Nas00's Posts
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dejiconde:Water should never be the fluid to use in your radiator. The cooling won't be efficient as water boils. Your engine suffers for it and its lifespan shortened. What is recommended is 'coolant'. For instance, Honda recommends their own 'Type 2' coolant which a mixture of water and other additives that increase the boiling point of the fluid and keeps it from freezing in very low temperatures. Generally, there are two types of coolants. 1) The pre-mixed: These already are a mixture of water and the 'coolant' additives. The common coolants sold in our environment are of this type (e.g. Total, Oando, Lb). They should be used ALONE to fill the entire radiator WITHOUT adding water, as they are already pre-mixed. 2) Undiluted coolants: Not common in our environment. These usually come with directions on how to mix with distilled water before filling the radiator. Hope it's clearer now. |
wizzle772:Have you ruled out a slow transmission fluid leak? Commonly from poorly torqued drain plug or solenoid bolts. Lastly, transmission may be on its way out. |
dejiconde:What is water doing in your radiator in the first place? Car abuse!! The water probably has contaminants, causing it to foam. |
YeyeBoyfriend:What car model? As it's been said, the problem is your kick starter. To fix it, you have two options: 1) A good electrician can remove the starter and inspect. Most of the time, it is the 'brushes' in it that are worn and they can be replaced. This is cheaper than buying another starter. If it is the coil that's damaged, it may be difficult to repair. 2) Buy a replacement kick starter. Good luck. |
NuvioProcure:What a relief! Thanks for the update � |
Felakezman:Rocker arm oil pressure switch (a) circuit low voltage: Check wiring of your vtec solenoid. If intact, you might need to replace the solenoid to fix that. A/T system malfunction: Likely due to input speed shaft sensor malfunction. Shift solenoid valve b stuck off: Check the link below for possible causes/ what to do. https://www.autocodes.com/amp/codes/p0756_honda.html |
nas00:@Felakezman |
Conner44:If he truly has a low level of transmission fluid, he could have the symptoms described, without any diagnostic trouble codes. Let him address the low transmission fluid first rather than scam first. Otherwise, there might be permanent damage to the transmission (gearbox). I guess he is still driving the car. If the gear continues to malfunction with a correct fluid level, you may scan. Generally, faulty transmission pressure sensors or shift solenoids would throw trouble codes. |
NuvioProcure:Noted Sir. Good luck � |
Felakezman:If the oil is still clear and pink, you may just top it off. If the oil appears dirty on the dipstick, drain it and refill with three quarts of ATF-DW1. Before you move the car, start engine and slowly run through all gears with your foot on the brake pedal. Cheers! |
Felakezman:No Sir. Transmission fluid means your 'gear oil'. Check its level and rule out leakage. If level is lower than recommended, top it with the recommended ATF (gear oil). You didn't specify your Honda's model/ year. |
Felakezman:Check your transmission fluid level. A low level would cause all symptoms you listed. If transmission fluid is not low. Scan for transmission codes. Lastly, the tyranny might be on its way to giving up. |
NuvioProcure:Hello. I understand that Luvinghubby has already drawn your attention to the drive shaft. It could be your ball joint too (I would put this top of the list). My Accord once gave knocking sounds on turning the steering, which was worsening with time. When I examined the front end, I narrowed it down to the ball joint. I replaced ball joints and knocking sounds disappeared. Cheers! |
A305:It would have been better for you to 'yell God' too. With due respect, that was nonsense you wrote up there and you need to relearn physics. The car was not an object in free fall ab-initio, so where the heck did your 'impact of gravity' analysis appear from? Although gravity plays a role, it is not as direct as you made it seem. I did not witness the accident, but provided the car did not fall off a sharp cliff edge to trigger somersault, then it had enough linear force, F, which became translational upon the vehicle itself due to sudden deceleration by an impact, hence rollovers until the energy is expended, then car stops somersaulting (Recall: Energy can neither be created nor destroyed, hence transformed from one form to the other). Note that 'F' above = vehicle mass x acceleration at time of impact (Newton's second law of motion) Your number 2 statement is even messier. "Tumbling down the slope slowed down the INTENDED PRESSURE OF GRAVITY..." Gravity and Pressure are two different phenomena in physics. Pressure of gravity 'off' me If anything, while a car tumbles down a slope, gravitational force comes into play! Maybe you are a comedian, but if you insist this is physics, something is very wrong. Cheers man. |
temi4fash:This suggests your alternator is not charging your battery as it should. Like it's been suggested already, I agree you should replace the alternator to avoid getting stranded one day. You must first listen for where the noise is coming from (front right/left or rear right/left, engine bay etc) and when the noise occurs (e.g. when climbing a speed breaker, when turning steering etc). The information will be useful in determining the most likely cause. |
Igemburg:There is something called 'idle air control valve' below your throttle body. If it is dirty, idle may be rough. Open, clean, reinstall. Does your steering vibrate when you apply the pedal brake? Is that what you meant in the penultimate sentence? |
osato45:Before you replace fuel pump, there are easier things to rule out: - Which engine oil do you use? If too viscous when cold (the likes of 20W-xy), you may want to use 5W-20 or 5W-30 semi synthetic or full synthetic. - Optimize combustion by cleaning your fuel injectors, throttle body and replacing engine air filter. - Less commonly, wearing starter motor brushes (starter motor is popularly called 'kick' or 'kick starter') could be another culprit. Generally, if this is the case, it may worsen rapidly over a few weeks and car won't even crank anymore. - Also less commonly, a battery getting weak. Batteries generally require more 'power' to start up an engine in cold weather. If all these are ruled out and symptoms persist, you may begin to pay attention to fuel pump. First thing to check for fuel pump is to turn your key in the ignition to the intermediate position and listen for the whining sound of your fuel pump. You should hear it if in a quiet area. If weak (compared to how it used to sound) or absent, fuel pump suspicion stronger. Cheers! |
johnnymoy2007:Most likely culprit is a worn steering rack. Replacing your steering rack should solve that. It is important to do that as soon as possible to avoid an accident. DMechyy:Hmmm... Sway bar or sway bar links (aka 'linkage')? You probably meant to refer to bad sway bar links, in which case, there car responds to steering but sways from side to side after sudden, sharp turns. Can also make one easily lose control of a car. Bad sway bar bushings usually cause 'clanging' noise. |
GCFR696:Possible causes: - Low rpm at idle when A/C on (?dirty IACV) - Bad engine mounts |
18wheeler:Congratulations on your new car Sir. First tip: Avoid parking your car close to a fence so. You never know, especially during rainy season. Second tip: If you want your paint work to last, avoid parking under direct sunlight routinely. Shaded parking space better. Avoid using detergent to wash and wax at least once every three months. Wishing you a pleasurable experience. It's a great car. Cheers! |
markpenk:Hullo Sir, If you still need help in Ibadan, dial my mecho on 08038001922. His workshop's at New Bodija. The top possibilities include: 1) A slow leak somewhere along your brake lines. 2) Air in the brake fluid circuit. 3) Failing master brake cylinder or vacuum assist system (servo). Try to sort it out ASAP. You don't wanna be in an accident due to brake failure (I sincerely hope not). Cheers!! |
theoilguy:And who are 'they'? Whoever you are, that statement speaks volumes about your character. Don't be disrespectful. Cheers! |
dru23:Okay, never meant to argue with anyone. For whatever reasons, the day you use any oil other than high mileage, you'll likely begin to find out. Cheers!! |
temi4fash:Understood. Just trying to say that even Honda doesn't guarantee that your car will work well if you use other fluids apart from their recommended. The reverse is also true. |
temi4fash:No Sir. Normally, that automatically voids your Honda warranty anyday. |
radautoworks:Nor be lie. Na you and me fit understand each other. Most people out there just don't understand as much. All they wonder is why it should cost them so much to recharge their a/c ![]() |
Aaaaarghmed:For refrigerant not more than 5k, expect substandard cooling (typically cold at night but you sweat in the sun). If pure r134a must be used, can't be less than 10k. The main problem is availability. Most of the refrigerant in our market are impure, hence cool poorly. I have some available, but usually for private use cos most people out there won't want to pay for such. But that's premium service ... Pulling vacuum + charging ![]() |
mythy70:Hello Sir. Sadly, you should have asked before filling the transmission with Holts ATF. Right now, the ideal thing to do is to uncouple the transmission and drain the Holts fluid completely before refilling with recommended ATF. That's one hell of a job, but might be better than having to buy a new transmission soon. The Mobil semi-synthetic engine oil is okay. Not sure you will readily find the OEM oil seals in our market, except you import. I suggest you contact Luvinghubby, who might be able to recommend a locally available alternative based on experience. Cheers! |
mbahjohnpaul:Hello! If it is the high mileage, extended performance Mobil 1, DO NOT USE except your engine is leaking oil already. By 'leaking oil', I mean engine oil minimally SEEPING out of some parts of the engine, giving it a wet appearance. If your engine block and sump are dry and free of engine oil seepage, continue with the normal full synthetic Mobil 1. Why? The HIGH MILEAGE, extended performance Mobil 1 contains additives that swell up your oil seals. The aim is to improve the competence of the seals in a high mileage engine (some of which are likely to have started allowing oil seep through). However, the unintended consequence of using the oil in an engine not yet leaking oil is compromise of the integrity of intact seals....and they will soon start seeping oil. I do hope you understand. Good luck. |
temi4fash:It's an electrical issue. My guess would be an ignition coil-related issue, but you never can tell till you run a scan. Do that and we go from there. Scan the car after a good drive (not after parking the car overnight or for longer periods). |
theoilguy:Hello Sir. Kindly alert when you have Mobil 1 5W-20 in stock. I do not want the high mileage variant though. Thanks. |
... Pulling vacuum + charging 