₦airaland Forum

Encitee3991:
I have a feeling Aliexpress is trying to integrate all small priced item to their CHOICE Package so as to save cost on shipping.

So basically, you can no longer buy tiny items unless you want to pay high shipping fee.
The only way to make sense of buying small items is to buy them as choice which means minimum of $10.
Nice one AliExpress. Nice one.

CyberHustle:
If the item has welcome deal tag, it means you can only. Buy one of the items carrying that tag. Items carrying that tag is usually very cheap, but once you select more than one of such items, they revert to their original prices. I don't know if yours carry the welcome deal tags but I have seen such before.

I have been on AliExpress for more than 10yrs now, so I know how everything works. I am not talking about welcome package cos nobody is welcoming me. I'm talking about items in my cart that were free to ship suddenly having $2-3 shipping fee. I'm talking about items that were tagged free shipping but once you open them, you see $2 shipping fee.

Is it just me, or has free shipping actually ended on AliExpress?
All the tiny items with free shipping I was gathering to order suddenly have minimum of $2-$3 dollars as shipping fee. What is happening?

theadeola:
Since the chain was significantly stretched, I'm thinking some components around that area might have been affected. Also, your valves probably need looking at tbh, especially to see if none is bent, even slightly. Also check lifters and the camshaft bearings. Or the chain you put in is also worn. I know, seems like a lot again, but I think (not 100% sure tho) your engine is an interference engine, which is why I'm being cautious.


Basically anything that the chain works in tandem with. Sorry man, but like I said earlier, looks like engine has to be reopened.

The sound was not there when the stretched chain was in use. It started after the new chain was installed. If the stretched chain caused a problem, I feel the problem should be obvious with the bad chain. Why start when the good chain was installed.
I don't have a problem opening the engine again. I just need to have a good idea of what I'm doing inside it.

jceesquare:
Sounds more like valve train noise.
Your valves probably needs adjustment.

I think valve train noise should be present all the time. My rattling specifically when the engine is idling under load (gear engaged, radiator fan on)
I also think valve train noise should start gradually and not suddenly.
This sound started immediately after replacing my timing chain which was significantly stretched. I'm thinking the timing upset something.

jceesquare:
Your RPM would drop down to normal operating range within 2 mins from cold start even if engine has not reached normal operating temperature. If the noise is more prevalent when engine is warmed up, then the noise is probably coming from areas that's constantly lubricated by your engine oil, and under load when fully warmed creats friction when oil flow is thinner.

theadeola:
we must ban all activities of village people o.

When getting the actuator, check if there's an updated part number for your car. That part of Honda engines annoy the hell out of me. Their actuators seem so fragile.

I finally made a video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8_ipQwBDKfY

jceesquare:
Your RPM would drop down to normal operating range within 2 mins from cold start even if engine has not reached normal operating temperature. If the noise is more prevalent when engine is warmed up, then the noise is probably coming from areas that's constantly lubricated by your engine oil, and under load when fully warmed creats friction when oil flow is thinner.

This is making a lot of sense, but you didn't mention any of those areas. The VTC actuator is actually one of those places.
My RPM at cold start is around 1500 and drops to around 1000 in about 1min and stays at around 1000 for much longer. I've never idled it to wait till it drops down further. The warmed up rpm is around 750.

theadeola:


Welcome to the club.

It looks like the engine would have to be reopened, to check the actuator. I don't suspect the chain, but stranger things have happened.

Yeah. At this point, I just want to deal with the actuator. If that doesn't resolve it, then the chain is going. If that still doesn't fix it, then I will know my village people want me to buy another engine.

jceesquare:
Where is the RPM when you observe this vibration and rattle?

Around 700-800. I don't think that's our of spec. My idle rpm is very normal even when gear is engaged or AC is turned on. It just starts vibrating and then the rattling. This rattling seems more audible after driving round and warming the engine up well. It's mostly absent during cold, but I guess that is because the rpm is still high at cold.

theadeola:
Very possible, I think. Does the car rattle on cold start?

I've not really observed any cold start rattle.
After all that I've done in trying to solve this rattling and p0011, I can only think of the actuator or the timing chain. It's just driving me nuts.

theadeola:
Er, not too sure what the problem can be, but I can suggest checks based on what you said.

1) I don't think the rattle is connected to the engine itself, since it is not present in normal idle or high rpms. Something might be loosely tightened around the adjuster area. It can also be your engine seats. Have a mechanic check them thoroughly to ensure none is damaged. I know the tranny side mounts can cause vibration in drive but not park, idle or reverse. Make sure to check the tranny mounts well for this.

2) That p0011 code is a pain in the ass, for lack of a better description. My Accord 2008 also has it, and I've done everything short of tearing the engine apart, still won't clear. Hopefully it clears, but I can't promise it will.
Check for sludge in your engine as a sort of a last resort.

The sound seems like it's from the upper side of the engine and not the lower side where the engine mounts are, though I can't be sure of this. But it is DEFINITELY from the timing side of the engine, not tranny side.
3 different technicians have gone through all accessories in that area and nothing seems off. No loose bolt or nut. A couple of the accessories replaced with no success.
It sounds like a loose iron flapping around, not like the sound of heavy iron against another heavy iron like an engine mount will make. I wish I could make a video and post here.
Also, I paid close attention to the engine mount by the alternator belt and I can say with a good level of certainty that it's not the source.
As for sludge, zero. Absolutely zero. I recently changed my timing, so I know what the guts of my engine look like.

I was just thinking, what if the two problems (rattling and p0011) are related?
Could a bad VTC actuator (intake camshaft head) be causing the vibration and rattling and then throwing the code p0011?
P0011 is an error with camshaft advancement, which is done by the actuator. Same actuator is also know to cause a loud rattling though on colds start.
Also, this problem started after timing chain replacement, which also involved the actuator (camshaft head).
I'm just trying to use common sense here.

theadeola:
How about the intake camshaft solenoid? It might be bad, or the tiny filters might be blocked.

Macmilla:
You mean the VTC solenoid? That has been cleaned and tested. It seemed ok to me. But I might just replace it and see.

Update on my 2003 accord k24:
So I replaced the VTC solenoid, cleaned the strainer, cleaned the vtec solenoid filter. Most dtc codes disappeared but car was sluggish af. Overtake on the highway was risky.
I remember I noticed my timing was off at a point and couldn't get it to align well, which means my timing chain was stretched. So I had it removed and compared it with a replacement. It was stretched by More than a tooth. Weird
So with a new chain installed, my timing marks were spot on.
On a test ride, car was powerful again
But I still have issues.
1. Check engine light keeps coming on with a "Pending code" p0011 no matter how many times I erase it. I was told it will erase on its own after some oil changes. I'm just hoping it does cos it's annoying. Car still moves well.
2. If I hold the brake and shift into reverse when idling, the engine has a marked vibration with a loud rattling from the belt side. Sounds like a piece of metal hitting metal. Like the timing chain is hitting something. This rattling started immediately after the timing chain replacement. I've replaced the timing chain tensioner and it didn't affect the sound. Belt adjuster, water pump and belt swapped and no change in the rattle. I'm confused at this point. This rattling is NOT present at normal idle and not present at high rpm. It is only present when reverse or drive is engaged while hold ing the brakes, or when I come to a stop holding the brake but still in gear. The engine vibration is high at this point.
I need help. Is there something like a bad chain when it's not physically deformed or stretched? Is there something I did or didn't do that is probably making the chain loose and wobbly to be hitting somewhere? Is the noise causing the vibration or the vibration is causing the noise? Make una help me please.

aieromon:
The pending code should clear after 2 oil change intervals. Ensure to use the recommended oil weight.

Ok. I'll change my oil this weekend hopefully. I also want to change my timing chain. I noticed my tensioner is extended out beyond spec, meaning the chain is stretched.

Sirnioking:
Thanks bros. I will order a new one with the part number you recommended.

So have you fixed this problem? I have exact same code after rebuilding my engine. But it is showing as PENDING CODE P0011. I don't really understand what "pending" means, but I've erased the code several times and it keeps coming back as pending code. All other codes that came up after the work has been rectified but this pending code P0011 has refused to stay away. I'm scratching my head cos I've replaced VVT solenoid (this cleared the p0341 code I had). I've cleaned the vtec solenoid screen (this fixed P2646). My VTC actuator doesn't look touched and doesn't rattle. It was working perfectly before the rebuild and I don't want to just keep throwing parts at it. Also Honda didn't mention the actuator under this code.
Also, why does it keep appearing as Pending code?

theadeola:
How about the intake camshaft solenoid? It might be bad, or the tiny filters might be blocked.

You mean the VTC solenoid? That has been cleaned and tested. It seemed ok to me. But I might just replace it and see.

Macmilla:
So I remember when I had a similar problem with my 2001 accord after major engine work. details can be seen here
https://www.nairaland.com/2646185/p1259-vtec-system-malfunction
GAZZUZZ and Adanny01 were so helpful.

It ended up being wrong timing setting of the oil pump. I'm strongly suspecting my current problem is same as that. I'll check the oil pump timing today and see what I'll find.

Ok. This did not work. I reset both my cam timing and my oil pump timing l, (both were not set correctly) but the check light reappeared next morning with exact same codes (p0011 and p0341). So I still need help. I'll start throwing parts at it.

Samyd18:
DOLLAR IS 1560naira

2000 before June, and 2500 before December.

Alaadin:
Please I have a question for the Aliexpress gurus in the house , ordered an Anker speaker from Aliexpress since Nov 27 and it has been stuck on a particular

"Departed for transit country" since the 2nd of December.

Reached out to the seller they said I should open a dispute.

Should I be worried?

Then open dispute. What are you worried about?

Macmilla:
So my 2005 accord 4cyl started misbehaving. It kinda lost power and cel came on.
P0011
P0341
I've replaced the VTC strainer and cleaned the VTC solenoid but problem persisted and codes keep coming back after one or two engine starts.
Please what is the next thing to do?

So I remember when I had a similar problem with my 2001 accord after major engine work. details can be seen here
https://www.nairaland.com/2646185/p1259-vtec-system-malfunction
GAZZUZZ and Adanny01 were so helpful.

It ended up being wrong timing setting of the oil pump. I'm strongly suspecting my current problem is same as that. I'll check the oil pump timing today and see what I'll find.

So my 2005 accord 4cyl started misbehaving. It kinda lost power and cel came on.
P0011
P0341
I've replaced the VTC strainer and cleaned the VTC solenoid but problem persisted and codes keep coming back after one or two engine starts.
Please what is the next thing to do?

cucumbar:
no I’ve not. Still confused on which to go for between ford explorer , Hyundai Santafe and Acura MDX.

Honda/Acura any day and any time for me.
Note that the mdx is not very fuel economical. I don't know about the others you mentioned.

kingreign:
The plastic bottle is made from recycled material, the print is different, also it has a DOT MATRIX print of some numbers on the bottle body.

Please, if it's not too much stress, can you show us pictures of this things you mentioned. Like "Real vs Fake" Honda ATF.

Cos me I'm not educated enough to know what "dot matrix print of numbers" is.

kingreign:
This is false sir.

Please, if there's a way to tell the original, let us know. Thanks in advance.

milanseedorf:
Please accept request to assess the file

I've made it open. You can access it now without a request.

Tucode:
Omo. So which is the safest bet that one can easily tell which is original?

Omo! I don't know o. They say we should just buy from know suppliers like Hondajosh here on nairaland. But our use of Honda cars can not depend on just one person on an online platform. It doesn't make sense at all. The oil full konga with price ranging from 4k to 15k for the 1litre, but you don't know what you are ordering. It's just frustrating.

SaintUlot:
Who noticed that buying stuffs locally in Nigeria is cheaper than buying on Aliexpress?

Very true. As long as you can find the item in the market, go for it in Nigeria.

ManyThanks:
Could this be the answer??

Story for the gods

zed7:
Honda oil is definitely a good oil. However, nobody can tell you if it's genuine, especially by looking at just pictures.

Same goes for Honda DW-1 ATF. You can't tell if what you are buying is original.

Hondajosh:
We don't bring in brand new and the few tokunbo available is readily sold out when available.

So unfortunate. I really love them.

Why is it so difficult to get bumper lips or bumpers with lip already attached? Like in the picture below

milanseedorf:
I no know and i want to know. Abeg show me way

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1QjmHX_Q5r1MhrN7uci5InGCazBeFHQAN/view?usp=drivesdk

If you are not on android, then I can't help you.

milanseedorf:
You need to subscribe for this. Am looking for something free. Any ideas anybody

I repeat, I've been using Torque for years. If you know, you know.