₦airaland Forum

dannydevito:
Thanks a lot all of u though still need more advice would run a scan then come back with d codes

Nobody wanna believe he is about spending on major drivetrain member. It's natural.

Abdul6:
Hi guys, am.currently experiencing a heavy shift btw gears 1 - 2 in.my car. Changed d gear oil using the original Toyota Atf oil. But problem still.persists.
Pls advise.

What do you mean by heavy shifts?

abbeYhart:
Am suspecting one or more of your engine mounts...Try to inspect all of them to check they are in good condition.

Interesting.

[quote author=uhuns post=36738263][/quote]I am a trained Rebuilder, and if you have ever opened a failed transmission due to fliud seal failure, you will understand that nothing will help you than to replace the seal. Forget those adverts.

Obiagelli:
They don't exist or they don't work? I know of Lucas sealant and conditioner

Okay, maybe better to say they do not work. You can get functional friction modifier but sealant and coolant? No.

If the atf is dirty, a gradual replacement is advised. Otherwise, go full throttle. There is another method where you can disconnect coolant/transmission return pipe, point it to a clear bowel. Have another person run the engine at idle, and a third filling sump with new atf. As soon as the monitor sees clean aft coming from the pipe, the engine is stopped. Level checks are then run.

Crude but works!

uhuns:
Sealant means the one that can stop leaks.

And the coolant means the one that can assist in cooling.


The one means additives.

Additves mean some tins you put into the main tins....eg in chemical terms Maggi cubes na additives to soups and stews.....

They do not exist

Here you go.....there is no dipstick....

If you are checking the ATF level, start and warm up, pass selector through all ranges and return to P, remove the check plug (5mm allen) on the bottom. ATF should just dribble out of the hole. If not, you need to carefully fill until it starts coming out.

lomomike:
@ least I don busy small like Piyke, Gazzuzz, Siena et al by dismantling motor. Today, I'd still expose it to dry properly, then reinstall all components.

And you dey look for building contract, not knowing you are called to be a vehicle laundry man? See money oooo!

*runs out of thread*

You should be fine with DextronIII.

ophilly:
2000 Toyota Sienna

DECOTECH's procedure should work, while making sure the vehicle is standing at zero gradient.

JhaayYoung:
As much as I appreciate all the comments above, I virtually understand none of it.. Will google thier meanings... Thanks

Have you scanned the car?

cocoduck:
Vaccum leak

How is that?

Your friends are right.

DECOtech:
Start your engine, pull the gear select lever from P tru R N D to 3 2 1 depending on how your selector us labelled and then back to P. Leave ur engine running while you pull out the auto-tranny fluid dip-stick. Wipe it clean, dip n pull out again and observe the fluid level on the dip-stick.

Cheers.

bravolad:
Before doing the above, drive for about 15-20 minutes to allow engine warm up. Then, follow the above step. Your manual should also give you additional information.

The way you check ATF level varies from vehicle to vehicle.

OP, you must state the vehicle you are checking before you have a valid procedure. You don't need to drive the car for it to get to optimal temperature.

JhaayYoung:
Noticed for about two weeks now that my car stalls at times when slowing down. It's a Toyota Camry 1999 model. It happens about twice a day.. When I am driving on a rough road where I have to slow down or coming down a sloppy rough road. It stalls and I have to shift the gear to park and restArt the car..
HELP PLsss!!

Given the info above, its with your torque converter clutch that remains engaged below the required speed limit. This could be caused by sticking solenoid, valve or even faulty VSS. Have the car scanned first for clues.

lenuchi:
Hi OROZ, it's really good to have found this thread... nice work you are doing!
Similar transmission issues (jerking and slipping) started suddenly with my RAV4 (2006 Limited V6 2WD) on my way to Abuja from Lagos. The thing packed up shortly after Okene. The trans had to be opened, thoroughly flushed and serviced. It still got burnt few days later. Anyway, its been fixed again... major overhaul. The car drives like new now, but sometimes there's hard shifting at gear 3. Sometimes R thumps in. Sometimes D takes a second or two to engage. Sometimes there are no issues at all.
My trans mech and I now feel its ECU-related, since code C1201 showed up. What do you think? If it comes to a replacement, how much will an upgraded ECU cost? What is my default ECU part number? The upgraded one for the car will be what, please?
Thanks a lot man.

Your vehicle does not have the ECU problem that plagued the 03 models. Dou you have an idea what was overhauled in your transmission?

GAZZUZZ:
Hyundai elantra 2008 automatic transmission.
Mileage (60,000)

Owner drained transmission oil and filled it with seahorse dextronIII 2years ago, now transmission is making funny sounds when hot.

Tranny will be drained and flushed via the heat transfer pipes to radiator with KIA SPIII fluid. Hopefully damage to the transmission is not too much.

Personally I feel Kia and hyundai make rugged transmissions.


Washed and ready to go.

They source their transmissions from many manufacturers, from Jatco to Aisin to ZF to GM. They only came up with theirs in 2013, making them one of the very few auto makers with their own transmissions. I would be personally scared of their cars fitted with any of those.

Meanwhile, book two spacers for me

kaeforum:
My Honest and sincere opinion based on my personal experience, most of the fairly used cars (especially the Nigerian used ones) advertised on this forum are very neat cars yet offered so cheap, I discovered most of them are automatics and have serious transmission issues that explains why they are offered cheap cos the repair cost apart from being too expensive are not guaranteed to last.

I have nothing against autos, but our mechs still havent figured them out yet, all they do is to dismantle the gear box and persuade you to buy another unit with a 50 percent chance of success.

I agree with this completely, but disagree on manual being the best for everyone in Nigeria. I know many people who will pay anything not to drive a manual.

For sure, auto transmission repair is a nightmare in Nigeria. I have experienced it but, do I wish to drive a stick in Lagos? No way! I spent all the money to be able to still drive the auto. My terrible experience, and the helplessness we all face have prompted me to start looking for solutions.

There is hope in the horizon...

I4 2012 Prado?

This means I know nothing!

kaeforum:
MANUAL GEARBOX IS THE BEST FOR NAIJA, OUR MECHANICS ARE SIMPLY NOT EQUIPPED TO FIX AUTO GEARS.
OF WHAT USE IS A CAR IF IT CANT LAST UP TO 100,000KM HUH

Your opinion.

GAZZUZZ:
Re-adjust park neutral switch, if it does not work have it replaced.

It's on front right side near the wheel.

https://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/rmldaytona/2012-03-24_225304_1.gif

I wonder why this same code got cleared the first time without touching the PNR switch.

From Honda, the code says: Short in transmission range circuit switch (multiple shift-position input). Associated monitor: Comprehensive.

P0706 is for open. Honda could be funny with codes sha.

adanny01:
Guys, my car is at it again.

I had engine mount problems which led to my replacing the rear and the left engine mounts this afternoon. There was tight space to remove the bad rear mount. The mechanic had to move it repeatedly pushing stuff out of the way. Engine harness passes around there to the ECU.

All repairs finished with good result and even took it to car wash 300m away for only external wash. I left the car wash and 500m away CEL came on with D light flashing and N light staying lit. I parked, scanned and got P0705 same code from beginning of this thread. I checked to see if they pushed out any electrical connector especially one that leads to Park/neutral position switch but did find any. I cleared the cel hoping my little trouble shoot would hv accidentally solved the problem. I got the cel the next 500m. It still drives good and shifts well too. The cel keeps coming back after few minutes of driving.

I dont know if i should investigate the ECU for water like last time or what? The problem isnt exactly like before with this one less DTC's and less errors diaplayed at the instrument panel. The coincidence with all the activity around the engine harness gives me concern.

Which Honda is this? Engine? Checking the ECU is not a bad way to start, but you need more time to get to the root.

When a device or sensor is mentioned in a scan result, it does not necessarily mean the sensor is bad. A circuit involving it is malfunctioning. You will have to check all cables for short, open, leakage, etc.

Happy belated birthday.

switosman:
4. Is the transmission honda recommended?

OP, 1-2 shift does not happen when you are speeding. Scan the car.

BabaTony:
I noticed that my car (Honda Accord 1998-“baby boy”)of late losses RPM suddenly despite my pressing of the acceleration pedal when on a journey but i get the engine power back if I really press down the accelerator pedal which after some time after changing to gears three or four the problem will start all over, now this happens erratically , I have not been able to notice any pattern like when the engine is hot etc. eg. i have driven the car all through this afternoon today and it didnt happen but happened in the morning period. The gears are also changing normally. I have just changed my ATF and engine oil and even the plugs recently. I have also cleaned the IACV but the problem still exists.
The RPM loss doesn’t happen when the car is in "Park" and I rev the car, it only happens when the car is in "drive gear"i.e when I’m driving the car. what else can I check?

Have it scanned and see if any codes come up. You seem to have ideas about troubleshooting

aristocrat:
bro, pls am having dsame problem with my honda baby boy 2001 model.
once my drive 4 is blinking it doesnt move well, later it will pick, this same problem damaged my first gear box, i bought another gear box, d same problem persisted despite all scanning. right now i cant use d car. pls can u give me ur no or something?
i just need someone i can talk to on this issue cos av spent so much still not getting result.

What is the result of you scan? You may be having an underlying electrical issue. Was it the reason you replaced your original transmission, or something else went wrong, and this one started after a swap? Your mechanic should check the transmission harness. If your car is I4, it is easy to swap the SSB and SSC connectors with CPC solenoid A and B harness connectors. Use wire colors to identify the correct harness connectors.

See attached.

bojokayode:
Pls I need urgent help.I serviced my car engine&gear last week Monday&travelled with it to Osun State.I discovered that the light on d D4 was blinking&the car was jerking to select&not driving well.I stopped to check what the problem was but detected nothing.So whenever it starts blinking&jerking before changing gear,i switch off the ignition&put on again then it starts working fine.For sometime, It accelerated&drove well.But came back again on the return journey to Ibadan.Again I had a smooth ride to Lagos from Ibadan.I Complained to my Mechanic who said it was the oil used(Sea horse) that I'll need to change it.I did that yesterday to Holts& d problem went wild.This time,it doesn't select at all, still blinks on the dash board.early this morning,I tried taking it to the mechanic only to discover that it goes offwhenever I put on drive but the reverse is still good.
Pls I need ur suggestions as this will help my decision.

You just post this and expect magicians to go figuring out your car details?

IamforGod:
Are you his mouth piece?


If not mind your business.

And this is your business?

IamforGod:
Shattap!! Customers are always right.
It's either you. Tell your story or just apologise cos this will affect ur business wether u like it or not. Me sef don dey discouraged. Rubbbish!

State your point without distaste. This thread is not about Gazzuzz!

autowiz:
Get your mechanic to disengage the propeller from the gear. Then try moving it and see if the propeller rotates. Then you can confirm if its the trans axel that is stuck. If it still doesn't rotate then its from your gear( possibly the parking prawl not disengaging

How can the shaft rotate when disconnected? Please can a vehicle have transaxle and 'gear'?

isseke:
i went out with my infiniti Qx4 1999. when it was time for me to go back home. the vehicle will start but cannot move no matter how you accelerate.so i got a mechanic but he could not figure out what the exact problem. please i will appreciate the contribution of expert in the forum thank's

I assume you dont have forward or reverse movement.

When you select D or R, do you notice any engagement? If you do, you are most likely faced with a broken rear internal ring gear. The welding of the ring to the shell breaking and remaining inside RE4R01A is known in the industry.

But, see if you get anything off the TCM.