i appreciate this.

My Problem....
I have a honda accord 2008 4cyl,
*i have a cel steady on my dash, anytime i scan the car i get an evaporation issue can't really remember the code, i clear this at the local shop here in lokoja with their small scanner buh once i top my fuel the cel come up.

*i don't know if this is a gearbox problem, but i have neva crossed 180km/hr on my ride, once my rpm goes past 3000rpm my car makes a loud noise like a plane about to take off and it stills does not gain speed, i also get rough shifts too where th rpm gets to 5000-6000 before my gear shifts.

*when i hear this loud noise, i feel loss of pressure via the pedal, like even if i step flat on the pedal the noise just increases without much speed gain.

*i use to get an error "check fuel cap" this shows sometimes and sometimes i just get a CEL on my dash.

please help me out.

thanks
kniru

there are several evap codes.

I need to know which one is responsible P0455, P0456, P0497, P1454 OR P2422 ETC

Even when you clear the code, it will come back because the vehicle has a computer, the computer is consistently running integrity checks on the car, if any component fails, it will throw a code. Read more about drive cycles and trips here where I answered the question: What role do trips play in obd ii equipped vehicles? Why should you care about trips as defined by obd ii? https://www.nairaland.com/3661728/on-board-diagnostics-obd-ii-questions/3#54630269

Please don't erase the codes again, scan and copy all codes and paste here.

What does your current mechanic say about it?

Was it always that way?

Did something happen before you started experiencing that?

What grade of engine oil do you use?

What of ATF?

What is its condition?

Have you ever changed your transmission oil?

Was it drained and refilled or flushed?

In other words, has your transmission ever been serviced?

Does your transmission leak?

If yes, did this loud sound come after that?

Are you heavy on the pedal?If you accelerate very lightly, does this noise still occur around 3,000 RPM and do shifts occur at 5,000 - 6,000 RPM?

Does the vehicle act like it is laboring to move?

If the transmission is having issues, the vehicle on-board computer will sooner or later throw a code.

Let me have the codes, and we will sort it out together.

honmusa:
so you intend to rely on data gotten from cars users to make accurate diagnoses ,try to be realistic for once Na.
You can even be led astray from common DTC code you use your own professional $10,000 scanner to retrieve.
how do u intend to separate the real code from reference codes ??the manufacturer repair algorithms that you so much rely atimes can lead you nowhere ,you need to rely on basic fact from from science to pull though .
.
I currently concluded a fix on a Siena 2004 that the owner complaint is overheating issue After some series of test ,I found that the overheating causes is due to serious misfiring that is happening and I have to performed several test and monitored the car for two days to convince myself that the overheating is not due to other factors .If the same complaints is reported on a forum like this,I am sure the direction of focus will be leak in the system ,clogged ,etc .

Also there is another case of a user of Camry 2010 v6 engine reported issue with performance on this forum before and the DTC code is pointing to timing issue and when the car got to my workshop ,the actual root of the performance issue problem is due to his fan runned direct ,no any anything related at all to anything related timing at all ,this is what is refered to as reference code. There is another case of multiple misfire and vaccum leak reported by the dtc that is actually due to kazeeem
connecting vacuum hose to wrong points .!!!So numerous cases to mention that required an expert physical presence in the line of action that !!!
My main point is that physical inspection is not negotiable in accurate diagnosis
and don't take DTC codes hook ,line and sinker to make accurate diagnosis,they are there as pointer not the real thing.
That you got some right unseen is not always so in real life practice. Atimes you need to monitor ,retrieve numerous data ,take drive test etc and analyses your data for hours to see where the missing links is and what about kazeem variables ??
I am an expert in electrical and computer engineering dedicated to automobile with more than 15 years experience so I should know the missions u are taking about here.
However ,don't let me discourage you if you are hell bent in doing this,probably u have discovered a better way to cover for all the variable mentioned . There is nothing that is impossible !!Fire on !!

1. I have not said that physical inspection is not necessary. I learnt from the whites, sometimes you don't need to be physically present to inspect. You can direct someone who is physically present to inspect so so and so. I have been a beneficiary of help from professionals who assisted me to without being physically present. It is proof that you know the subject inside out to be able to tell what to look out for and that helps to solve the problem without wasting time and effort.

For those that are DIY, I will tell them exactly what to look for.

For those that have a trusted mechanic who is stomped but is willing to consider a second opinion, I am willing to tell them what to look out for.

Countless times, I have been involved in circumstances where a call is placed to the Factory service helpline, the factory personnel is not right there physically, but he can direct the person at the other end of the line to check this or that and in the end the problem is resolved

The avensis in Sweden was physically inspected, just that I did not do myself, but I directed the owner on what to do.

2. I have never said I will not physically inspect. I have a case of a Mazda MPV that will not start, I performed physical inspection and to resolve the issue that is causing the non-start condition involves access to manufacturer information to make certain corrections. Did I physically inspect? Yes. But I will not say, I will not attempt to assist with troubleshooting until I see the car.

That is my position. Obviously, if a vehicle has been abused and altered from factory state, a physical inspection may be necessary and essential to remedy the situation, but in an age of technology, that can still be accomplished via a video call without any need to be physically present if we have a knowledgeable person at that end who has the appropriate tools but is simply at his wits end.

On the other hand, I have already addressed the issue that DTC codes are not a definitive, but suggestive at my thread. However, in an age where vehicles are computer controlled and full of complex electronic components, DTC codes must not be ignored. They must play a part in diagnosis.

It is basically an emissions standard and was initially designed for the reporting of vehicle emission status, but manufacturers latched onto the standard making it the de facto diagnosis and reprogramming protocol

Also see https://www.nairaland.com/3661728/on-board-diagnostics-obd-ii-questions#54360613 where I asked and answered the question:
What is a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC)? And why you should be interested in DTCs! and among other things said:

NOTE: A trouble code by itself does NOT tell you which part to replace. You must diagnose the system, sensor and/or circuit to determine the fault before repairs are made or any parts are replaced.

Whatever manual diagnosis is done, has to be validated in the end by ensuring that the PCM or ECM or ECU as the case maybe agrees that the problem is indeed gone, and that means checking what DTCs existed before the repair and ensuring that those DTCs no longer exist after the repair, hence DTCs cannot be ignored.

I don't deal with DTCs only. I do full service, but I am open-minded.

But I start with the simple things, only after those are eliminated that I go complex with all the electronic/electrical wizardry that is required to solve the problem. If all else fails, and I have to come around, I will.

I proposed to assist with the overheating Mazda MPV owned by Hellustic - the problem could be purely mechanical, or purely electrical or a combination of the two. Suppose the vehicle is in Zamfara, and I have intimate knowledge of the vehicle such that I know what is wrong or could be wrong, must I insist that he pay the cost of transporting me there before I assist with the diagnosis, if he can afford to pay for the cost of transporting me, can he afford to pay for the opportunity cost of dislocating me and my schedules?

I am providing a valuable service, a valuable second opinion and sometimes, I get to solve the problem even when I am not physically present like I did for the Honda accord that I pointed out to in response to a question on my Nissan thread.

If the vehicle owner wants a physical, and is ready to pay for the it, why not if not.

diportivo:
let me use my seat belt then

this journey will be long.....or maybe it wont

Two examples to buttress my point

1. Helped a carowner with strong DIY skills pass emission testing in Sweden
- https://www.nairaland.com/3661728/on-board-diagnostics-obd-ii-questions

2. Helped fix a Honda whose tech spent a whole day fooling around
- https://www.nairaland.com/996664/maintenance-tips-honda-cars/104#54766412

Both issues were resolved sight unseen

Cars have become too complex to repair without some form of advanced and continuing education

troubleman007:
My car throws P0122
Trottle/Pedal Position Sensor Switch A Circuit Low, How is the best way to explain this to a kazeem so he can get it fixed.. thanks in advance guru

Has your Kazeem fixed this issue?

Or you still need some help?

diportivo:
do u mean to aks questions here on nairaland,we will have to pay u

as in,pay u money on a forum u joined for free

I don't get it...my comprehension skills isn't sharp.

help me out

The question will be answered sooner or later.

Whether it is the question that is paid for or something else.

You are not going away anyway soon, so stay tuned.

Somethings you get free, somethings you don't. What I will not give free after the first 10 will be apparent sooner or later.

The forum is free to join, no doubt about it.

What is not acquired freely is the knowledge, the tools and the skills, the access to continuously updated repair databases and manufacturer information and the continuing education to stay current with automotive technology, those cost a fortune, and that is the difference I bring to the table, that the kazeem next door does not.

Plus the ability to directly contact the manufacturer tech helplines for resolution when everything else is tried the problem remains - with all them manufacturers, it is pay to play, not free to pay, and that payment does not stop with the purchase of the car, it continues for as long as you need access to technical documentation, and each vehicle is different, in much the same way, some issues can never be resolved without access to manufacturer technical documentation, which does not come free to play!


By the way, I used to love those square 740 and 760 Volvos. Sadly they don't make them anymore. I will most definitely make a Volvo part of my fleet sometime.

feelme3:
OK boss.
Mine is 97 maxima. Recently car started overheating when I have AC on for like 30mins and it's even worse in traffic. Then all of a sudden it's blowing hot air and airbag light came on blinking and has remained.

Also notice that car drags when I throttled down, like its got an added load on the engine (without the AC on).

Using a cause and effect principle.

What happened before recently....

Scan and post the codes here.

Full vehicle service history prior to this development is crucial to finding a lasting remedy.

I have an idea what is wrong, but I need to know from you what has gone wrong also.

In other words, a fact check/reality check on what is peculiar to this ride that might be responsible for this condition viz a viz what ought to be.

If this issue is as of yet unresolved, I may be able to assist.

Kindly let me know OP

feelme3:
Oga autoelect, June 1 na yesterday. Abi you don change mind?

Posted on similar thread for Honda.

I have yet to post on a Nissan, because no one has brought a Nissan issue for attention except one guy who emailed me and I will post his problem and the fix as time permits.

Meanwhile I have over 5 Honda problems.

If the Nissans come, I will attend to them.

Ask and I will answer.

First 10 Nissans will get recommendations free of charge aka free to play. All subsequent comers will be pay to play.

I prefer the kind of issues that other techs are having problems solving, those are the challenges I love to tackle.

adinoyiM:
Today is June 1 2017.

Yes, it is and I am on standby.

I am considering offering to take over the diagnosis of Hellustic's Mazda MPV that is overheating as our first test case of resolving a Mazda Brand issue.

If your Mazda has issues, please report here.

I prefer to take on issues that other techs are finding difficulty resolving....

Over to you

Ask away....

dandollar1:
@AUTOELECTNG,

Please, I will appreciate your input on this issue I posted earlier on:

Hello bro,

I have been having these codes in my Honda Accord 2007 model that uses a drive by wire system for up to a year now:

P0123
P0223
P2101
P2176

The codes have been coming on from time to time, sometimes in a space of one week, sometimes in a space of one month(as the spirit leads).

Each time it comes up, idle becomes erratic,the engine revs on its own without touching the accelerator pedal, very high idle, and sometimes the car stalls. It jerks when I shift from P to D or R, and when if I drive the car, it accelerates on its on up to 40km/Hr. I can only control it with the brakes, as there is usually no throttle response then.

I understand it has to do with the throttle body assembly. I have replaced the throttle body about four or five times.
The latest one, I had to order a new throttle body online which was fixed two weeks ago.
One week later the codes with its attendant issues resurfaced.

I really do not know what else to do.

I am in an area where I do not have access to a variety of mechanics or auto electricians and I'm just wondering if this fault can be fixed for good.

Please, any suggestion on what could be the problem?

Thank you.


NB:olaboy1 provided some input, which I tried out, but I'm still experiencing the same issue intermittently.
I am thinking of trying another ECU, but i will feel so demoralized if I did and the problem re-surfaces.

I am ready and available to take this on.

Let me know if you are still interested.

Several versions of Honda Accord exist - American, Canadian, European,Japanese, 2 door, 4 door, coupe, Auto, Manual, CVT.

I need to be sure which one you drive

Honda Accord 2016 has the following problems as at today:

1. Fuel leaks from the fuel tank to the fuel pump connection

2. Lost crankshaft position sensor signal due to corrosion in the engine wire harness

3. Engine that will crank but never start due to a problem with the No. 5 meter 10amp fuse

4. Engine rattle at startup for 1 to 3 seconds from a problematic vtc actuator lock pin

5. Popping, squeaking, clunking and creaking noises from the vehicle front suspension

6. Thumping and flapping sounds from vehicle rear when fan at high speed mode and climate control system in recirculation mode

7. MIL blinking, engine intermittent rattling and rough running during light acceleration or a steady cruise of between 30 and 65 mph

8. PCM software error that causes a low pressure problem in the cvt sometimes resulting in a slipping cvt belt and rpm surges when driving at highway speeds turning on the MIL

9. A judder from the torque converter lock-up clutch may be felt while driving between 20 and 60mph. the problem is typically miSdiagnosed as
a bad torque converter. When the true cause of the problem is ATF detoriation from intermittent high heat loads under certain driving conditions

10. A in-dash clock that resets or shows the wrong time likely due to a bad chip in the audio unit

11. Entering web browser text overwrites characters or voice recognition ends before you can speak due to mismatched radio information

12. Delamination issues within an i.c. produced by nxp and assembled into airbag sensor supplied by denso international america, inc. this delamination issue manifests itself as an open circuit within

13. Distorted/blurry rear window glass especially when viewed through the rearview mirror

14. Noticeable wind noise at ear level from either the driver's or the front passenger's window caused by a gap between the run channel and inner sash

15. Regular driving on dirty and dusty roads in dry and dusty conditions can trip on an EVAP code

16. Pronounced rattle noise coming from the rear tray when playing bassy music

Honda Accord 2017 has the following problems as at today:

1. Regular driving on dirty and dusty roads in dry and dusty conditions can trip on an EVAP code

2. Pronounced rattle noise coming from the rear tray when playing bassy music

SirJeffry:
Buy a new car and you don't have to worry about maintenance cost atleast for two years because most car manufacturing coys give that as free package.

Sell off the car after 5yrs, buy another new one and the cycle continues. Most cars don't give stress until after 5yrs. Do this and have peace of mind with automobile.

Almost all manufacturers have to respond to issues caused by miscalculations/errors/unknown conditions/interactions between components in real-world use versus during production/factory tests.

Let me give an example.

Honda Accord 2017 has the following problems as at today:

1. Regular driving on dirty and dusty roads in dry and dusty conditions can trip on an EVAP code

2. Pronounced rattle noise coming from the rear tray when playing bassy music

Honda Accord 2016 has the following problems as at today:

1. Fuel leaks from the fuel tank to the fuel pump connection
2. Lost crankshaft position sensor signal due to corrosion in the engine wire harness
3. Engine that will crank but never start due to a problem with the No. 5 meter 10amp fuse
4. Engine rattle at startup for 1 to 3 seconds from a problematic vtc actuator lock pin
5. Popping, squeaking, clunking and creaking noises from the vehicle front suspension
6. Thumping and flapping sounds from vehicle rear when fan at high speed mode and climate control system in recirculation mode
7. MIL blinking, engine intermittent rattling and rough running during light acceleration or a steady cruise of between 30 and 65 mph
8. PCM software error that causes a low pressure problem in the cvt sometimes resulting in a slipping cvt belt and rpm surges when driving at highway speeds turning on the MIL
9. A judder from the torque converter lock-up clutch may be felt while driving between 20 and 60mph. the problem is typically misdiagnosed as a bad torque converter. When the true cause of the problem is ATF detoriation from intermittent high heat loads under certain driving conditions
10. A indash clock that resets or shows the wrong time likely due to a bad chip in the audio unit
11. Entering web browser text overwrites characters or voice recognition ends before you can speak due to mismatched radio information
12. Delamination issues within an i.c. produced by nxp and assembled into airbag sensor supplied by denso international america, inc. this delamination issue manifests itself as an open circuit within
13. Distorted/blurry rear window glass especially when viewed through the rearview mirror
14. Noticeable wind noise at ear level from either the driver's or the front passenger's window caused by a gap between the run channel and inner sash
15. Regular driving on dirty and dusty roads in dry and dusty conditions can trip on an EVAP code
16. Pronounced rattle noise coming from the rear tray when playing bassy music

Buying a new car does not mean no car trouble. Some of these problems are still being investigated. For other problems, only temporary fixes have been suggested pending conclusion of remediation internal tests at the factory.

bisi16:
Hello Honda gurus in d house.

I drive a 2001 civic. Noticed my check engine light so I scanned it. The scan result came up with p1457 (solenoid valve).

I've checked on d Internet but it's still not clear to me. Anyone know what this is and d likely cost.


Many thanks in advance everyone.

Known Problem

Also applies to 2002 Honda CRVs

We need to check if the EVAP system is functioning as designed

That may involve testing for internal leaks

There exists the possibility that you have a bad EVAP Canister Purge Valve

Is your vehicle manual? Automatic? Or CVT?

Is yours a 2-door or 4-door Civic?

Are you a handyman or will you need expert assistance? Where are you located?

Don't just jump to cost, there is a process of diagnosis by elimination that needs to followed, so when a part is replaced, the MIL goes forever.

That diagnosis will cost you, but it makes more sense that buying parts with no guarantee whatsoever of fixing the problem.

It is only after the diagnosis is concluded that the issue of cost of parts should arise.

Got a late model Honda or even an older model

Is it acting strange?

Tell us about it, if we can help, we will.

...

connkg:
Hello AutoElectng,
Will you handle Honda dealer recalls/ fixes - SRS, floormat/pedal problems, sensor failure - for the Nigerian customer?

That is our intention - to do everything you would expect from the dealership, and to do the same way as if it was done by the manufacturer!

Counting to D-DAY

3 demonstration jobs already lined up.

7 spaces left to be filled.

Does your Honda or Acura have a mechanical or electrical problem that stumps your current tech?

Bring it here.

10 spaces free to play after which it becomes pay to play.

Going live June 1 2017

Learn more about engine oils here: http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/technical-q/136052-motor-oil-all-chapters-inclusive-copy-save.html

Tinyemeka:
Thanks for the analysis.

What's your opinion on the reliability of '05 Mazda MPV compared to Toyota Highlander '03 model please?

I will be back with and informed analysis... might take some time.

But I like to do a thorough job of providing professional advice.

puffpuff:
What category is Mazda Protege( auto transmissio) falls? Pre ford ? ford ? or post ford? Do you have specific of the car? I'm on d verge of buying one. I got no knowledge of it beside d design

Which model year are you looking at?

By the way, from the Forth Generation to the Eighth generation, Ford had input in the Protege and make look a like models.

If you can narrow down the year, I can provide specific guidelines/advise.

1. Mazda is a smaller car company compared to Toyota and Honda. This means that Mazda does not have the deep pockets that Toyota and Honda have.

2. This led to a long-term collaboration between Mazda and Ford so that Mazda could leverage on the research and development financial and technical resources of Ford.

3. Ford forced Mazda to use certain engines and certain transmissions. This included the poorly designed and ill-fated CD4E transmission that come with the Mazda 626 automatic and the MX-6.

4. Around the late 1990s and the early 2000, this ill-fated transmission caused so many failures of Mazda 626 automatics and Mazda MX-6s that Mazda's image was terribly dented.

5. Affected vehicles included Mazda 626, Mazda Tribute and Mazda MX-6.

6. Other issues included transmission abuse by users who tried to exploit the zoom zoom that Mazda promised to the fullest.

7. Inadequate and ineffective cooling secondary cooling for a transmission with inadequate cooling ducts in the very first place. A race car has beefed up cooling and brakes amongst others, racing the Mazda to achieve the zoom zoom without beefing it up was a recipe for its failure in several instances, but the brand was blamed and not the users who erred.

8. Mazda focuses on cars built for performance/enthusiasts, Toyota focuses on budget and value (every Tom, Dick and Harry).

9. Market perception that Toyota's are more reliable and durable while Mazda's are more fun to drive, think of it as the poor man's performance brand, but Nigerians prefer reliable over and above fun to drive.


10. However, Mazda since 2013 is no longer the product of a collaboration between Mazda and Ford, but Mazda all alone, so Mazda can decide in its best interests and not because of the financial, legal and technical considerations due to its tie to Ford. Therefore a distinction needs to be made when judging Mazda between Mazda's pre-Ford, Mazda's with Ford and Mazda's post-Ford when analyzing the brand.

11. The disproportionate influence of so-called trusted mechanics on vehicle choice who may be more biased and less-educated than the general public who depend on them actually realize .

If you want specifics, I can back up all the above points.

Coverage includes Lexus and Toyota
Please come back on June 1, 2017

Please come back on June 1, 2017
Includes Nissan and Infiniti Coverage

obekediamondfuto:
lovely, while others are arguing, u saw a deficiency and sought for a solution, I'm solidly behind u

Thanks

Come back on June 1, 2017

Launching June 1, 2017
Includes Acura and Honda Coverage

tunde783:
Yes, all codes have gone, get as high as 21mpg on highway and fires well.
Thanks.

Good to know everything is working like it should!

elshanAutos is correct.

It cannot be a 3GR

If you doubt it, you need to check the following references:
https://www.clublexus.com/articles/is350-2gr-fse-on-wards-10-best-engines-for-2006/

http://www.superstreetonline.com/features/news/0606turp-lexus-is350/

Never a bad idea to check factory specifications if in doubt, before spending or causing the client to spend heavily or even wasting personal billable time