₦airaland Forum

clementy117:
So the Red Normal Corolla is better right??!

not necessarily better. like earlier said better fuel economy and obviously lower power. however i wldnt advice U to choose based on looks.
go inspect both cars thoroughly with your eyes.
inspect the interior, engine, chassis (look for rust), test drive both very well rev the engine wella. if there are any hidden issues it might show up. if you can pls take a competent mechanic (one that you trust and knows what he is doing) along to inspect it.
ensure engine, transmission, chassis, electricals are all in top shape. personally i would pick d altis because of d superior interior design however if the conversion is not properly done.... i no dey do. make person no go drive enter bush for express :-)

let me spread my mat here... abeg where the other demeanors dey?
but Gazzuzz na car talk this thing suppose dey o

Kelvin30286063:
I bought this car a year ago and it's been serving me very well. Though I bought the car as Nigeria used from a staff at the college where I work but he sold it to me without informing me of all the faults even though we are very close.
After driving the car sorrowfully for close to a year, I decided to spend good money on it.
I changed all the front suspensions.
Changed the interior,
Bought a new tokunbo engine and gear (though there is no problem with the gear, my mechanic advised I changed the gear cuz the new engine may be too powerful for the old gear)
Changed fuel pump and absorbers.
I even changed the front and back bumper then I oven baked the car.
Everybody thought I bought a new car.
I have never felt better driving it. So smooth and heavy...
Now that everything is fine with my beloved car, I started getting pressure from family and friends to sell the car and buy another one.
It started with my wife asking me to change the car, then my dad saying Honda is not reliable. A few other friends (colleagues) also advised I sell it now that it looks like tokunbo... I'm very confuse cuz if I sell this car, I'm not sure of the issues I'll have with the new car I'll buy then I'll start spending money on it again.

I know if I seek this advice from my wife. She will say sell it so I'm throwing it to you guys.
Please, have you ever been in this situation and do you think I'll get value for what I spent on it?

With the amount of money U have put into making this car ride better bro no buyer will ever value dt car as much as you will. U kno au much U put into it. THat will surely reflect on how much you love dt car. If U wan try am just put it up for sale on NL or jiji and see the price ppl will offer you. Las las na U go later vex dey enjoy ur ride.
Secondly sir.... i think U need to work on urself more. Because from all you have said U r considering this based on "wetin person/ppl talk". THo it is wise to listen to counsel bt it looks like U r being pushed. Do not be pushed bros. Enjoy dt baby for atleast 6 months or a year den upgrade.

PUt a call tru....

AV

BEAUTIFUL sunday morning guys... awaiting new buyer

AVA

AVAILABLE

AV

PIx

MOre pictures

Pictures

Registered 2013 Honda Accord
Four cylinder engine
Full option with all working accessories
Original custom papers
Thumb start
Condition: Excellent. Buy. Drive. Enjoy
Engine amd transmission still kicking as new.
Regularly maintained with recommended oils.
Car body has minor scratch due to use but interior is squeaky clean.
Price: 3,000,000 million (negotiable)
Kindly contact the number below for more details
Inspection is a must before purchase.

Location: Lagos.

Contact: 07062222998 (calls only)

HeavenlyBang:
It's Kingreign.

Hehehehe...better. i did dt deliberately so baba go talk cuz rly i felt d moniker was an imposter

KINGreignn:

you are definitely an imposter. I will be reporting dis thread to d mod to be banned. we have only one Kingreign on NL.

HeavenlyBang:
It's a 2GR. Lives forever.

just checked and its true. na wa o. bt there has got to be some improvement ... no matter how small

KINGreignn:
W202, W203 and w204

sorry but wc kingreign r U? I see an extra n after ur name.

HeavenlyBang:
After 2010, they got heavier and became slower. Same engine has been used since 2006 till now. 306 HP. And yes, the engine is very expensive.

r u serious?
why dem no upgrade d engine? hehehe I guess dey see d engine to be very reliable

HeavenlyBang:
In fact, yes. Newer models are slower.

wc particular model year are we talkibg about here?
or you mean all the recent models after these ones?
also heard this particular model engine can be vert costly close to a million how true is that? cc kingreign

LeJeun3:

Replaced timing adjusters and tensioners ....

great job boss. awaiting updates o

thebigkendo:
Weyreypey dey are talking to you

baba you like to dey find trouble sha

HeavenlyBang:
One of the best cars Lexus has ever made.

are we saying lexus didnt improve with d newer models?

Kelvin30286063:
You're a devil's incarnate!

r U sure he is not d devil himself? hehehe evil men everywhere

obekediamondfuto:
no mind am, im wan make I carry my hand knock my engine...

bt u sef for try am fes na abi?

nurey:
mix sawdust and Tetraoxosulphate 6 acid and ethelene-dichloro-oxymethanol in the ratio 3:1:1 and pour the content inside the engine and fire away, ensure you upgrade you rotor disc and brake shoes then wind up and don't open your mouth because of flies.

Godspeed

lwkmd ahn ahn na wc kind combo be dis?
u wicked o.

tensazangetsu20:
Do you think if you had ran a compression test immediately after servicing the injectors. You would have had normal compression values for this engine. I always run a compression test for misfiring issues once I noticed the problem isn't the coil or the plug.

i agree with you on this. after cancelling out fuel and spark... only next thing is mechaical.... before opening the engine i think its wise to carry out a compression test. this should also help in gathering more data and evidence towards resolving the issue accurately. ... but we lwarn everyday sha.

TRYGO:
Each of the combustion chambers of the various cylinders in your car's engine, goes through a series of precise combustion processes of air-fuel via the intake/exhaust valves.

With neither of the combustion chambers undergoing the processes precisely, a deficit is introduced, in terms of either a lean/rich air/fuel ratios in the valves strokes.

A distortion in the firing of the cylinder(s), quickly transcends to what we would normally called, an engine misfire.

There are misfires that can easily be tracked down, and solutions proffered in solving them, while there are others that are a pain, to track down.

Its just frustrating to have replaced all misfiring related parts, and still have the problem not solved.

Today, we'd be treating a peculiar sort of misfire, that has caused a new client thousands in costs of parts replacement and labour.

If you're ready, here we go!

CASE STUDY

CAR TYPE: Toyota Corolla 2010
ENGINE TYPE: 2ZR-FE
TRANSMISSION TYPE: Automatic drive

COMPLAINTS

According to client:
1. Car has being parked for about six months
2. Returned from a journey, and tried starting the car.
3. Engine started finally, but suddenly started experiencing some sort of engine misfires.
4. My mechanic has done all what he could do to fix the problem, but without success.
5. I retrieved a P0301 misfire code with my Bluetooth code reader.
6. I'm scared of driving the car down to your shop Joe!
Could you come pick it up?

VERIFICATION OF CUSTOMER'S COMPLAINTS ONSITE

1. Started vehicle, and confirmed there was a terrible misfire occurring in the engine.
Engine was basically "dancing".
2. Observed excessive black smoke, and foul odour of petrol from the exhaust tailpipe.
3. Personally scanned the car with a professional scan tool, and confirmed same code present.

DIAGNOSIS and FIX
1. Drove the car to the shop, with the hazard light on

2. Because of the violent nature of the misfires, there was a lot of sort of engine knocked kind of noise from the engine.

3. The car was driven, at 30mph, to reduced the load on the engine.

4. Interchanged the ignition coils of #1 and #4, to see if the coils were the culprit.
That didn't solved the problem.

5. Next was to have those spark plugs also replaced, with some sets of test spark plugs I had in the shop, instead of buying new ones.

This also didn't take care of the problem.
This tells me its not an ignition system related problem.

6. I opted to have the fuel injectors serviced, and also interchanged.
I noticed something astonishing during servicing the injectors with carb cleaner.

They were totally clogged with carbon deposits.
The injector on #1 cylinder, had a greater %of carbon buildup on the injector pintle.

That was obstructing the free flow of fuel, and subsequently reducing the fuel pressure on the cylinders.

7. Cleaned up the fuel injectors, and fixed them back; started the engine, there was not improvement.

8. Got a test lamp and a digital multimeter to test the fuel injector's power and ground circuits for either of an open or a short circuits problems.

All the injector power feeds were intact, including the grounds.

With this test, I was able to isolate any ECU related causes.

9. Now, what was in my mind was that this particular problem, is a mechanically induced one, that is narrowed down only to cylinder #1.

Since I have had experiences like these before,
I had already began narrowing down the likely causes to the following:

a) bad top cylinder gasket, due to overheating, can cause the valves to stick in their bores.
b) broken, or worn faulty valves, stems, guides, etc.
broken piston compression rings on cylinder #1.

10. What we saw, opening up the valve cover, with the intention of dismantling the top cylinder head, was surprising.

11. The inlet rocker arms on cylinder #1, were all dislodged from their positions on the pushrods.
This was the actual reason, that cylinder was misfiring, and loosing power.

12. Timed the engine, and had the top cylinder removed and taken to a machinist, for machining.

13. Replaced top cylinder gasket with a composite one, instead of the multilayered one that was originally on the car.

14. Dressed the deck of the engine block, cylinder head, and installed the head, after modifying the gasket.

ANALYSIS OF CAUSES OF THE MISFIRE
1. Closely looking at the valve train components in the cylinder head, and how clean they were, suggested to us that the client must have being properly maintaining his car, and that engine oil degradation was not to blamed for the problem.

2. The absence of an open or short circuit problems on the injector power/ground harnesses, proved that the ECU, and it's wiring, were functional, and there was no need to other a "Brainbox"!

3. Inspecting the inlet port on the cylinder #1 alone as compared to others, showed a huge volume of raw petrol dumped in there.
Obviously, this points to either a valve is not opening at all, or ...

I did conclude that why the rocker arms fell off from their positions in the engine, was basically a buildup of carbon deposits in the bore of the valves on the inlet sides of #1cylinder.

HOW TO PREVENT PROBLEMS LIKE THIS
If you intend to prevent instances such as this, ensured;
1. Engine oils are replaced as at when due.
Not replacing when its due, introduces impurities in the valve train, and cause problems.
2. Use fuel additives, devoid of sulphur contents at least once a month.
This would take care of fuel related carbon deposits on the fuel injector pintle.
3. If this isn't feasible, use carb cleaner to manually clean the injectors.
4. Don't rev your engine when its idling.
This would put more stress on the engine, and cause internal engine problems, such as rocker arm failures, if your engine is equipped with one.
5. Always replace old fuel from a car that has stayed longer than three months.
An j complete combustion process, as a result of bad gasoline, would exert stresses on the rocker arms, and cause lags in the combustion strokes.


PS:
Engines with rocker arm designs, or overhead camshafts (OHC), are known to exhibit problems of rocker arms falling off of their positions on the pushrods, or even falling off and exploding, causing severe engine problems, and suddenly stalling in motions.

This, I have seen on some 2004 Ford Explorers, where the rocker arms are dislodged, and caused an engine to seize entirely.

Well, that ended up having the entire engine replaced.






Regards,
Joseph
DW Nig Ltd
Isolo,
Lagos
www.dxta.com.ng
08066643532

great thought process here bro. and great job once again...
however like earlier stated. a compression test wld have told U alot. why? compression on cylinder one would most likely be lower that the rest.
dt done U kno U av a compression issue. however where wahala dey be say U will not be able to narrow down if the cylinder is leaking into the combustion chamber (via worn piston rings) or into the intake (if intake valves dont close properly) or into exhaust (exhaust valves not closing completely)
this is where a leak down tester comes into play.

men this business we need to invest in tools to make the work easier. but car owners no dey like pay at all...

would be really glad if we could share such quality knowledge here more often rather than this one dem "ogas" go about slandering eachother...

Nyceguy92:
If your car was driving well before the change of parts, it is most likely your mechanic dislodged some wires or did not put in the right parts.

Regarding your car jerking forward when you engage gear, I am almost certain that your new shaft is the wrong one.
Not all parts are totally cross-compatible and unless you use the correct part, some functions will be lost.
This is especially so in Nigeria, where Tokumbo/used parts are commonly used and whether or not a part fits well is often hearsay.

I had to replace the shaft of a 2003 Camry 2.4l, V4 sometime ago.
Mechanic tried all supposedly compatible models and each time, the car jerked forward with a sound like hammer on a solid object.
There was also wheel vibration on acceleration.

Problem was solved when only 2003 model shaft was installed and there has been no problem so far.

The teeth of the inner shaft that hooks up with the transmission or gear system should be a perfect match for a smooth drive.
If there is no proper fit, that is when you get the noise/jerks.

Your D lights may also be as a result of the work process.
You need to see how they hammer the joints to remove the shocks and ball joints.
Who knows whether the jolts loosened some peripheral sensors on your transmission.

What you need to do first is to replace the shaft with an exact model/make of your car.

Your mechanic might tell you the jerking will settle; it will not.

very useful info. tnx for this

diportivo:
once in a while,my V6 baby boy did that

it never affected the working tho....and sooner than later ofcos the P light goes off

I av another baby boy that's an i4 and it has never done that since I've had it

at some point I had to change the gear cable on the V6 and it was after that that I started observing this trend

So it is clear having the P and D4 light come on while ignition is on not right. Thanks for that.

diportivo:
lmao @ gbé body

Baba no go answer.....1999 na old school

poster shld check his mounts first since it's not doing gbi in all gears

From your experience, i know you have used a honda baby boy b4. Does the D4 and P light come on when you turn on the ignition?

domack99:
Blinking D4 or Dx light is a check engine light that tell you the transmission has issue. Please use OBD scanner to check what the code is. You can get ELM327 online. Get the 1.5 version please. It cost less than 6k

It will be easier to advise if we know the code

Sometimes i have come to notice those cheap scanners sometimes mislead. My advice would be he visits a competent mechanic to get is checked, diagnosed with a professional scan tool.
This might be caused my elrctrical, hydraulic or mechanical faults. Its easy when U can confidently rule them out so U can narrow down where your fault is coming from.

mystiquerebirth:
My Honda City 09 jerks whenever I change the gear to R or D. I have changed the engine seating and adjuster. I just changed the transmission fluid with the recommended Honda ATF last month.

Also, the gear light on the dashboard keeps blinking.

I need your help on this.

Where is your location sir?