₦airaland Forum

tolugar: hi Car doctor. i want to you to help me chose between
toyota camry 2001 and 2002 camry (big for nothing) not considering price
and also this issue of automatict and manual, which is better. i drive both
very well.

Not a bad car at all. Don't know why they call it "big for nothing".

Choose between the 2.4 ltr 4 cylinder model or the 3.0 ltr v6. Trim varies from base CE/ LE to luxury XLE. And may reflect on the price but manual is not an easy option as most are automatic.

The chioce still is yours.

Car-Doctor.

ade1234: Thanks for all the enlightenment on gear problem, i really appreciate it. Welldone Doc.

Please, help me out on this, my nissan pathfinder 2001/2002 usually shows ''ATF temp'' light on the cluster after i have driven for about an hour on the highway. what do you advise.

thanks

Your gearbox may be overheating or you have a faulty gearbox temperature sensor.

The auto gearbox operates at very high temperatures due to the high pressure that the hydraulic fluid circulates within the gearbox. If the ATF is not cooled, it could boil and lose its hydraulic properties. The gearbox also could overheat and damage internal components such as rubber seals and plastic materials in the gearbox.

Because of this reason, cooling is vital. In most cars, the engine coolant radiator serves as the oil cooler or a seperate heat radiation device attached to the gearbox and supplied with coolant from the engine radiator.

Some gearboxes have temperature sensors attached to them to monitor and warn on temperature conditions of the gearbox or its fluid.

Check to see if the pipes that pass ATF through the radiator for cooling are connected. They are usually at the bottom of the coolant radiator. If the circulation of the atf through the radiator is restricted, cooling the oil in the gearbox would be will impeded.

Car-Doctor.

kaykad: I HAVE DRAINED OUT THE AMBRO ATF AND WHEN TO OANDO AND BOUGHT A DEXTRONIII ATF AND REFILLED.but the D4 light is still not showing. please help

Your gear selector range switch may be the fault. Change it and observe if there is a difference.

The D4 light also has a light bulb that lights it up when the selector engages the gears. Check also to see if the bulb is ok.

Car-Doctor.

kaykad: PLS HOW DO U KNOW IF YOUR HONDA ACCORD BABY BOY AUTO TRANMISISON IS ABOUT TO GIV me PROBLEM. JUST BOUGHT accord 99 model RESENTLY AND THE D4 LIGHT IS NO MORE SHOWING after D mechanic top the oil WITH ABRO OIL and now the D4 light is not showing again>>PLS WAT DO U DO NEXT.PLS I NEED YOUR HELP VERY URGENT.

Remove that ABRO atf as soon as possible or else it would damage your gearbox.

Car-Doctor.

greenhulk: yes really. I have experienced such thing with my 05 and after much diagnostic I changed the inner shaft and the vibration reduced. It completely went away when I took another step in changing the entire air box which came with new filter and maf sensor.

I realy wonder how the inner shaft cup and air filter housing relate to the eventual resolution of the problem with your car. Inner shaft may have been bad. Air filter housing may have been loose. Was that the case?

Car-Doctor.

@ danadam

What car do you drive?

Car-Doctor.

delaw4u: Car doct am waiting,
Please I have not seen your reply 000
My vw passat 03
Auto tranny,1.8t
Issue
When I put the gear to D or R and I press the brake the car vibrate if my foot off the pedal brake it doesn't,if its on P or N it does not vibrate also
Please what to check on the car

Possibly a faulty Transmission Torque Converter or faulty Valve Body. Very common problems with VWs. Try a transmission fluid flush. That might help.

Car-Doctor.

[quote author=dan_dollar]Recently,My D light on d
dashboard sometimes
doesn't come on immidiately
when I shift from P to D.
Sumtimes, I have to touch the gear stick or shift it
out of D and back
before it comes on.
Its a 2007 honda
accord.what could be the problem?[/quote]Your gear selector switch may be faulty or not properly adjusted to the transmission control spindle.


Car-Doctor.

Something funny came to my mind this morning as I was driving to church.

I noticed this pretty lady also driving to church. In her brand new Hyundai Elantra. You could tell that it has just been recently launched because all the water and weather proofing are still on the car and the seats. Probably off to church to dedicate it.

Judging by the cost of the car and the care with which she was taking to esure that the car makes the journey in one piece, it seemed to me that she must be very conscious of the monetary value of the car in addition to the sole purpose of getting from A to B.

Example, if your car is worth N6m. Regardless of what car it may be, do you feel like you are driving around in a "suitcase" stashed with N6m?


Car-Doctor.

tkaymuo: I recently noticed that my car (Toyota camry 1998) drives rough and its very fuel thirsty. So I took it for vehicle scan diagnosis and some codes came up viz: P0141, P01130, and P01135 came up .please I need the help of auto gurus to help me with the meanings and correct expertise to rectify them . thanks in anticipation

P0141 OBD-II Trouble Code

Technical Description

O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1, Sensor 2)

What does that mean?

This code means that the heated circuit in the oxygen sensor on bank 1 decreases time needed to enter open loop.

As the O2 heater reaches operating temperature, the oxygen sensor responds by switching according to oxygen content of the exhaust surrounding it. The ECM tracks how long it takes for the oxygen sensor to begin switching. If the ECM determines (based on coolant temp) that too much time elapsed before the oxygen sensor began operating properly, it will set P0141.

Symptoms:

You will likely notice poor fuel economy the illumination of the Check Engine Light.

Causes:

A code P0141 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
•Open or short to ground in the wiring harness
•O2 heater circuit wiring high resistance
•O2 heater element resistance is high
•Internal short or open in the heater element

Note: Typically a failed catalytic converter does not cause this code. You're more likely to see a P0420 code for a failed converter.

Possible Solutions:
•Replace oxygen sensor (cannot repair open or short that occurs internally to sensor)
•Repair short or open or high resistance in wiring harness or harness connectors


The correct DTC number for your second and third fault codes are P0130 and P0135 (Not P01130/ P01135). They are both similar generic codes.

P0130/ P0135 - 02 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank I Sensor 1)

OBD-II Trouble Code Technical Description

02 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank I Sensor 1)

What does that mean?

The O2 sensor produces a voltage based on oxygen content in the exhaust. The voltage varies between .1 and .9 Volts, .1 indicating lean and .9 indicating rich.

The ECM constantly monitors this voltage while in closed loop to determine how much fuel to inject. If the ECM determines that the O2 sensor voltage was too low (less than .4 Volts) for too long (for more than 20 seconds (time varies with model)), this code is set.

Potential Symptoms:

Depending if the problem is intermittent or not, there may be no symptoms other than MIL (malfunction indicator lamp) illumination. If the problem is constant, then symptoms may include one or more of the following:

•MIL illumination
•Engine runs rough, missing or stumbling
•Blows black smoke from tail pipe
•Engine dies
•Poor fuel economy

Causes:

Usually the cause of P0130 is a bad oxygen sensor, however this isn't always the case. If your O2 sensors haven't been replaced and they are old, it's a good bet that the sensor is the problem. But, It could be caused by any of the following:

•Water or corrosion in the connector
•Loose terminals in the connector or severed wires.
•Wiring burnt on exhaust components
•Open or short in the wiring due to rubbing on engine components
•Holes in exhaust allowing unmetered oxygen into exhaust system
•Unmetered vacuum leak at the engine
•Bad O2 sensor
•Bad PCM

Possible Solutions:

Using a scan tool, determine if the Bank 1, sensor 1 is switching properly. It should switch rapidly between rich and lean, evenly.

1. If it does, the problem is likely intermittent and you should examine the wiring for any visible damage. Then perform a wiggle test by manipulating the connector and wiring while watching the O2 sensor voltage. If it drops out, fix the appropriate part of the wiring harness where problem resides.

2. If it doesn't switch properly, try to determine if the sensor is accurately reading the exhaust or not. Do this by removing the fuel pressure regulator vacuum supply briefly. The O2 sensor reading should go rich, reacting to the extra fuel added. Reinstall regulator supply. Then induce a lean condition by removing a vacuum supply line from the intake manifold. The O2 sensor reading should go lean, reacting to the enleaned exhaust. If the sensor operates properly, then the sensor may be okay and the problem may be holes in the exhaust or an unmetered vacuum leak in the engine (NOTE: Unmetered vacuum leaks at the engine are almost always accompanied by lean codes. Refer to the appropriate articles for diagnosing an unmetered vacuum leak). If the exhaust does have holes in it, it's possible that the O2 sensor may be misreading the exhaust because of the extra oxygen entering the pipe via those holes

3. If none of this is the case and the O2 sensor just isn't switching or acts sluggish, unplug the sensor and make sure there is 5 Volt reference voltage to the sensor. Then check for 12V supply to the o2 sensor's heater circuit. Also check for continuity to ground on the ground circuit. If any of these are missing, or aren't their proper voltage, repair open or short in the appropriate wire. The O2 sensor will not operate properly without proper voltage. If the proper voltages are present, replace the O2 sensor.


Car-Doctor.

tkaymuo: oga ikenna, Siena and car doctor pls help ur boy

How comes the scanner didn't explain the code's interpretation?

Something funny came to my mind this morning as I was driving to church.

I noticed this pretty lady also driving to church. In her brand new Hyundai Elantra. You could tell that it has just been recently launched because all the water and weather proofing are still on the car and the seats. Probably off to church to dedicate it.

Judging by the cost of the car and the care with which she was taking to esure that the car makes the journey in one piece, it seemed to me that she must be very conscious of the monetary value of the car in addition to the sole purpose of getting from A to B.

Example, if your car is worth N6m. Regardless of what car it may be, do you feel like you are driving around in a "suitcase" stashed with N6m?


Car-Doctor.

Siena: And an AWD SUV became FWD, right? LMAO. Next will be having Hummers retro-fitted with 1.8 I4 Honda Accord engines.

If you can post pictures, that would be great. Otherwise, I'm still sceptical. I just find it hard to believe any mechanic would do such a conversion (albeit a downgrade) yet fail to document it in pictures.

Sienna,

These guys do this here in Naija all the time. I would say that around 10% of the cars on the road here have had one conversion or the other done to it. From a RHD-LHD to engine or complete body or chassis conversions. No governmental regulations in place to ensure the efficiency of these conversions so no holds are barred.

From the look of things and judging by the pictures, the Freelander seems to have already been converted from RHD to LHD.

Most people that have had (or intend to have) conversions done to their cars have actually reached their wits end in trying to make the car work.

The Landrover Freelander in this case has always been a problematic car due to the k-series rover engine design with a high rate of cylinder head gasket failures. Most mechanics here haven't yet figured out how to make it work and owners of such cars are usually stuck with the desperation of getting the car back on the road at any cost even if it means inadvertently putting their lives on the line.

No one ever keeps documented photographs of these conversions because its not considered as an enthusiastic project. Making it perfect is the last thing on the mechanics mind. Its all about how to make it work and get paid. After that, you are all on your own.

Common failures include:

Fast wearing drive shafts and bearings
Excessive fuel consumption
Constantly breaking engine and gearbox mounts
Fire hazard due to careless electrical connections
Excessive vibrations and rattles
Wobbly and wheels and steering
Blowing exhaust pipes due to poor welding

Better to have bought a Honda CRV or Toyota RAV4 than go through all this mess.


Car-Doctor.

Your car problem could be one of many reasons and I can't speculate on what's not so clear. You need an experienced mechanic and auto electrician to go through it with a fine tooth comb.

Unfortunately we are based in Abuja and can't help you much but you can try Ben on 08033044026. I'm sure he would be able to help you out.

Car-Doctor.

Follow go nko?

issy1500: I own a 1996 toyota camry of over 335,000km that I purchased close to 2 years ago as Toks. She starts up fine, Drives well and idles correctly and does not throw any codes.
But I have always have this Challenge with the Excessive Fuel consumption right from when I bought the car about 2 years ago and she does not emit black smoke. It is really draining my pocket
Below is the life Data Scanned result from my hand held scanner under 3 different condition:

-------- TRANS IN PARK@IDLE , ----- TRANS IN DRIVE@IDLE ,---- TRANS IN PARK @2500RPM
DTC_CNT ---- 0 , ----- 0 , ---- 0
FUEL SYS 1 ---- CL , ----- CL , ---- CL
FUEL SYS 2 ---- N/A , ----- N/A , ---- N/A
LOAD_PCT(%) ---- BETWEEN 30.6 - 31.4 , ----- BETW 33.8 - 39.6 , ---- 27.5
ECT (F^O) ---- 192 , ----- 196 , ---- 187
SHRT FT 1 (%) ---- BETW -1.6 to +2.3 , ----- BETW -2.3 to +1.6 , ---- BETW -5.5 to +1.6
LONG FT 1 (%) ---- 4.7 , ----- 7.8 , ---- BETW -0.8 to 0.0
MAP(inHg) ---- 9.5 , ----- 11.5 , ----- 8.0
RPM(/MIN) ---- BETW 736 to 760 , ----- 752 , ----- 2540
VSS (MPH) ---- 0 , ----- 0 , ----- 0
SPARK ADV (⁰) ---- 5 , ----- 5 , ------ 37
IAT(F^O) ---- 104 , ----- 124 ,----- 120
TP (%) ---- 12.2 , ----- 12.2 , ----- 16.5
O2SLOCBIS12-B2SO2BISI (V) ---- BETW 0.155 to 0.840 , ----- BETW 0.155 to 0.840 , ----- BETW 0.155 to 0.830
SHRTFTBIS1 % ---- BETW -0.8 to +2.3 , ----- BETW -2.3 to +1.6 , ----- BETW -4.7 to +1.6
02BIS2 (V) ---- BETW 0.065 to 0.125 , ----- BETW 0.085 to 0.145 , ----- BETW 0.065 to 0.135
OBDSUP ---- OBDII , ----- OBDII , ----- OBDII
SYSTEM MONITOR REMARK ---- ALL MONITORS OK , ----- ALL MONITORS OK , ----- ALL MONITORS OK



I notice that immediately I depressed the throttle pedal @idle , I will have the SHRT FT 1 (%) as -10.6 ,LONG FT 1 (%) as +14.8 and MAP(inHg) as 13.8 and they will change almost immediately.

There is no vaccum leak and Air filter is new & ok and my car does not emit black smoke .

The Experts in the house please help. I don’t want to start throwing part.

Normaal voltage range for O2 sensors are 0.1 to 0.9 volts.
Your o2 sensor voltage parameter reading for for Bank1 is ok. The voltage reading for Bank2 O2 sensor is quite high. That may be the reason why your car is consuming much fuel.

Change your bank 2 sensor and also check if all temperature sensors are connected.

Also check to see why your radiator fan is on continuous operation. This could cause the electronic sytems to remain in closed loop for extended periods thus leaving the auto choke on for too long.

Also check the type of spark plugs in the engine. Your car manufacturer recommends Platinum or Iridium plugs and not copper ones.

Let's know how you get on. Good luck.

Car-Doctor.

Disconnect thermostat or remove thermostat. Which one do you mean? The engine thermostat or the aircondition thermostat?


Car-Doctor.

Not as easy as it seems. Welldone.

Car-Doctor.

chikasin4: Thank u Car doctor,
also i want to know when i put my ignition to on postion not starts position d radiation fan starts, pls is it normal. Thank u,Car-Doctor.

Very bad idea to have your fan on without the engine getting to its operating temperature.
There are so many posts on nairaland that explains the disadvantages.

Try this one:
https://www.nairaland.com/1061845/direct-connection-radiator-fan-harmful


Car-Doctor.

grimadult: Thanks doc,bt I need to take d car to minna before d overhaul. The question still remains if it can make d journey?

So sorry bro. I'm not a fortune teller.

Car-Doctor.

Damojo: Oga, u forgot this:

Always have 200naira change because of those riff-raffs on Oyo road asking 4 road worthiness!

What of the riff raffs on the Benin by-pass?

There must be water or water vapour entering through an orifice in the headlamp housing.

Most modern headlamps (including your Corolla's) are manufactured to be air tight so as to prevent dust or moisture from getting in and affecting the glare efficiency of the mirror like reflctor of the headlamp lens.

Some naija panel beaters would use a long self tapping screw to hold the headlamp unit in place after repairing an accident damage. They drill a hole (or several) into the unit and this would allow water or dust into the casing.

A headlamp bulb that is not properly inserted into the housing or loosely fit could also cause this.

Check for loose fiting headlamp bulb/s or completely remove the headlamp unit and examine for any cracks or drillings.

Car-Doctor.

The Toyota D4D is definitely diesel. Very economical and reliable but you don't see many of them in this neck of the woods called Nigeria. We just love the petrol engine cos that's what we've always been used to.

Nice one sienna. Pls post some pics when available.

Car-Doctor.

Wrong type of oil filter.

If the problem wasn't there before the service was done then its most likely that your mechanic fitted the wrong type of oil filter. The symptoms you described is typical of the wrong oil filter fitted which restricts flow of oil.

Compare with removed old filter and observe the differences in design. Try fitting the old one back and observe before stripping the engine down to change oil pump or switch.

Car-Doctor.

Siena: Good thread you've got going here.

Just so you know though - the ZF5HP19-A in the '03 Volkswagen Passat won't tolerate the regular red ATF! That will destroy the transmission. The power steering too won't run with any fluid other than VW G002 or CHF11S. If regular ATF is used, the seals in the PAS rack and pump will expand, and leak.

Thanks Sienna. I've not seen the VW G002 yet but I've used the personally imported VW G052162A2 or VW TL52162A2 which also Interchanges with ATF DEXRON III-H.

The challenge that we have here in Nigeria is that you simply can't walk into a spare parts shop and ask for these specific items. They just don't stock them here so adaptations have to be made by using the nearest variant which in this case is DEXRON III-H.

The DEXRON III-H can easily be sourced here so most VW, Seat, Skoda and Audi owners use the variants that within the DEXRON III band.

Due to the high rise in catalytic converter thefts from Cotonou port and borders, its advisable to read this thread also.

https://www.nairaland.com/1523351/beware-catalyst-stealing-mechanics-welders#19643216


Car-Doctor.

specco: Yea guys, I have finally replaced the stolen catalyst and my car is now rocking. I used half as much fuel to and fro work today in the same car that used to 'drink' fuel! The fuel economy is now performing excellently. I went to Ladipo with my mechanic and got it for N15,000 and paid N4,500 for labour. There should have been no need for all these stress if people were honest and less crooked in their deeds. Nevertheless, I am happy.
But pls car gurus, the check light on my dashboard is still on. Do you think there's any more problem and what can make this light to go off?

Scan the car and post the results here pls.

Car-Doctor.

Weak engine. Change it or completely overhaul it.

What's the mileage on this car?

Car-Doctor.

delaw4u: Tanx Dr
My car is 03 vw passat
1.8T
Auto tranny
Issue
The car vibrate when I put the gear to driver and reverse others none
2 its consume more fuel than it should be
Possible solution
Please Dr help I just aquired the car from us nothing has been done on it

I think you have an engine problem rather than a gearbox one. Have the car scanned first.

Car-Doctor.

awesome9ja: kindly advice me, i need a corolla but they of two types. which one will you recommend in term of durability, efficency, strong, maintaince etc. thankx

The Insurance company type is a lot better.

Car-Doctor

Coefficient: It is a 2004 model. I do not know what SES light is but the 'check engine' light comes on when the plug misfires, making the car jerk and unstable till the plugs are replaced.

I'll request for the recommended plug when I'm buying. Where can I get in Lagos?
Thanks for you response.

Replace with NGK Iridium plugs. They last for up to 100,000 Kilometers before renewal. It would also help your fuel MPG.

Car-Doctor.

klipse: I performed those test, it doesn't wander on level road, but if the road slants it wanders in that direction. I have jacked the ride up and wriggled like hell on each tire but the isn't a slack, its firm.

I suspect the tie rods, cos when i brake it turns my steering wheel. The car isn't accidented.

Change your Honda Accord to the 2008 model (HOLY SPIRIT). Lol