rationalmind: That's really impressive. Any issue with your axles?
My TL has been solid. Only issue in the last 7 months is a recurring failure of the drive shaft. First it was the inner, then later it was the right outer and now the same right outer is showing early signs of failure.
Complete OEM is over a thousand dollars for both sides. There's no way I'm spending that kind of money on axles. Saw some aftermarket units on rockauto for a fifth of the OEM price and will be placing the order by the turn of the year. Hopefully, I'll get 30k miles out of them before they wear out.
Thanks boss. Having one subtle vibration at speed that I'm still troubleshooting. So can't give a definitive answer on this for now. On the Rockauto axle, please research the brand very well, have seen some stories of vibrations with some aftermarkets.
So the used OEM finally broke and I replaced it with the the below...
Piyke: Apo Market sells mostly used parts. The seller I met had both direct Belgium aka used OEM and used aftermarket mounts. His advice is actually why I opened this thread. He said there's a particular brand of used aftermarket that he will give me a warranty on. He vouched that even the front mount of this aftermarket will run without vibrations and last as long. I didn't want to take the risk, but was tempted since he would have made more money on the OEM but was recommending the aftermarket.
In the end, I got the OEM for the front and an aftermarket for the rear. Fitted them, no issues, no vibrations.
Alas, the 'reputable aftermarket' had some vibration when at a stop with the transmission in D and AC on (e.g. At a red light). I just didn't like the Fred Flinstone massage .
To be honest, it wasn't that pronounced but certainly not something I could leave with. Drove it for some months and finally decided enough is enough. Yesterday, I switched back to used OEM again and it's all nice and smooth . The rough massager wasn't broken when I brought it out. It was still good.
Piyke: Address: Doesn't have a house address number, but it's off College of education road. If coming from the Nnebisi end, it's the next left turn after the school gate. Once on this untarred road, its the 2nd green gate on the right.
Cost depends on the level of panel beating your car would require. I paid 60k for the paint job, panel beater charged an additional 5k for his own work.
radautoworks: Did you know Carquest is the same company as Advance Auto parts USA? When the company owns it, it's an Advance Auto parts. When someone like me owns it, it's a Carquest.
Didn't know. Interesting. Any link with Rockauto or are they an entirely different animal?
Piyke: 2nd is a borescope/endoscope that works with Android devices
Below is an image I took with the borescope. This is the fan motor in the outdoor unit of my air conditioner. Quite pleased with the image quality. Shoots videos in HD too
radautoworks: These nonsense us security say na hazmat so no air freight
I almost asked if this wasn't HAZMAT when you gave the shipping timelines. Once wanted to have a freight forwarder ship to me by air but he declined for the same reason.
My own kazeemy stuff... I have never changed the washers on my oil or transmission drain plugs. None of them has leaked since this prolonged history of reuse...
9icetoo: I was wondering if the accord I knew had a GDI engine. I checked the price of the humour on Jumia and it's 13k. Will do the maths and see if it's worth it. If I have to use it twice to get results, that's 26k. Almost three tanks of fuel.
radautoworks: Sorry, meant the gumout. We have the CRC for 6,913 but I'm not sure if we have that particular gumout in stock. Would need part number to check.
9icetoo: I was wondering if the accord I knew had a GDI engine. I checked the price of the humour on Jumia and it's 13k. Will do the maths and see if it's worth it. If I have to use it twice to get results, that's 26k. Almost three tanks of fuel.
Looks like its cheaper on Konga. My dear initially thought car was GDI o! MPFI can also suffer from carbon build up on intake valves/combustion chamber but not as much as GDI. Besides no one knows the octane rating and level of detergents in the petrol we use in Naija. Good thing is that the CRC intake cleaner is safe for use in MPFI engines as well. Since I will inspect with a borescope, I should be able to see any reduction in carbon after. I will try to make a YouTube video.
Conner44: I had to buy a new engine as the former one lost much compression and was shorting oil. The car had no check engine lights at all and everything else works fine. Then came the change.
After mounting and fixing, the new engine started but was going off once you took your foot off the throttle so someone checked the timing and it seemed to be working fine.
After I started using it I noticed that if I switch on the ac and the car is idling it vibrates so badly that the whole car is shaking. The only way to stop the vibration is by increasing the idle speed (which isn’t proper). My usual idle is 700-800rpm but when I switch on ac it drops dangerously first and almost stalls the engine before rising to 600rpm steady but vibrating. I put in another iaac valve but the symptoms still persisted.
I also noticed that once the engine is properly warmed up after driving a distance and I come to a stop and switch to neutral the tachometer first settles at about 800rpm then if I don’t use the throttle after about 10seconds it settles down further to around 600rpm. My old engine never behaved this way. If I should switch on the ac at this point the engine usually stalls 90% of the time.
All the engine and transmission mounts are good because they were checked. I scanned and got two codes. P0341 (camshaft position sensor A), P0747 (Pressure control solenoid A stuck on)
I went online to find out the exact vehicle this engine was for but can’t seem to pinpoint it. Then if I go on Honda site they don’t even show specifications for this K24A6 range of engines.
When the Mech was Installing the engine he swapped the portion housing the water pump with my old engine because he said the new engine’s own wasn’t compatible. So I took out the water pump from the new engine and put it in my old housing to use (I’m talking about a unit on the K24 engine block which houses the water pump)
I just wish I could know what exact car used this engine so I can understand it better and know how to sort it’s codes. The only issue I’m having with it is that it vibrates with the ac and the idle speed not adjusting as it should.
Please do you know the symptoms of the balance shaft not functional on these K24 engines?