₦airaland Forum

abuhubaidah:
check the wheel sensor

What has wheel speed sensor got to do with loss of 4th gear??

Forget it. It works for a few hours and then, they are back in droves!

What works for me is postman. Get it free from Google play. Downside is that any text from unsaved number gets censored too. But you can view and pick the ones you want as trusted.

Macmilla:
Nobody has given me any reply. Please pals, help a brother.

Have the car scanned first.

honmusa:
The red light is an indicator to show that the seat heater is turn on and to turn off the heater u switch off the red light to neutral .

Wrong.

OP, follow Shagati.

Can anyone access Chilton website from Nigeria? I think the thing is filtering IPs.

Anyone?

Costee:
@Kashif, just a quick question: Is it not possible for the solenoid to go bad (get stuck) electronically? Must it be blocked to get stuck?

Not with performance (Ratio) code. If it is an electrical error code like P0758, P0753, etc, then the solenoid has an electrical problem. Even this code does not mean the solenoid is bad necessarily. The ECU has an inbuilt ammeter that constantly monitors the solenoids. If the ECU's monitoring system is bad, or there is a short or open in the transmission harness, this code will be set. It means the electrical feedback from the solenoid is out of range. With solenoid electrical codes, you should not go to the transmission.

With both codes, test the solenoid first. Electrical - check for resistance across the terminals, and check for clicks. Performance - check for movement and leakage. When you hear 'solenoid stuck', it is mechanical.

Hope this helps.

I appreciate the responses.

oluseyioba:
D ATF is clean,changed it last yr,do u hv an idea whre n hw much I can get d solenoid,tanks boss

DO NOT CHANGE THE SOLENOID. It'll be a waste of money/effort. If your solenoid is really stuck, is can be easily freed. Let me explain to you. If you have a solenoid electrical error, it is between your computer and the solenoid - bad solenoid, or bad computer to solenoid connection or the computer. If you have a solenoid performance error, it is between your solenoid and the gearbox - stuck solenoid, stuck valve, worn bore or bad clutch/brake.

In this case, your mechanic needs to first check if your solenoid is mechanically free. Then he should look at the valve body. Depending on his competence and tools, this could be fixed.

The mistake mechanics make is to go replacing solenoids as soon as the scanner writes 'solenoid' in the error.

Costee:
It's a malfunction of the Shift Solenoid Valve SL in the valve body. Unlike P0773, it's not an electrical issue. Goggle it and the code. There's a whole lot of information on it. Installing a new solenoid should solve the problem. How clear/clean is your ATF?

This is a performance error, so replacing solenoid will not solve it. The solenoid is good, but something is either preventing it from working, or preventing its orders to be effective. Its between the solenoid and the box itself.

OP, What is your atf level? Given the cost of a used unit, you may have to go for it.

oluseyioba:
Gm gurus in d haus,my camry 1997 V6 has got this solenoid E error and now it disengages from drive sumtimes wen am moving at a low speed...dunno wat to do about dis?plus d car jerks when I engage the reverse,it doesn't jerk though if the car has been parked 4 a long while... I wanna know hw much it would take to replace d gear or if anyone can work on the gear for me...am in edo state atm...thanks

As in electrical error?

youngalex:
Thanks all,please where can I run the scan here in Lagos?

You need to get hold of GAZZUZZ.

Stylz69:
Very good advice. I go to Neutral at traffic lights and pull my hand brake. I don't know how true it is but I read that leaving your foot on the brake too long especially when they are hot heats up the rotors and could warp them. Whether this is true or not, I just go to N and pull my hand brake.

You only overheat your rotor on extended brake application while the vehicle is moving, like during a descent running into hundreds of metres. If the car is stationary, no friction.

Economists in the house, is there any valid prospect of Buhari's government reviewing Naira's value upwards after coming into office?

I have some hard currency holding.

abatically:
Get a tokunbo gearbox, its about 70k now. I know this sounds harsh, but most if the times when this kind of things happen to a Honda (especially EOD), changing the transmission becomes the safest option. U can still scan the car to be sure, but dextron iii that u have in there is not the right atf, changing to z1 might already be too late.

Moreover u might not find z1 because it has been discontinued by Honda, they replaced it with dw1. One quart is N2,500, u will need 5-6 quarts which is 15k. Dextron iii is for temporary use, and if dextron iii is already slipping, then better change the tranny and fill with dw1.

It is not slipping, but rough engagement. Suspects - 2-3 accumulator failure, clutch pack failure, valve body or plain electrical fault. Proper scanning is the way to go, but a transmission replacement might be in the works.

OP, many things could contribute to transmission failure. Drive the car in 2 and 3 and observe how it fares. Check for sustained engagement and engine braking.

What else is affected? Is it better, worse or same at different engine temperatures? I don't think your atf is the culprit, but it is the first thing people suspect. You may be having a single element failure.

Scan the car, but know that due to some characteristics, Honda transmissions could be annoying!

New or old, AC puts extra load on the engine, and it will consume more fuel to avoid stalling. However, the bigger the engine, the lower the fuel consumption difference.

I don't know if this has been discussed before, but I believe we all can do it again and learn.

There has been debates on where to leave the auto transmission while in traffic, or red light. I was of the opinion that it should be left in D, as user manuals (ones I have seen) do not say otherwise. I have also heard auto mechanics (some, 'experts') say it is best left there, as that is the way auto transmissions were designed to run. Somehow, this lays credence to the 'leave it in D' divide.

However, I have been exposed to better understanding of how the most complex part of our automobiles works.

The torque converter (TC) contains the highest atf volume of all moving parts in the transmission, and is what actually 'connects' the engine to the transmission. The TC has three vital components involved in the fluid coupling - Impeller, stator and turbine. Impeller drives the turbine, helped by stator. When in Neutral (N) or Park (P), no holding element is engaged in the transmission so, all the components of the torque converter are spinning freely. In this state, the transmission is generating the least heat.

The moment you select D, and the wheels are held, the turbine stops rotating. This is when the TC starts increasing it's heat generation, as the oil that was freely flowing between the impeller and turbine is now passing over stationary turbine. The stator may also be contributing to increased heat. We know that heat is a major killer of auto transmissions.

You also lose some fuel as the engine sees that engagement as load, and tries to compensate.

These days, some new and complex auto transmissions like the ZFs automatically select neutral at idle, irrespective of what the driver selected, and reverts to first at trottle input. Fords with the double clutch requires you to go neutral at stop, to prevent overheating.

I believe it is better not to stay in D in heavy traffics. Now, is P better than N? In traffic, you see cars in front flashing their reverse lights at go, meaning they switched to P at stop. Well, if you are on a flat road, and lazy to keep your foot on the brakes, use P. If you are on an incline, avoid P, as the parking gear (and pawl) will carry the weight of the vehicle, and will gradually wear on frequent disengagement. If you must, use your parking brake first.

My personal verdict is to use N instead. It is closer to D than P (you avoid passing through R). It comes with less wear in the transmission. In all, always remember to use your parking brake!

Enjoy your Sunday.

tonychristopher:
Dude fwd.and rwd serve d same purpose and let me enlighten u

It cost more to produce rwd so manufacturer opt for front wheel so tvey maximize profit.

Rwd is better
Manual is car for men

Fallacies have been prddled here for long

My e

First of all, you cannot enlighten me, as you are devoid of inherent logic.

A fixed wing airplane and helicopter are both aircrafts, but they serve different purposes. Would you say a chopper sucks because it is slower, etc?

Think efficiency, cost, traction, take off; think FWD. Think performance, handling, stunt; think RWD. They both connect the engine to the wheels, but they deliver differently. If you know auto 101, this should not be tough to digest.

tonychristopher:
I did and I am sure of what I post but I will be appreciative if I get facts that are against my submission

I love the dudes here unlike most sections that are filled with kids


Hope u bought my tropicalization stuffs

Until you post original thoughts, you are not the one arguing. Give credit to IPRs!

There are reasons for FWD and RWD. They are different, and serve different purposes. Waiting for you to also bring up manual tranny vs auto tranny; oranges vs apples.

You think you are here to burst bubbles? Nope, you are rather advertising your ignorance.

chuksmoney:
My friend's car is a 2005 model 2.4l A6 C5, it has gear issue, the TCU of the gear needs replacement.... He wants to sell me the car. Please advise?

Is it the gear that has issue or the TCU? They are two different things.

UncleDeeee:
Have a 2006 camry. Changed my gearbox from 13pin to 10pin and I think it's not shifting properly.

Why would you do that? We'll, check this thread, it was discussed extensively: https://www.nairaland.com/1364064/automatic-gearbox-problems/8

Cant something be done about this dude? Does he not know the word 'plagiarism'?

@Mike!!

Interesting but ignorance-oriented thread.

USAutoBuy:
My apology if i come across as a bit harsh. In my experience its a bit tricky to give exactly how long something like this can last. 2 drivers with exactly same make and models of cars and no matter how identical living conditions will experience 2 different problems with their vehicles over time. Simply because the driving habits will be different.

If the OP has a lot of stop and go type of traffic, it MIGHT not last as long as someone that drives mostly on the express. So giving an exact duration of how long it will last might be very inaccurate.

So, since its now known that there is a problem, just enjoy the vehicle as long as you can before you can gather resources to change the gearbox back again.

Once again, its not my intention to be rude to you.

Regards

Well said.

USAutoBuy:
I am still amazed about some questions here. When the brainbox is designed/programmed differently to the actual gearbox. The speed ratio that the vehicle should change gears is different for a 4 speed and a 5 speed transmission. This is what makes the rough shifting and will lead to unnecessary and premature wear of the gearbox components and untimely failure.

The designers who designed the gearbox must have a reason for doing so otherwise they wouldn't have.

There is also a possibility that the petrol consumption may not be as good as it should be cos gear 5 supposed to be the overdrive. The one you have there is 4 speed. The brainbox will be confused.

Sometimes people expect the right result with a wrong input or may be they just want someone else to say what they want to hear and make them feel good.

The whole car is an equation. Changing a variable (gearbox) out of that equation will change the result. How else can that be more simple

The OP is not expecting the same result from 10pin as 13pin. He has emphasised his desire to get 13pin as soon as economics favours him. He is only scared the 10pin could ruin his engine or maybe, drive train before this happens. The answer is no.

Concerns should be how the ECU interprets control signals and drives the transmission control transducers. If you have a technical prognosis, please share.

cardoctor:
USAutobuy has answered your question. The gearbox would eventually pack up and you must replace it to 13 pin to solve the problem.

Out of curiosity and education, could you let us in on what would eventually kill this transmission? Learning, thank you.

bebedlolo:
I said it is 1-2 because I notice the forward jerk when I am accelerating from idle state to a faster movement. It was cos of ur last explanation where you said it is 3 that was likely skipped, that's why I said maybe it is 2-3 that jerks when I am driving.So it is not that I have confirmed it is 2-3, I am guided by ur feedback Sir

The shudder point is easy to determine. From rest, accelerate and count the shifts: 1-2, 2-3, 3-4. From there, you will know where its happening for sure.

The reason it is likely happening in 2-3 is because the engine speed is higher than the mapped speed for that shift. The 10pin is shifting from 2-3 when the ECU is actually commanding 3-4.

Just have it in mind that 10pin on a 13pin car will NEVER be the same. The performance and efficiency difference is wide. Just drive it like that. Who knows, you might even get used to it and 'forget' the 13pin.

GAZZUZZ:
How I go do sir?

Chairman!

Make una do insurance join am o. Insurance is better than tracker o!

bebedlolo:
Great! This explanation has nailed it. Then it means it is the delayed 2-3 that jerks the car forward with force right?

I thought you said the shudder is at 1-2? Have you now confirmed its 2-3?

Izyokeke:
Thank you Kashif, but I know dat u started with somebody's car. God bless

I don't work on cars (yet).

lomomike:
Kashif, oya come defend ya self...

Omo, see me see wahala o

GAZZUZZ:
Pics or ....................






You know the rest.

Nna, na for Ifako you go hide!