₦airaland Forum

Piyke:
I will try another product that has PEA (polyetheramine) and update...

I will use Gumout multi-system tuneup for the next experiment.

Midoda:
I am volunteering my mercedes W203 for a liqui moly valve clean test if you are in lagos.

Not in Lasgidi o

Eldemmi:
bro please if you have a used good scanner to sell like the one u sold few weeks ago..
I am interested.
thanks in anticipation.

None available, unfortunately...

I will try another product that has PEA (polyetheramine) and update...

I tested another product: Total Petrol Treatment from oil giant Total.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SB93iOj83n4

4 for me.

drmuchin:
pls kindly explain 'starburst"?

It's the certification seal of the American Petroleum Institute

alphaNomega:
I see, it doesn't matter if the oil is synthetic or conventional, as long as the weight is within spec, yes?

Depends... Some vehicles specifically call for synthetic oil. Asides that, weight within spec, regular changes and good quality oil are good practices.

alphaNomega:
Hey Piyke, how often do you service your Honda and what kind of oil do you use?

Generally between 3500 - 4500 miles. I use conventional 5w-30 oil. Oil must have the starburst. STP Pro formula is the brand I use.

It has a smaller Bluetooth dongle that attaches to a port in the vehicle...

Not to talk of those syndicates that come back to pick the vehicle with the key they kept to themselves.

Now I only have my 2 keys registered to my immobilizer. I got the car with only 2 keys.

These days some sellers even give only one key

I demonstrate the programming of keys to a 2003 Accord (without an existing key). Typically called 'all keys lost' function.

Device is the Autel MaxiPRO MP808TS


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y8KNT8-DGeA

In summary, the product increased deposits in the combustion chamber.

After running the generator for an additional 6hrs with just petrol, the deposits were almost cleared

Piyke:
2nd is a borescope/endoscope that works with Android devices

Piyke:
I intend to view carbon buildup in the combustion chamber of my car before and after using a product that claims to remove carbon.

It all started from the 2 posts above. I had acquired the borescope but never got to use it in my car. I decided to use it on my gen before and after using the STP super concentrated injector cleaner. I was surprised by my findings.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AvnoZFYn7e4

Modified:
Title modified as I am now doing a series on the above to test a number of additives in the market.

legionISproteus:
arrrrrhhhhhh! What's that brown stuff on the engine?

Looks like termite stuff

EgunMogaji2:
Six years ago already, time flies.

A lot of those tools got stolen at the ports but most of the rest are in my garage at Elebu.

I don’t know if I ever shared this little wrench. It’s insulated so it makes working on batteries safe.

Those port rats

GAZZUZZ:
Noted. But

But is it your rice?

It is our rice o

Let me rig the ongoing election small
G-MECH sounds a bit yahooish o and you can see from the multiple screenshots that he has been moving from one party to the other

GAZZUZZ - may make you easily identifiable, not bad if you don't mind.

But we, the association of petrolheads, still think w201-I6 is the best candidate in this election

9icetoo:
G-MECHor w201-I6 get my vote.

My own vote. It's kind of coded and will inspire petrolheads

DonDemu:
Thanks very much for the words bro. I've started with YouTube videos already. Any idea on the kind of scanner I should get?

Good. Add extensive reading to this.

Scanner to get depends on your budget, during this learning phase, you may choose to get a basic one, more like for trying things out on your car after reading. I started with a generic scanner and learned a lot (generic OBD, fuel trims etc) before I got a scanner with access to 4 systems and subsequently got another with access to more systems. Basically, I upgraded as knowledge & experience increased.
I have seen a lot of people/shops who wield expensive scanners but lack the very basics of diagnostics e.g interpreting fuel trims. They simply go code hunting. Don't fall into this. Give yourself time and effort, and I would say don't open the scanning place at this stage.

GAZZUZZ:
He couldn't resist the urge

Sorry sir. You know I'm still learning how to be a demeanor

Praxtech:
How do you pull vacuum without taking out the oil?

You do not need to take out oil from the system to pull a vacuum. You just need to evacuate the gas. Of course some oil will leave as you do so, but a lot will be left in the AC components.

Arrived class late , but following

DonDemu:
I have been a silent reader of Car Talk for a number of years and I must say that I have benefited a lot.

I am from one of the northern states where we have only one car diagnostic center. We call it "wajen car computer" which literally means the place you can find a car computer. That should tell you that my people over here do not know much about car diagnostic and those who know are being ripped off of their hard earned cash at "wajen car computer" just to scan their cars.

So I picked interest in opening a car diagnostic center and may be run my services at a cheaper price and also run a robust awareness campaign/advert on the radio on the advantages of scanning your car to detect issues in order to bring in customers.

But the thing is I don't have the knowledge to interpret the codes gotten from the scans. Is there any way I can be able to learn it? Cos just like "wajen car computer" I intend my services to be that where I just scan your car and interpret the codes detected and its left for you and your mechanic to go fix it.

Car Talk gurus, pls assist me.

Cc Gazzuzz CarGuidNG Deportivo Readonee35L Computerglobal Ikenna351 Marpol Piyke AutoElectNG legalwealth

Everyone starts from somewhere. Depending on how savvy you are with self learning and if you are ready to devote time and energy to reading and YouTube (I mean a lot), you will get there. It sounds like you have the passion. Otherwise if you prefer to be taught then you will need some type of course, though it sounds like such isn't available in your area. Don't be discouraged though. Do you have a car? Do you have a scanner?

Drcentrist:
Piyke what do you pump a Toyota corolla written 30psi as recommended but tyre can take 44psi,I normally pump to 35psi,what's your suggestion?

Go with what is written on the door jam area (30psi). What is written on the tyre is the maximum cold pressure which should not be exceeded. Take it as the design limit of the tyre.

dgitrader:
Vulcanizers Ooooh.

I once asked a roadside vocah what PSI my tyre needed, he said '50' like a boss, I was wowed! Asked why, he smiled and pointed to a spot in the tyre where it was written ''51psi max''. I simply told him to use 40psi and ran for my dear life.

@gazzuzz
If 35psi is recommended as in most cases, why does the tire look a bit visually deflated where strictly applied? Especially with not too new tires?

This seeming deflation is very important to maintain the ideal 'contact patch' of the tyre with the road. Overinflation reduces the size of the patch and lengthens the distance over which braking occurs. It also affects handling and traction.

thonyman:
Oga Pyke,
Pls I need to reach you on the phone, please give me your contact.

PM replied

veeshock:
But the temp reading looks normal.

Good catch on the temperature.

The car was not driven today and Abuja has been having cool temperate weather of recent.

GAZZUZZ:
your friend is suicidal , I like your scan tool

Thanks boss. Glad to have eliminated this safety issue for my friend.

Imagine having almost 56psi in a tyre that should have 35psi. I can't imagine the number of accidents that are caused by incorrect tyre pressures in this country.

Do you know your tyre pressures?

Next, I activated the tyre sensors and got the readings below.

The correct pressures for this car are:
Front - 30psi
Rear - 35psi

The vehicle is a 2008 C class and he had just taken on a 12hr trip (6hrs each way).

I hooked up my scanner, entered the TPMS service menu and pulled the sensor ID's from the TPMS ECU. The only abnormal thing at this point was a missing ID for the left rear tyre sensor.