₦airaland Forum

lilkech:
Please 2004 accord i4 wobbles/vibrates only while accelerating from 80kmph to 100kmph. While I’m within that speed range if I take my foot off the throttle pedal the vibration stops. Please what might be the issue with the car?

Also my steering pulls slightly to the right hand side while in motion

Piyke
adanny01
thebigkendo

I have nothing more to add to the recommended.

thebigkendo:
It might have been over inflated or under inflated .. Did you also check the tire ratings? Overloading?
Maybe the owners has been entering pot holes at high speed and the tire has deformed.. So many other factors could have caused the blow out..

Your hypothesis is just like police not investigating a "suicide" because obviously the person was hanging from a rope & a stool was pushed.. Forgetting that it could have murder which was staged to look like suicide

I personally don't subscribe to the 4 years tire expiry thingie

It could have definitely come from any of the bold. How about no tire rotation since original installation . Only saying that if you subject 2 tires of the same make (brand new and an aged one) to these same stresses, I would expect the 'aged' one to fail first ceteris paribus

To your second point, I don't agree tires expire after 4 years either. My reference to changing my tires every 4 years or at the signs of structural failure (whichever comes first) is just personal practice. What I don't recommend is using thread wear as the sole indicator for when to replace a tire.

Leo3333:
How would you rate Khumo Tyres?

No experience with the brand at all!

maasoap:
The complain about Double King is too much. Good Ride is better but Maxis is the best. Michelin, Bridgestone, Firestone, Dunlop, Yokohama are tested and trusted. Also, there are "light truck", they are denser and heavier, while there are "ordinary", they are lighter

Reading the complaints too o .

thebigkendo:
How are you sure about this?

It's just my hypothesis. Inkling was the year of manufacture and the fact that it suffered structural failure.

Jarus:
Tyre=British
Tire = American

I agree with your other comment

Simplyleo:
Secondly, I don't subscribe to the crap that a tyre should be changed after a particular period.

Change your tyre as soon as the gripping threads are worn, whether or not it has expired.

This is exactly the reason why I added the below in bold. The thread on this blown out tire still had some meat left in it yet it blew out. Age caught up with the tire

Piyke:
The fact is, rubber expires and there are factors that can hasten tire wear e.g. Heat, under-inflation, over-inflation, hitting obstacles at speed etc. It's even worse for us in Nigeria given the poor implementation of post market validation for the varied makes of tires that have flooded our market. A lot of low quality Chinese tires. Don't get me wrong, they are good quality Chinese tires.

Leopantro:
Could I get the names of the good quality Chinese tyres please?

I know people who have used double king with no complaints if you observe the recommended practices for tire care. This is the only brand I have experience with. It doesn't mean its the only good brand.

ezugegere:
If psi: 50 is inscribed on a tyre, does it mean you should pump the tyre to 50?

The PSI rating stamped on a tire is the pressure that should not be exceeded when inflating a cold tire. The recommended pressure for a car is found on a label in the driver door jam area.

clemzo101:
All my double King tyres of just under 2 years are bad

2 family members have used double King tires with good success. The other factor we have not covered here is the vulcaniser connection. Story for another day, but back in 2012 one inflated my tire to 50psi.
Wear also depends on how much mileage you cover. Threads will typically go out from around 50k miles.

NaijadrivaCars:
This tire I can see was made on the 36th week of 2016. Which one is 2013 pls?

I just zoomed in here. Its 2013

Simplyleo:
Op, first, that word is spelt "tyre".

Secondly, I don't subscribe to the crap that a tyre should be changed after a particular period.

Change your tyre as soon as the gripping threads are worn, whether or not it has expired.

Both spellings are correct. Tyre is UK, Tire is US.

While some premium tire brands (Michelin, Continental) recommend changing their tires 10years from the manufacture date (provided annual inspections are conducted after the 5ft year), Car makers e.g. Mercedes-Benz and Nissan recommend replacement 6 years from manufacture date irrespective of thread wear.

The fact is, rubber expires and there are factors that can hasten tire wear e.g. Heat, under-inflation, over-inflation, hitting obstacles at speed etc. It's even worse for us in Nigeria given the poor implementation of post market validation for the varied makes of tires that have flooded our market. A lot of low quality Chinese tires. Don't get me wrong, they are good quality Chinese tires.

Second

Someone else who came for a procedure I can't remember, had his tire explode during inflation. It was a very a loud bang!!!

Didn't get the chance to examine this tire but from the way it looked from 5feet, thread wear, aging were sure factors.

The first set of things I wanted to examine were: thread wear, year of manufacture and make/country of manufacture.

1. Thread wear: the tire hadn't worn down to the wear indicators.
2. Year of manufacture: 2013. 6 years plus old
3. Brand /country of manufacture: Westlake, made in China

First

A 2010 Toyota Camry came in with a tire blowout. Blowouts are structural failures and I was curious to see if I could identify any risk factors that may have led to the blowout in this case.

It's that time around when Mrs Piyke's car needs new tires. For safety reasons, I usually replace tires maximum of 4 years from the manufacture date.

I zoomed off to Gudu, got 4 new tires and proceed to my regular wheel balancing/alignment outfit.

2 things that happened while I was there that made me open this thread...

AutoElectNG:
I made a post on the same a while ago https://www.nairaland.com/4743543/tips-tricks-make-automotive-battery#71543973

Nice thread you have there. Read through!

uboma:
Compliments of the season, Sir.

Going through your threads, loads of information you have provided.

I may contact you in the future for some auto technical support.

Thanks.

Thanks Boss. You're welcome!

tensazangetsu20:
Why don't you buy premium batteries like Bosch?

Just the cost my brother o. They are highly recommended where cost is not an issue

uboma:
@ Piyke,

Thank you for this informative piece. I just realised that you are also reside in the FCT.

How much did you buy the multimeter?

I will like to have my AC checked, are you available to carry out this service?

Can't really remember how much I got the multimeter for, but, it's very available in Naija.

Per the AC, not really available at this time. Compliments of the season!

SamuelAnyawu:
What do they use the old batteries fo

There's a thriving recycling system that recovers the lead for use in new batteries. Not sure if this is done locally, however, it's very much the practice in the West.

id4sho:
How much did it cost you? I bought mine 16k at Abuja too though in 2018 and has been serving me.

You mean the battery charger? Got it for £20 on Amazon

GAZZUZZ:
nah to connect mine to my solar panel via charge controller

Lol. Any which way that works.

I have fully charged my battery and it reads 13.3v

My lesson from all of this is, in Nigeria we often buy already sulphated car batteries. This is especially true, where the battery is faaar from its manufacture date and has been sitting on the shelf for months with a weak charge (NB: a battery with <12.6v will still start your car).

Salt is added to injury when you buy such batteries and drive mostly congested roads. Batteries are called into action more frequently to supplement engine loads at low RPM. The end result is a battery that is rarely fully charged.

This is why a number of battery shops abroad recommend using a trickle charger. It keeps the battery fully charged and limits the risk of sulphation.

I just went back to the first shop, bought the battery and left. My plan was to use my 12v battery charger to fully charge the new battery.

Lest I forget, old battery sold for 3k so I paid the dealer less 3k .

Back to sulfation, when a 12v car battery sits at <12.45volts the risk for sulfation is higher and I wanted to get the freshest with little or no sulphation.

I left the shop and went to others. The results were even worse. All were 12.2v or less. The first shop offered the best bang for my buck!

With multimeter in hand, I headed to Gudu Market. My first stop was where I got my last one. Following a call to Gazzuzz, I settled for Everstart this time. However, when I checked the voltage, it read 12.3 volts.

I usually get about 3years out of car batteries. My rules of engagement for purchasing a new battery are:
1. Buy a reputable Korean brand (for now I don't buy premium brands like Bosch etc)
2. Check the manufacturing date
3. Go with a multimeter to check battery voltage.
4. Don't listen to the battery seller when he starts "Oga this is the latest one in town"

Sulfation is the formation of lead sulfate crystals on the battery plates. If prolonged, this will lead to a longer charge duration and ultimately early battery failure. A weak charge (<12.6volts) is one of the major causes of sulfation. This applies whether the car battery is on a shelf or in a parked vehicle.

My car battery died recently and I was in the market for a new one. I will detail my experience in subsequent posts...

aaidel:
please where is this Apo market is it close to resettlement?

It's on the same road but further down. You can search for it on Google maps using "Apo spare parts" or "mechanic village, apo"

fait10:
How many litres of fuel does ur honda accord eod consume per km

Honestly, I don't keep petrol consumption records based on per litre. All I can say is from full to half tank, I cover around 170 - 190miles depending on driving style.