GAZZUZZ: Failing Abs wheel speed sensor. A scan showing a coherence fault would indicate a faulty pulsar, but a scan showing an open or closed circuit would indicate a damaged abs sensor or harness. I am sure you do not have a scanner with you, so let's diagnose old sch.
Get a multimeter, set to read resistance, set to kilo ohms, working abs sensor for your vehicle would be around 1500k now disconnect abs sensor at connector get a firm reading, then wiggle the harness leading to the tip (2 man job) do it for all 4 sensors and if you do not have variations in resistance readings, problem is with pulsar and you will need a scanner to narrow that down the easy way.
I'm putting my money on a faulty abs sensor. Most technicians are careless around them when working.
P.S, we were wrong about the K24AZ3 and the 2 solenoids and 2 pressure switches, I am buying one tomorrow and it comes with 1 switch and solenoid, so are over 6 I saw in the warehouse. More pics after I pay for it.
I cannot count the number of times I have had to help out friends after some work around the tires/brakes/shocks/struts that resulted in this sort of issue.
I have been unable to start my car for almost two weeks now. The car cranks but wont start. All the lights in the dashboard are showing, the injector noozles have been serviced, the distributor (Ignition) has been changed and confirmed okay, the BRAINBOX has also been confirmed okay, the security has been disable as well yet it only cranks without starting, the fuel pump was removed and tested okay but will not work when fixed back to the engine and the spark plugs does not spark.
I will appreciate any assistance please.
1. Is the ECU in the vehicle the one that came with it or it is a replacement?
2. If it is a replacement, does it have the exact same part number or an upgraded part no?
3. Does this vehicle have an immobilizer?
4. If it has an immobilizer, was it programmed so as to allow a three way handshake between the ignition switch, the brainbox and the immobilizer? Or have you tried to do a bypass.
5. Can you explain the bolded?
6. Where are you located?
7. Can you scan and post codes? If you decide to , please do not use a cheap scanner. I have a personal experience fixing this issue, with a basic scan tool no codes, with a factory scan tool or professional aftermarket scan tool, there were codes that referred to a mismatch between the codes the ECU saw and the codes it expected from the key and the immobilizer unit. I am using ordinary language not the appropriate technical language.
There exists a strong possibility that immobilizer can cut injector pulses so the car never starts even though everything else is in order, except the three way handshake goes the way it was designed to go from the factory.
20W-50 engine oil is no good for modern engines, regardless of the mileage. It is too thick, and flow to sensitive areas like multivalve cylinders, VVT / VANOS and any other timing adjusters that rely on instant oil pressure will be impeded.
These are just some of the results of using 20W-50 engine oil in a modern engine, which has the viscosity of honey or tar.
Some are citing Nigeria's climate as a reason to run 20W-50 in a 2015 Toyota Camry. Rubbish! World climates are taken into account when engines are designed. What is so special about Nigeria? Texas, Arizona, Nevada are hotter than Nigeria will ever be, so is Dubai and tons of other countries. Run the correct oil for your engine, and stop assuming your Kazeem knows better than the engine manufacturers.
My old Audi S2 I sold with 543,000 miles on the odometer. When it was new and zero miles, the specified engine oil was 5W-30 or 10W-40. At 543,000 miles, the oil spec remained the same, I still used 5W-30.
Those saying their engines "knocked" after using the correct oil, that's nonsense. An engine that is on its last legs, with so much play in the crank main bearings, conrod bearings will run on any old rubbish.
Some unscrupulous dealers and mechanics will actually melt thick grease and fill the engine with the resultant heavy oil, to quieten a rattling and knocking engine, just to sell the car to an unsuspecting buyer. Of course this engine is dead, the moment you drain and replace the oil, it's the end. The destruction is nothing to do with using the correct engine, this was an engine that was already sounding like a bulldozer's diesel engine, that had the symptoms of crank and conrod Bering failure masked by introducing a thicker oil, which would eventually destroy even a healthy engine.
The average Nigerian prefers to accept 20W-50 oil as good for their engines, though deep down, some are aware it's wrong. It's easier to accept the cheaper rubbish than to shell out good money for the correct synthetic oil. These users are also inherently lazy, and couldn't really be bothered to search for the right oil, or import it if they can't find it locally or nationally.
No need to tell you who is speaking, I know that you already know.
emmaak2: THEN IS IT ADVISABLE FOR 2001 CAMRY DRIVEN FOR 5YRS WITH 20W50 TO BE CHANGE TO 5W20?
I will answer your question with a series of posts. This is the very first one.
Re: Switching from 5w30 to heavier oil in high mileage engine CONSIDER THE BENEFITS OF USING THINNER OIL:
• Thinner oil flows quicker at cold start-up to begin lubricating critical engine components much more quickly than thicker oil can. Most engine wear takes place during cold start-up before oil flow can reach all the components. So, quicker flowing thinner oil will help reduce start-up engine wear, which is actually reducing wear overall.
• The more free flowing thinner oil at cold start-up, is also much less likely to cause the oil filter bypass to open up, compared to thicker oil. Of course if the bypass opened up, that would allow unfiltered oil to be pumped through the engine. The colder the ambient temperature, and the more rpm used when the engine is cold, the more important this becomes.
• Thinner oil also flows more at normal operating temperatures. And oil FLOW is lubrication, but oil pressure is NOT lubrication. Oil pressure is only a measurement of resistance to flow. Running thicker oil just to up the oil pressure is the wrong thing to do, because that only reduces oil flow/lubrication. Oil pressure in and of itself, is NOT what we are after.
• The more free flowing thinner oil will also drain back to the oil pan quicker than thicker oil. So, thinner oil can help maintain a higher oil level in the oil pan during operation, which keeps the oil pump pickup from possibly sucking air during braking and cornering.
• The old rule of thumb that we should have at least 10 psi for every 1,000 rpm, is recommended for racing engines. But, for street engines, it is acceptable to use that rule only as an “approximate” general guideline, not an “absolute requirement”. It is best to run the thinnest oil we can, that will still maintain at least the old rule of thumb oil pressure for racing engines, even if that means using a high volume oil pump to achieve that.
For street engines, it is best to run the thinnest oil we can, that will still maintain “approximately” the old rule of thumb oil pressure, but it does not have to be exact. Though you may also need a high volume oil pump to achieve that. For both racing and street engines, a high volume oil pump/thinner oil combo is much preferred over running a standard volume oil pump/thicker oil combo. Because oil “flow” is our goal for ideal oiling, NOT simply high oil pressure. So, one of the benefits of running a high volume oil pump, is that it will allow us to enjoy all the benefits of running thinner oil, while still maintaining desirable oil pressure.
Using thicker oil just to achieve higher oil pressure, will simply reduce oil flow for no good reason. The oil pump relief valve determines the max oil pressure an engine can make, no matter what the oil viscosity is. And in some engines, the relief valve limits oil pressure to a max of 65 psi. But, that does not mean the engine's redline has to be limited to exactly 6,500 rpm because of that. Oil pressure does NOT determine the engine’s redline, the mechanical design of the engine does.
Plain bearings, such as rod and main bearings, are lubricated by oil flow, not by oil pressure. Oil pressure is NOT what keeps these parts separated. Oil pressure serves only to supply the oil to the clearance between the bearings and the crankshaft journals. Those parts are kept apart by the incompressible hydrodynamic liquid oil wedge that is formed as the liquid oil is pulled in between the spinning parts. As long as sufficient oil is supplied by the necessary oil pressure mentioned above, no wear can occur. And the higher flow rate of thinner oil, supplies more oil volume to the main and rod bearings, which also helps ensure that the critical incompressible hydrodynamic liquid oil wedge is maintained.
Thinner oil will of course flow out from the bearing clearance quicker than thicker oil will. But, by making sure there is sufficient oil pressure as mentioned above, the oil supply will always stay ahead of the oil flowing out, which will maintain that critical incompressible hydrodynamic liquid oil wedge.
• Oil flow is what carries heat away from internal engine components. Those engine components are DIRECTLY oil cooled, but only INdirectly water cooled. And better flowing thinner oil will keep critical engine components cooler because it carries heat away faster than slower flowing thicker oil can. This is especially important with plain main and rod bearings, since the flow of oil through the bearings is what cools them. If you run thicker oil than needed, you will drive up engine component temps.
Here are some comparison numbers from an 830 HP road race engine on the track:
15W50 oil = 80 psi = 265* oil sump temperature
5W20 oil = 65 psi = 240* oil sump temperature
Here you can see how the thicker oil flowed more slowly through the bearings, thus getting hotter, driving up bearing temperatures and increasing sump temperatures. And the thinner oil flowed more freely and quickly through the bearings, thus cooling and lubricating them better than thicker oil, while also reducing sump temperatures.
Here’s some additional background on all this - You might be surprised by how much heat can be generated just from an oil’s internal friction, though friction may not the best term to use here. It is probably better to think of this as the heat generated due to the shearing action taking place within the oil.
It is the shearing action of the oil between the crank and bearings, while the engine is under a heavy loading condition, that generates the bearing heat that we are concerned with. The oil wedge formed as the crank pulls oil around as it spins, is liquid oil. And since liquids cannot be compressed, the oil wedge itself is what carries that heavy engine loading (oil pressure serves only to deliver oil to the crank/bearing interface) and prevents the crank and bearings from coming in contact with each other, once the engine is running. Cold start up after sitting, is when the bearings and crank start out in contact with each other.
The difference in flow rate, and the difference in shearing generated heat, is why the viscosity used, makes a difference in bearing and sump temperatures. Thicker oil which flows more slowly and generates more heat from shearing, it is not carrying heat away and cooling the bearings as well or as quickly as it could, so that drives up bearing temps. This in turn, causes hotter oil to be coming out of the bearings and into the sump, which is why we see higher temps on a gauge. That is the opposite of what we want.
On the other hand, quicker flowing thinner oil, not only generates less heat from shearing, but it also carries heat away much quicker, keeping bearing temps down. And this means the oil coming out from the bearings, and going into the sump, is also cooler. And that is why we see the cooler sump temps. This is precisely what we saw with the road race engine example above.
If an engine is running hot, use a thinner oil to increase flow, increase internal component cooling, and help keep sump temperatures down. Keeping oil temps down is important to help keep oil below the threshold of thermal breakdown.
• Thinner oil will typically increase HP because of less viscous drag and reduced pumping losses, compared to thicker oils. That is why very serious Race efforts will generally use watery thin oils in their engines. But, an exception to this increase in HP would be in high rpm hydraulic lifter pushrod engines, where thinner oil can allow the lifters to malfunction at very high rpm. In everyday street vehicles, where fuel consumption is a consideration, thinner oils will also typically increase fuel economy. The majority of new cars sold in the U.S. now call for 5W20 specifically for increased fuel economy. And now Diesel trucks are increasingly calling for 5W30, also for fuel economy improvement.
• With the exception of high rpm hydraulic lifter pushrod engines, almost no engine should ever need to run oil thicker than a multi-viscosity 30 weight. The lower the first number cold viscosity rating, the better the cold flow. For example, 0W30 flows WAY better cold than 20W50. And 0W30 flows WAY better cold than straight 30wt, which is horrible for cold start-up flow and should be avoided at all cost. And the lower the second number hot viscosity rating, the better the hot flow. For example, 0W30 flows WAY better hot than 20W50.
* The churning action of rotating and reciprocating internal engine components, along with oil spraying out from between pressurized components, traditional oil pumps with their old-tech spur gear design, old tech oil pressure relief valves, and overall windage, all contribute in varying degrees, to causing the engine oil to become aerated, which is exhibited by air bubbles/foam in the oil. Air bubble-filled foamy oil, is what typically causes engines running on a dyno to experience oil pressure drops, assuming they have acceptable oil drain-back from the top end, and are keeping the oil pump pickup submerged. Also, air bubble-filled foamy oil, is what typically causes engines being run hard in cars, to experience drops in oil pressure, assuming the oil pump pickup is still submerged in oil. And if that isn't bad enough, air bubble-filled, foamy oil cannot lubricate critical internal components properly. For proper lubrication of critical components, you need incompressible "liquid" oil, NOT compressible air bubble-filled foamy oil.
This is an issue to take very seriously, if you want to provide your engine with the best possible lubrication protection. If this aerated oil issue is bad enough, it can cause wear, damage or outright engine failure. And it can be extremely difficult to diagnose, in the event of an outright engine failure. Because when you take the engine apart for examination, you typically can't find anything wrong at all, other than say the rod and/or main bearings that failed. That's because the air bubbles/foam are long gone by then.
You can't do much about the churning action of rotating and reciprocating internal engine components, nor can you do much about the oil spraying out from between pressurized components. Though you can try to reduce windage problems by selecting the best oil pan designs. You can also select a superior smoother flowing gerotor oil pump design with its internal bypass relief valve. But, the one thing that is the easiest to change to reduce engine oil aeration concerns, is to choose the proper engine oil viscosity.
Heavy thick oils such as 5W50 and 20W50, that are of course 50 weight oils at normal operating temperature, are slower to release and eliminate air bubbles/foam, than thinner oils such as 5W30 and 10W30 that are 30 weight oils at normal operating temperature. Motor oils do of course contain anti-foaming agents to help control (though not altogether eliminate) air bubbles/foam. But, the air bubbles that will still be present in the oil anyway, have to travel through the oil to be released. And thicker heavier oils slow down that process, leaving compromised lubrication. Adding aftermarket oil treatments that thicken the oil more, makes aeration issues even worse, by causing further slowing of air bubble release. Data on this is not widely published, so I have future testing planned that will provide much needed test data on this subject. But in the meantime, keep in mind that thinner oils such as 5W30 and 10W30, allow air bubbles to travel through the oil and be released quicker, making them a better viscosity choice to fight motor oil aeration issues, and provide the best possible lubrication protection for your engine.
• Thicker oils DO NOT automatically provide better wear protection than thinner oils, as some people mistakenly believe. Extensive “dynamic wear testing under load” of over 170 motor oils, has shown that the base oil and its additive package “as a whole”, with the primary emphasis on the additive package, which is what contains the extreme pressure anti-wear components, is what determines an oil’s wear protection capability, NOT its viscosity. In fact, the test data has shown that 5W20 oils can provide INCREDIBLE wear protection with over 120,000 psi load carrying capability/film strength/shear resistance, while 15W50 oils can sometimes only provide UNDESIRABLE wear protection with less than 60,000 psi. So, DO NOT use thicker oil under the assumption that it can provide better wear protection for our engines, because that is simply NOT TRUE.
• BOTTOM LINE: Thinner oils are better for most engine lubrication needs.
540 RAT
For the truth about motor oil wear protection, that is not just opinion or theory, see my "TECH FACTS, NOT MYTHS" Blog, which now has over 310,000 views worldwide and garners an additional 10,000 views every single month. You can see the Blog and my entire 170+ motor oil “Wear Protection Ranking List”, which is "proven" by the Physics and Chemistry involved, and EXACTLY matches real world severe over-heating experience, real world Track experience, real world flat tappet break-in experience, and real world High Performance Street experience (test data validation doesn’t get any better than this), along with additional motor oil tech FACTS, by going to the Blog link below. Credentials, methodology, proof, facts, data, Industry endorsements, real world validation, etc, are all included in the Blog. See for yourself, the engine you save may be your own.
HenryWilliams: Is it advisible to revert back to recommended 5W-30 oil? The pathfinder has been using regular 20W-50 with the previous owner since it came in 5 years ago. The engine is quiet. No leakages or oil shortage. Exhaust is clean. No smoke or any kind . 97 pathfinder
I will present to you an alternative point of view. I will not decide for you. Those who hold a different point of view should back it up with scientific data not anecdotal evidence, because he who asserts must prove.
Re: Switching from 5w30 to heavier oil in high mileage engine CONSIDER THE BENEFITS OF USING THINNER OIL:
• Thinner oil flows quicker at cold start-up to begin lubricating critical engine components much more quickly than thicker oil can. Most engine wear takes place during cold start-up before oil flow can reach all the components. So, quicker flowing thinner oil will help reduce start-up engine wear, which is actually reducing wear overall.
• The more free flowing thinner oil at cold start-up, is also much less likely to cause the oil filter bypass to open up, compared to thicker oil. Of course if the bypass opened up, that would allow unfiltered oil to be pumped through the engine. The colder the ambient temperature, and the more rpm used when the engine is cold, the more important this becomes.
• Thinner oil also flows more at normal operating temperatures. And oil FLOW is lubrication, but oil pressure is NOT lubrication. Oil pressure is only a measurement of resistance to flow. Running thicker oil just to up the oil pressure is the wrong thing to do, because that only reduces oil flow/lubrication. Oil pressure in and of itself, is NOT what we are after.
• The more free flowing thinner oil will also drain back to the oil pan quicker than thicker oil. So, thinner oil can help maintain a higher oil level in the oil pan during operation, which keeps the oil pump pickup from possibly sucking air during braking and cornering.
• The old rule of thumb that we should have at least 10 psi for every 1,000 rpm, is recommended for racing engines. But, for street engines, it is acceptable to use that rule only as an “approximate” general guideline, not an “absolute requirement”. It is best to run the thinnest oil we can, that will still maintain at least the old rule of thumb oil pressure for racing engines, even if that means using a high volume oil pump to achieve that.
For street engines, it is best to run the thinnest oil we can, that will still maintain “approximately” the old rule of thumb oil pressure, but it does not have to be exact. Though you may also need a high volume oil pump to achieve that. For both racing and street engines, a high volume oil pump/thinner oil combo is much preferred over running a standard volume oil pump/thicker oil combo. Because oil “flow” is our goal for ideal oiling, NOT simply high oil pressure. So, one of the benefits of running a high volume oil pump, is that it will allow us to enjoy all the benefits of running thinner oil, while still maintaining desirable oil pressure.
Using thicker oil just to achieve higher oil pressure, will simply reduce oil flow for no good reason. The oil pump relief valve determines the max oil pressure an engine can make, no matter what the oil viscosity is. And in some engines, the relief valve limits oil pressure to a max of 65 psi. But, that does not mean the engine's redline has to be limited to exactly 6,500 rpm because of that. Oil pressure does NOT determine the engine’s redline, the mechanical design of the engine does.
Plain bearings, such as rod and main bearings, are lubricated by oil flow, not by oil pressure. Oil pressure is NOT what keeps these parts separated. Oil pressure serves only to supply the oil to the clearance between the bearings and the crankshaft journals. Those parts are kept apart by the incompressible hydrodynamic liquid oil wedge that is formed as the liquid oil is pulled in between the spinning parts. As long as sufficient oil is supplied by the necessary oil pressure mentioned above, no wear can occur. And the higher flow rate of thinner oil, supplies more oil volume to the main and rod bearings, which also helps ensure that the critical incompressible hydrodynamic liquid oil wedge is maintained.
Thinner oil will of course flow out from the bearing clearance quicker than thicker oil will. But, by making sure there is sufficient oil pressure as mentioned above, the oil supply will always stay ahead of the oil flowing out, which will maintain that critical incompressible hydrodynamic liquid oil wedge.
• Oil flow is what carries heat away from internal engine components. Those engine components are DIRECTLY oil cooled, but only INdirectly water cooled. And better flowing thinner oil will keep critical engine components cooler because it carries heat away faster than slower flowing thicker oil can. This is especially important with plain main and rod bearings, since the flow of oil through the bearings is what cools them. If you run thicker oil than needed, you will drive up engine component temps.
Here are some comparison numbers from an 830 HP road race engine on the track:
15W50 oil = 80 psi = 265* oil sump temperature
5W20 oil = 65 psi = 240* oil sump temperature
Here you can see how the thicker oil flowed more slowly through the bearings, thus getting hotter, driving up bearing temperatures and increasing sump temperatures. And the thinner oil flowed more freely and quickly through the bearings, thus cooling and lubricating them better than thicker oil, while also reducing sump temperatures.
Here’s some additional background on all this - You might be surprised by how much heat can be generated just from an oil’s internal friction, though friction may not the best term to use here. It is probably better to think of this as the heat generated due to the shearing action taking place within the oil.
It is the shearing action of the oil between the crank and bearings, while the engine is under a heavy loading condition, that generates the bearing heat that we are concerned with. The oil wedge formed as the crank pulls oil around as it spins, is liquid oil. And since liquids cannot be compressed, the oil wedge itself is what carries that heavy engine loading (oil pressure serves only to deliver oil to the crank/bearing interface) and prevents the crank and bearings from coming in contact with each other, once the engine is running. Cold start up after sitting, is when the bearings and crank start out in contact with each other.
The difference in flow rate, and the difference in shearing generated heat, is why the viscosity used, makes a difference in bearing and sump temperatures. Thicker oil which flows more slowly and generates more heat from shearing, it is not carrying heat away and cooling the bearings as well or as quickly as it could, so that drives up bearing temps. This in turn, causes hotter oil to be coming out of the bearings and into the sump, which is why we see higher temps on a gauge. That is the opposite of what we want.
On the other hand, quicker flowing thinner oil, not only generates less heat from shearing, but it also carries heat away much quicker, keeping bearing temps down. And this means the oil coming out from the bearings, and going into the sump, is also cooler. And that is why we see the cooler sump temps. This is precisely what we saw with the road race engine example above.
If an engine is running hot, use a thinner oil to increase flow, increase internal component cooling, and help keep sump temperatures down. Keeping oil temps down is important to help keep oil below the threshold of thermal breakdown.
• Thinner oil will typically increase HP because of less viscous drag and reduced pumping losses, compared to thicker oils. That is why very serious Race efforts will generally use watery thin oils in their engines. But, an exception to this increase in HP would be in high rpm hydraulic lifter pushrod engines, where thinner oil can allow the lifters to malfunction at very high rpm. In everyday street vehicles, where fuel consumption is a consideration, thinner oils will also typically increase fuel economy. The majority of new cars sold in the U.S. now call for 5W20 specifically for increased fuel economy. And now Diesel trucks are increasingly calling for 5W30, also for fuel economy improvement.
• With the exception of high rpm hydraulic lifter pushrod engines, almost no engine should ever need to run oil thicker than a multi-viscosity 30 weight. The lower the first number cold viscosity rating, the better the cold flow. For example, 0W30 flows WAY better cold than 20W50. And 0W30 flows WAY better cold than straight 30wt, which is horrible for cold start-up flow and should be avoided at all cost. And the lower the second number hot viscosity rating, the better the hot flow. For example, 0W30 flows WAY better hot than 20W50.
* The churning action of rotating and reciprocating internal engine components, along with oil spraying out from between pressurized components, traditional oil pumps with their old-tech spur gear design, old tech oil pressure relief valves, and overall windage, all contribute in varying degrees, to causing the engine oil to become aerated, which is exhibited by air bubbles/foam in the oil. Air bubble-filled foamy oil, is what typically causes engines running on a dyno to experience oil pressure drops, assuming they have acceptable oil drain-back from the top end, and are keeping the oil pump pickup submerged. Also, air bubble-filled foamy oil, is what typically causes engines being run hard in cars, to experience drops in oil pressure, assuming the oil pump pickup is still submerged in oil. And if that isn't bad enough, air bubble-filled, foamy oil cannot lubricate critical internal components properly. For proper lubrication of critical components, you need incompressible "liquid" oil, NOT compressible air bubble-filled foamy oil.
This is an issue to take very seriously, if you want to provide your engine with the best possible lubrication protection. If this aerated oil issue is bad enough, it can cause wear, damage or outright engine failure. And it can be extremely difficult to diagnose, in the event of an outright engine failure. Because when you take the engine apart for examination, you typically can't find anything wrong at all, other than say the rod and/or main bearings that failed. That's because the air bubbles/foam are long gone by then.
You can't do much about the churning action of rotating and reciprocating internal engine components, nor can you do much about the oil spraying out from between pressurized components. Though you can try to reduce windage problems by selecting the best oil pan designs. You can also select a superior smoother flowing gerotor oil pump design with its internal bypass relief valve. But, the one thing that is the easiest to change to reduce engine oil aeration concerns, is to choose the proper engine oil viscosity.
Heavy thick oils such as 5W50 and 20W50, that are of course 50 weight oils at normal operating temperature, are slower to release and eliminate air bubbles/foam, than thinner oils such as 5W30 and 10W30 that are 30 weight oils at normal operating temperature. Motor oils do of course contain anti-foaming agents to help control (though not altogether eliminate) air bubbles/foam. But, the air bubbles that will still be present in the oil anyway, have to travel through the oil to be released. And thicker heavier oils slow down that process, leaving compromised lubrication. Adding aftermarket oil treatments that thicken the oil more, makes aeration issues even worse, by causing further slowing of air bubble release. Data on this is not widely published, so I have future testing planned that will provide much needed test data on this subject. But in the meantime, keep in mind that thinner oils such as 5W30 and 10W30, allow air bubbles to travel through the oil and be released quicker, making them a better viscosity choice to fight motor oil aeration issues, and provide the best possible lubrication protection for your engine.
• Thicker oils DO NOT automatically provide better wear protection than thinner oils, as some people mistakenly believe. Extensive “dynamic wear testing under load” of over 170 motor oils, has shown that the base oil and its additive package “as a whole”, with the primary emphasis on the additive package, which is what contains the extreme pressure anti-wear components, is what determines an oil’s wear protection capability, NOT its viscosity. In fact, the test data has shown that 5W20 oils can provide INCREDIBLE wear protection with over 120,000 psi load carrying capability/film strength/shear resistance, while 15W50 oils can sometimes only provide UNDESIRABLE wear protection with less than 60,000 psi. So, DO NOT use thicker oil under the assumption that it can provide better wear protection for our engines, because that is simply NOT TRUE.
• BOTTOM LINE: Thinner oils are better for most engine lubrication needs.
540 RAT
For the truth about motor oil wear protection, that is not just opinion or theory, see my "TECH FACTS, NOT MYTHS" Blog, which now has over 310,000 views worldwide and garners an additional 10,000 views every single month. You can see the Blog and my entire 170+ motor oil “Wear Protection Ranking List”, which is "proven" by the Physics and Chemistry involved, and EXACTLY matches real world severe over-heating experience, real world Track experience, real world flat tappet break-in experience, and real world High Performance Street experience (test data validation doesn’t get any better than this), along with additional motor oil tech FACTS, by going to the Blog link below. Credentials, methodology, proof, facts, data, Industry endorsements, real world validation, etc, are all included in the Blog. See for yourself, the engine you save may be your own.
earthrealm: the check engine light later stopped, and switched to the red oil warning light which came on intermittently. especially on long highway trips. sold the car a couple of months afterwards, the new owner is still enjoying it till date, he downgraded to running 20w 50 oils all the time, the oil level warning light comes on intermittently and his kazeem changed the oil pressure switch, didnt solve the problem. he isnt bothered by it anymore. its been more than 4yrs he has been using the car
@op, omo u don track me reach rav4world?
LOL - I was researching both paid for sources and free sources for this code P1349 and wanted to provide proof that my recommendations were not without basis.
Some are of the opinion that oil changes or dirty oil or low oil cannot be responsible for P1349 which goes against Toyota Factory Service Manual documentation, I felt that I needed to set the records straight for posterity, and I found you!
Whether your tech decides to fix the issue by cleaning the OCV filter or by oil changes, it is a matter of choice/approach/preference
If the OCV filter is gummed up, there is pretty much likelihood that the engine is has sludge issues.
A couple of reduced oil change intervals (OCI) with high detergent preferably synthetic engine oil can gradually fix this as the example of the RAV 4 above shows can be applied to address the engine sludge as distinct from merely isolating the OCV filter since that is symptomatic of a problem with the whole of the engine with the OCV filter being a pointer in that regard.
There is a guy on this forum that had this same code and apparently fixed it by just by doing oil changes, he also documented his experience at this link that I am pointing to below
P1349 Code - General Variable Valve Timing System Malfunction - Bank 1
OBD-II code P1349 indicates a problem with the variable valve timing system in your Toyota.
Your Toyota's variable valve timing, or VVT, system is responsible for controlling and adjusting the intake valve timing according to driving conditions. The engine control module, or ECM, controls the oil control valve, or OCV, to make the intake valve timing accurate, and so that oil pressure controlled by the OCV is properly supplied to the VVT controller. From there, the VVT controller changes position between the cam and crankshaft. The code, P1349 is triggered when the valve timing isn't changing from the current valve timing state, or when the valve timing is fixed.
Possible causes of trouble code P1349 include:
Low or dirty engine oil Incorrect valve timing Faulty oil control valve Faulty variable valve timing controlled assembly Faulty engine control module (ECM) Getting to the bottom of this problem can be tricky since possible causes vary so greatly. Checking the oil to determine if it is low or dirty can eliminate the easiest of the possible problems. From there, you will need to check the timing to see how off everything is. Considering the problem to be a faulty engine control module should be the very last on your list. If you have addressed every other issue and the light is still illuminated, try clearing the code to see if it returns -- if it does, it might be a sign of a bad ECM. Other signs of ECM problems include poor performance, failure to start, and erratic gear changes on automatic transmission.
Before you make any repairs, you should consult a professional first. This guide is meant to offer you insight into the possible problems that trigger trouble code P1349, and it is not meant to be a definitive trouble-shooting or repair guide.
I kept asking for the VIN to take a look at the full service history of the vehicle
To answer the question how well taken care of (or how badly abused) was it, and to catch other problems before they manifest but I never got.
When one has to diagnose a vehicle sight unseen, the more the information shared, the better
There is no substitute for physical inspection, but if you share as much information as possible, the clearest picture of the state of the vehicle emerges, distance notwithstanding.
When the issue is resolved do report back to the forum.
adefes: Please the check engine light on my nissan qashqai 2010 model 2.0 is currently on and the code is P1111. I have tried to reset this but it's still showing. Any serious issues with this code? How do I fix this and can this code be responsible for not getting more than 21mpg within lagos. Thanks
I need your VIN, Nissan asked me for your VIN.
Thanks.
you can email me at carowners @ spareparts dot com ng
ironheart: at our current temperature, 20w30 is ok. As long as he is not planning to visit Jos town. American spec use 5w30 because there temperature does drop fast. Wear n tears happen in the few minutes of an engine start. 20w50 is ok
As for the issue of loss of fuel economy along with P1349, I have checked every single case of this issue in an aftermarket database, it always comes along with a significant loss of fuel economy.
So what you experience is normal in the light of the presence of that code.
GAZZUZZ: From all the long chatter I read in all the posts, I can deduce your engine has a sludge problem.
I will not advice you to use the right weight of engine oil at this time 5w30, because it will shorten the lifespan of your engine
There are 2 strainers on both banks of the cylinder, they allow oil flow to the VVTI solenoids, presently the one on bank 1. Is blocked, I will show you the location of both strainers once I get to the workshop at 9am.
Remove both, have them cleaned.
Change engine oil more regularly on shorter intervals to keep engine clean. In case I forget quote me.
Costee: Intake Valve Timing Control Solenoid Valve. I think you can apply the troubleshooting procedure for 2005 Sentra for the code. Funny enough his 2010 Qashqai is fitted with the same MR20DE engine as in the Sentra of the same (2010) year, yet the Sentra does not have the IVT valve code. Looks straight enough: check for electrical shorts connected with the valve or replace the valve. Timing may be a little retarded resulting in the rpm slightly out of spec (high) and so poor mpg. But then one wonders whether this issue did not result from the use of some contaminated engine oil.
Thanks so much Resident Nissan Expert.
Part of the confusion is that depending on whom you ask, it says that the code stands for Intake Valve Timing Control Solenoid OR Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor Circuit.
In relation to the Qashqai, I see the later. In relation to other vehicles in the Nissan lineup, I see the former.
So I decided to hold on until I can gain some clarity on which is which.
adefes: Please the check engine light on my nissan qashqai 2010 model 2.0 is currently on and the code is P1111. I have tried to reset this but it's still showing. Any serious issues with this code? How do I fix this and can this code be responsible for not getting more than 21mpg within lagos. Thanks
My access to Nissan Technical Data does not include the Service Manual for this vehicle ( it was not targeted at the American/Canadian market)
I have requested for help from Nissan to that effect, they have promised to get back to me, once I get a response, I will reach out to you.
Everyone has answered well including my very good friend honmusa
I just want to reiterate in the plainest English possible what has already been said
Carefully study the wiring harness to and from the engine and to and from the fan or even the A/C compressor if it located around the bottom of the engine, look for exposed wiring and insulate them.
Concentrate on that part of the engine bay that you have identified as suspect first of all
One or more wires that should not touch each other (called an short) cause electricity to travel through unintended paths causing unintended effects in particular the switching off, once the short goes away, you are able to start again, find and eliminate the shorts and you will stop putting your life in danger.
Water conducts electricity!
Explain it that way to an electrician and he should be able to help.
If you are the DIY type, then you can do so yourself, but first of all, disconnect the negative battery cable!
ghadaffi2000: Thank you very much for this response. I believe it's the instrument cluster. Where can I get the replacement of the LCD cable ribbon done or can it be done at Ladipo. I also doubted the need to replace the whole instrument cluster.
As far I know, it has to be imported.
Nisspart and/or Costee might be able to answer if it can be sourced locally
Here is third party explanation for the position that oil is critical to the behavior of the VVT system, and therefore by mandating that we start this fix from the point of view of running the correct oil, I have not deviated for engineering and scientific principles.
Although the system is party electrical and partly mechanic, without oil which takes care of the hydraulic angle, everything falls apart.
As the link I will provide proves, it is not just any oil, it has to be oil of the correct viscosity, which translates to the manufacturer's recommendation which translate to 5W30 in your case.
Here are excerpts to help you make up you appreciate where my recommendation so far comes from:
Oil plays a larger role in VVT systems. They need engine oil not only for lubrication, but also to actuate the camshafts to change the profile of the lobes.
Oil quality, condition and specifications are critical to the performance of the system. The passages and orifices can be very small and prone to sludging. Also, the oil acts as hydraulic fluid to move the actuators. If the oil does not have the correct viscosity, the behavior of the actuators will change.
Observation: Your engine is particularly prone to sludge by the way!
The very first step I take before turning nuts and bolts is to check the oil. Dirty oil and the lack of regular oil changes can leave a buildup of sludge or debris in the passages leading to the pressure control valve that operates the VVT. If the oil is dirty and too much sludge accumulates at the valve ports, the sludge can be passed on through the cam and the valve assembly. From there, the oil passages in the cam can be compromised and could result in a cam failure due to scored journals.
Observation: This is standard practice in more than one service location. I am not an exception, its the simple things first, not the complex things first. Some shops even go further to check for sludge formation, I have not ruled that out for your ride either.
Why conduct invasive surgery without ruling out everything else?
Lack of regular maintenance seems to be the big factor in most of these systems. Unlike vehicles from years gone by where certain maintenance issues could be neglected, these newer engines and newer systems require the utmost in care. Stressing this point to your customers and performing the required basic maintenance per the manufacturer’s schedule will safeguard their vehicle and increase your profits.
Note: Instead of rushing into electrical or mechanical issues, I made you realize that oil, the correct oil is pivotal to a perfectly functional VVT system, so that if and when the system is fixed, the repair will stand the test of time. Secondly, I did not try to talk above you, it is your vehicle afterall, so I made sure to carry you along and made sure that you at least appreciated if not understood the fix I proposed.
Most late-model engines are factory filled with multiviscosity 5w-20 or 5w-30 motor oil, but some require 5w-40, 0w-20 or 0w-30. Be sure to follow the viscosity recommendations because many of these engines have tighter bearing clearances that require a lower-viscosity oil for proper lubrication. Thinner oils also improve fuel economy.
Observation: You are in business for profit, would you knowing carry coins in a bag with a hole? If your answer is no, why use an oil that robes your vehicle of fuel economy. 20w50 is fine if you are racing the vehicle at 110MPH day in day out, but you are not, there is just no justification for 20w50 at this time.
You should be able to find out which oils are approved for various makes/models/applications by searching the OEM service literature or an aftermarket repair database.
Although they do not mention the exact code you have, it does not take away from the fact that the use of the correct type of oil is a must for proper operation of the VVT system.
There are at least two guys on this forum who have constituted themselves into opposition parties in relation to me because I had cause to call them out, and so that must be borne in mind when considering their points of view, they have an axe to grind and they can't even disguise it, until they do away with that bias, take everything they say with a grain of salt.
Anyone who has an alternative point of view is welcome to state it but provide proof why it should be that way, instead of blanket sweeping statements without basis.
honmusa: This is engine related issue that the OP complain about not powertrain .Even if there is code ,it is not related to the scope of complaint. I don't think you go to field to see the real stuff,you are more of Internet mechanic.
For the record
-I know what is driving you, my post that you should be open enough to try the suggestions you were given!
Car Talk › Re: Maintenance Tips For Honda Cars by AutoElectNG: 9:09pm On Jun 14, 2017
