Nas00's Posts
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sureboykris:No qualms Sir ![]() Scanning is not rocket science. There are basic scanners available on the market, so it's something you could do yourself if you had one. You can work towards buying one. That said, I don't know your location but ask around. You might be able to get somewhere around you to scan. Cheers! |
sureboykris:DTC = Diagnostic Trouble Code(s) These are essentially the codes a scanner would show you when you scan the car. Each code has its possible causes. It is based on the DTCs you find on scanning that you know what needs to be fixed. Contact Luvinhubby for the sensor, but only if scanning shows you that the sensor is faulty. Thanks. |
victoreyefia:Strange if the check engine light came on for that reason. There might be a coincidence, so I would suggest you scan the car to know the real reason. You may drain the radiator by opening the plastic 'butterfly' screw at the rear bottom end. Ensure the radiator cap is open for faster and complete drainage. Replace butterfly and fill radiator and reservoir with coolant only. Cover radiator properly but keep reservoir partially open. Next, take on a short drive till temperature gauge reaches half mark, return to park. - Allow enough time for engine to cool very well, then open radiator again. You will likely find the cells appearing dry, because pockets of air initially trapped below the coolant would have been expelled, so that the coolant level drops significantly. - Refill radiator and reservoir with coolant only. Repeat the procedure described above. You may need to repeat once or twice before engine temperature stabilizes and coolant levels stop dropping in-between test drives. |
sureboykris:Hello Sir. Symptoms are in keeping with a faulty transmission range sensor. You should have a DTC pointing in that direction. Scan the car to be sure. Once confirmed, replacing the sensor should solve the problem. |
kokaneprodigy:Okay. I've replied. No workshop. I run my show myself ![]() |
kokaneprodigy:Okay. DM Sir. |
kokaneprodigy:Hello. Have you been able to scan? |
shina101:Hello Sir. There is nothing wrong with your compressor (Hope you haven't changed it). The problem is the refrigerant in your a/c system. It is low in purity. Your a/c will cool efficiently in the heat of the sun when you drain, vacuum and recharge the system with pure r134a. Hope you find this helpful. |
plugchef:Hello Sir. There is likely blockade in one (or more) of the master brake cylinder passages. It is a huge risk to move the car around without sorting it out. Have the master cylinder removed and examined to confirm this and replace if confirmed. While you are at it, a malfunctioning servo must also be ruled out, as this can be a co-existent problem. May be leaking, therefore losing vacuum. In that case, the servo must be replaced. Cheers! |
opalu:Hello Sir. Is it a good idea to start work (foundation laying) on a building site at the peak of the rainy season? I thought it is a better idea to wait for the dry season. Based on your wealth of experience as a professional structural engineer, kindly educate me on the pros and cons Sir Specifically asking because I disagreed with a friend who on this subject. Thank you. |
luvinhubby:Thank you. Any chance it could be shipped out of Lagos amidst the on-going lockdown? Cheers! |
Hello everyone! Hope we're all staying safe in this COVID-19 season. Any information on where I could get a new VTEC solenoid gasket for an '03 Accord, please? The part number is 15815-RAA-A02 (Kindly find picture of specific type attached). Thanks. Cc: Luvinghubby, Gazzuz
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luvinhubby:Hello Sir. I have updated the person who needs it. He will contact you soon as he is ready. Thanks. |
Dear all, Where can I get this particular toks hubcap (all four) and how much? Thanks.
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luvinhubby:Thanks Luvinghubby. Will contact you. |
Hello everyone. Please where can I get Honda genuine CVTF? Need it for a 2008 Honda City. |
Johnsonkeyz2019:I believe your sway bar links need to be replaced. Should sort out the problem. Cheers! |
Brozok:Hi Sir. A fact you can't gloss over is that your car already produces black smoke from the exhaust. Worn piston rings and engine deposits could be possible culprits. If you must change engine oil, I would advise the semi-synthetic for starters. You might need frequent top-ups if the piston rings are worn and the cost implication for full synthetic won't be nice. Change air filter, scan car to be sure there are no codes that may contribute to the sooty exhaust (eg. Faulty oxygen sensor). |
Aaaaarghmed:Hello Sir. If it is happening frequently, there is a leak in the refrigerant circuit. You must find that leak and seal it first, then recharge with refrigerant to ensure optimal cooling at all times. It is not unusual for an a/c circuit without a leak to get relatively low on refrigerant every 3-5 years (without a leak in the system). Anything less frequent should raise suspicion of a leak. Cheers. Cc: mosbus |
Resido:Hello Sir. Almost laughed when I saw this. I hope you haven't changed compressor and evaporator. The commonest reason for the symptom you described is low refrigerant level, and simply recharging with refrigerant could be all you need. Cheers! |
whatstheFUZZ:Hello Sir. The recommended transmission fluid change interval is whichever of the following comes first: 1) 90,000 miles 2) 144,000 Km 3) 72 months Use only original ATF-DW1. See the manufacterer's maintence recommendations in the manual (link below) for confirmation. Cheers! https://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/pubs/om/SI9999/SI9999O00132A.pdf |
dmariowizzy:Haha!! I understand you. I mentioned the ball joint issues specifically because it is quite common with us in this environment. The people asking questions need to know all the pros and cons of the cars they intend buying. It is very rare to find ball joint issues on American Honda Accord forums. That implies it is our bad roads and inferior quality replacement parts that make it common here. That said, you have only driven your Accord for one year. I put it to you that you can drive it for ten years without any ball joint issue if you drive with discretion. I say this because I have used a 2003 Accord LX as a daily driver for 8 years now AND I have NEVER had any ball joint issues till date. There is practically no part of Nigeria I haven't driven it to as well. Just because not all Accords will have ball joint issues doesn't mean we should not inform those intending to get the car in our environment of the common possible problems. Cheers! |
pcoolioz:You are correct Sir. For such roads, the CRV is clearly your better option. You gain the advantage of better ground clearance and ball joint issues are much less common. Maintenance routine is the same, and the car is quite easy to maintain. That CRV actually has the same engine as the 7th and 8th generation accords. It is just the chassis and interior design that are different. |
Bighead9:Is the 2008 Accord as rugged as the EOD? The EOD (2003-2005) and DC (2006-2007) Accords belong to the same 7th generation. The 2008 Accord was the first in line of the 8th generation. In addition to the contributions already made by other users, you should note these: - The 4-cyl engines of both generations are essentially the same in design. Only that the 2008 has a range of displacement (2.0, 2.4L), as against standard 2.4L in North American 7th generation Accords. Good thing is that engine displacement does not necessarily determine engine longevity. - Poor ground clearance is common to both (but least in the 2006 and 2007 Accords due to their larger wheel diameter relative to ground clearance). By design, the front bumpers hang considerably lower in the 8th generation, so except you will be driving mostly on good roads, the front end may soon be disfigured. - If you will be driving mostly on pot hole riddled roads, ensure you buy a first grade tokunbo Accord. Otherwise, ball joint issues may be common to most Nigerian used Accords for obvious reasons. - Do not buy a V6 except you have a good reasons to. The maintenance is invariably more expensive... And it is more likely to punish you if you don't keep to schedule. - If you pay attention to regular routine maintenance, any of the Accords should serve you well. All considered though, my opinion is that a very good toks 2007 Accord will be better compared to the 2008. - Good thing about these Accords (whether 7th or 8th generation) is that most spare parts are mostly readily available. Thanks. |
dakpemien:Hello Sir, If the engine is still in very good condition, I'd suggest you get Mobil 1 5W-30. It is instructive to find out what engine oil the previous owner used, if it is a Nigerian used car. This information may help you to predict what to expect and/ or explain what you might experience concerning your engine performance over time. Cheers |
Piyke:Hello Piyke, Permit me to help buttress your point a bit. Many people don't know that there was the original harp and now the fake one which is flooding the market lately. In addition to the different can tap sizes mentioned by Piyke.. The original Harp contains pure r134a and the can weighs heavier than the lightweight fake ones, which certainly contains mostly impurities. See pictures below to know the difference.
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Yellowsun16:Where is your location? As you have been told, the a/c system is low on refrigerant. That is the most likely reason for the symptom you described. If it is a dual zone a/c system, different temperature settings between driver's and passenger's side is another possibility. If you look and find no leak in the system, beware of the kind of refrigerant you use to 'top' up. There are so many inefficient ones out there. I recommend that you pull vacuum on the system first before you refill with original r134a. After pulling vacuum, watch for about an hour to see of it doesn't lose the negative pressure (if the system gains pressure, then there is a leak). If pressure remains negative and constant after an hour, there is not likely to be any leak. Then charge system with refrigerant. Cheers |
Chimasunday:Hello Sir. Would you kindly stop spamming this thread with this advert of yours or you will be reported to the moderators and banned. Meanwhile, which Japanese models of Mercedes-Benz do you specialize in? ![]() |
luvinhubby:I would also rather buy the OEM at that cost Sir. Actually, additional shipping costs must be factored in too ![]() |
pls what's OEM ball joint?OEM: Original Equipment Manufacturer. OEM parts are the exact parts installed in your car by Honda from factory. They are the best parts to replace any worn out or broken down parts, because they always fit directly and work exactly as intended. So, to answer your question directly, the exact ball joint installed by Honda in your car is the OEM ball joint. Find a link to it below: https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Honda-51220-SDA-305-Joint-Front/dp/B00BJLL8U0/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1526481226&sr=8-3-fkmr0&keywords=Honda+genuine+OEM+ball+joint-+2003+Honda+Accord The question is can you spend this much on buying reliable ball joints? Many Nigerians don't know the difference between OEM and generic brands. Unfortunately, our markets are filled mostly with generic car parts (apart from parts salvaged from scrapped tokunbo cars). I believe the reason you see Honda legs pull repeatedly on the same car is because OEM ball joints were not installed. Regards! |
Pls give us details if your maintenance regime1) Buy a clean title, direct tokunbo or brand new car. That way, you can be close to 100% sure that the car has OEM ball joints, which last longest. 2) If you bought your Accord Nigerian used, you must have the ball joints examined to rule out wear. If worn, replace with OEM ball joints. OEM ball joint is expensive, but less likely to fail prematurely and their performance is worth it. 3) By all means, avoid speeding over potholes. You may be tempted to do it when you see other road users doing the same. However, you must understand the nature of the car you drive and behave accordingly. That way, your ball joints will last longer. 4) It is possible to pump grease into the rubber boot of your ball joints once in, say 6 months. This helps reduce friction between the bearings, such that ball joint lasts longer. 5) Avoid turning your steering to the last stop as frequently as possible. Cheers! |
afuyebusayo:First transmission fluid change (assuming car bought brand new) should be done at 96,000 km Subsequent transmission fluid changes should be done every 48,000 km Therefore, you should change your transmission fluid every 48,000km using ATF-DW1. |


