₦airaland Forum

Thank you for the feedback
I was actually planning on getting the 60A EAsun CC as it is said to be a better CC than the Powmr from the reviews I've seen but I will go for the Techfine instead.

Jefferyzz:
The 60 is sharp

Jefferyzz:
Techfine mppt

Are you getting upto the 60A front the CC? Or does it also max out at 50A?

lanre88:
Six pack care.

For those that want six packs

You can sell this as new because I don't have time to use it. Just bought it.

This is how much?

ifegen:
Back off. I'm taking the mattress

yomazon:
mouka mondeo spring mattress, 6ft x 6ft x 10 inches (never used) - 60k
vitafoam vita sizzler mattress, 6ft x 6ft x 10 inches (never used)- 50k

Ubiquiti NanoBeam ac GEN2 (used) - 30k
tp-link TL-MR3420 router (used, comes with box and all accessories) 10k
tp-link TL-MR3420 router (used, comes with charger and rj45 cable) 8k
CAT 5E cable (50 feet/15m, used) - 5k

contact number and location is in my signature.

50k for the Mouka Foam
You're unreachable chat/call me

Thanks all for your inputs, it has really helped me to understand the whole thing as I am currently considering investing with MBA forex as suggested by my friend...

@Op buying a double cell radiator, double fan and removing the thermostat is not the absolute solution for your problem as this might cause your engine to run cold which will damage your engine.

Do a proper diagnosis on the following:-

1. Check if your thermostat is still working or if you actually have one. If your car is running without a thermostat please do yourself a favor and get one and the appropriate one.

2. Check the functionality of your water pump (the internal blades and for corrosion etc).

3. As suggested by others check the direction of air flow of your fan and it's speed.

4. Make sure that you have a specialist check your electrical connections and revert all wiring to factory specs and also check your ECU and other sensors.

5. Check for Toyota's recommended coolants and mixing ratio with distilled water (65:35 or 60:40 of distilled water:coolant) for hotter regions like Nigeria.

6. Check for lickages and reflush your radiator with the appropriate chemicals and check for sludge build up.

7. Finally, do a proper diagnosis on your cooling system like the evaporator, dryer, compressor etc.

Reverting from factory specs is a bad practice that Nigerians love to do and that's why most people don't like buying Nigeria used cars due to abuse.

If your car came with single cell radiator and fan kindly leave it like that and look for the cause(s) of the overheating, as using or going out of spec might result to one or more cylinders misfiring, engine wear and tear etc.

Hope to see how you got it solved and the cause(s) of the problem.

Waiting patiently for those who will be considering upgrading their setup and willing to sell off their old system at a more pocket friendly price

NiyiOmoIyunade:
Again we start the never ending MPPT vs. PWM argument .

Most authorities agree that for small systems under 1000watts or so, PWM may be a better choice provided the right kind of panels with sufficiently high rated voltage and also matched to the battery voltage are used with a good PWM controller - besides the PWM principle of operation is simpler to implement and intrinsically less prone to energy conversion losses and heat generation than MPPT is.

MPPT's 30% additional yield is the *theoretical* maximum gain when performance is measured under STC - a cold, clear skies sunny day with temperatures around or below 25°C - I am sure such perfect conditions are scarce to come by in real life and these are amongst the reasons why hardcore old-school engineering firms like Bogart Engineering (makers of the Trimetric and other excellent battery monitors) don't make MPPT charge controllers but only PWM.

Where MPPT definitely trumps PWM is the ability to add panels in series to increase PV array voltage and convert this excess voltage to useful current for charging batteries esp. during the battery bulk charge phase -- [(with panels setup in series higher than the battery voltage one is generating the same quantum of power but with lesser amps PV side and therefore one is able to use thinner and cheaper cables for the PV to CC run. Simultaneously, the excess voltage that would be wasted if the panels were setup in series in a PWM config. is being converted to useful charge current flowing into the batteries if you use MPPT)].

Imagine you upgraded your present ~300watt PV array to 1500watts - your roughly 20amps peak yield now could be as high as 100amps in a 1500watt PWM installation - imagine the thickness of the cables you would need to use from your panels to the CC to safely carry 100amps current - something like 25/35MM thickness minimum With MPPT however, you could comfortably use 10/16MM cables for this installation and still have head-room for further expansion later. Also the higher voltage setup with MPPT makes it easier to overcome the inevitable voltage drop (think power losses) that is the bane of all DC powered systems [especially critical if the distance between the PV panels and Charge Controller is much] and then all the excess voltage that makes it to the MPPT controller can be converted to useful battery current.

It's a never ending debate really so I'll end it here but I'll leave a link to Bogart Engineering's MPPT vs. PWM analyis to broaden the knowlege base - in the end, I always advise people to sit down and do the fully loaded cost benefit analysis of both scenarios to know what works best for them e.g. extra cable costs with PWM may easily be offset by much higher cost of an MPPT charge controller as compared to a similar rated PWM one. I started off with a MorningStar PWM CC before I sold it off and moved to MPPT both technologies performed very well when used within their design limits.

[img] https://www.dropbox.com/s/de5rwiqqokckv7b/MPPT%20VS%20PWM%20VS%20MPPT.png?dl=0 [/img]

And a more condensed summary by another source ...
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/solar_controller_testing

Its great to see you getting so much mileage from such a small system.

On a lighter note, as far as I know, no man made electronics whether PWM or MPPT can survive a direct hit from lightening, nothing is immune to that much concentrated power - what one may do is to have mitigants lightening arrestor, equipment grounding, surge protectors like the MNSPD sold by marketers on here e.t.c in place.

Thank you so much for this beautiful piece of information... I strongly believe that this will go a long way to help the DIY enthusiast like myself who are yet to join the RE world to properly plan accordingly based on their budget, as the economy is not smiling on us ...

Saipro:
All powered on at the same time or staged?
Secondly, I'd rather we talk in terms of kW that kVA. This power factor of a thing isn't consistent across manufacturers and can prove a terrible bottleneck during system design.

For the record, state the power rating of the water heaters.

Having said that, 15kW should be more than adequate (most electrical devices are not supposed to be run higher than 80% of their rating, for lomg life, smooth operation, leeway for variations and surges, mystified power ratings by nameplates and a plethora of other reasons but most of all, personal safety).

Thanks for the reply I will verify that and get back to the house

Barezzi:
Go for 20kva.
All those loads ON at the same time, will draw over 13kw.

Ok thanks a lot

Good morning house

Please I need your assistance, someone want to change his inverter and want to import it from USA and needs it to power;


5x 2HP AC (from 7pm to 9am)

5x water heater (3 hours at most a day)

2x deep freezes (270w and 120w nameplate) 24/7

2x fridges (300w and 130w nameplate) 24/7

Led bulbs
1x LED TV
1x DStv
1x sound system
(Max of 5hours/day)


Can 15kva power them all or should he go for 20kva. As he was previously using 10kva/48v inverter with it (with 24x 2v/1500Ah GasTon VRLA batteries) but got burnt.

Thanks.

Dam5reey:
What's is the logic..?I get more power discharging to 50% based on life cycle.. that my point..

The logic is that @ 30% you can charge and discharge it 2750 times while @ 50% you can charge and discharge it 1750 times.

That means that while discharging it to 30% the battery lasts longer than when you discharge it to 50%.

kiekie1:
This 374L made in Romania freezer produces Frost / block like crazy and is also energy efficient.. You guys can give it a try OK !

Beko is a well trusted​ name when it comes to freezers and to me it is still the best in the market so far.

garbamaza:
Good night kiekie1, l have luminous 2.5kva 36v with three 150ah battery, how many 200w mono solar panels are needed for appropriate charging ?
Thanks.

Your total or average consumption will help in the sizing of your solar array, try and determine your power consumption in a day.

purplekayc:
Surround system : 330 watts
Home theatre: 500 watts

A normal 1000watts home theatre can not consume more than 70watts at a moderate volume

bigrovar:
Enough talk. Here is a video of what you have been apostling about here
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bzcTFUcXwIY?t=241 the second video here (with details on the different between grid tie inverters and Micro Inverters in an AC coupled system.) and their comparison with offgrid systems
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ma6TN0PkohI

Thanks very informative

bigrovar:
Check my signature for the answer to that question

I love what you are doing with the blog, full of knowledge with well detailed​ explanation and recommendation but I have a problem which is that I can't seem to comment or post anything there as the verification email for the disqus is not coming forth.

Please kindly advise on what to do to rectify this.

Thanks

cwoods2609:
hello house , pls I a question I have a 1.5kva 12v xantra inverter and a much power 2.4kva 24v hybrid inverter, I also have 10 100 watt solar panel. I want power my house total is 3 celling fan 10 energy bulbs 2 led tvs. am confused on which inverter I will be better of with, I have two 200amp battery I was told dat transformerless are not dat good on batteries and 2.4kva must power hybrid inverter is transformerless and xantra inverter is transformer Base

Hybrid inverters​ are mostly high frequency inverters and as such very very sensitive to loads That any little thing or mistake can render the inverter useless. Also most of their inbuilt SCC are not efficient which can kill your battery Bank faster.

As for the Xantra I can't really say if it can power your house as you left out the power consumption of the listed loads and those informations are important.

earthrealm:
for real..there is no made in naija panels, the local made in naija inverters arent good,usually modified sine wave, and not pure sine wave..thus inefficient and prone to overcharging and fire outbreaks.
zinox is not exactly made in nigeria, it more like assembled in nigeria, the govt and enviroment isnt helping at all.

i bought a remote controlled ceiling fan not long ago...and i opened the controller to observe. the circuitry is quite simple, and is what a secondary school student should be able to design and mass produce. it also has an inbuilt timer
i have fallen in love with the remote control aspect of the fan that i wish i can change all the manual controls of my fans to remote control. i wudnt mind buying just the remote controll unit 1k or 2k

You can check this out and know if it meets what you are looking for

Wireless 1way 2ways 3ways ON/OFF 220V Digital Remote Control Switch Receiver Transmitter
http://s.aliexpress.com/BZne2AVn
(from AliExpress Android)

efuro:
Your effort is yielding result.
I was shock to discover my 10mm cables (about a yard long ) is eating up my harvest to 0.5v. For instance my CC was pushing output of 27.6v to the batteries but what the batteries are getting is 27.13v the painful aspect is dat there is nothing I can do except try another cable gauge.

I was a bit happy to note also that my 2kva -1600w microtek inverter has idle running of 27w even though I believed it was higher before installing the watt meter

That could be measurement error from the CC or watt meter as they are all prone to some % of errors.

therealMcCain:
Thanks

The inverter make is Kevin 1400va, 24v

CC make is epever A trader series 30A, 100V

There is a button on the CC that toggles btw Pv -Battery-load parameters

I have checked that of the Pv parameters, though Will study the manual more

Pictures will be very much later as I am not around for now

On the wiring issues, will have the electrician or another one do a thorough check, I engaged this one cos he did the initial wiring of the house & to prevent these issues was why i went for a dedicated DB

On the inverter being charged, my question is why is the inverter supplying when it's Off

The inverter is off & charging I get that part

Why are my appliances coming on even though the inverter is off? Are the appliances being powered from charging source or the battery

Most inverters are designed to transfer the load on the inverter to the main supply when it is available and at the same time charge the batteries, so that may be the case but it could be different in your case Sha.

My take on it.

therealMcCain:
Thanks

I will send a snapshot of the balcony later

I intend installing the CC up but if the battery is placed at ground level, it will be exposed to rain cos water gets there when it rains

Secondly, everyone entering my flat will see my setup at once which I don't quite like, then there is the issue of operating the inverter by coming out of the house

I will advise you to install all the system inside as it will enable you to monitor and control them at will.

Just like efuro said try to determine if the CC has inbuilt cooling system and as for the batteries and inverter they can operate optimally at room temperature and in the case of abnormal raise in temperature due to lack of ventilation and pother factors then try the extractor fan as suggested.

earthrealm:
type it, convert to picture and upload the attachment, the spambot doesnt like calculations and stuff

Maybe the spambot failed mathematics in school

DMerciful:
Must power self consumption is about 100w. factor it into ur calculation of load.

JUO:
the manufacturers are all liars. My luminous 1.5kva Self-consumption is 40w, this is 960wh in 24 hrs. Believe me I have seen one unless 7.5kw cyber-power consume 350w. How do you expect your batteries to do 5 years with this?

That is to say that the best way to switch off you system of it is not on a 24hours working capacity is to off the battery to the inverter

earthrealm:
MY SETUP IS series 48v 4kw mustpower and i equalize every month or 3weeks,at 62v.its solely a phcn setup..no solar as phcn is fairly decent in my area 12 to 16hrs daily.
will consider swapping the batteries around to see if there would be any change, though i doubt.i also hv a desulphator permanently hooked up to the bank.
am guessing the batts may hv a factory defect, as my other set of mecury flooded are performing beta.

Are the Mercury flooded batteries also hooked to the Mustpower inverter? If no then consider checking the charging system of your inverter and also remove the desulphator and carry out all possible test to discover what could have been the cause.

Cheers

DMerciful:
http://nickelironbatteries.tictail.com/product/us-nife-battery-12v-100ah
http://encell.com/fused-iron-batteries/

Even for lead acid there are 2v 500AH people buy 12pcs to give 24v

Thanks for the reference I will look into it.

Same here I saw the same thing on pics but when I made enquires I was told it only comes in 1.2v

DMerciful:
Nope...there are compact 12v units from what i have seen in pictures.

Thank you so much for your response I appreciate it.
I did a little research on my own and find out that it only comes in 1.2v and requires a large number of units to make up system voltage, like 10 units to make 12v and that's a great deal of space consumption ooo.

DMerciful:
These Nickel iron batteries popularly called iron edison after the inventor Thomas Edison has the capacity to last 40 years or more without appreciable depreciation. They require some level of maintenance usually water replacement however the recent ones have integrated automatic watering system. They are very expensive, ofcourse, with such longevity they ought to be.

Please anybody with knowledge or ideas about Ni-Fe batteries should kindly share.

Thanks

emmaniche:
Good evening house, I’m new into green energy. But I’ve been mandated to make a quotation for the installation of solar energy at a particular location.
My main concern is the client in concern is really interested in monitoring the solar setup over cctv and if possible controlling the setup. i.e the charging and discharge rate, watts stored, battery level, switch time from NEPA to solar.
House is this really possible as I’ve been mandated to research into this and give back a quotation for the projected to be kick started.
Thanks very much awaiting feedback from u guys. God Bless.

You can use battery monitor like Trimetric with shunt for the monitoring of the battery, then install CCTV in the areas you need to cover.

Then you can use automatic change over with some tweaking to the control the NEPA and solar usage.

*In addition to the suggestion by solnergypower*

DMerciful:
LiFeO4: The Review

As promised, here is the product review for the lithium iron phosphate (LiFeO4) battery I imported from China.

LiFeO4 batteries are among the newest technology which offers longer lifetimes, better power density (the rate that energy can be drawn from them) and are inherently safer than other lithium based batteries. LiFePO4 is finding a number of roles in vehicle use and backup power especially in home solar/inverter applications. It is said to deliver over 2000cycles (5.5yrs if used every day) at 80% DOD and about 5000 cycles if used btw 30%-50% DOD(13yrs!!!) hence my attraction to this technology.

Packaging
The battery is house in a plastic container formed into a briefcase style design. I will rate the casing fair but will expect improvement in its structural integrity as time goes on.

It weighs about 13kg for 12V, 100AH battery and this weight is consistent with Lithium iron phosphate due to the presence of iron which is quite a heavy element unlike lithium polymer that is lighter(lithium polymer[phone batteries] are not as long lasting as lithium iron phosphate).

Internal Construction
As a DIY guy, I needed to see what’s inside this expensive box, so I opened it up. I wasn’t impressed. The cells were crudely put together, poor wiring with electrical tapes/foam packing holding wires/cells together…I was like what the hell!

Thank you so much for this review and for keeping your word. More Grace to you