₦airaland Forum

GAZZUZZ:
Is that how I taught you to narrate a story?

Oya go back and start again

story is coming....make I rest small

I am in Abuja

Using a 3.3L V6 powerplant

at Onitsha asaba bridge head

left at 6.21AM

Which route and why?

Tochiokoye:
thanks brother, the car is OK after a mechanic worked on the engine. The only problem is the fuel consumption which is still high.. I believe this will be sorted out wen I change the coils and the OCV which is leaking

Hope no more codes!

There are scanners and there are scanners.

Any autoist worth his salt will tell you that there is a marked difference between what an aftermarket tool can access and what a factory scan tool can access, actuate and generally do.

The reason is not far-fetched. The technology has to be licensed from the auto manufacturers and their is no incentive on the part of the third-party guys to license everything that can be licensed because it was greatly increase how long it takes to break even.

Now the question is - Given the cash crunch Nigeria faces, what would you consider a reasonable and appropriate pricing and affordable price point for factory level aka dealership grade scanning?

Please provide your input so we can determine what the market is comfortable with.

I was monitoring a radio program yesterday and several callers complained that they want to patronize the educated techs but their charges are so unwelcoming so they run to the roadside guys and hope and pray for the best.

I will appreciate your input into this market research.

If you provide reasons to back up your positions, it will be all the more helpful as we gauge the feel of the market.

yomingr:
Thank you once again. Did I mention that I did replace the catalytic converter with a new one as well as both sensors! At first, it was the heater sensor that threw a code which was replaced, then the o2 sensor threw a code and it was replaced too. Then after the p0420 came on again. I guess either the converter or the sensors replaced is not compatible. That's y I want to opt for the defouler. And that content "he pored in the tank?"

Seen, been rather busy, will see how we can work this out very soon

thebigkendo:
Bros u did not post anthing factual either, Just same tales by moonlight..

The Toyota 0W20 is designed to be as light as possible at typical start-ups and especially for use in Toyota's hybrid vehicles.

The Toyota 0W20 VI is one of the very highest, 216, compared to Mobil 1's much lower 173. Toyota's 40C cST is 37.38 cST compared to Mobil's 40C 44.8cST. ( Lower is much better here )

Toyota's 100C is 8.54 cSt compared to Mobil 1's 8.7 cST.

In addition, the HTHS of the Toyota 0w20 is 2.6 compared to Mobil 1's 2.7.....and the AW package is much better also.

What the numbers all mean is that the Toyota 0W20 synthetic is about 35% lighter than M1's 0W20 at 0C (32F) and 25% lighter at room temperatures. These factors all combine for easy starts and less wear for the frequent start/stop operation of the Prius ICE ( and other Toyota's where it's specified for use ) and for maximum fuel economy.

There have been many UOA's that substantiate it's durability up to 10K and that it protects very well.

It's an excellent oil for use in all Toyoa;s Hybrids and other non-hybrid engines it is spec'd for.

Credits: I don't claim credit copied! But see also https://priuschat.com/threads/toyota-oil-vs-mobil-one-oil.103907/ and don't forget that Toyota says you can use any oil provided that it is ILSAC CERTIFIED.

If you read those links enlightened people have opted for a package whose contents are explicit and so can be compared from time to time, if it changes you know, if it stays the same you know.

Other enlightened people have decided to go by the brand instead.

A matter of choice and taste BUT then thebigkendo is right in so far as there is no breakdown of the contents, personally I would go with a brand whose contents I can inspect or form a conclusion on.

Your car, your choice!

autotrader2:
Bros, with the kind akpako grammar you are blowing here, please don't mistakenly blow up your production process o!
I stand by my words. Cheers

thebigkendo is correct this time around

https://priuschat.com/threads/genuine-toyota-motor-oil-vs-mobil-1.168201/?_e_pi_=7%2CPAGE_ID10%2C8846626491

POST MODIFIED
Same factory? Yes
Same formulation? No.
Same quality? Yes

Toyota has a formula which it presented to Exxon Mobil, Exxon Mobil brewed the oil to Toyota's specifications.

Toyota specification is MOST CERTAINLY NOT THE SAME as ExxonMobil's

It is a misconception to think that same assembly lines means same products or formulations,to that extent, I agree with the learned objection and submission of the guy with the production firm experience

AutoElectNG:
V6 or i4

Do you record the mileage when you change the oil and when this drastic reduction in oil level is noticed?

Highway driving? Town driving?

What is the mileage of this ride?

?

popplm:
I have this used Honda EOD 2003 bought (Nigerian used) recently. I notice the engine oil reduced to half at just 4 weeks of constant used and the former owner told me he just serviced with 4k Mobile Oil because of that my mechanic suggested I should service with Total oil of 4k. I did that and at just 3 weeks now the engine oil reduced to half again. There is whitish smoke only when the car is raised. I want to know if I am using the wrong engine and maybe there is a sensor causing this.

V6 or i4

Do you record the mileage when you change the oil and when this drastic reduction in oil level is noticed?

Highway driving? Town driving?

What is the mileage of this ride?

yomingr:
Thank you for checking in. Unfortunately I still have the check engine light on after replacing the o2 sensors.I plan to get the defouler to see if it ratifies. Yes the car has gained power on jet off and gear performance is 10/10. the code is still p0420

Good to know.

You were in safe hands then.

If the cat is bad, do you plan to replace it or you are ok with the defouler trick?

POST UPDATED/MODIFIED July 6, 2017

The problem with the vast majority of Nigerian mechanics is not understanding at the theoretical level how things work which is a prerequisite for careful, systematic and high quality diagnosis.

Here is my gift to you - yomingr : if you better understand the process, the system, the sub-systems and the interrelation between them, you will be better able to solve issues that arise when:

If your cat has not been hollowed out, why not try the suggestion in this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5icTmYItwiE and read this writeup at the link below so you better appreciate what is going on behind the scenes, a precursor to a repair that will permanently turn the code off for good.

http://www.siennachat.com/forum/32-problems-issues/7041-engineering-analysis-p0420-p0430-catalytic-efficiency-code.html

Have you seen the latest Mazda Advert?

Through 50 years of engineering innovations that began with the 1967 Cosmo Sport, one thing is clear: Mazda will never stop challenging convention.

Did you know that 2011 - 2013 Honda Odyssey's suffer from a factory fault that became the subject matter of a legal case, not just a legal case, but a class action and that as a consequence of the settlement of the case, American Honda had to institute a powertrain warranty extension to 8 years from October 2013 with unlimited mileage from the original date of purchase.

You can read more on it at www.enginemisfiresettlement.com.

What happens is that the MIL would come on with DTCs P0301 thru P0304.

The repair procedure is different for 2011 models and 2012 - 2013 models respectively.

For the 2011 model, diagnosis might involve updating PCM software, replacing affected spark plugs, cleaning pistons and replacing the piston rings.

For the 2012 - 2013 models, diagnosis excludes updating PCM software, but includes replacing affected spark plugs, cleaning pistons and replacing the piston rings.

Here is the gist of the case by the way:


This Litigation is about Engine Misfire and its symptoms and causes in the Settlement Class Vehicles (i.e., 2008-2012 Honda Accord, 2008-2013 Honda Odyssey, 2009-2013 Honda Pilot, 2010-2011 Honda Accord Crosstour, and 2012 Honda Crosstour, equipped with a 6-cylinder engine with Variable Cylinder Management (“VCM-2”)). The Engine Misfire at issue generates one or more of the following vehicle diagnostic trouble codes (“DTC”): P0301, P0302, P0303, or P0304.

The Named Plaintiff, Vince Eagen, alleges that the engines in some Settlement Class Vehicles suffer from Engine Misfire and related symptoms and conditions, including premature spark plug fouling. Plaintiff claims that Settlement Class Vehicles have a defect and related conditions that AHM should have disclosed and/or remedied, at no charge, under warranty.

AHM expressly denies the allegations in the Litigation, denies that it has engaged in any wrongdoing, and specifically denies the claims described above and asserted in the Litigation. The parties agree that there are no safety concerns with the Settlement Class Vehicles. The Court has not decided who would win the Litigation if it went to trial.

There were other claims alleged in the original Class Action Complaint and the First Amended Class Action Complaint that have been dismissed and are no longer part of this settlement.

You can read all of Plaintiff’s allegations in the Second Amended Class Action Complaint available here (http://settlement-claims.com/enginemisfire/Portals/0/Documents/09-11-2013_Proposed_Class_Notice-Exh_C_to_Settlement_Agreement%5BAs%20Filed%5D.pdf) on the settlement website.

Key Take-Homes:

Always do a VIN check before purchase

Honda has updated the oil type to Full Synthetic 0W-20 for the engines in the above named vehicles

A service manual is not enough, things might have changed along the line.

shampooh:
Pls sir I want to buy a mazda 6 2004 model what do you advice sir and what do i check importantly before purchase , I want to use it for uber transport service thanks sir

I want to be very objective here, and that would mean present me with a minimum of 2 choices, that is mazda 6 2004 and another brand and model preferably of the same year.

Then we can compare and contrast.

All the same, I could give you off the cuff objective as opposed to subjective advice.

1. check out the model you are interested in at TrueDelta's website

2. check out the model you are interested in at CarComplaint's website (very reliable source - gave the award "Seal of Awesome"

3. check out the model you are interested in at AutoExpress's website

4. check out the model you are interested at RepairPal's website (according to this site, the vehicle won 200 awards)

5. "It's always a good thing to research the vehicles ur interested in before buying" Quote lifted from here http://forum.mazda6club.com/newbie-section/214502-what-known-problems-2004-mazda-6-s.html, another valuable resource

6. But see also the article "What to look for when buying a used Mazda 6 at the samarins website

7. A VIN check to determine vehicle service history

8. Physical pre-purchase inspection

The benefit of going methodical and scientific in the analysis of the decision to buy or not to buy a car is as follows:

1. Proactive rather than reactive maintenance - You can take not of all the issues the ride has and at what mileage, better preparing you for a stress-free ownership

2. Knowledge is power: You can relate with knowledge and intelligence to your mechanic, and if your background knowledge proves he is incompetent, you can fire him knowing that your decision is sound, on the other hand, if he proves that he knows his onions, your interests are better served sticking with him. No mechanic will talk down to you. If your mechanic loves clients take their time to properly understand the vehicle they drive, then you guys would be a match made in heaven. If your mechanic feels threatened by the intimate knowledge of the vehicle that you possess, you will also know, and decide as appropriate if you wish to continue with him or not.

If you want my professional opinion, all things considered, that would set you back a few bucks which is a reasonable exchange of value for expert time, however, I have provided you with enough information to guide you to a rational and reasonable choice, a defensible one, not based on anecdotal evidence or unverifiable hearsay or a biased professional opinion.

The above process is what I would recommend with respect to the purchase of any vehicle.

A car is going to cost you money to run, let the decision be based on cold calculated logic and not runaway emotions AS WELL AS your intended utility from the ride.

Bizzyliss:
Bro pls my Acura TL 2006 doesn't rev past 3000 and sometimes rev past 3000 to 5000, it also jerks after the first gear and den it consumes fuel. I scanned it as it shows some kinda sensor problems

What does the car computer aka brainbox see?

What kind of sensor problems?

Be specific?

Please post the DTCs i.e., Diagnostic Trouble Codes?

I'll take it from there

Did you know some 2015 and 2016 Honda CR-Vs replacement engine block assemblies were manufactured with the incorrect pistons (that is to say a direct injection engine block was used in place of a regular port injection engine block) with the result that the user will have a Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) come on or engine damage

The only way out is to inspect the pistons and if found to be the incorrect application, then the replacement of the following is mandatory:
1. the cylinder block,
2. the cylinder head,
3. the air fuel ratior sensor,
4. the secondary heated oxygen sensor as well as
5. the front catalytic converters
6. the floor catalytic converters

A total of 16 2WD and 4WD suffer from this misfortune, if you imported this vehicle to Nigeria as tokunbo, pray that your VIN does not fall within the problem batch.

Morale: Always do VIN discovery before vehicle purchase, you can save yourself a ton of grief!

mayor2013:
Update engine finally started. Viola!!!

I knew you would do it, beers and pepper soup from madam a must tonight!

Why not replace the 3GR with 2GR in the thread title?

Good luck

The biggest enemy an engine has is "foaming" of the oil, which occurs when there is too much oil for the pump to handle effectively. Instead of pumping a fluid stream of oil, the pump delivers a foam, made mostly of air, mixed with oil. When that occurs, the viscosity (thickness) of the oil is reduced, basically to the thickness of water, and is squeezed out from the bearing surfaces. Even 1/2 quart overfilled CAN produce this effect, especially in today's faster RPM engines. - Glenard Munson, ASE Certified Tech since 1971

Foaming can arise from too much oil

Foaming can also arise from oil which is too thick

In either case, lubrication is compromised and the strong possibility of catastrophic engine failure in tow

yomingr:

Has your issue been sorted out?

Just checking up on you!

Got a 2013 Odyssey or 2013 Pilot 2WD or 2013 Pilot 4WD that has any or more of the following DTCs

1. P0301 THROUGH P0304 (Number 1 - 4 Cylinder Misfire Detected)
2. P3400 (Rocker Arm Oil Pressure Switch B)
3. P3497 (Rocker Arm Oil Pressure Switch C)

What sort of engine oil do you use?

Honda recommends Full Synthetic 0W-20!

If you used 20W-50, the read up this https://www.nairaland.com/3842959/need-professional-advice-n-mechanic/2#57373510 and prepare for expensive and extensive surgery to replace the relief valve spring.

Thicker oil is harder to pump, being harder to pump, since pressure is the resistance to flow, the oil pressure will rise beyond factory tolerances causing abnormal behavior.

In the instant case, DTCs P3400 and P3497 are set because of the
high oil pressure measured at the VCM spool valve. High oil pressure causes the VCM spool valves to activate,
causing cylinders 1 through 4 to go into cylinder cut mode even though the ECU did not activate the VCM spool
valve.

Don't second guess the manufacturer, use the correct oil viscosity!

I have the service manual for your vehicle, contact me via email, it should be of use to you since most techs are not well-versed in the vehicle

tunax5loon:
Thank you boss for the swift reply. I have not been able to login since hence i would have replied these wonderful questions.
1. There is no oil leak.
2. I only drive from home to office everyday.(abt 5mins) sometimes I drive around town to buy things. My traveling which is majorly from Abeokuta to Ijebu Ode is just once in a month.
3. The fume is white and it only come out when I raise the car at rest but doesn't come out when i drive.
4. I use 1 ltr of Total 20W50 for topup
5. I am using Total 20W50
6. The cap doesn't specify anything and my car manual is written in dutch.
7. I will sure check the mileage sir. i will also do a scan and get back with the result sir.
Thanks once again.

1. Are you saying the engine is as clean as a surgeon's table no dirt i.e., a mixture of oil and dust or soot?

2. Cars don't like such short trips by the way, at least 30 minutes so the engine oil warms up to operating temperature and boils off the condensation is better. What distance do you cover when you travel in miles or KM?

3. This white smoke you speak off, does it occur when you start the car in the morning? And does it dissipate into thin air when the vehicle has warmed up? How did you arrive at the conclusion that " it only come out when I raise the car at rest but doesn't come out when i drive.
4"? Did someone tell you or someone else drove and you observed?

4 and 5. How much engine oil do you add when changing the oil? See also http://www.automobile-catalog.com/oil_coolant_capacity/2003/1669790/mazda_mpv_2_0_mzr-cd.html

6. I will try to get you a copy of the manual in English. I will try, I did not say I will absolutely get it, 50% chance of success, 50% chance of failure, let's just see how it goes.

7. awaiting your feedback

semochendo1:
Pls anyone with this gear should contact me on 07065308183.

Will appreciate anyone with similar gear problem experience and how much it costs.

thanks

Call 08 03 70 38 922

tunax5loon:
Good morning sir and happy Sunday to you. I use a Mazda mpv yr 2000, 4plug,and manual drive. The major problem I'm having with it right now is that the oil get short often. I always service the engine every 2 months sometimes every month despite the fact that I don't really travel. I am using total oil. Sir, what could be the problem? Ppl are telling me about ringing the engine.

Any noticeable oil leaks? In and around the engine?

How much distance covered between oil changes?

Color of exhaust smoke from tailpipe?

What is the quantity of the oil required at each top-up?

its an OBD II certified vehicle, do a scan to check if there are underlying issues the ECU has detected and report

Are you using 20w50?

What does the oil cap specify?

What's the current mileage versus mileage when purchased?

mayor2013:
Picture of ground connections in the electronic manual

Bravo!

This is why the days of Kazeem are numbered!!

You deserve a couple of beers!!!

emmaak2:
THEN IS IT ADVISABLE FOR 2001 CAMRY DRIVEN FOR 5YRS WITH 20W50 TO BE CHANGE TO 5W20?

Here is a third video to help you decide


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Se8-W7rK0H4

emmaak2:
THEN IS IT ADVISABLE FOR 2001 CAMRY DRIVEN FOR 5YRS WITH 20W50 TO BE CHANGE TO 5W20?

As promised, here is the second post to help you decide

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tYkg0oDUXs8

mayor2013:
Update engine came in from the US on the 15th of this month. Picked up on 17th(Saturday). Unboxing of the engine loading. This box crate nawa. Engine looking shinny like brand new. Pix loading........ My wife bought me a brand new safety boot on my birthday. I reserved it for this job.

All's well that ends well!

more grease to your elbow!!

Toyota Sienna 2006 XLE

P0171 P0174 P0420 P0430

Diagnostics: SFI System (3MZ–FE): P0171, P0172, P0174, P0175 System Too Lean
...