Piyke: I was in Lagos recently and picked up all I need to correctly charge an AC system! Thanks to Gazzuzz who gave me the right market to get these in Lag.
I had to do this because when my magnetic clutch was replaced 3 years ago, no vacuum was applied on the system . I just couldn't find a shop with a vacuum pump. Now I know better.
My cabin now feels like trekking unclothed in Antarctica
I did this again recently and got a video this time...
I did remember watching a video of yours doing an Electronic Load Detector ELD job.
I am having the issue currently and mine is horrific. It has left me stranded several times. I thought I had a dead battery but if I charge outside the car the battery holds good charge only to become weak days later.
It was just yesterday I discovered during live scan that at idle I have 13.9-14.5vdc but while driving it drops to 12.4-12.7vdc and 11.9vdc with full lights and high sound system volume. It means I drive on batteries and idle on alternator except when AC is on. So if I don't have enough idle time, my battery will be depleted and can't start the car. It has happened randomly more than 5times. I left the car for 4months and it started at once but when I drove out, the battery went flat.
What was your result? Is changing the ELD unit only a viable option?
Hi adanny01,
Sorry for the late reply... Been off NL for a bit.
You are correct, I did do a video https://youtu.be/tMh9tbo4Ee8 that showed how to replace the ELD although the objective of the video was to fix a high beam light that wouldn't turn off. (Disclaimer: @all - this is one of my older videos that I am not so proud of the videography , you should check my newer videos before you judge me ). This was done by replacing the logic board in the non-serviceable part of the engine fuse box. You will encounter the ELD in the course of this procedure. I did not change mine. Now, 2 questions as this could be a failing ELD or alternator. Do you have a CEL with an ELD related code? Also, does the battery circuit warning indicator come on at all? If it does, does it flicker or stay steady. If flickering, I would be leaning more towards an ELD. Steady, I guess more of an alternator that is unable to switch into high gear since you say it supplies 14vdc approx at idle.
Assuming things are pointing to the ELD, that should be the cheaper option to replace. In my case I got the used, skeletal engine fuse box for; I think N2,500. All useful components were already gone: fuses, relays etc save the ELD and logic board.
Reminds me of my days of driving Gombe to Enugu! Used the Jos, makurdi route a couple times. Also did the Adamawa, Taraba route once. This was before all the herdsmen madness started. That said, the best road I've driven on in Nigeria is Warri to Patani (I think). This was the road built by Ibori. Okowa in power, long after Ibori had gone, yet it had no pot holes. Had some very good straights as well. Almost like airport runway tarmac lol. The foreign firm did a darn good job on the road.
thaqib: I drive a 2000 Camry. I had in d past( usually within) 4 or 6 months been either changing alternator, battery or both. Last week, I decided to take a bold step and at ladipo, a rewire traced d problem to brainbox. So last week, I changed the brain box, bought a new battery and a supposedly good alternator
Today , my battery stopped kicking. I had to jump start the car. The battery is flat
What do I do?
Parasitic drain very possible here. A multimeter will say a lot. A competent tech can rule out the alternator and find out what the problem is with a multimeter. Find a good workshop.
9icetoo: 11k miles a year!!! Piyke, you dey waka oo. Nice one. Very reliable vehicle you have there
Lol. Don't think it's too much. This car has been driven mostly highway including going to work. It is stop and go that kills vehicles, especially if maintenance practice is poor on top of that.
Now over 255k miles and doing more preventive maintenance.
I recently noticed my radiator fans come on at a higher temperature than previously. They used to come on before 100oC but this changed to 100 and above. So I went ahead to replace the radiator fan switch (coolant temperature switch/sensor). I did a video while at it:
Please I have the following codes showing up on my scanner. I have shifting issues whereby the gear slips when changing to 2 and wouldn't shift again until I off and on the car before it engages normal but starts the crazy after like 10mins. It has been really frustrating. It started after I serviced the gear sometime in July with another transmission fluid (can't remember the name). I had to revert to DW1 about a month ago and I plan to drain 2litres out and replace with DW1 in 2wks time. Please can you help out. I use '03 EOD
Better to create a thread or post in the ask Gazzuzz thread. That said, for the transmission, you need to do a x3 drain and fill with DW1 and then a final fill up. This has to be done ASAP and you must follow the factory recommended way of doing this (not the 2L drain & refill). There is no guarantee that damage hasn't occurred in the transmission, however, the x3 drain is the logical next step. You may only need x2 if your DW1 replacement a month ago was done correctly.
Eddee: Good morning aunty Rad, checked the parts request catalog online and couldn’t find this: 433hz TPM sensors. Any help will be greatly appreciated cc: piyke
N.B - pre-programmed, plug and play
You know you'll still need to relearn the TPMS to the vehicle right? Programming is one thing, relearning another.
@Marpol I believe these are the kind of threads that should be deactivated immediately it is opened. It only fosters bickering and has no genuine intent.
Eddee: Good morning aunty Rad, checked the parts request catalog online and couldn’t find this: 433hz TPM sensors. Any help will be greatly appreciated cc: piyke
N.B - pre-programmed, plug and play
Seen. Let me know how it goes. I see Aunty Radu is already doing the needful above
GAZZUZZ: From the results android is favoured over the single din car stereo without display.
That being said since there are opinions about the single preference let's aim for another media unit that is interactive and will still maintain the single din look.
I am thinking of a retractable foldable motorised 7inch inch screen which is smaller, and also android.
Let's Put it to vote. If you like this (old boring classic tape) click share. If you Do not like it and prefer the new look (Android 9system) click like.
Modified
Voting ends 4pm today, popular opinion will be adopted
I vote classic. I would have voted for the new look if it was well integrated with a customised faceplate. I feel like the tablet sticking out like that, blocking the other buttons takes away from the car
I think this is for people who want to use the product purely for soundproofing. I know underhood liners offer some level of sound proofing... Me thinks the main reason why Gazzuzz is looking for it is to prevent that "gbam gbam" sound when someone hits on your hood. It eliminates some of that hollow sound