₦airaland Forum

How to test a VTC solenoid on 7th Gen accord.
This might work in other cars but I did it on my 2005 Honda Accord 4cyl.

If you want to buy a VTC solenoid but want to be sure it's working before installing it. Unplug the connector from the VTC solenoid on your engine (please leave the existing solenoid in situ). Connect the solenoid you want to test and hold it in place with your hand. Have someone start the car and raise it intermittently to to around 3500rpm. As the engine is raised and dropped, you will see the solenoid open and close smoothly. The more you raise the engine, the more it opens. If it doesn't open and is not smooth, please replace it.

NOTE: Opening and closing when connected to 12v does NOT guarantee smooth operation. It doesn't guarantee it will work smoothly. In the repair manual, Honda made it look like the solenoid is an open or close switch, like on/off switch. In operation, it is NOT. It gradually opens and closes depending on demand. The extent to which it opens depends on what the ECU wants and the solenoid must be able to make these adjustments smoothly or else you get a code.

Note: Make sure there's a solenoid installed right on the engine before starting the engine. That is not the one being tested. It is just there to avoid oil splashing everywhere.
If you want to test the one in your engine before buying, you can only do it on another car because you need a solenoid to block that hole on the engine.

Please as questions if you have any.

theadeola:
It's a bit inverse for me.

Yes, my p0011 always returns, but the engine looks unopened and I don't have a lack of power above 2500 rpm. If anything, the car shoots forward like a bullet once I reach 3000-3500 rpm.

My idle is also butter smooth.

Do you have any ideas about what can be wrong?

This p0011 na witch. I still don't understand it.
But for diagnosis, the list below is the order to follow
1. Engine oil (low, old, or wrong thickness).
2. VTC strainer (blockage by dirt)
3. VTC solenoid (not working)
4. VTC actuator
5. Cam position sensor
6. Oil channels (if you open the VTC actuator and see fresh oil, then your channels are good.
7. Oil pump timing (if off, will cause vibrations as well)
8. ECU

If none of these fails to fix the code, just set the car on fire.

Bazztadewu:
Omo,I saw a toyota camry 2005 doing ball joint failure today.i shock oh.

De play.
Nigerians and routine maintenance are like oil and water. Them no de ever mix.

theadeola:
Are you by any chance in Ibadan?

Nah.
I'm in far-away Minna.
Do you need my kazeem skills?

digitalEbereDev:
My car stalls when going at low speeds mostly when in traffic.

This does not happen every time but sparingly and never happens when in normal or high speed.

What can be causing this?

More information needed for reasonable answer.

But if it is drive by cable, then start by cleaning your IAC valve.

GAZZUZZ:
No fast way around this, camshaft actuator is not actuating.

Possible Nigerian causes.

Welding of camshaft actuator to avoid cold rattle

Sludge in engine .

Deffective camshaft solenoid


Remotely I cannot solve this.
Good luck

So I did something stupid this afternoon.
The p0011 code I was having disappeared 2days ago and didn't return. But mumu me had my mind already made up that my VTC actuator has been kazeemised. So despite the code clearing on its own, my brain was just not at peace. So I went ahead to open up my valve cover and my actuator (yes, I opened up the actuator itself) and lo and behold, it has not been tampered with.
With the actuator open, I removed the locking spring and pins and turned the crankshaft while watching the actuator vanes and it was actually free from the sprocket, ie, it was working as supposed.
I was happy, angry and confused all at the same time.
Why did the code persist for so long?
Why did it suddenly clear when I'm about to go crazy on it?
I'm sure everything is regards my VTC is working fine, which means I've not found the problem. Or maybe there was never a problem. My brain is headaching me. grin
And as normal, one or two things were damaged in the process, all for nothing.
I hope that evil p0011 doesn't come back if not, I will just set the car on fire and have peace of mind. (Don't worry I no fit burn my only car grin)

So it's been 1 week now and still no catalyst or O2 sensor codes. I didn't buy new catalyst and no spacer installed.
This method is not for any kazeem cos it involves soldering resistor and capacitor. Even your rewire may not be able to do it tho it's still not hard. I'll post the YouTube video for those interested.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qHD7T7EhuzI?si=CGMOM1yZPw-5OhYE

adanny01:
They either weld or put something inside to permanently lock it.

If P0011 always returns, Yes it is locked. You experience lack of power especially above 2500rpm and rough Idle

So I did something stupid this afternoon.
The p0011 code I was having disappeared 2days ago and didn't return. But mumu me had my mind already made up that my VTC actuator has been kazeemised. So despite the code clearing on its own, my brain was just not at peace. So I went ahead to open up my valve cover and my actuator (yes, I opened up the actuator itself) and lo and behold, it has not been tampered with.
With the actuator open, I removed the locking spring and pins and turned the crankshaft while watching the actuator vanes and it was actually free from the sprocket, ie, it was working as supposed.
I was happy, angry and confused all at the same time.
Why did the code persist for so long?
Why did it suddenly clear when I'm about to go crazy on it?
I'm sure everything is regards my VTC is working fine, which means I've not found the problem. Or maybe there was never a problem. My brain is headaching me.
And as normal, one or two things were damaged in the process, all for nothing.
I hope that evil p0011 doesn't come back if not, I will just set the car on fire and have peace of mind. (Don't worry I no fit burn my only car )

pelvicky:
Good evening house.

Does 2005 Toyota Camry consume fuel?

If you have an experience, please kindly drop your answer

No. It consumes palm oil.

Supersaiyanlord:
Nice.
There is a space gazzuzz sells..that one has mini catalyst in it..then you install the 02sensor on it..then install in the catalyst pot..it clears the code fro. Testimonies here.

I bet it will still throw a sensor slow response code l. Since it's no longer in direct contact with flow of hot gases, it will take a bit longer to heat up and Honda will detect that delay. It's not about having a mini catalyst or not.
Have you seen someone that used a spacer on a Honda for a month or longer without a code?

Supersaiyanlord:
Oh..that's noted.. did not know..I guess the spacer you bought had catalyst in it..

No, it didn't. Just ordinary spacer.
But like I said earlier, in testing a more sophisticated way to eliminate p0420. I'll update here after one week of using it.

jceesquare:
Hope you know welding is an outdated practice?
They don upgrade to throwing bolts and nuts in there to lock it in place amongst other practices.

Wait, WHAT?!
Please tell me you are joking.

GAZZUZZ:
No fast way around this, camshaft actuator is not actuating.

Possible Nigerian causes.

Welding of camshaft actuator to avoid cold rattle
Sludge in engine .

Deffective camshaft solenoid


Remotely I cannot solve this.
Good luck

I'm learning another bad thing today about our kazeems
I don't have the struk ones. The welding is most likely my problem.

GAZZUZZ:
No fast way around this, camshaft actuator is not actuating.

Possible Nigerian causes.

Welding of camshaft actuator to avoid cold rattle
Sludge in engine .

Deffective camshaft solenoid


Remotely I cannot solve this.
Good luck

I'm learning another bad thing today about our kazeems

Bazztadewu:
Its not a tokunbo car

Vawulence de sweet you.

theadeola:
Very possible, I think. Does the car rattle on cold start?

The P0011 is making me suspect my VTC actuator has been welded internally though it looks untermpered externally.

GAZZUZZ:
I was close

Senior man! You were actually close despite not seeing the car.
The last problem I have with the engine is this pesky p0011 (camshaft position over advanced) that has refused to go. After clearing it, it appears after like the third drive. Car idles a bit rough and sometimes the engine takes a little longer to start.
I'm not the first owner of the car, so I'm suspecting the VTC actuator has been welded together internally, though the actuator looks untampered externally. Please what do you think?

AutoMoTech:
The whole timing system needs to be properly checked and inspected.
your problem might be in the electrical side (wiring & ECU), hydraulic (oil related) or mechanical (VTEC actuator, timing chain etc).

Can you also possibly shed more light on how the noise was fixed? asking because some road side techs usually weld the variable valve timing control permanently. that might take care of the noise but definitely the VVT system will not work any more. and ofcourse you will have alot of timing related error codes stored.

How do I know mine has been welded? What are the symptoms it will give?
Also do they do the welding inside the actuator or somewhere external? I couldn't see any sign of welding or previous opening on the actuator. So I'm confused.
I'm the second user, so I can't say what the first user has done probably to get rid of the rattle. But I don't like throwing parts at a car.
I currently have p0011 code, rough idle (vibration at idle), a bit long crank before start.
The p0011 keeps coming back after about 2 drives.

Supersaiyanlord:
This sensor spacer is nor for o2 sensors but for catalyst p0420 code. .money wasted it seems except you have catalyst code..

It was a catalyst code that led me to the spacer. My sensor had no problem.
Although, right now, I'm trying out a new method of eliminating that p0420 code without the need for spacer. So I've currently removed the spacer and I will update the forum after 1 week of no catalyst or sensor codes.

Macmilla:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8_ipQwBDKfY

So I'm still having issues with this sound.
A little background: So my k24 on my 2005 Honda Accord is making this devilish sound as seen on the video above. This sound started after replacing my timing chain, but something happened that day. The job was done by a kazeem (that's what is available where I am), but I monitored every step of the way. I examined the timing accessories and set the timing myself and he just did the loosening and tightening. So I can confidently say that nothing was out of place there.
When the job was basically done, I allowed him to install the accessories and then the belt, but that turned to be a big mistake. The dude installed the alternator with only one bolt. On driving off and testing, there was no sound even after warming up. But suddenly the belt snapped and of course, the alternator was the issue cos it was twisted.
After fixing the alternator bolts, I couldn't get the correct belt size. The one I got with number 6pk1780 was too tight, but out of desperation we forced it in. It was after this belt wahala that this sound started.
Even after installing the correct sized belt, that devilish sound has remained.
This sound is only present at idle and in gear and even louder when the fans kick in. So basically loaded engine at idle. And when this happens, there's significant vibration. My idle remains between 750 and 850rpm. The sound is completely absent when the engine is at idle without any load. It is also absent when you rev the car eve a little bit. It is absent while driving. Car has full power.
I initially thought it was coming from inside the engine. I replaced the timing chain tensioner and readjusted my valves. But while doing that, there was absolutely no sign of metal to metal contact in the timing chain or cams. I replaced the drive belt tensioner. I removed the water pump but couldn't find any sign of damage physically and functionally (the bearing appears smooth and not noisy at all), so I put it back.
I recently noticed that the sound was louder from the passenger tire well than from the top of the engine, making me suspect it's from a lower placed component.
Who has experienced this sound before? Any suggestions will be appreciated.

Cc: GAZZUZZ etc al.

PROBLEM FIXED!!!
The oil pan was opened and there lies the pieces of my oil pump chain tensioner. The oil pump chain was loose and hitting the remains of the tensioner. New oil pump tensioner installed and engine closed. Sound gone!
I'm so relieved.

Bullfallo:
replace with 02 sensor

Replace what with O2 sensor?
Did you understand my post at all?

Toylove:
Congrats chief
This thing showed you pepper o

Na better cameroon pepper 🫑

Macmilla:
So I took it to a new kazeem today and he did the same thing you stated but said everything that runs on that belt seems very ok. We even threw in a new belt tensioner and nothing changed.
He is now suspecting the VTC actuator. But so many people even here has said this sound doesn't sound like VTC sound. I don't want to go tearing down my camshaft in vain. I'm really stumped.

PROBLEM FIXED!!!
The oil pan was opened and there lies the pieces of my oil pump chain tensioner. The oil pump chain was loose and hitting the remains of the tensioner. New oil pump tensioner installed and engine closed. Sound gone.
All codes gone for now except oxygen sensor code.
I'm so relieved.

Who has tried o2 sensor spacers on their Honda Accord? What design exactly worked without popping other codes?
I tried the one shown below on 2005 accord 4cyl with a catalyst efficiency below threshold code. The catalyst code cleared but I keep getting p0139 code (02 sensor slow response).

jceesquare:
See you're moving in circles chasing what's not chasing you.
From your write-up, take out the belt then start the car. If noise is not there, spin individual accessories by hand and replace the fault bearing when you find the culprit.

So I took it to a new kazeem today and he did the same thing you stated but said everything that runs on that belt seems very ok. We even threw in a new belt tensioner and nothing changed.
He is now suspecting the VTC actuator. But so many people even here has said this sound doesn't sound like VTC sound. I don't want to go tearing down my camshaft in vain. I'm really stumped.

jceesquare:
See you're moving in circles chasing what's not chasing you.
From your write-up, take out the belt then start the car. If noise is not there, spin individual accessories by hand and replace the fault bearing when you find the culprit.

My chairman, this has been done at least twice. I even joined in trying to find the culprit but couldn't. On one occasion, the kazeem said it's the water pump. But when I brought the water pump, I couldn't find anything wrong with it. The bearing seemed very smooth. Other parts sellers insisted the water pump is not faulty. so I put it back.
But I'll take your advice and do it again. Maybe I'll get lucky this time. Or I will just close eye and throw in a new water pump.
Thanks for the advice.

Adejunwonlo94:
My Camry 2007 V4 consumed 65 liters of Fuel and ran 253 lineage between 24th Feb till today. Please is this economic enough for the engine or I need to take the car for inspection?

I use the AC fairly, the car tyres are fit and well, catalyst and O2 sensors are intact as well.

By my calculations, that is 14.7mpg. I don't think that is good enough, but let the bosses say.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8_ipQwBDKfY

So I'm still having issues with this sound.
A little background: So my k24 on my 2005 Honda Accord is making this devilish sound as seen on the video above. This sound started after replacing my timing chain, but something happened that day. The job was done by a kazeem (that's what is available where I am), but I monitored every step of the way. I examined the timing accessories and set the timing myself and he just did the loosening and tightening. So I can confidently say that nothing was out of place there.
When the job was basically done, I allowed him to install the accessories and then the belt, but that turned to be a big mistake. The dude installed the alternator with only one bolt. On driving off and testing, there was no sound even after warming up. But suddenly the belt snapped and of course, the alternator was the issue cos it was twisted.
After fixing the alternator bolts, I couldn't get the correct belt size. The one I got with number 6pk1780 was too tight, but out of desperation we forced it in. It was after this belt wahala that this sound started.
Even after installing the correct sized belt, that devilish sound has remained.
This sound is only present at idle and in gear and even louder when the fans kick in. So basically loaded engine at idle. And when this happens, there's significant vibration. My idle remains between 750 and 850rpm. The sound is completely absent when the engine is at idle without any load. It is also absent when you rev the car eve a little bit. It is absent while driving. Car has full power.
I initially thought it was coming from inside the engine. I replaced the timing chain tensioner and readjusted my valves. But while doing that, there was absolutely no sign of metal to metal contact in the timing chain or cams. I replaced the drive belt tensioner. I removed the water pump but couldn't find any sign of damage physically and functionally (the bearing appears smooth and not noisy at all), so I put it back.
I recently noticed that the sound was louder from the passenger tire well than from the top of the engine, making me suspect it's from a lower placed component.
Who has experienced this sound before? Any suggestions will be appreciated.

Cc: GAZZUZZ etc al.

Macmilla:
I finally made a video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8_ipQwBDKfY

So I'm still having issues with this sound.
A little background: So my k24 on my 2005 Honda Accord is making this devilish sound as seen on the video above. This sound started after replacing my timing chain, but something happened that day. The job was done by a kazeem (that's what is available where I am), but I monitored every step of the way. I examined the timing accessories and set the timing myself and he just did the loosening and tightening. So I can confidently say that nothing was out of place there.
When the job was basically done, I allowed him to install the accessories and then the belt, but that turned to be a big mistake. The dude installed the alternator with only one bolt. On driving off and testing, there was no sound even after warming up. But suddenly the belt snapped and of course, the alternator was the issue cos it was twisted.
After fixing the alternator bolts, I couldn't get the correct belt size. The one I got with number 6pk1780 was too tight, but out of desperation we forced it in. It was after this belt wahala that this sound started.
Even after installing the correct sized belt, that devilish sound has remained.
I initially thought it was coming from inside the engine. I replaced the timing chain tensioner and readjusted my valves. But while doing that, there was absolutely no sign of metal to metal contact in the timing chain or cams. I replaced the drive belt tensioner. I removed the water pump but couldn't find any sign of damage physically and functionally (the bearing appears smooth and not noisy at all), so I put it back.
I recently noticed that the sound was louder from the passenger tire well than from the top of the engine, making me suspect it's from a lower placed component.
Who has experienced this sound before? Any suggestions will be appreciated.

theadeola:
Since the chain was significantly stretched, I'm thinking some components around that area might have been affected. Also, your valves probably need looking at tbh, especially to see if none is bent, even slightly. Also check lifters and the camshaft bearings. Or the chain you put in is also worn. I know, seems like a lot again, but I think (not 100% sure tho) your engine is an interference engine, which is why I'm being cautious.


Basically anything that the chain works in tandem with. Sorry man, but like I said earlier, looks like engine has to be reopened.

So I opened my valve cover today to see what I could find cos that noise is still killing me. Nothing seems largely out of place. Timing chain is not loose and has no sign of hitting anything. A few valves were too tight and I adjusted them. But after everything, the devilish sound continued unchanged.
I noticed the sound is louder from the passenger tire well. Having replaced the timing chain tensioner, I am so confused right now.

Note: my pending p0011 code has not returned for 3days now.

Sirnioking:
Just continue changing oil when due, the code will become tired and disappear.

The code has been gone for like 3days now. I hope it stays away for good.