₦airaland Forum

And the beat goes on.... Well done o...

vazsily:
Am having similar issue with my highlander 07. Change d engine because d engine oil dried out. Now am at a cross road because d car won't move. My mechanic also think i should change 2 10 pin wch is a 100k compared 2 d 350k 4 d 13pin

Transmission working before engine replacement?

GAZZUZZ:
I don't have. But kehinde garutec sells and might hire. 08080311100

He is asking for much. I am sourcing from another means. Economy no pure; eye dey red everywhere! Thanks bro.

GAZZUZZ:
You have installed the transmission already?

Nope. For problem isolation in case of failure, I decided to test the valve body first. Any idea where to get the mini-vci?

Tested the valvebody on Saturday. Worked like a charm before warm up. Then after warming up, shuttle and flare on 2-3 set in! I pulled the apply chart and located the solenoid(s) responsible for making the 3rd gear happen. Swapped it out with the ones on my working valvebody, problem continues.

On Sunday, asked mechanic to return solenoids to original valvebody and install. I was not there, and in the process, considerable atf was lost. On testing later, the flare on 3 remained, in addition to delayed shift. Apart from this issue, all other functions are perfect. I had the TCM 'reset' but erratic engagement is still there. I could not get atf on Sunday so, was able to top up yesterday, which corrected the delayed shift as expected. Now, am not sure if the reset worked as Toyota said only Techstream could do it .

Is there anyone who has a Win7 compatible mini-vci?

omotades:
I'm tired now. Changed the oil to recommended one. one minute it works fine, next minute the problem is back. it will rev with no corresponding increase in its acceleration. No gear shift. it only works fine for like 5 mins if the vehicle had been previously parked for some hrs.

What I would advise is for you to replace that transmission.

Everyone - If your atf is dirty, and not giving you issues, don't change it. Keep driving it until it dies. From statistics, which I am part of, less than 20% of dirty transmissions survive atf change.

Azizi:
So in other words, when it shows the "O/D OFF", it means it's ON, and when it doesn't show at all, means it OFF.... is that it?

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Reverse is the case - 'O/D OFF' showing means its off.

Piyke:
They were some other machines which I couldn't identify... Dont know what they are used for

The big machine is a lathe.

Siena:
[color=Blue]Those Lada's (essentially Russian-built versions of the Fiat 124P) were really tough.[/color]

They way you remember and quote models, can you lend me some of your memory battery abeg?

mastro:
Very informative,
Another task that I know not to even think of trying

Surely not for everyone.

GAZZUZZ:
You read my mind.

LOL! But you told me earlier that you would like to get into it

omotades:
I asked a mechanic who has been servicing my Honda baby boy to service it's gear and engine having realised the atf was not totally pure as I could see some black particles when dropping some on a white paper and the engine oil was due for service. He finished and brought it home after which I discovered the gear was not selecting at all. for any of the gears to work, I would av to press throttle very well for it to move and the moment I take away my leg from the throttle, it will not move again. Be it reverse or any of the Ds. This was never the case before I gave him the car to service. I discovered he made use of one atf called amco dextron iii when I've been using seahorse dextron for a yr now. Can anything be done? Is it only a gear problem? I need answers , pls. This happened today.

It is transmission problem

The rebuild is complete. Testing is next

MrBuzy:
Where did it enter. I mean the two pipes on it.

Radiator most likely.

MrBuzy:
This is Odyssey 2002 to 2004 Gear Box. Please what is this thing on top of the gear box that looks like a cup(silver in colour). Where is the two pipes connected to it enter.

Not 100% sure, but those are looking like inline filter and cooler lines.

Lexusgs430:
Also ensure the mechanic has the tools to reset service light.

No tool is required.

yenboy:
I have collected my money and the car, what do you advice I do now? Since am far away from your location?

You will have to replace it.

Removal of clutch pistons is now a breeze! I removed an reinstalled this stubborn one a couple of times in fifteen minutes!

Now I face a different challenge. After changing the piston and frictions for this clutch, I have discovered the original pressure plate is a tight fit. I need a #3, instead of the #4 currently installed. If left as is, the frictions are sure to burn. They are already partially engaged; must find a way around it! On my next rebuild, I will order multiple pressure plates. I am aware of this possibility, but I did not know what I would need - smaller or bigger size. They are the only means of adjusting clutch pack clearance.

The tool is here! Lost a day because the metal fabricator made a mistake, and had to make corrections. The shoes' curvature is a little too tight, but that will do. It is multipurpose. When in use, the lower nuts are removed. The shoes have ample travel to cover lots of needs.

kingreign:
Bro, keep it up. We are watching in 4D.

uwemjack:
Still following and learning, well done bro

Thanks.

After that, I went on to remove the direct clutch, and was stopped! Because it has a shaft, my puller could not do much. After a lot of struggle, I was able to remove the balancer and piston, almost disfiguring the snap ring! Giving a monkey a cuip of water is not a big deal, it is collecting the cup! For hours, I could not install the new parts. It took time to get the snap ring back close to shape so, I could not risk stressing it again. Dashed to tools shop hoping to find something, anything but nothing! Went to a metal works man that I know can fabricate a toll to spec, and gave him a sketch. Will pick it up tomorrow. See the guy that defied my creativity

My major challenge since yesterday has been clutch piston return spring compressor. A process that should take 10 minutes takes hour or more! . I would pick, twist, pull etc! I thought I had that covered! Mistakenly installed a brake plate the wrong way, and it took me almost an hour to bring it out

In order to use the puller gifted to me by Gazzuzz, I had to improvise. I cut off 2 inches from a 4 inch PVC pipe, cut a piece of wood and placed it across the pipe as seen below. That setup enabled me get out the forward clutch piston. Installation of the news set was fairly easy too. One thing to add is that I had to discard the wood when it started shedding particles. Had to replace it with metal.

I was surprised at the sludge I met in the under drive chamber. I am not sure where this came from, but the interesting part is that it is emulsified! Every part of that holding assembly had to come out for cleaning. A million drain and refills would not have done anything here. This part is only lubed so, no pressure to get it out.

The clutch piston balancer has been affected. This was in the rebuild kit anyway

This is the differential. Am not gonna touch it, apart from cleaning - a typical hard part

My mechanic was not around so I start working the box. I must say it has been very challenging so far. There are lots of pieces, so its very easy to get confused. The best approach is to work on one assembly at a time. When this is not possible - struggling with some parts, waiting for frictions' soak period, all assemblies should be grouped together. I started with the bell housing. Transmission guys don't touch this side.

yenboy:
Thanks for your timely response.
Before I proceed want state here that am a newbie, what I mean is that this is my first car and the Experience I believed will equip me more. Haven said that, the dude fixing the car has did not mention what the problem was he only said that he can fix it? And that is will cost 35k and I gave him 20k and he is yet to fix my car either has he informed me what the cause of the problem is. from my experience before I paid for the car selecting mood was cool but it comes with a heavy sound when you place either on D or R. But the sound is more when placed on "R" secondly it doesn't have the force to climb any atom of hill when placed of D but when it does innate movement it moves well.

The annoying part he keeps giving me stories that he will fix but that I shouldn't rush, am kinda cool with because I have seen him fix on other people car the reason he stay mute or not willing to fix mine is what I don't know right now am losing it because is over 3 weeks now that I took the car to him courtesy of my mechanic who is not saying any word either.

Please help me.

The technician does not know what is wrong. Tell him to return your money. I suspect your accumulator is leaking or, the clutch pack clearance is out of range, or your primary pressure is too high. Is the gear selection too firm while driving? I actually do not believe in repairing auto transmissions; a complete rebuild is better. My reason - transmissions age and wear, gathering debris, emulsion etc. These clog bores and degrade seals. They fail one at a time so, targeting a failure point gets you going, but there is no guarantee. Unfortunately, you are far away.

By the time he is done, you could be facing a replacement.

yenboy:
Compliment of the Season,

Please I own a Toyota Camry 2006 never knew it was 13 that was converted to 10 pin and I bought the car of a friend after my mechanic assured me that the transmission selection was okay that all I need was to service the car and change the oil for the gear box and engine oil.


But before then I noticed that the car can't climb or better doesn't now have force to move but when it does it moves smoothly and makes a hard noise you place it on Drive and the noise is even worst when you place it on reverse. my biggest challenge is noise, just want the car to transmission to work normal and and for 3 weeks my car has been with the so called best hand we have here to information about the progress of his work all I keep hearing is am working on it. Please Doc. What's your professional advise on the steps to take secondly if is possible can you recommend any one within Bayelsa that can fix this issue for me please??

Will be expecting your timely response.

Did all these start after the oil change? What did the expert say is wrong? A couple of issues will cause hard engagement, ranging from worn clutches to leaking accumulators to atf.

In the end, here is the rebuilt valve body! Next is testing. The idea is to test it in my working transmission. That way, any problem isolation would be easy. Meanwhile, my focus now falls on the box itself. That should be pretty straightforward. There will be limited pictures and details though.

The separator plate had eight of its holes enlarged a little. Many of the checkball baths got improved supply. Sorry there is no picture. Getting the very tiny drill bit supplied to fit into a drilling machine was a challenge. Some of the holes were for improved lubrication. Below are the new check balls in their baths. There are 11 of them.

The job on the valve body has been completed.

I had to adjust the primary pressure regulator valve. It has five settings, which can be adapted for various uses. A setting for a sedan is different from SUV, considering engine capacity as well. The pic below illustrates that.

kikid:
Correction, its a front wheeler, because there isnt an Aux drive on the gear

For sure, something broke. When you replace, you fit dash me the old one? OK, I go pay chinkili money

colossus2:
Budget about 240k.
Gearbox + auxiliary 180-200k
Transmission oil 8-10k
Workmanship - left over balance (depends on your mech)

Which one be auxiliary again?