hybeekhan:
Does anyone have an idea about the price and replacement of half block engine for accord 2004. 4 plug. Will it work fine?

Full engine always better, as one cannot guarantee that your mecho will be meticulous enough to align and torque things to factory specifications. Usually, a service manual is needed to guide on this but we both know 9ja mechos nah. Beware!

KelvinCoaster:
Luvinhubby,Collione and other contributors:

I just saw a green flash signal on my dash board this morning (CRUISE MAIN).

What does it entail?
What is the meaning?

It means your cruise control is on. That could have been as a result of accidentally pressing the cruise control button on your steering while driving OR a random electric 'misfire' triggering it (regardless of whether your cruise control still works or not).

apatayeraye:
Hello house, pls I have a Honda bulldog 1999, the Ac is not cold like it was since i welded the condenser leak. There is no gas leak, the compressor is good but I noticed that dried leaves and dried foam do come out from the ventilation. Thanks.

Dry leaves and other debris coming out through your vents suggest your cabin air filter is not only dirty but it is likely broken down into cruds.
The clogged cabin air filter can be purely responsible for the non-cooling you feel.

Solution:
1) Check behind your glove compartment to remove your cabin air filter AND replace with a new one.

2) Change your air flow mode into 'recirculation' permanently. It reduces the rate of sucking in dirt along with air when using the fresh air mode.
The way around the permanent recirculation is to begin by rolling down all windows when starting the car after parking for a while. That allows fresh air to come in to replace stuffy air through your windows before you roll up.

Good luck.

Ernesttoby30:


Thanks boss. A mechanic told me he can do it, but I've just been scared so as not to temper with my gear box. Since the hand brake is closer to gear compartment, i was thinking he would have to temper with my gear box

Lmao

Easy bro. Your brake cable is not even close to the location of your 'gearbox' at all. You probably think so because the gear stick is nearby, but no

Meanwhile, apart from hand brake cable adjustment, the adjustment can also be done by tuning an adjuster close to the brake drum (provided the brake shoes- aka brake lining- still okay). Your mecho will understand.

fizzle344:
Have driven the car for about 4days and its still like that. Am even going back to change the throttle body and see if there will be a change.

quote author=nas00 post=107790998]
Okay.
For how many days has this RPM pattern been on?

How much have you been driving the car daily since you replaced throttle body?

Okay.

I think it is an IACV problem. You might want to check it out if swapping the throttle body makes no difference.
While you are at it, trace all your vacuum lines for leaks and fix if you find any leak.

Did you scan at all? Might give useful clues

Good luck.

fizzle344:
The RPM gets to 2500 when i start the car.
It goes above 1000rpm when in Drive. If i put on the ac,it goes up to 1500rpm

Okay.
For how many days has this RPM pattern been on?

How much have you been driving the car daily since you replaced throttle body?

fizzle344:
Hello gurus. My 2009 honda accord was having throttle body issue. I replaced it but the power is still high and it makes the car overheat.

Kindly advice on what to do pls.


@Dru
@luvnhubby
@Gazzuz
@kokomo

Note that the problem might not be your throttle body per se. You might just have a dirty idle air control valve, which may leave you stuck with high RPMs. Removing the IACV --> disassembly --> careful cleaning --> re-assembly --> reinstalling is the way forward.

The relearn process will occur after a couple of days and you should be okay, if it is dirty IACV.

*The IACV is located beneath the throttle body. You might have to remove throttle body to access it.

fizzle344:
Hello gurus. My 2009 honda accord was having throttle body issue. I replaced it but the power is still high and it makes the car overheat.

Kindly advice on what to do pls.


@Dru
@luvnhubby
@Gazzuz
@kokomo

Hi!

I am guessing what you meant by 'power still high' is that the RPM stays high on idle. I think that can happen normally when you replace a throttle body UNTIL a natural 'relearn' process is completed, when the RPM returns to normal on its own.
Is it a drive-by-wire or wireless throttle body?

As for the overheating, look for a different cause. I am not sure high RPM from throttle body replacement should cause that. How high does your RPM go at idle presently??

Cheers!

darelar:


Do you have the luvinghubby part dealer contact or Any other dealers contact from oyingbo or ladipo. I want to change my bumper and some parts.

0802 925 5299

Betterlifesars:


Thanks for your feedback. The vehicle behaves as if it's on neutral regardless of the gear sir.

I reside around alapere estate, Lagos

Hmm.... That is not a good sign. If your transmission fluid level is not very low or very dirty, my bet is on a transmission failure (very likely the case here).

I am not in Lagos. Being in Lagos, you can easily get the solenoid from Luvinghubby at Oyingbo, but have it at the back of your mind that if the solenoid doesn't make a difference, you have to replace the entire transmission.

In fact, instead of buying the shift solenoid, have your mecho carefully remove yours, flush it thoroughly and reinstall. Confirm that all electrical connectors to the transmission are properly fitted and see if transmission behaves. If it doesn't, replace entire gearbox (ask Luvinghubby).

Good luck.

Betterlifesars:
I have a problem with my honda accord 2003 transmission. When engaged in drive, the D light blinks on the dashboard. Immediately the oil was changed from the brownish one in it to a dw1 oil with red cap. The problem still persists with vehicle not even moving forward nor backward. Vehicle was then scanned and returned P0756 as result (Shift Solenoid B performance stuck off). The issue at hand now is I need a reliable seller of the Solenoid and possibly the person that can fix it trusted by the seller. If you have any contribution towards my issue please share

Where are you located?

I have the shift solenoid.

Does the car move when you shift to reverse?

Or it just behaves as if in neutral, regardless of the gear you shift to??

osato45:
Please where can I get a good ac mechanic in benin city that does vacuum on the ac lines, I am feed up with my ac always running short of gas every three months after a refill of 134a refrigerant.

The car is an 06 v6 2006 accord

You most likely have a slow leak.

Trace the refrigerant circuit for any moist areas (oily), which may be the leakage site. Pay attention to the compressor seals too.

If you can't find any externally, leakage may be in the evaporator (at some point, you should have smelt refrigerant in the car cabin, if this were the case, anyway).

Lastly, in my experience, I think inferior grade refrigerants dry up over time, in the absence of a leak. I have seen a couple of such cases.

Good luck

femarse:

Boss pls I have the situation where the car rev instead of switching to gear 2 , this only happens when trying to speed up , they said it's pin down issue, I don't know how to correct that , but normal drive without trying to speed up ...it switch but delay for some seconds
Baby boy, 4 plug, auto

Sounds like slipping. Low or dirty transmission fluid can cause it. Check and do the needful, using ATF-DW1.

Cheers!

ClearAll:
I’m in Lagos sir
(drags) I mean, it takes few seconds to select when on motion

It jerks when changing gears, especially when changing to reverse

The ATF I use ?? I’ve forgotten the name right now (white keg with a blue cover)

I scanned it once, it gave me a code where I need to check the ECU and oxygen sensor 2 or something like that (forgotten the codes)

Okay.

- Dirty shift solenoids could be responsible. Remove, clean and reinstall (take care not to damage. Quite fragile). Check if it resolves the issue.
If it doesn't, start saving for a new transmission (in case this fails). Honda transmissions are so delicate that they hardly function 100% normally after internal 'repairs'.

- The jerking when you shift to reverse could mean either torn/ bad engine mounts (commoner) OR imminent transmission failure. Rule out engine mounts first.

- That ATF you used might cause catastrophic damage to your transmission down the line. Description sounds like Abro or the likes. Honda genuine ATF is the way!! I advise you drain and refill at least 3 times to get as much of the Abro as possible out of the transmission. Use ATF DW1.

ClearAll:
I just changed it two months ago and it’s still wine in color it doesn’t shift smoothly when on “D” sometimes it drags and sometimes it does smoothly, what could be the problem to this?

Hmm... 'Drags' needs to be more clearly explained.

- Does it mean the car slips into neutral before finally switching to the next gear? (In that case, you hear a revving sound from the engine in-btw and car stalls )

- Does the car struggle to move or jerk when changing gears?

What ATF did you use?

Have you scanned the car?

ClearAll:
Good afternoon house, please I need to it assistance here with My Honda Accord 05.

If I start the engine and put the gear in drive it doesn’t work/select all the time, unless it’s place on reverse then back to drive before it’ll select, last night the drive shift didn’t work at all, then this afternoon it started working when I tried it again

What could be the cause or i should start thinking of gear replacement?

This may not be a transmission issue. Does the car shift gears smoothly when it is in 'D'? If it does, you may have a malfunctioning transmission range sensor. That should give you a trouble code and illuminate check engine light. You may scan the car to begin with. Cheers!

ping2ping:
Hello everyone. I need an urgent help.

I have a 2003 Honda Civic auto. Recently, when you to turn the key to on position, the green key light will be flashing on the dashboard and it will NOT start even though the engine cranks. You will have to try starting the car like 5 or 6 times before the light will go off and the car will start. The next time it might start at once. So each time you want to start it, you will have to key turning the key to on position and off until you turn it on and the key light goes off the you can start the car. It could be 4, 5, 6 or more times.

The rewire has changed the key switch but the problem is persisting. He is saying its the transponder. He got it changed according to him, he said he got a key that matched with the new transponder but the problem is persisting. He is now talking about changing the fuse box.

Please I need urgent help before this guy complicates the problem for me. What exactly could be the problem? Once the car starts, it drives fine.

Thanks for all the help

Does it happen when engine is hot or cold or both? Do respond ASAP.

Hope you haven't changed the fuse box. Waste of money and might mark the genesis of new problems. I can bet my balls that changing the fuse box won't solve the problem.

kingreign:


Your boss owning one and complaining shows there's something wrong somewhere. It's either his maintenance habits or his mechanic shortchanging him. I'm genuinely glad that you made a decision and you didn't regret your decision. I am also glad that you didn't take my advice so that when things went sour, you won't come for my head. Good night.

Hello Sir.

Sorry to 'crash' your party, but I am alarmed by your all or none stance.

Be it Toyota or Honda, I believe the key issues that determine how any car ages are:

1) The general health/ condition of the car when bought.
2) The driving and maintenance habits of the user.

I say this from experience. Not just from a gut feeling or by watching people I don't really know from a distance.

I have used my 2003 Accord as a daily driver for ten years (In the tenth year now). Driven it to every state in South-West, most of the Eastern States and South-south. Driven in stop and go city traffic and all manner of roads.

Believe you me, I have never had my ball joints 'pull' on me. I replaced them (using OEM) for the first time about 2 years ago when I started hearing knocking sounds from one of them. Never again till date.

Only a couple of months ago did my original transmission fail, after over 171,000 on the odometer. I immediately got a replacement shipped from Luvinghubby and fixed within a week. Going again like new till date.

My leather upholstery and ivory dashboard still look pristine. Anytime I go to the car wash, the nearby tokubo car seller would approach me to ask me to let him know whenever I want to sell the car. I asked him why once, he told me it is so neatly used that he would resell it as a tokunbo.

Now, when I wanted to buy this Accord, a friend who wanted to buy a car at the same time vehemently tried to dissuade me, just as you are doing now. He said the leg would 'pull' and told me how Toyota was more durable and all.
He bought his Toyota Corolla, I bought my EOD. He was the one who incidentally kept having issues with his corolla (although after using it trouble free for at least 5 years. Meanwhile, I used my Accord trouble free for 8 years before changing ball joint. All I did was routine maintenance). He eventually sold his corolla and bought a Camry (Muscle). That Muscle is less than three years now but my Accord looks cleaner, healthier and performs comparably even today. In fact, my air conditioner works far more efficiently than his camry, regardless of the age of my car.
I have a few other friends who have used and sold Toyotas (corollas and camrys) are in their second or third cars now. They all say my Accord doesn't seem to be aging at all and have learnt to respect Honda with time. One of them even bought a Honda for his parents (He brought the car to me for inspection before paying). In fact, I am like their 'mechanic' who helps them diagnose their car problems and fix.

In summary, I do not subscribe to the blanket relegation of Honda as worse than Toyota. Several other factors are involved.

As it's been said already, one major downside for Toyotas is that their parts are more expensive than Hondas.

In terms of performance, how can you compare the 128hp common corolla to the 161hp 4cyl 2003 - 2007 Accord? ... Only the Muscle camry compares in horsepower and stability at very high speeds (170km/h and above). Not even the 2003-2006 camrys.

Let each man buy what they like. The main thing is to buy a healthy car and keep up with maintenance, using recommended parts.

I come in peace

Cheers!

Heartbreaker505:


My car suddenly started to start on second turn in the morning, though not every morning. Then I noticed sometimes as I'm going out in the morning, it feels sluggish as I accelerate and if I don't march the throttle it acts like it wants to off. But after first 2 mins of driving it starts moving normal.

I scanned and got p0171 and p0174. I also have p0420 and p0430, my catalysts are present so I'm lost if its o2 sensor

Car is Lexus es300 serviced with hardex sae 5w_30

Hello Sir.

I am wondering why you brought a Lexus problem to a Honda thread

Anyway, in the spirit of 'one love', below are the possible causes of the trouble codes:

-Intake air leaks
-Faulty front heated oxygen sensor
-Ignition misfiring
-Faulty fuel injectors
-Exhaust gas leaks
-Incorrect fuel pressure
-Lack of fuel
-Faulty Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor
-Incorrect Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) hose connection

Your car has a v6 engine, so you check to rule out or confirm the above on both banks as applicable.

Please, don't come back with subsequent queries on your Lexus in order not to derail this HONDA thread. I guess there might be a Lexus or Toyota thread elsewhere on Nairaland.

Good luck and cheers!

Ayomide25:
Which is more economical and well efficient for Uber/bolt between Accord 05 and Civic 05 ......Gurus of Honda pls I need ur point of view

Civic nah.

Assuming both cars are healthy o. The Civic has better fuel economy.

luvinhubby:


The appearance of the batch codes varies depending on plant.
The texture of the container is also another way to know

This makes me feel better. Thank you Sir �‍♂️

frebor:


This is what the batch codes looks like. For me it's not enough to be sure it's original or not cos that one sef na simple thing for the counterfeiters.

I totally agree with you. For instance, I have never seen 'code numbers' with font as big and bold as the one you posted here.

Attached is a pic of one from a carton of 12 I shipped from the USA. It is half faded, but you can appreciate the difference. Still not sure if na original sef.

temi4fash:


Wooow....

I didnt know all of this.

Hope it is not too late to change from water to Coolant.

It's your call, since you are the one who understands your car. If you think the engine is still reasonably healthy, it is worth changing.

FineUsername:


Thanks bro. Will this 3.78l be enough?

Welcome Sir.

Should be enough if your radiator is 'single cell'.

However, if it is 'double cell', it won't be enough.

temi4fash:


Boss,

Even in Nigeria, Thought it was only applicable to countries outside Nigeria.

I have using water in my car(Honda City 2007) for a long time.

No Sir.

There are two main advantages of using 'coolant':

1) For hot climates like ours, the advantage is that 'coolant' has the ability to hold MUCH MORE heat than water. Therefore, it 'removes' heat much better from the engine. This heat is transferred to the radiator, where it is dissipated into the surrounding. That means, your engine suffers less heat-related stress (or enjoys more) when working and engine is therefore likely to last longer before it loses performance from wear and tear.

2) For cold climates (e.g. Canada, Russia, Scandinavia etc): 'Coolant' contains an anti-freeze additive (typically polyethylene glycol), which prevents the fluid in the radiator and engine block from freezing, even in sub-zero temperatures. That way, you can still start up your car in very cold weather and it runs and engine cools normally. Water, on the other hand, will freeze and expand at sub-zero temperatures, which can crack the engine block OR at least, make it impossible to drive the car without catastrophic damage. We only get away with using water in out environment because we have tropical climate.

FineUsername:


Thank for this info. I on my part have been using water to top up. Thought there’s still a greenish coolant in the reservoir that came with the car.

What do you advise I do? I want to start using coolant as recommended.

Okay. Let me use a step-ladder approach:

1) Drain the radiator completely by removing the cap first, then the butterfly drain plug at the rear bottom of the radiator.

2) Remove the lower radiator hose where it connects to the thermostat housing. Start the car and allow run for a while. You should observe the water trapped in the engine block run out when the thermostat opens. Then shut off the engine.

3) Couple lower radiator hose. Replace and tighten butterfly drain plug.

4) Empty any water in reservoir tank.

4) Fill your radiator with bottle after bottle of coolant till 'full' (this is not truly full yet as pockets of air will be trapped below the coolant level in the radiator).

5) Fill your reservoir tank with coolant up to the 'max' line.

6) Cover radiator tightly BUT cover reservoir loosely or leave open.

7) Start the engine and put on your heater (on maximum). Keep an eye on the temperature gauge as the car runs. The temperature will likely rise above normal level. Once it crosses its usual 'normal' level, switch engine off and wait a bit for engine to cool.
You will most likely find a lot of bubbling in your reservoir tank at this time, as the trapped air in the radiator makes its way out through the reservoir.

Open radiator cap when engine cool enough and refill with coolant till 'full'.

9) Repeat (6), (7) and ( above until the temperature gauge DOES NOT rise above its 'normal' level anymore. Then, it is safe to drive the car.

10) Check coolant level in radiator the next morning and top off as necessary. It is not unusual to find that the coolant in the reservoir has been sucked into the radiator by the next morning.

When the circuit is full, the coolant level should be stable over days.

After this, the recommended interval for another coolant flush is three years.

Cheers!

dejiconde:
Thanks for the response, water is wat I know they put in radiator. So wat should be the solution sir.

Water should never be the fluid to use in your radiator. The cooling won't be efficient as water boils.
Your engine suffers for it and its lifespan shortened.

What is recommended is 'coolant'. For instance, Honda recommends their own 'Type 2' coolant which a mixture of water and other additives that increase the boiling point of the fluid and keeps it from freezing in very low temperatures.

Generally, there are two types of coolants.
1) The pre-mixed: These already are a mixture of water and the 'coolant' additives. The common coolants sold in our environment are of this type (e.g. Total, Oando, Lb). They should be used ALONE to fill the entire radiator WITHOUT adding water, as they are already pre-mixed.

2) Undiluted coolants: Not common in our environment. These usually come with directions on how to mix with distilled water before filling the radiator.

Hope it's clearer now.

wizzle772:
Good evening everyone, please am having issues with my Honda Civic 2007, anytime I engage the gear to reverse mostly it delays like 10 seconds to engage, and ones it engages it jerks, have gone to scan it and it's bring out just P0747 only and I have tried many solenoid and still the same thing, have even change the 2 solenoid and still the same issue and also the the drive light blinks sometimes. Please someone should help me. Mechanic have change my gear oil like 4 months ago, I don't really know the gear oil he used, and the car has been working well since 4 month ago not until last month I started having this issue.

Have you ruled out a slow transmission fluid leak?

Commonly from poorly torqued drain plug or solenoid bolts.

Lastly, transmission may be on its way out.

dejiconde:
Also, I noticed shortage of water in my radiator and water is foamy. No sign of overheating and it doesn’t smoke.

What is water doing in your radiator in the first place?

Car abuse!!

The water probably has contaminants, causing it to foam.

YeyeBoyfriend:
Hello gurus in the house, yesterday, I drove my car to a location, parked and after about 15mins, I came back, started the car but refused to start, borrowed battery to start it (it worked) but went off while on a stop and move traffic

Tried to borrow battery to start it again, this time it refused to start but all lights was on, someone said the kick starter isn’t moving, he helped hitting the kick start with a long iron, after this was done (hitting the kick starter) the car starts again,

This morning I tried starting it, still didn’t work,
Pls is the problem the kick starter or something else, kindly help me out bosses, thanks

luvinhubby and all pls I need your input

What car model?

As it's been said, the problem is your kick starter.

To fix it, you have two options:

1) A good electrician can remove the starter and inspect. Most of the time, it is the 'brushes' in it that are worn and they can be replaced. This is cheaper than buying another starter. If it is the coil that's damaged, it may be difficult to repair.

2) Buy a replacement kick starter.

Good luck.

NuvioProcure:

so i took it to the mechanic so it was found that my brakepad left it position now it has placed well and the noise is gone.Thank you all

What a relief!

Thanks for the update �

Felakezman:

I have this codes

22-03 rocker arm oil pressure switch (a) circuit low voltage

70-20 A/T system malfunction

70-03 shift solenoid valve b stuck off

Pls help me as my gear takes about 6seconds to enter Drive forcefully in the morning

If the gear continues to malfunction with a correct fluid level, you may scan. Generally, faulty transmission pressure sensors or shift solenoids would throw

Rocker arm oil pressure switch (a) circuit low voltage: Check wiring of your vtec solenoid. If intact, you might need to replace the solenoid to fix that.

A/T system malfunction: Likely due to input speed shaft sensor malfunction.

Shift solenoid valve b stuck off: Check the link below for possible causes/ what to do.

https://www.autocodes.com/amp/codes/p0756_honda.html