earthrealm: yeah, am a 48v man, planning for a huge upgrade next year, as i fully switch to lifepo4, got my sights on 5.5kw 48v SOROTEC, OR 3.2KW if my money no reach. all these inverters just dey copy themselves. kiekies phoccos and sorotec are very similar, except the hefty price difference, they have same form factor, down to the T, similar software as well, reminds me of powmr and makeskyblue CC, na so dem dey, only time will tell who copied who
They copied each other, but I'll still go for a Makeskyblue. I've seen it withstand abuse that will kill other charge controllers, eg someone once connected 3.2kw @24v to the SCC. SCC just stopped giving output. Only to start working when the panel was reduced to 2.5kw! It's a lil monster.
I agree most of these inverters from Growatt, MPP all have similar features, just chose your poison
ojeysky: That's right actually I didn't pay attention to that part, so can @mctfopt provide the charger section so we know whether it still retains its name tag
ojeysky: The bolded is why I said it's simply marketing gimmick, there is noting fast about the charging it's just yet another charge rate that they now labelled fast. My inverter does up to 80A charging so shall we call mine fastest charging
lainwords098: Kai.. Please like how much like this
This service is supposedly free, but you know how our civil service works. I have no idea of the cost, just go to your local PO and ask for this service.
funshyboi: Will the charger comes with it ? And may I know if anyone sells here
Hard to get a deal such as that, you can always buy a charger. By the way someone just mentioned a lifepo4 dealer a page ago. I've seen lifepo4 chargers advertised here too.
earthrealm: Still trying to get a hang of the lifepo4 battery. So which is preferable for an amateur, buying single cells & building a bank, or buying a ready made bank.
2ndly which is preferable, bank made up of say 48 units 3.2v x 100ah cells or 16 units 300ah cells.
Is Rs 485 port critical, if yes Does the RS 485 only need to know the current and voltage of battery pack ?or it need to connect with inverter?
Lastly, CATL and green power cells, which is preferable?. Basic research favours CATL, however i want firsthand reviews
With 300AH, I doubt you'll ever run into a problem of having too much charging current flowing in @ 1C or ½C charge rate. CATL, CALB, SINOPOLY are all good, just remember each of them have grade A and B. The bad news is there is no way to physically identify which grade you have unless after you've gotten it and used it for quite some time- this video below may help
ChybuzzDD: Why do Nigerians usually used the word "hard earned" when talking about money?? I've never seen any citizen of any other country use it. I found it very annoying, as it shows how much value we place on money.
hensil: my 3 years of working for this company I encounter people with doubts but later end up being too investors.i suggest if you don't want to invest with a company instead of talking down about the company it's good to keep mute because the way you treat other people's business that's the way others will do yours.so my advice to you is if you don't like financial freedom leave those interested.and please learn the difference between a Ponzi scheme and what we do it will go a long way..
Don't bother convincing me- you won't. You know this is a ponzi you are promoting; but as long as it is currently paying, you don't care. I've seen so many carefully crafted ponzi fail. Google NOSPETCO Oil and Gas. They had an office in Elephant Building Marina. I saw, first hand, what went down.
Rajioba1: So guys what should I do now that they declared the dispute invalid?
Wait for the second judgement which has a date in the future (I'm assuming you opened dispute immediately your purchase protection expired). Or is this the final judgement? If yes, then there is nothing you can do.
saint2ace: I have a prag 2.5kva inverter and 2 150ah Ritar batteries connected in series, but I've noticed a large gap in voltage on both batteries. When fully charged but with grid power on, one reads 14.22v while the other reads 13.45v.
When load is put on it there's almost a 3v difference as I've noticed one go below 10v while the other is still on 12.45v.
I have a 24v balancer hooked up to the system and both batteries are brand new, same batch and production dates.
What could be responsible, cos I've never since this before, but when separated each battery charges to 14.5v and maintains a relatively good voltage but when put together the wahala starts......
The one that goes below 10v is bad. I guess even in same batch some cell of a battery may fail before the other does.
Talking about how low the charge was, similar to NIPOST service charge...did you pay into the official account of the courier agency abi you paid to their agent without receipt