₦airaland Forum

burac:
2004 Nissan xterra
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Travelled to abuja for work early last month and noticed my suv delays just a bit during gear change. Didn't bother about it that much till it continued and seemed to get worse. Checked the gear ATF stick sometime last week and found oil was low. Due to my work schedule had to top it up with seahorse dexron 3. I know it's not really a good one. But couldnt get Mobil dexron 3 everywhere I checked. Anyway finally went to apo to a mechanic recommended by a friend. He removed the ATF from the gear box and was about loosing the bottom plate of the gearbox so as to service and clean the gear filter but found it hard to unscrew like 3 bolts. Was late then cause he did other works also on the car. Told him to couple it back and put the new ATF I got. Called a nissan car parts dealer in enugu told me to get a matic D ATF. So used 5 litres of that. Drove it yesterday and it still felt same. Was at another mechanic yesterday and he said I should check the gear oil under the vehicle. Will try and do that today but want to find out what you think. Thanks .

Transmission is failing - gradual, persistent driveability terioration but, do a scan.

onlykach:
My automatic transmission for my honda 2007 jerks (with a screech of the two front tyres) when it tries to change from 1-2, 2-3 when the rev gets to 3rpm

when i am on 4 on the high way its all good ......

please advise

Scan the car.

Femtopford:
Kashif, I expect you to comment on our babies without mouths that we give any medication outside their own wish, well it's just a riddle. I believe that you comprehend my principles, let us obey the manufacturer's specifications and extend their lifespan.

That was deep.

Yes.

atuagbo:
1. Jerk in motion, it will slow down releases and zoom.

2. It only jerk on D-gear/shift .

3. It jerk when cold and hot.

4. When in pack mode, to move the gear from N-R and N-D always takes about 15-30 seconds before it engaged. Always strong to move.

5. Yes, clunking sound from the back wheel when applying and releasing brake in traffic.

6. I don't disengaged gear in traffic, only applied and released brake with the use of brake pedal.

7. It was last changed 3months ago.

1. Response not understood. Does it feel like it is in neutral for a while, and then re-engages?

2. D has four ranges in your case. You need to find out in which of the ranges it disengages.

3. Not a good symptom

4. I doubt this submission. I mean, when you put it in D, how long does it take before you feel the gear has engaged?

5. That's not what I meant. You may forget this.

6. When this happens again, select 1 and see if it responds instantly.

7. Was this problem the reason you changed it or was it routine? If yes, did the change make any difference?

Good luck.

0gbeni:
checked the wires, didn't find any loose wires.Thanks man

Can you itemize the harnesses you checked? Did you check the one on the transmission itself?

atuagbo:
which gear oil can i buy for my 2002 Nissian Altima

Its automatic. and i want to change the fluid.

The car jerk in motion and hold up. When am in hold up and I brake down, the moment my front is free for me to move I will release my foot from brake but the car will not move after some seconds it will jerk violently and start moving.

Have changed the start plug, fuel pump from V4 to V6, fuel pump sensor, brake linear, serviced injector changed the gear oil and so many other things.

I actually scanned and the result showed bad fuel pump sensor and it was changed, also the fuel pump pressure was checked and confirmed okay.

Please what could be the problem?

Your transmission uses Nissan Matic-D.

In auto transmission diagnosis, a lot of information is required. Can you describe the jerk in motion? In which gear or shift does is jerk? Does it also jerk when cold? Is there any other gear that is affected? How is the reverse engagement? How many seconds elapses between N-R/N-D selection before you feel the engagement? Is there any clunking sound when you are slowing down? In traffic, do you disengage the gear? How good/bad is your ATF?

Too many questions, but that is the only way to eliminate what is not causing your issues.

Femtopford:
Transmission transaxle/automatic gearbox shouldn't give any problem once you use the right and recommend fluid.

They will die one day, no matter what you use. They are mechanical pieces, and wear out with time, just like any tranny.

simpson2016:
He has savings to buy the car, so I doubt money to purchase it is an issue

Purchase is not where the problem is. Who says you cannot save up for a Rolls? It is running it as directed by the manufacturers. LR is for those who are able, and willing to throw money around. A 200k/monthish is not in that league, unless that vehicle would be his sole responsibility.

0gbeni:
usually after another porthole/bump

Check all wire connections in the engine bay for looseness. It is something you can do yourself.

simpson2016:
Hi guys, please a colleague and friend of mine wants to buy either a 2006 lr3 or a 2007 Ford Edge. Which is better in term of reliability and maintenance? We're aware the lr3 uses up a lot of fuel but he's leaning more towards it. Also also are there good mechanics Not kazeems oh that can work on the cars if there's an issue. He currently drives a corolla and want to change to get either of these Ghen Ghen cars. He lives in Surulere and works in VI and will drive daily. Currently services the corolla every 4 months and spends about 15k. Weekly fuel usage on the corolla is 3500. He earns 200k as take home and has the money to purchase the car. But he wants to know if the lr3 would cost him a lot to maintain. He plans to get comprehensive insurance. These are all his points but me I'm leaning towards the Ford Edge. My Google search shows that both cars were the safest for the years 2005-2008. Is the lr3 suspension issue very frequent Please assist as your advise will be appreciated.

Somebody who earns 200k is going to buy LR3?

0gbeni:
Good evening folks, I use an auto golf 3, I've
noticed that each time I enter a porthole/bump,
my gear refuses to change, the car's rpm just
increases, my mechanic is advocating for a
transmission fluid change but I want to seek other
expert opinions before taking a decision .thanks

What corrects it after this malfunction? another porthole/bump or self?

BTT:
Ok my Car does not move on 'D' early in the morning and after long parks. Most times, I start by shifting to D1 and drive for about 2-3 minutes before engaging the D, by which time it works very well.

Scan does not reveal any fault with transmission. Oil is milky and not burnt. Mileage is almost 400k kms. Never been changed, just oil change about a year ago. On the road alot. It's the 2000 Infiniti G20 i4 (the Nissan Primera/Almera 2.0 badged Infiniti)

Please what could be wrong?

Engine coolant is mixing with your ATF! It is not a nice place to be so, take the car to a good mechanic as soon as you can. Have money for a replacement radiator ready as you do. If you cannot have the transmission rebuilt and torque converter replaced, you should be looking at a whole unit replacement.

Grace!

Femtopford:
Yes Pato405, thanks very much for the recognition of Motorcraft. I had great challenges on Ford when I invested my workshop after being trained by RT-BRISCOE MOTORS as service engineer of their ford dept from 2005-2007 and also COSCHARIS MOTORS as workshop manager of their ford dept in 2007-2010. I almost run and become one of those that condemned Ford. Take for instance, you repair your transmission on Ford, it worked for a month and went bad then you were advised to replace it out rightly, it also worked for two months and went bad. You also visited a transmission wizard somewhere across the country, the transmission worked for few period and spoilt. All these series of events will cost you hug sum from your hard earned and great stress. This one of the challenges I encountered at the beginning. It came to a time that I had to remove transmission assembly in good condition from my Explorer and fixed on a challenged one it also went bad after few weeks, it was an hell experience. I almost went bankrupt because I had to refund in full most of the customers payment. At the end of the struggle, all those transmission were OK but being damage by the use those quality fluid so to say : dextron and others etc. Thanks goodness, I went back and adhere to the use of Motorcraft transmission fluid recommendation, since 2012 all my transmission repair have been successful. As far as am concerned, am not just a Motorcraft sales rep but strong and cogent propagating ambassador of Motorcraft spare parts.

Wait o, you were trained by RT-BRISCOE and Coscharis, and you did not know the right transmission fluid to use? Am I missing something?

whyteboyz03:
Good morning nairalanders . finally the issue was resolved by buying a new selector . now the transmission is smooth. I don't even feel it when the car changes gear anymore. Thanks guys for ur help

You either did not describe your problem well, or do not know what was replaced. The selector connects to the manual valve.

tumababa:
so if i ship 3 iPhones weighing 3lb and worth 1500usd through shoptomydoor, you charge me around 12usd plus 10usd fixed plus 150usd clearing fee making total of 172usd. is that right?

Shoptomydoor, please answer. That custom charge could be a deal breaker.

whyteboyz03:
My people una good afternoon. Please my gear just started something new for like 1 week now . when I start the car in the morning or when engine is cool, when its about to change the first gear, it changes hard and makes noise . I asked my mechanic to check and he said I need to fix my engine sitting and change the gear changer. He said the gear changer is 15k and engine sitting is 16k for front and back. Please guys could DAT be the solution and is that the right price for the items. Thanks guys

Cc : Gazzuzz and luvinhubby

Stay away from that mechanic

What has selector and engine mounts got to do with cold jerks?

GAZZUZZ:
Strainers at the top of every solenoid, cleaned using carb cleaner and a 9v battery.

And finally a trade secret.

Oh yeah, they say that tends to work with those transmissions, but the puzzle is why filters should restrain hot atf, when their viscosity is supposed to be lower.

Do you have a condemned BAYA transmission I can pick up?

lele007:
@
Kashif,
USAutobuy
IdaraCHODB

Thanks for helping out.

I don't think the transmission is about to die, given that its pretty normal when I don't drive for a while. Only acts up when it gets warm.

Previous ATF service the mechanic used something he shouldn't have (Oando or whatever, I wasn't there) and less than 3000 km later its now brown.

I think I'll just drain and fill 2 times within 500 miles with Mobil 1 synthetic to get to a safe level of bad oil dilution, and hope for d best. There's no debris on the dipstick as far as I can see, and in Jesus name, this same transmission will carry me for the next X ,000s miles till I'm ready to sell this car.

Amen? Thanks again.

I did not mean that your transmission is dying. I was only trying to correct the impression that atf change cures most transmission palavars.

Just do a few drain and refills, and you should hopefully be fine. A way to know if you have debris though is to drop a few drops of your atf on clean white tissue paper. They will show there.

Siena:
[color=Blue]To eliminate doubt and confusion, it is best if you state the ACTUAL year of any car you're enquiring about.

Because your VW Golf III is NOT 3-years-old. The last VV Golf III Hatchback or Sedan (Vento) rolled off the production line back in September 1998. The Estate and Cabriolet versions ceased production in August 2000.

At the very least, your Volkswagen Vento (or at least the one you're enquiring about was built in 1996, making it at least 10-years-old. [/color]

You meant 20 years...

GAZZUZZ:
Nice suggestion. But tcm and ecm are one unit on this vehicle. Would have to disconnect all solenoids to test.




So far after the cleaning, 112km and no problem found seems problem is solved.

Interesting! What was cleaned?

If you have to, the harness to disconnect is the one at the transmission end. Best of luck.

IdaraCHODB:


Yes, he is not replacing the tranny agreed!

But he has bad ATF which flows through the oil cooler lines and oil cooler. Especially if he did not use a synthetic ATF.

If the tranny has degraded so much, and he doesn't plan on replacing the tranny anytime soon, then i recommend that he puts two and two together, that is, make a learned inference from the above service bulletin.

his oil cooler is now clogged, same goes for the transmission lines, in addition to the dirts clogging the transmission itself.

So I would flush not with a machine but via the return line method first until fluid is clear, he may need up to 6 litres above normal ATF capacity to get this done

THEN

disconnect tranny lines and oil coolers

AND DO

a backflush, a flush and another backflush using fluids and air compressor methods

THEN

reconnect.

if he doesn't follow this procedure, all his new ATF will be immediately contaminated and will turn brown within 5,000 to 10,000 miles

each subsequent minor drain and refill without clearing the oil cooler and lines will continually increase the debris until the transmission packs up

So true, Mazda didn't say so, but I can infer that he needs to do it or pay the price of a transmission replacement in 30,000 to 50,000 miles.

From his post, I could not find enough information to deduce his atf has debris. A dying transmission will die, even if you use honey as atf.

[quote author=IdaraCHODB post=37267615]This link will absolutely surprise a lot of people as it goes against popular advice, proof that each car and sometimes even each model is different, and when giving advice that needs to be taken into consideration.

Mazda recommends flushing of its transmission cooler lines and oil cooler, I have evidence also that Honda recommends the same, but Honda is not the subject of your issue, so I am not going to post the relevant service bulletin.

http://miata.net/garage/tsb/05-008-11-2587.pdf

Your vehicle falls under the models 2004 - 2012 Mazda 3 except SKYACTIV

We have been doing Mazda for several generations and I have subscription to Mazda Dealer Level Information.

You have allowed that ATF to degrade too much. You must absolutely do something about it! You must absolutely flush the transmission via the return pipe method, and the transmission cooler lines and oil cooler and to avoid a transmission change. I see one coming within the next 30,000 miles unless you act swiftly on the above recommendation.

Extract:
Automatic Transaxle/Transmission (A/T) oil cooler and lines must be power flushed completely before an over-
hauled or replacement A/T is installed (except SKYACTIV-DRIVE).

The most common cause of repeat A/T failures is lack of lubrication to the front and rear planetary gears. This is usually caused by an accumulation of metal particles and debris (from a previous A/T failure) on the internal mesh type baffle of the oil cooler.

Power
flushing will remove the restriction by back flushing, followed by forward flushing to dislodge a restriction, then back flushing again.

This will in turn ensure full ATF flow for the transmission when it is operating.

You must absolutely use a high quality synthetic ATF in your Mazda transmission and install an external oil cooler in series with the OEM to protect your transmission and if you please an in-line transmission filter


What is the point flushing cooler line when you are not flushing the transmission? Cooler line flush is recommended for EVERY transmission replacement, which is not the case here. As a fact, many transmission rebuild shops will not honour warranty if it is proven you did not flush your cooler line before installation. Transmission problems risk after a flush is higher with debri-contaminated atf, than just degraded/oxidised one.

Drain and refill (a couple times) should do.

lele007:
Hello Cardoctor,

I drive a Mazda 3 2005 model with auto transmission.

The ATF is now brownish, sometimes, after extended driving, the car doesn't change thru gears properly, and one day the gearbox warning light came on. So I've bought enough Mobil 1 ATF to do a complete drain and flush, the problem is, all the mechanics I've spoken to don't have a professional autotrans flush machine.

Where can I do this fluid change, in a way that completely removes the old, degraded fluid, as opposed to a simple drain and fill?

Flush = risk
Drain and refill = recommended.

GAZZUZZ:
Thought about it, but it's more of a temp loss off power then sudden regain.

Problem seems fixed still test driving, by monday I'll be sure.

By the way it's an electronic throttle body and there are no codes.

If it starts again disconnect the TCM harness, drive it manually and see what happens. It would help determine if the issue is in or out of box.

GAZZUZZ:
Low RPMs less than 2rpm, from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd gear. Harsh shifting, like there was a temp loss of power.

Bros, this is looking like it is not a transmission issue again o. Transmission should not cause loss of engine power, unless I did not read you correctly.

GAZZUZZ:
Accord V6 2005

Erratic shifting, when engine gets hot (not overheating)

No codes on engine or transmission, transmission oil changed recently cause of problem but it still persists.

Kashif help!!

Could you throw more light on the erratic shifts? Particular shifts or just random?

Suspects: Valve body, torque converter, cooling line. Seals could be part of it though, but they tend to work inversely. If the car drives well up to the 4th gear when cold, rule filter out.

BAYA transmissions sha!

Etinosajay:
You can look at Friday/Saturday

Thanks

OP, scan the vehicle as you have been advised. It is very likely you bought a defective tranny

When you say 'ceased' do you mean 'seize'? Does it bind and refuses to move at all or just falls out of gear?

DECOtech:
Your transmissions slips when heated up. Its a fault with your tranny fibres. Pls, first run a scan on ur vehicle. Don't do guess work.

I keep saying this, friction disk (called fiber locally) failure is only symptomatic, just like headache. Friction disks don't just burn. If a vehicle has stock calibration, only two things would burn frictions - low pressure (not enough to keep the clutch applied) and cross leak (leakage into a clutch circuit, causing it to apply when not required, albeit weakly). If you do not cure these, you change your frictions in vain, as they will burn out again in a matter of days, depending on the severity of the problem.

I have an invoice. Thank God I was originally supposed to be on the 17th shipment.

But Chino, do well to update this thread, as 80% of your customers are here.

The regulars, when is this shipment due for collection?

This guy is unbelievable! How many minutes will it take him to drop a few lines here? Rock bottom customer service! Unless he is in custody, no other explanation suffices.

He is surely bidding lots of his customers goodbye

Abdul6:
@kashif...a heavy jerk while changing gears.usually from 1-2.Other gears r quiet nd smooth.

Your trans is most probably down with a single circuit failure, which an atf change would not cure. Atf, filter, pump, primary regulator have global effect on the transmission, not a particular range. If your clutch, valve or accumulator is bad, harsh shift will occur.

What else is affected? Gears ranges share holding members.