₦airaland Forum

Landsurveyor:
Have had it up to here!re-wires ripping me off. My gear sticks to one gear,while on drive mode.It gearks when shifted to reverse and drive.The indicator light on the dash board (PRNDS) all lit up at once,but now it doesnt even show again. The gear is perfectly fine.Carried out a diagnosis on the gear.

Based on your last post above, I have no choice but to ask, when you say that the transmission was diagnosed, what equipment was used to do the diagnosis?

Can you get someone with a professional scan tool to re-scan that vehicle and then please post the codes. Clearly some form of physical inspection is required to get at the root of this problem.

But I would love to see what information can be obtained from a professional scan tool to obtain some picture albeit incomplete of what might be going on

Landsurveyor:
Engine has been replaced.Located in Ibadan.

If I get the picture right, this problem started post engine replacement.

In other words, until that singular repair, all went well

Well done!

More grease to your elbow!!

This is your best outreach ever!!!

Keep up the good work!!!!

Following keenly!!!!!

Let's talk.

What's the history of the repairs on this vehicle?

Where are you located?

That engine is between 900,000 and 1,000,000 naira in Lagos last time I checked.

Please try to compare the cost of getting same engine from the states/fixing in the states versus doing the same from Lagos assuming that is the reason for its non-drivable state.

MODIFIED:

I can link you up to a junkyard that I have patronized in the past.

I have not asked them how much they sell the engine but with online prices starting at $800 (or N 292,200.00) to $1,500 ( N 574,500.00) excluding installation costs, I think this is certainly an option worth researching.

There also exists the issue that you maybe getting an engine with pedigree that is almost impossible to do here, since they keep records like the VIN of the donor, the mileage when it was taken out to mention but a few.

GAZZUZZ:
You have no idea how anonymous NL is, return flight + 3start hotel 100k just to spend 15mins looking at a car.

I guess I am also interested in this story

nasonaso:
.

Can I whatapp you

Yes

Whynow:
Thanks . This is live stream data. How long or what's required for complete test ?

Although I know the answer to the bolded, I hesitate to share because I need confirmation that you have done your homework as I suggested before passing across the information you require.

Sometimes you need a background or orientation to appreciate the steps that need to followed to get things done.

nasonaso:
Yes Benin City

I know Benin City.. email me let's see if we can agree on something

nasonaso:
That may not be a bad idea. Honmusa what say you about this issue?

Autoelectricng can I pm you.

Feel free to... when you say Benin, do you mean Benin City itself? My email is on my signature, you can either PM me or email me.

I am restricting my answer to the evap side of your enquiry

Given the question you have asked, I would recommend you read this thread https://www.nairaland.com/3661728/on-board-diagnostics-obd-ii-questions/3#54612233 or worst case, just the referenced page.

I hope that would help.

I should update that thread with a lot more information but I have not found the time, that notwithstanding that page can help you with the knowledge you appear to be seeking.

Some of the information you can glean from that page includes

What is an OBD II Monitor? What role does it play? Why should you be concerned about them?

Can you list the monitors one can expect to find on an OBD II equipped vehicle?

What types of Monitors exist?

What is the difference between a continuous monitor and a non-continuous monitor? When are OBD II monitors activated?

How does the PCM/ECM decide it is ok to run a monitor?

What is a trip?

What role do trips play in OBD II equipped vehicles? Why should you care about trips as defined by OBD II?

Once you understand the basics, you can then proceed to find out the conditions under which your EVAP Monitor runs and then ensure that the vehicle meets those conditions and see if the status will change to test run or test completed.

All the best in your quest for knowledge...vehicle users who are enlightened about the inner working of the automobile are a rare-breed in Nigeria

nasonaso:
Sorry sir I should have updated the house what's on ground. Just a little bit busy.

I feel the issue is still persistent. I got about 1800 worth of fuel on monday when i changed the injectors and today i got about 1500 worth of fuel but coming back, the reserve indicator showed up.

so I will meet the wiring harness and take the wiring diagram with me so we can have an head way . I will do that tomorrow or next.

I will carefully follow your the procedure you outline.

If there is any addition to make sir I will gladly have them.


Thanks once again

Again I do notice this fuel odour when I am driving the car.

The better way to calculate fuel consumption is described here https://www.nairaland.com/4030048/pls-me-o-sienna-2000#60213912, although given the black smoke it is clear fuel is not being burned efficiently.

I think the problem you have is not about changing injectors or any other components, but it is about testing the components and wiring of the vehicle to see if they match factory specs, and reverting to factory specs when they don't.

So far by changing components blindly, you are going to end up spending a lot of money and time doing next to nothing but running around in circles, not a very intelligent way to solve a problem, even if you eventually resolve the problem, how would you be certain that this is the particular action that led to the resolution?

What do you mean by you will "meet the wiring harness"? I used that expression to refer to a thing, that is the mass of wires that run through your vehicle, it seems you are using it to refer to a person. That is not the sense that I use it!

I meant that you need to do a one of one comparison - is the wiring of the car in the same state as it was when it left the factory? If no, then we restore it to factory specifications. But beyond that, we would also have to test component values to be sure they match factory specifications, it is only if they fail that we would replace such affected components.

So ideally you want someone who refers to the wiring harness from factory documentation as well as other operating parameters to take on this task for you.

Are we on the same page now?

nasonaso:
Car doctors, gurus, technical men. A problem shared they say is a problem solved.

I have a Toyota Carina E 1998 model that emits black smoke when rev.

I feel the car was converted from automatic to manual.I love this car but the only issue with the car is the tendency to consume alot of fuel and jerks when changing from gear 1 to 2.

2K fuel can't last me for a hour before showing me the reserve sign. I think if dangote's refinery is opened I WILL WIN THE BEST CUSTOMER AWARD CONSECUTIVELY.

I have met electricians, mechanics but most of them are just guessing what's on ground. I have changed air filter. Service plugs one of the wiring harness decided to put a step down still yet the problem persists.

I decided to run a scan but the guy I met told me there is no port to plug the scan after checking the car.

Gurus, technicals I opened this thread because I want to limit my shares in dangote refinery.

Presently, the car is in Edo state. Attached here are pics of the engine bay

Given the wiring harness abuse on wanton display in the pictures above, you cannot proceed without a wiring diagram, and I have attached the engine management wiring diagram to make the point potent

nasonaso:
Thank you so much sir. I will do just that. I took the car to Toyota service centre they run comot say the car parts nor de market.

Then I took it to another wiring harness he changed my nozzle said the problem has been solved. Anyway, i need to drive around to see if there is a significant improvement.


NB: I did all these before I saw your post.

Please clarify the bolded.

You cannot return a vehicle that has been abused to factory specifications without factory information.

You need at the very least tools like:

1. a multi-meter

2. wiring diagrams for the affected or potentially affected systems, subsystems and components

3. List of component torque values/component test data especially for the potentially affected systems such as for this vehicle:
(a) Factory Fuel and Exhaust Systems repair and overhaul data
(b) Emission Control Systems repair and overhaul data
(c) Ignition Control Systems repair and overhaul data

NOTE: This vehicle is an OBD I equipped vehicle with engine management functions handled by a non-OBD II compliant TCCS unit, so no OBD II Scan tool can help you out here.

You will also need to eliminate all non-factory modifications and return to stock configuration.

I have attached samples of Factory Information to help you appreciate what I mean.

If the techies you worked with so far did not consult factory information, they were flying blind and decided to take you along their merry go round hence you find yourself in this situation

I would hasten to add that nothing teaches you how to fix a vehicle/how vehicle systems and subsystems work than restoring a vehicle whose systems have been abused to factory state...are you up to the challenge?

Seen.

Fuel Air Mixture off the charts

Excessive fueling

Fuel management system operating in inefficacious mode... probably due to abuse?

First things first, return vehicle to factory settings

Then troubleshoot concentrating on

1. Fuel Injection Control subsystems/components

2. Air Metering Control subsystems/components

IF THE ABOVE TWO SYSTEMS DO NOT FIX THE PROBLEM THEN DIAGNOSIS WILL NEED TO BE EXTENDED TO COVER

3. Ignition control subsystems/components (particularly timing)
4. the electrical/electronic management over both systems (the wiring to and fro all the above and the ECM/ECU)

Good luck.

Extract from your vehicle repair manual attached for reference

ggakunna:
Thanks Bro...you have been very helpful. I would have given up if not for you guys here.

What can you say about this "hard start" issue? and "fuel pump check valve" that the mechanic proposed was the problem?

The First guy did the job actually.

See what Factory documentation says attached

I will email you the procedure for troubleshooting, you can pass it on to the guy

Attached an image for the fuel pump showing the fuel pump check valve for another vehicle

ggakunna:
Good evening..
The mechanic has been successful so far. The codes has cleared...No more black smoke... The only thing remaining is to solve the problem of "hard start" when engine is hot.... According to him, to do that he needs to buy "fuel pump check valve". He has asked around in other to purchase it but none of the shops seems to have it for now and he is looking to call Onitcha for them to send it down if he couldn't get it here.

Congratulations so far...which of them, the first guy or the KIA guy?

Further evidence for my position to approach the problem methodically instead of giving up in despair, chickening up and getting a pittance for the vehicle

GAZZUZZ:

a new replacement fuel pump assembly is better than a used one

Nothing destroys new fuel pumps like the combination of a new fuel pump and a constricted fuel filter, hence I would advise to save up and buy the complete fuel pump assembly and going forward refuel at 1/4 tank to allow the new pump last as long as it was designed.

Adopt the above recommendation

nurey:
Original new is better, but I guess tokunbo too will get the job done if it is in quality condition

Seconded!

OBD II DTCs tell you where a problem is, they don't tell you what the problem is.

There are no different from you going to a doctor and telling him "my shoulder hurts"

The doctor still has to do diagnostic tests to figure out if your shoulder hurts because of turn rotator cuff, arthritis, neuropathy, etc

Above modified from JimZ comments on thetruthaboutcars website posted September 15, 2017 11:35 am

OBD II DTCs also help with starting to figure things out or with determing the severity of the issue
Above modified from gtemnykh comments on thetruthaboutcars website posted September 15, 2017 12:28 pm


So while a few mechanics may dismiss OBD II DTC codes as being irrelevant and a technician's physical checks as being relevant, the truth of the matter is that just as a doctor asks you how you feel and uses that as a guide to narrow down possibilities and courses of action, it is a combination of DTC codes and the expertise of a trained techie that is required to complete the diagnostic process which explains why so many times the question is asked: "Scan and post codes"

bizzle2:
No i don't use an amplifier, I run a stand alone unit.
A Sony Blu Ray home theatre system and out of the box, the sound quality is craaazyyy. Very deep bass, Crystal sound . The unit is amplified though
I however had to buy directional wall speaker mounts to be able to mount them at the perfect wall height and direct the audio from all three walls. Will post a picture later.

Love to see it!

I have been following silently

I am a audio enthusiast...not just any audio...but HIFI audio

May I ask if you don't mind...clearly you don't have those crap sounding home theater units at home

What amplifier do you use at home? Do you do separates or single (all-in-one)? Which loudspeakers? And does your wife not mind that you are taking your love for clean and clear and crisp audio into an obsession?

Really curious if you don't mind

As promised, I have sent you the information you need, it may be the course of wisdom to delete your email above to avoid spam, which is why I have not quoted you

ggakunna:
Wow....Am honored brother. Am honored.....Am honored.....I wish I understand a thing or two about cars...Am mesmerized. I thank you very much for your concerns. I will definitely pass this on to my mechanic (the man that scanned the car). I met him today in his workshop and he told me (he was quite confident in the way he spoke unlike the "kazeem" that said I need to buy "half and top" engine) that by Tuesday I should come and "carry" my car.

I psyched him by telling him about my online experts/friends and showing him all your submissions and comments. He was impressed that someone on this forum could recommend him. My fear now is that he is charging me as "low" as 25k payable only when he is done with the car on tuesday. Tuesday? this car has been in the other mechanics shop for 3weeks now. And considering all the "faults", I feared it will drain my pocket, hence my "selling" comment...He only told me to buy oil that the one in the car is as black as charcoal and as watery as distilled water (I confirmed this myself as I was surprised).

To your question my brother, the engine was not changed neither was the transmission to the best of my knowledge. Concerning the abuse, I left the car for my siblings in Lagos when I moved down to Ebonyi for a faculty Job change. Since the economy is hard and the ASUU strike is on going and the government may start "no work no pay" soon, I decided to bring the car down here over 2 months ago.

Open circuit means an incomplete circuit, so current does not flow end to end as designed...and so the circuit functions abnormally

Short circuit means two unrelated wires have come in touch with each other...in local parlance...bridged, causing unintended operations

Your fault will most likely be either

Only in a worse case scenario which I very much doubt will you have to replace the components on account of their being faulty

There are tests to determine if such is necessary and if the guy is knowledgeable enough I can pass on the information you need via email so you and him can work through the required tests to narrow down your options.

The issue is not how much you are charged as much as it is how he goes about doing the diagnosis...and whether he will follow factory recommendations are not

Now let me try to put your mind at ease.

You have 6 DTCs

Three of the DTCs are related (P0110, P0115 AND P0120) and whenever they turn up at the same time, it is most likely that you have an open circuit at the Sensor Ground E2 will most likely be resolved by one remedial action.

That leaves us with just 3 more codes - P0100 and P0710 and P1600 which can all be tackled individually by comparing electrical values with factory specs to determine where there is an open or short or a failed component and if there is an open or short (fixing the wiring harness with that problem) or where there is a failed component, replacing the failed component

My money is on electrical wiring harness issues...Did you replace the engine or the transmission, what work was recently done to this vehicle resulting in such massive abuse to its electrical wiring system?

In competent hands, in less than 3 to 4 hours, all these issues will be history.

I would start with fixing P0115 and hope that also fixed P0110 and P0120, where it does not fix them, then I will go ahead to fix them one by one. This is because the ECT input is so crucial to the ECM operating close to its design parameters and overall vehicular function.

Then I would move to P0100 (because of its role in air/fuel mixture) and P0710( I don't want the transmission to self-destruct, the ECM/TCM needs to know the temperature of the transmission fluid in addition to the inputs from other sensors within the transmission to make intelligent instead of misguided shifting operations) and finally P1600.

Good luck in your search for a solution and accept my sympathies over your loss of two dear souls, may God provide you the comfort you so badly need at this time.

P1600

To resolve this issue, we have 2 areas to investigate:

1. Open circuit in the backup power source circuit
2. ECM

That investigation will narrow down what went wrong, and consequently what needs to be fixed to cause this code to disappear

More electrical than mechanical

P0710

To resolve this issue, we have 4 areas to investigate:

1. Open circuit in the ATF Temperature Sensor circuit
2. Short circuit in the ATF Temperature Sensor circuit
3. Faulty throttle position sensor circuit
4. ECM

That investigation will narrow down what went wrong, and consequently what needs to be fixed to cause this code to disappear

More electrical than mechanical

P0120

To resolve this issue, we have 4 areas to investigate:

1. Open circuit in the throttle position sensor circuit
2. Short circuit in the throttle position sensor circuit
3. Faulty throttle position sensor circuit
4. ECM

That investigation will narrow down what went wrong, and consequently what needs to be fixed to cause this code to disappear

More electrical than mechanical

P0115

To resolve this issue, we have 4 areas to investigate:

1. Open circuit in the Engine coolant temperature circuit
2. Short circuit in the Engine coolant temperature circuit
3. Faulty Engine coolant temperature circuit
4. ECM

That investigation will narrow down what went wrong, and consequently what needs to be fixed to cause this code to disappear

More electrical than mechanical

P0110

To resolve this issue, we have 4 areas to investigate:

1. Open circuit in the intake air temperature circuit
2. Short circuit in the intake air temperature circuit
3. Faulty intake air temperature (which is part of the mass air flow sensor meter)
4. ECM

That investigation will narrow down what went wrong, and consequently what needs to be fixed to cause this code to disappear

More electrical than mechanical

P0100

To resolve this issue, we have 4 areas to investigate:

1. Open circuit in the mass air flow meter circuit
2. Short circuit in the mass air flow meter circuit
3. Faulty Mass Air Flow meter
4. ECM

That investigation will narrow down what went wrong, and consequently what needs to be fixed to cause this code to disappear

More Electrical than mechanical issue here

UPDATED

with wiring diagram

Don't be in a hurry to start thinking of selling the vehicle - in this state you cannot even get N500,000.00

I have no problem with old school analysis...but vehicles have evolved...to fix vehicles today you need to combine old school analysis with new school analysis ( read that to mean computer aided diagnosis)

Here is what Toyota itself recommends:

See pictures attached taken from your vehicle's Factory Service Manual

Why don't we go scientific, systematic and methodical?

Or would you prefer to fling it off for 200,000.00 to 400,000 and someone will spend less than 300,000.00 to put in back in shape?

By the way, any attempt to solve the myriad issues without referring to factory information is doomed to fail, that I can verily assure