Nas00's Posts
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olumzzz:Lol. I no guru anything bro. Your vibration is likely due to warped brake discs (aka rotors). Action: Replace your brake discs and brake pads. Vibration should disappear. |
Carfreak966:Your boy remains loyal, Sir ![]() |
mejai:Great! Thanks... I am a Yanni fan. Got almost all his albums over time. Being a self-taught pianist himself, Yanni inspired me to learn how to play the piano on my own and I am making progress ![]() Before I derail the thread further, let me stop here and appeal for a close to this discussion on this thread. On behalf of mejai and myself, I also apologize to our ancestors on the thread for the slight derailment in honor of mejai, based on common interest. ![]() |
Carfreak966:Bro, repairing a leaking steering rack hardly ever stands the test of time. It will be more cost effective (cheaper on the long run) to replace the steering rack. Regards! |
modskiller:ATF-DW1 is recommended for your car. To get any significant result, you will need a minimum of 9 quarts. Luvinghubby sells OR you may ship directly from USA. A carton contains 12 (each one quart). Drain and refill the transmission three times. Test drive the car for about 10-15mins in-between and move through all gears after each test drive while engine running but foot on brake. By the end of the procedure, you should have replaced most of your transmission fluid with ATF-DW1. You will likely notice your transmission resuming normal service while you are at it ![]() Notes: 1) Each drainage should yield about 3 quarts. 2) Original ATF-DW1 is quite costly, but the cost of ruining your transmission will be much more. If properly done and there is no leakage, you don't need to replace your ATF for another 100,000 miles per Honda maintenance manual. However, you certainly need to check transmission fluid level at every oil change and top off if necessary. |
modskiller:Holts ke!!! You used incompatible transmission fluid, hence your transmission's malfunction, and that is just the beginning. To prevent a total transmission failure, you should stop driving the car for now, while you get the correct ATF to replace. What is your car's brand and model year? That will guide on the recommended ATF. Note: There must be a reason your transmission fluid level was low in the first place. Assuming the transmission is healthy, I would think you probably have leaks at some point along the transmission fluid lines. You should address the reason for the drop in ATF level if you find any. |
Carfreak966:Apologies Sir. Just noticed I didn't respond to this post. The following could be responsible for vibrations while accelerating/ speeding: 1) Torn engine mounts. Action: Visual inspection of all engine mounts. If no damage visible on visual inspection, follow up by inspection of engine behavior while someone switch btw gears, with the engine running, and the person's foot on the brake. Damage to the front or rear (or both) often produces visible marked engine 'leaps'. Damage to the side/ transmission mounts produce more subtle vibrations, but noticeable on close watch. 2) Misfires. This could be sure to several reasons. Some bad spark plugs, one or two bad ignition coils, clogged fuel filter, clogged engine air filter, even worn timing belt. You may have your 'check engine' light come on. Scanning your car can reveal codes for some of these problems. 3) Uneven tyre sizes: Ẹ.g. You have three 205/65 R16 types + one 225/75 R16 tyre. All your tires must be of equal size at all times. 4) Unevenly worn tyres You now have to rule out some of these possible causes, in order to isolate the main problem. Cheers! |
Johnsonkeyz2019:Sir, I advised you to inspect the sway bar links and replace IF bad. I see now that I took it for granted that you knew how to inspect sway bar links. The truth is that except you order OEM new parts for your car, the 'new' parts in our market often don't work as intended. In my experience, they tend to be worse than worn out OEM parts that came with the car. Buying 'tokunbo' replacement parts helps in many cases (but not all cases). If you have not discarded the previous sway bar links, better re-install them. Back to your question, a torn upper or lower control arm bushing can cause your car to veer towards one side. Lesson: Before you replace any car part, you must have proved beyond doubt that it has gone bad and needs replacement. |
Johnsonkeyz2019:Sir, why are you speeding on a rough road? You are breaking rule number 1 of Honda use in our environment... (Rule 1= Thou shall always drive patiently on rough roads; speed all you want on smooth roads). To your question, your symptom is likely due to bad sway bar links. Check them out. Will need replacement if bad. |
Carfreak966:Most likely torn engine mounts. Inspect all engine mounts to find out which is torn. That said, not 100% of the 03/04 V6 will develop transmission issues. But they remain the most reported for transmission failure from online North American records I have seen. |
sirleke:Well, it is the V6 models of 2003/04 Accord that tend to have transmission problems. Certainly not the 4-banger. Provided your friend buys a healthy 2003/04 Accord and pays attention to routine maintenance, the car should run forever. Best wishes! |
Musty4ahmed1:Running on empty will destroy your power steering pump. Your steering will remain 'hard' too. Use Honda Genuine power steering fluid (see attached image). Check the power steering fluid lines for leakage and address before refill. Cheers.
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afobam:No cause for alarm then. Can't run your battery down. |
afobam:Does the radio come on after you have switched off the ignition? You might have to observe for that first and let's know. If it's the clock alone remaining on, it cannot drain your battery. The radio will. |
luvinhubby:1000% true. Must drain and refill with Honda Genuine CVT fluid before driving around. |
easysunny:Ha! If you carefully read me, I have already recommended an alternative you can switch to up there^^^^... After which Tzar helped post the picture of the oil I recommended for you. I think that concern of yours has been taken care of, Sir. Lemme see if I can quote myself: nas00: |
[quote author=Tzar post=91425645][/quote]Exactly!!! This is the oil I referred to and recommended. Thanks for helping out Sir cool Regards! |
Carbuyer83:1) The best solution is to replace the seals with OEM. I said OEM because some can be a real pain to replace (e.g. The rear main seal, which is essentially between the transmission and the crankshaft and difficult to reach). You don't want to undergo all that stress only for your replacement seal to be leaking too. 2) Some engine oils marketed as 'high mileage oil' contain additives that swell up the cracked seals, helping them to minimize oil leakage. This can only be a short term fix, if it works at all (but that is the claim of the marketers) 3) Some outright oil additives are also sold in the market as 'stop leaks'. I have never used it, but I have a friend who bought a number of bottles when he had oil leakage. Contrary to marketing claims, it did not improve the situation. These are the practical options Sir. |
easysunny:One last thing Sir: Contrary to what one may ordinarily think, not using your car often adversely affects your car health. May even predispose to oil leaks due to cracked oil seals. Try use your car often ooo ![]() |
easysunny:Thanks for the answers. If cost were not an issue, I think your engine is a good candidate for Mobil 1 (semi-synthetic). Since cost is an issue, I would suggest you switch to a newer and cheaper Mobil oil that was recently introduced into our market. I think it is semi-synthetic and has better suited viscosity than Mobil XHP or Total Quartz, which are both 20W-50. (Will try find a picture of it and post during the week). Cheers! |
easysunny:Factors to consider: 1) With the Mobil 1 you presently use, does your engine oil level fall short of the full mark in-between oil changes? ... Meaning you usually have to top up the oil in-between. 2) Any leakage of engine oil from the engine (Is your engine block dry or usually soiled due to seepage of engine oil)? 3) What is the routine interval between your engine oil changes? 4) What is the average distance you cover before changing your engine oil (drain and refill). 5) What is the mileage of your car presently? If you provide answers to these questions, we can reach a logical decision. Cheers! |
Tolutopsy:Okay, I gerrit. The most likely cause of your a/c symptom is low refrigerant. You may simply refill your refrigerant and observe. You should regain cooling and if you don't lose cooling over several months, it is unlikely there were other issues. If you lose cooling within a few days, then there is a leak that must be found and sealed. |
Tolutopsy:You can check by connecting a manifold gauge set to the a/c circuit 'H' and 'L' ports accordingly. Low side pressure of less than 40psi and high side pressure less than 100psi when a/c running is suggestive of low refrigerant. But from what you have already observed, it is highly likely the problem is low refrigerant, which you can easily fix by: 1) Checking for leaks and sealing them 2) Drain entire system and pull vacuum 3) Refill with r134a |
Preator:Sir, If you think water got into any of your fuse boxes recently, you may want to let them dry out first and observe if things go back to normal. If not, you may go ahead and replace. |
kingreign:You sef see am ![]() #iWeak Maybe the post should be removed. It can mislead people into incurring costly damages and/or endanger life! |
Rahym001:Refers to the different materials the spark plug electrodes are made of. Iridium is the best and most expensive. It has the slowest wear rate and lasts for as long as 100,000 miles, provided you bought the original NGK. On inspection, it has a very narrow-tipped electrode (almost like the tip of a pen). Note: There are also different specs of NGK iridium spark plugs. For instance, for the k24 and K20 engines, the OEM is izfr6k-11 laser iridium NGK spark plug. There is the izfr6k-11s and others. Check your owners manual to be sure you are using the right spark plug. |
Carfreak966:Dear Sir, Sadly, this is a Honda thread. You are likely to find the much needed help on a Hyundai thread, if there is. You may search under 'car talk' Section of NL. Cheers! |
Tharaja:Greetings Sir. Looking like a faulty transmission range sensor (aka 'PRNDL switch'). Replace the sensor and things should be back to normal. |
sureboykris:Not unexpected if you're having difficulty. The problem is that we are more used to aftermarket brands in this part of the world, likely for economic reasons. I personally think it will cost more overall to use our aftermarket brands (which don't work as Honda intended) and risk premature pump failure, rather than consistently using the more expensive recommend fluid and enjoy reliability/longevity. That said, Luvinhubby usually sells Honda Genuine PSF. You can also buy directly from the US via Amazon etc. Problem might be shipping, with the current COVID-19 issues. |
sureboykris:Sir, you are also using the wrong fluid. ATF-DW1 should be used in your automatic transmission (gearbox) only. Honda made it for that purpose only. The recommended power steering fluid is Honda Genuine PSF (see picture attached). If you can't get it, maybe an alternative like Mobil ATF. Now, the confusion arises when you buy Mobil ATF for instance and you find it is recommended for both automatic transmission and power steering. If you like yourself, never use it in your transmission of. You can use as a substitute power steering fluid till you are able to get Honda Genuine PSF. Regards!
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ayobamizz:Funny story... And you're correct about our technicians. You might need to look for an official Toyota service center and find out if you can get your a/c system vacuumed there. Hope you get lucky. I can pull vacuum for those in Ib. |
victoreyefia:You're welcome ![]() |



