₦airaland Forum

Thanks so much! Have being trying to see how I could use my songs as ring tunes.

Egji:
Hi everyone, I'm starting this thread to request help from the nairaland community in troubleshooting the issue I'm having with my car.

I drive a Toyota Corolla, it runs perfectly fine without the a/c on, but when I put on the a/c on a hot afternoon in traffic, the car starts overheating.

My radiator has a single fan, functioning for both the radiator and the condenser
I have visited a mechanic, who scanned the car.

He replaced the a/c relay that controls a manual a/c compressor and the engine thermostat. But he left the fan running directly with the ignition because the compressor was not controlling the radiator fan when we put on the a/c.

I have flushed the radiator and steam washed the condenser. Then we refilled the cooling system with red abro anti rust coolant. And bleed the cooling system.
I tested the car in heavy traffic and it still overheats. Please what do I do now??


In my view, there are a lot of things that could cause this problem, and this is how I intend to help.


***I would suggest you allow a professional electrician to look at the fan connections and the AC system for you*****


1. Having a single fan that extracts the heat from the radiator and AC condenser comes on some cars. Such fans are called flex fans, and it doesn't matter whether its a double bladed fan.

The rate of air flow and extraction has already being out into consideration by the manufacturer already.

CHECK the speed of rotation of the fan.
In your statement, you started the fan has being connected to run directly with your ignition system (fan set at Hi now).

Are you sure the mechanic did connect the polarities of the fans according? If he didn't, then the direction of rotation of fan would be opposite(can't extract the heat from the system).

ACCORDING to you, that direct fan connection hasn't helped matters.
This tells me the fan isn't the problem.

2. You also said the thermostat has being replaced with a 2012 one.

CHECK if that thermostat was properly aligned in its position. If it isn't, the bleed valve incorporated on the thermostat would not open, to allow to flow of cold coolants from the radiator to the cylinder head.

Also ensure that a thermostat with the right T°C rating was afixed. If my memory doesn't fail me, Toyota has a rating of 82/83°C.

3. "You flushes radiator and condenser, and same problem persists".

Steam washing the radiator and the condenser, would not solve this problem.

SOLUTION: If you can't replace both radiators and condenser, dismantle the radiator, and thoroughly wash it. For the condenser, here's the magic wand:

¶¶¶¶¶{Remove the condenser from the car, and ask your AC tech guy to remove the CYLINDRICAL FILTER embedded in the side of the condenser itself. If that filter inside the condenser is clogged, the condenser builds up excess pressure>T°C that the single fan might not be able to contain.¶¶¶¶¶


4. Have that compressor looked at by an AC tech.
If that car's compressor system isn't OK (a compressor system in which the pistons in it are gradually seizing), the extra load added to the engine, would cause the car to overheat.

5. Cylinder head gasket might be failing already.
But this should be a last resort.
Iron out the least issues first before jumping to the gasket.



In summary,

¶¶¶¶¶get a professional electrician, an AC tech, and a mechanic to rule out the Ac and electrical system.

This would help identify if the mechanic routed the fan and AC circuitry correctly, and also if the thermostat of the AC was set properly; the mechanic would find out if the engine thermostat was properly aligned, etc.

Get the AC tech to inspect the CYLINDRICAL FILTER FOR YOU FOR CLOGS.

¶¶¶¶¶finally!!!, the top cylinder gasket might be the culprit.





Please, do keep the house posted on how you were able to sort this out.



PS: Do not replace parts yet. Just try as much as possible to CUT COST down by dismantling the radiator and flushing it, remove the condenser internal filter to asses its state, and ask the mechanic to revert all connections back to OEM (the way he met them), then a competent electrician/AC tech/mechanic, to have those looked at.





Regards,
Joseph
Isolo, Lagos
DW Nig Ltd
info@dxta.net.ng/oigonojoseph@yahoo.com
08066643532(call/WhatsApp)

INTRODUCTION

After I had penned down a piece some weeks ago, about halting any purchase of vehicles from the USA, some few days later, potential and existing car owners, inquired, as follows:

1. "Can I still order for a car from the USA, despite the flood?"
This was asked by a potential car owner.

2. "During this flood issue, cars in the USA would be dammed cheap. What needs to be replaced, if I go ahead and import such cars in Nigeria"?
This was asked by a car dealer.

Before I proceed, below is the link to the article that generated these questions:

https://www.nairaland.com/4055252/beware-vehicles-coming-usa-time


It is a true fact that vehicles that have being flooded, are extremely cheap, and.....

The reasons such vehicles are totaled by insurers, is because of their likely potential cost of repairs, if they're to be made serviceable.

In my view, the reliability of such vehicles, calls for greater concern, ranging from safety, and maintenance overruns.

Doing justice to the questions above,

1. Vehicles could still be ordered from flood invested continents, etc.

The reliability and durability of such orders, in my opinion, is directly proportional, to the (a) duration in which the vehicle had being submerged in a flood; (b) depth of flooded waters on such vehicles. This goes along way to determine which components/parts if the vehicle has being flooded, and that determines also the cost of repairs of such vehicles.

If you have information (a) and (b) at your finger tips, and are ready to spend in fixing such cars, why not!? you could go ahead and import them.

Note: The longer the duration a vehicle had being in a flood, the more the cost of repairs on such vehicles.

In essence, time is money.


WHEN YOU'VE IMPORTED THE VEHICLE INTO THE COUNTRY, WHAT ARE YOU LIKELY TO REPLACE OR DO?

This depends on the extend of flood on the vehicle.
1. All interior and engine wiring harnesses. Steel, and copper have good thermal conductivities, and at the same time, when they are left unattended to after a flooded incident, the electrical wirings/connectors, gradually degrades, and corrodes.

Not replacing these harnesses, would gradually, and in some instances, cause all sorts of electrical/electronic circuitry problems, such as short circuits (where a current follows a path of least resistance, either to a positive, or to ground.); open circuits (a components, suddenly stops working); and battery drain problems.

2. All headlight and rear lights should be removed and cleaned of moisture, and sun dried.

3. Vehicle modules. Modern cars these days, have got different types of modules, ranging from those that control the ABS braking systems (skid control module); ECU module (controls power management systems, such as injection pulse widths, ignition drives, and a host of others).

Normally such critical components could be replaced at the same time with the wiring harnesses, or repaired, if they are not severely damaged.

4. Brake discs/drums could be sand papered, using emery cloths. This is only applicable, if the vehicle hasn't being left in the junkyard, or with the insurers in the USA, for months, or years. Remember, corrosion thrives aggressively in the presence of oxygen and water.

Brake lines, and pipes should be inspected for any signs of corrosion.

5. Entire car body should be inspected, and treated for corrosion.

Underneath the car should be sprayed with anti rust. This prevents further corrosion beneath the car.

6. Any signs of swollen spots on the body paints, should be taken seriously. Those are signs of water bubbles engrained in the body paint.

The car may require a complete body paint overhaul.

7. A complete engine overhaul, or replacement might be required. This would depend on if the engine/transmission system has being over flooded, leading to an hydro locked situation.

But if the mechanical systems, engine and transmission systems are OK, there won't be need for any major overhauls in such a system.

In our working experiences, engine and transmission damages had always being rare.

CONCLUSION
In a disaster of this magnitude anywhere in the world, this is the time a dealer would make some quick fortunes, while a potential buyer, would purchase a car for a "meagre" price. All these benefits would accrues to both parties, only and only if the time of occurrence of the flood, and time in which the flooded vehicle, has being left unattended to.

Cars that have being flooded, can definitely be out back into service, but in some cases, the cost of repairs tends to outweigh the cost or purchase of such vehicles. So, I'd suggest if you can't be certain about the duration the vehicle had stayed unattended to after a flood, it would be of immense benefits for you to save gradually to get a much more better one.


PS: Just in case you'd want to go ahead with such an order, we'd be happy to bring back that car to service.


Regards,
Joseph
DW Nig Ltd
08066643532(calls/WhatsApp)
info@dxta.net.ng; oigonojoseph@yahoo.com

@spinna. Na you talk that one o! You think those guys ha e a designated place, where they operate?

@jagermester. You just de funny sha. God no free make I enter keke b DAT o!

@samblaks. "Wai!!! Ai ma ka yi sa'a basu ma bude kofan ba" .Meaning, you were dammed lucky, your instincts, kinda sent a quick one to your oblongata. If you hadn't responded, that would ha e being it.

@greenhulk. I have never thought about that either.
I think that's the trend these guys kinda employ these days.
What you think?
Terribly sorry for the theft of that phone.
Almost every Lagosian must have experienced that.

@timifakay. Gaskiya kam. My phone was places on the gear knob area.

@maxxx. I'm in Lagos.

I saw your email, some weeks ago, and actually sent a response, but have not gotten feedback from you.

What's it with your cooling system, and the exhaust?

You can PM me, or drop the details here, so that I respond to them.

***08066643532****

@diportivo. You no serious o! Person wet knock door like say, he wanted to break it?

Kidnap!? You come still de hear, without Ransome payment?

Jagermeister. No wahala. Haven't you hear d of people that have experienced terrible things settling down to write a book?

One mustn't try to act the "movie" before penning down such experiences na.

Decided to do it that way, to a little bit move from my normal pattern of writing.

Thanks for the commendation part sha.

All na fun, with real life happening nio.

Just get the message there.

@InyinyaAgbaOku. Are you kidding or what? Have never heard of that before o, despite my plying that road.
Where excalty is it situated in Anambra please?

@cashrange660. Was really a nightmare. Everything was kinda like a movie,.how it all unfolded.

@abiolaladipo. This guy. You don catch me. I had wanted to do a writeup on that market.

But, kosi wahala.

Yeah, back to business.

The market is run by different varying groups.
The alayes, that prefer to sit down, and just come get some cash from people, when you buy parts, mist especially engine/transmission;

The excos of the market, who run it, and at the end of the day, share the proceeds they get from the collection of illegal taxes.

Then next you ha e the BARANDA people, that can also be somewhat classified as glorified "oloyes". They stand all day long on the road side, or shops, looking for clients. If you aren't lucky, as a novice, you meet any of them and tell them you want a particular part, instead of them telling you they don't have, they straightaway say, " I get am for my shop. make I go bring am". That way, you don enter one chance be that o!

So, in summary, the market us a cool place, with everything you want. I mean just everything you want. Igbo delicacies are just rampant over there.


My experiences has being;

1. I don't hand over parts to baranda guys to go look for parts for me. I tell them, Oga go bring the part.

2. Don't also give them money for parts search. Let there be parts, then money go show

3. Bought an engine/transmission, sometime ago, a trolley man said he'd deliver the parts to the taxi driver, and that he won't pay the alayes.

When he got there, na fight start oooooh. Alayes came from no where, and said to me, "Oga, efun wa #5000". I opened my mouth and said, " na by force? #5000 owo ki ni? They said, "owo loadi na". Their eyes were becoming bloody, I just had to negotiate 1500 with them.



PS: Nice and funny place; you got to learn how humans behave there.

INTRODUCTION

IT, I meant a car was almost stolen from me.
It was on an evening, I was driving a Toyota highlander, 2009, around 7/8(if you have ever heard of Ajao Estate before airport road), 7/8 junction is a familiar place, along that route.

I had waited patiently for the traffic gridlock around Osolo Way, to subside, but men, it was a "bumper to bumper" situation. This, opened the windows of "heaven" to the vendors, and traders on the road to make brisk business (or sales), that day. Whilst I was in the car cruising, decided to put on the radio, and tuned the frequency, to my favourite genre of music-jazz. Later on, switched it over to ROCK N ROLL. As the music was becoming "furious" with metallic instrumentations, I began "virtually playing my bass guitar", and nodding my head, alongside, with the AC blowing some cool air pass my "skinned" head. Not baldheaded ooo!

After about 30minutes on that non moving traffic, I negotiated my way through the the next street, off the main road. Please do pardon me guys, I had no idea what the name of the the street was.

Here's a landmark. If anyone has being to 7/8 Osolo way before, the gate entrance to the street is close to a Tantalizers fast food store. The gate stays open through out the day, till by almost 12:00am, when its closed and manned by the local vigilante group.

Driving straight down carefully through the street, with my ROCK N ROLL music playing violently at the background, I gradually approached the exit gate that would link me from that street, then back to CHIVITA avenue, close to canoe.

As I applied the brakes of the car to gradually halt my advance, before steering to the left side of the road, SUDDENLY, as I was still waiting for other cars to make right of way for me to move(we know in Lagos, no one waits for you to drive. You've got to take the initiative to drive ahead of other motorists with care though), a man was at the passenger side of the car, KNOCKING on the window, saying, "Oga, that place where you drop that person na wrong place". I stuttered, and said, " emmmm, o..g..a..., wetin you talk again"?. These time, my mind was just erratic. I couldn't figure out what he was trying to do, or say. Suffice to say that I had already dropped off a neighbor, along that street, and wind up the glasses of the car while I left.

This man, was not dressed properly, just the kind of casual dressings you'd see a normal policeman, or LASTMA official would appear in after the close of work in the evenings.

While he was still knocking on the glass, I instinctively flipped my left hand toward the master button, and locked all the doors. By the time I realised that there was already free right of way for me to move, I looked left/right, and accelerated the accelerator pedal straight to the floor, and zoomed off.

As I got to Eleganza, almost close to CHI avenue, I quickly turn off my ROCK N ROLL music. "e pain me sha, to turn off that music". But when you're faced with something beyond you, no one tells you to be calm.

I got home, sat down, and pondered over what has just happened. Initially, i thought he was just a LASTMA official, trying to do his work.

It was there and there I realised that it was an attempted car snatching exercise.

The Lord really sent His angels to guard oner me that day.




LESSONS LEARNT

1. Always drive your car, with the glasses wind up, and all doors locked, if you've got an AC system operational.

Not doing so exposes you to danger and nefarious activities from me. of the underworld.

2. These days, there are lots of impersonators of security agencies in Lagos, and elsewhere.
What they just do is to monitor your every day movements, then strike one day.

3. Try as much as possible to create alternative routes. What I mean is to plan your daily route. Have different roads you drive from and back home after close of work.

4. When approaching a traffic stop, or you're in traffic, always be observant of vendors/traders that lurk close to your car.

5. Do not engage in any form of communication whilst driving, or you're at a stop.
If you must do that, be extremely careful.

6. If I hadn't locked all the doors, what do you think would ha e happened? May be the guy that was conversing with me, has an accomplice standing somewhere a few meters away from the where I was sitting (driver side).

In my view, the ploy was to get me trapped in that conversation, then the accomplice suddenly comes from no where, and forcefully opens the driver side door, with a dangerous weapon, forcing me either to drive them to no man's land, or get out of the car, while they drive off.

These guys that commit these crimes have spent years simulating different scenarios on how to trap their victims. That's how kidnappers get their victims.


Just decided to pen down this experience to abreast car owners of what these people are capable of doing.


PS: You could share your own experiences for other persons to learn from.




Regards,
Joseph
08066643532(call/WhatsApp)

What sort if rotor disc did you purchase? New or used? If its used, did you ensure the discs thickness was according to spec?

Some Camry (ies) use brake drums at the rear. So take out time to ha e your mechanic look at the brake shoes, for wear, or make adjustments to them. If they're bad, replace them.

If you discover you have to pump twice, your brake master could be the culprit.

Open the hood, and look for traces of fluid skills around the brake reservoir(external leaks). If there aren't any, you might be having an internal master leakage.

Another important thing forgotten after brake pad/disc replacement is people don't do what we call BEDDING IN. You drive say, 80km/hr, on a free road, and gradually apply the new brakes. That helps the adhesive materials on the pads to properly bed in on to the discs.




Hope thus helps you some what.

I would suggest the following:

1. Revert the fan back to how it was before

2. Since the electrical on that car behaves improperly, after the direct fan connection, and only when the AC system is ON, thus suggests to me that is either the power line in which the fan was connected, is interfering with the current requirements of those accessories, etc.

The AC system adds much load on the engine, and this leads to more current draw from the electrical system.

My best bet is that the connections was improperly done, in such a way that he must have connected the fan's positive cable from the accessory relays/fuse.

I rule out gaskets problems from this

@gbolly707:

"I drove the car with the thermostat stuck open for a long time, i noticed the issue after the thermostat replacement.
i will change the radiator cap during the week and give the house a feedback."

A careful analysis of the statement above, would point me to having a second look at the installed thermostat like someone said here.

***Check it if it really is opening as it should.

***Is there enough airflow through the radiator system, and the condenser fins.
If both fins are clogged, you've ha e same issues.

***Have the radiator removed, and internally steam washed.
An internally clogged radiator, has a low cooling efficiency

***Take a look at the overflow reservoir tank piping that connects to the radiator system neck. If it is clogged or dirty, same thing happens.

PS: In my view, I don't think the problem is a top cylinder gasket issue.

Reason being, "you drove that car for a year, and nothing of such was experienced".

Nice writeup Sir!

I think all what you've discussed are some of the external causes.

But it would behoove you to note that internal oil leaks are somewhat masked by the externals, as you've highlighted.

*** If you've got a worn out valve stem/guides, and valves, you'd notice leaks too.

***piston rings not at advanced stage of wear and tear, would such leaks.

In some cases, its not visible, as the externals you've talked about, but you'd notice excessive oil shortages as time goes on.

INTRODUCTION

You returned from work, back home, to the warmth embrace of your wife(or wives) and children, only to realised that your planned outing with the family to the grocery store, has somewhat being delayed, or cut short by the car just refusing to start.

Turned the ignition switch ON, only to hear some "ka!!! sound, without any corresponding engine firing up.

What he does? He calls Mr Trump(well, his my ally though. If you hate him, you're part of those liberals too. I'm joking though), and say, " could you lend me your auxiliary battery (12V), so I could start my car?".

Trump replied, "hey, dude! I'm upstairs, coming right down to lend that " juice".

Trumps friends eventually gets the car stated up, ready for his outing with his family.

So, what did he do next?

He quickly removed one of the battery terminals from the borrowed battery running in his car, and swapped that with the car's original battery.

That way, he was able to kind of successfully take the family to the grocery that evening.

Thanks to my friend TRUMP though.

The story above, points to some of the practices car owners, and even technicians embark upon.

Some don't even see anything wrong with this practice.

They tell you, we've being doing this even before now, and nothing has happened.

Well, you may be right, but HAVE YOU EVER IMAGINED WHY FOR INSTANCE, YOUR ECU MODULE SUDDENLY FAILED, OR SOME COMPONENT WIRING HARNESSES MELTED?

It may not happen instantly, but the impacts of such a practice are astronomical.

They simply disconnect the battery terminals of the battery of a running engine, never knowing the terrible effects that causes.


WHAT HAPPENS WHEN BATTERY TERMINALS ARE REMOVED FROM A RUNNING ENGINE?


¶¶¶¶¶¶¶¶¶The car's electrical/electronic systems suffer from over voltage (voltage surge)¶¶¶¶¶¶¶¶

**melted wiring harnesses

**gradual degradation of wires

**failure of components

Here's the dynamics:

1. All electrical and electronic system's power lines are connected to the generator(alternator).

As the generator works, it recharges the 12volt battery, ensuring that the output designed currents required by accessories, and the car's ECU (brain), are kept functioning optimally.

In the eventuality that one or all of the terminals are disconnected and the battery swapped, high voltage in the range of 70-120volts are fed into the car's power line, which turn, exposes the connected wiring harnesses to degradation, wire stresses, and a potential component failure.

Remember, these systems operate under a certain high voltage design threshold, that when exceeded, would cause tremendous thermal stresses and increased temperature rise, that poses a safety risk to occupants, and a likely fire outbreak.

Integrated circuits, power circuit boards, etc are fried in the process, costing you a huge "hole" in your pocket.

2. Loss of the car's memory. These days, cars are programmed to operate based on certain thresholds of information shared between various CAN communication links.

The car's ECU, looks to compare values from what it sees from various sensors/solenoids, etc, to make informed decisions.

Any disruption in the information gathered and stored in on the ECU, would render the car's operability useless.

In some cases, ECU memory failures would cause poor fuel economy problems, and a no start problem, depending on the extend of damage.


HOW DO YOU CURB THIS PRACTICE AND ITS (-VE) IMPACTS?

Its that simple!

When you got a battery weak problem at hand, DON'T SWAP YOUR CAR'S BATTERY FOR ANYTHING. INSTEAD, GET A JUMP START CABLE WITH THE RATED CAPACITY TO JUMP START THE CAR.



CONCLUSION
It has almost become a tradition, for people to swap weak batteries for a known good donor battery. But the problem lies in that people are gradually causing exponential damage(s) to their car's electrical/electronic systems/components, as they do so.

Buying a jump start cable, or recharging the weak battery with a home 12volt battery charger, would revive the battery, and give it more "juice".

Get a jump start cable(just costs approximately, #2000), or a charger today. This saves you a whole lot of cost in replacement of expensive parts.






Regards,
Joseph
08066643531(WhatsApp/call)
DW Nig Ltd

Saw this vehicle yesterday, and hailed the move towards renewable energy as an alternatives to fossil fuels.

But from looking at the vehicle, it looks ugly, and the speed range allocated to it, in my view, is ridiculous.

What happens, for instance, if you're in a place, like southern Africa, where you have lots of wild animals, or even a vehicle breakbown?

It's only when all these(more charge stations, increased battery range, and cost reductions) are sorted out by the auto guys, that this "African made for vehicle" can be sustainable.

@nomaison. That's parts of the objectives of this Write-up.

But sometimes, you've got to bear in mind that, the more you argue with them(some of the mechanics, the more things gets to "almost a heatong debate", that leads to anger, etc.

In such situations, calm down, and buttress your points to him. He may appear resistant to your opinion, but when he meets a brick wall, or gets home, he'd say, " e b like say wetin you talk na true".


PS: Y some of them use that as a bargaining chip is because the time involved in an engine rebuild is what they're considering.

@nomaison. That's parts of the objectives of this Write-up.

But sometimes, you've got to bear in mind that, the more you argue with them(some of the mechanics, the more things gets to "almost a heatong debate", that leads to anger, etc.

In such situations, calm down, and buttress your points to him. He may appear resistant to your opinion, but when he meets a brick wall, or gets home, he'd say, " e b like say wetin you talk na true".

@Kashif. You've summarized it in a more succulent way.
Regards

@Egunmogagi. If you take a closer look at that top cylinder head, you'd realised it had some crack as a result of corrosion.

It was welded initially. That's the patch you see kinda black in colour.

@Egunmogagi. You're definitely right. Right parts and the skill set is the key. Thanks for the knout

INTRODUCTION

There's a perceived misconception about the pros and cons of engine rebuild/reconditioning, regarding engines.

I think this myth, has being further aggravated, by the experiences car owners might have had in the past.

Some of these car owners, have confided in us that they don't just see how a rebuilt engine could stand the test of time.

Our responses has always being, "if you've got the right parts, and skills set, no engine, no matter its configuration that cannot be overhauled the right way".

While some section of the population (car owners), consider it to be a waste of time, and maybe perhaps, the costs of such an endeavor, might, in economic terms, exceed cost of a purchased used engine, these set of owners prefer giving it a quick shot(we need a used or Tokunbo engine).

However, you've got those at the other side of the divide, who, considering the cost of buying a used engine, would prefer to have their engine completely rebuilt.

There are tremendous advantages to having engines rebuilt or reconditioned.

In my view, not just the business opportunity that opens to us, but I'd prefer a rebuilt of an existing engine, than have a used one, whose history, specifically the critical engine components, I am not prevy to know.

HERE ARE SOME FEW BENEFITS YOU'D STAND TO GAIN FROM AN ENGINE REBUILD.

1. Depending on the kind of overhauls or rebuild being executed, some, or all critical engine components such as the piston rings, crankshaft front and rear seals, top cylinder head gasket, water pump, oil pressure pump, etc, are replaced.

Some of these components have got scheduled maintenance schedules for their replacements.

This isn't applicable in an already used engine.
In some instances we've seen, some engines that were certified OK bases on external assessment, have being found to be a "harbinger" of problems, such as excessive exhaust smoke, and the likes.

Hey, there was a case we've got to return a used (Tokunbo) engine back to a vendor, to get a replacement, or make a refund of payments made. But I guess you all know its somewhat difficult, getting ones money back, after such purchase are made.

2. Rebuilt engines saves you the discomfort that might accompany one buying a used engine, whose internal engine components are questionable.

Just as I have mentioned above, some vendors, would never accept the refund of payments made after purchase.

These guys too, in my view, are gambling with their investment, if, I mean, some, go ahead and make refunds.

You'd be welcomed to the club of "come today, come tomorrow" "exercise".

That would crippled their business, and put them at a "terribly" perceives loss.

If you've done businesses in Ladipo, Lagos, Nigeria, you'd understand the narrative I have painted.


3. You get to derived almost the same benefits you'd get from a brand new engine.

Although, this would only be achievable in the longterm, if genuine rebuilt kits are used, and rebuilt engine procedures are followed wholly.

Used engines (or what Nigerians would call Tokunbo engines), have already being used. The internal engine's components have already undergone some degree of tear and wear.

So, wherever the engine was imported from, without the consumer, actually ascertaining the degree of wear and tear of such an engine, the end user standards the risks of maintenance cost overruns, in future.

4. You have the opportunity to assessed everything on the engine( cylinder heads for hairline cracks, engine bore diameters, piston ring tolerances, engine mounts, etc).

That isn't offered when you buy a used engine.
Its a 50/50 chance for you. Its like a gambling game, you know!?

DISADVANTAGE OF OVERHAULS

The only disadvantage I can possibly envisage is that its TIME DEPENDENT.
You've got to be patient for your technician to carry out the job.

Its not a rushing kind of job.

DO NOT RUSH WHO DIES THE JOB FOR YOU, AND DON'T TRY TO COME LECTURE THEM.

WHY SHOULD YOU REBUILD AN ENGINE?

1. More cheaper, and sustainable

2. Provides you the ability to track down on valuable data of newly installed parts.

SUSTAINABLE ENGINE REBUILDING

Trying to "delete" some of the "its impossible to rebuild an engine, files from their system" (mind), is kind of difficult.

But we hope some of the justifications above, would help with that formidable tasks.

1. Source for genuine rebuild engine kits.
These days, it's easy to get aftermarket parts from different companies in the market.

Be extremely careful when sourcing for parts, because these are the critical decider of how your car's engine would last.

Any use of fake parts, in the name of cheap
cost, would definitely bring you back to ground zero, where you'd never wanted to be.

2. Procedural skill set. Like we've reintegrated in the beginning of this write up, engine rebuild isn't the know-how of everyone. You've got technicians/professionals, that have spent years doing rebuilds.

Ensure you, or tour technician, gas got the basic skills in engine overhauls.

Cleanliness is the key to lasting rebuilds.
Use enough of solvents for engine components wash.

Petrol, as a solvent has a powerful degreasing ability, and can penetrate through micropores.
Lubricating oils, and overhauling repair tools should be free from dirty environments.

3. During or and after engine overhauls, ensure all critical engine components are thoroughly lubricated.

Insufficient lubrication is the surest way to accelerate engine wear and tear, during INITIAL START-UP after an overhaul.

4. Engines should be allowed to steam up, for say, 1-2hours. At least, this is how I achieve my engine rebuilds, by allowing the engine to run for such a duration.

Main benefit of this practice is to ensure the new engine parts replaced go through an static loading as its running.

5. Go for a test drive, after everything has being checked and confirmed OK.

PS:

***During start-up, you might notice the engine takes a longer time to start, while its being cranked.
Simple reason is that the engine is gradually/building up pressures that would be required to complete its various stages of strokes.

***Unnecessary sounds might come up, but gradually decreases as time goes on.

Limiting such noises can be achieved, by ensuring that there was proper attention given to the critical engine components, like the pistons rings, crankshaft journals, valve trains up the cylinder heads, and so on, by lubricating them during installation.




CONCLUSION
Just like I have stated, all engines can be overhauled(rebuilt), but not every engine can be rebuilt.

So, the next time you've got an engine problem, don't just weigh only the cost of buying a used engine, but this time around, include the cost of getting that engine rebuilt.

Some of the engines being showcased as used engines in the market, are rebuilt ones. But its being camouflaged in such a way it appears as Tokunbo to you.

Remember whatever makes you want to replace your engine with a used one, should be the justification for why your engine should (can) be rebuilt.

PSS:
We would be treating various engine rebuilt scenarios as time goes on on this thread.





CASE STUDY.
Below was a Previa that whose engine was rebuilt.

COMPLAINTS

** excessive greyish smoke from the tail pipe when driving

**engine makes clunking and rattling noise at every startup

**engine oil shortages below the L line.

DISCOVERIES

Engine disassembled, and discovered

** worn piston rings
** brittle front and rear crankshaft oil seals
** worn crankshaft journal bearings
**broken crankshaft position sensor
**clogged engine oil strainer
**one sided corroded top cylinder head
**elongated timing chain
.
.
.........infinity?? No.


THE FIX?

Got new parts for the above, asides the top cylinder that was replaced with a used one, after bench testing it for leaks, and straightness.


Regards,
Joseph
08066643532(call/WhatsApp)
DW Nig Ltd
Lagos

@kingreign. Ooops! Sorry for the embarrassment that has caused you.

Well, I thought that was what you wanted to "contacting parties" about na?

Give detailed I stances, then we talk here.

Hehehe! Me I like to try am o!

No embarrassment here na.

Run say wetin happen?

If other people de run, e go b d last thing we go do ooo, no matter wetin.

Na just normal dynamics you de display na.

You just don't have such background to talk on hybrid stuff here na.

You gotta have some kinda case scenarios, then we can get in to the discuss.

From your profile, you seemed to be just an entertainer, trying to get it going.

PS: I'm finally laying my responses to you at rest now.

"If you talk to a foolish man in his foolishness, one becomes exponentially foolish.

So, I won't want to be that foolish an entertainer.

Get all your facts posted here. That way, people see them, and we maybe!!! reply them.

Aunty please hurry up o, TRYGO de wait for me

Wasalam

@bobo65. Its not that your battery is dead, but there's a parasitic load somewhere on the car's electrical/electronic system, that's sapping the "juice" out of em.

Check if any of the interior accessory lights are on when you power down, and if you've got a malfunctioned door switch, etc
.

Sometimes, a short circuited fuse or relay would drain the battery of your car


Regards,
Joseph

@bobo65. Its not that your battery is dead, but there's a parasitic load somewhere on the car's electrical/electronic system, that's sapping the "juice" out of em.

Check if any of the interior accessory lights aren't on; and if you've got a malfunctioned door switch, etc

@Uzuz. Hehehe!

@nurey. You be Oga yourself o! Abeg ooo! you no be my boy oooo.

On hybrids, would come up with something probably this week again, after the one posted some few days/weeks ago.

@nurey. You be Oga yourself o! On hybrids, would cone up with something probably this week.

@nurey and kingreign. We no de fight o! There definitely isn't need to fight na. Are we competing or something?
Na just small thing your friend say him wan iron out, so I bring de wait for una.

loops! lest I forget the Explorer thing.
Try search am, read through, and just study am carefully, and y we did some of the things we did.

But if you have s regarding it, checkout some of the comments there, if they answer your ...

However, if you aren't satisfied, you could come over to our workshop. We'd walk you through what was done.

Another thing that's might help you grasp what we've done is to please try and research on what catalytic converter pore sizes are; exhaust back pressures, and an engines exit velocity after complete combustion.

If you can perfectly understand those, without, any already existing notion in your mind, you'd better appreciate what was done.

For now, taking me aback would be a waste of time.


Catch you later!

PS: People blow things out of proportions, without understanding the basics y certain things are done.

I still de wait for the "contacting people" blablabla o!

Hehehe!

Introduction
Following the recent flood disasters that has battered some states, and counties in the USA, lots of damages has being incurred by car owners, governments, and even insurance companies, ranging from heavily flooded vehicles, and apartments.

Following these, it also means that a lot of such vehicles, would be totalled by insurers.

Some of these vehicles, would be sold as refurbished used cars, without titles(flooded blablabla), while the rest would be dumped at some junkyards in the US.

But it would amaze you that, almost a chunk of those vehicles, would be procured by some dealers in the country, and sold as used (Tokunbo) cars.

How do you fare buying such vehicles?
Such kind of vehicles are what I call, "vectors". They carry immediate or potential problems, that would cost you almost a fortune.

Forget that some of the vehicles might be cheap.

Cost of fixing the intermittent problems you may have in the future, would outweigh the cheap cost eventually.

So, what do you do to avoid such vehicles, this EMBER month?

1. Be abreast with the news about the latest Irma and Harvey hurricanes, that has impacted on the auto industry or owners in the USA.

People over their would want to disposed off those vehicles at cheaper amounts.

Cars coming from Texas, and other flood probe states should be avoided by all means

2. Take a look at all the paper documents of the vehicle from the dealer. It should contain salvage titles, and the rest, if the vehicle has being submerged in a flood before, or during this latest hurricane.

If a dealer can't provide such details to you, run.

Don't get attracted by the cheap price.

3. Thoroughly inspect the car for signs of rust.

Here are some few tips I had used:

*lift up the carpets underneath the car. If underneath the flood is rusty, that car is a flooded one.

*If you immediately noticed the car has being heavily fragranced, suspect that the dealer is trying to conceal the terrible smell that cones from a flooded vehicle.

*Check underneath the car body. Excessive rust, tells you a whole lot.

*Open the doors, and take a look at the edges. If you see some form of rust, run.

*In some instances, you'd see the vehicle freshly painted.


So, as you prepare to buy that car from the USA this EMBER month, be on the watch out for flooded vehicles.

PS: A client asked if it was ideal to buy rusted car from the USA.

My response was, NO. If you go ahead and buy it, you got to bear all the future costs of repairs that would emerge, as a result of your decision.

Although, it still books down to what's the level of flood on the car?

If its 1/4 the wheel depth, I think it's cool. But beyond that to up to 60cm, I would discourage anyone from embarking on such an exploration.


Hope this small piece kinda help people make the right choices when ordering for vehicles at this current time, from the USA!


Regards,
Joseph
08066643532(call/WhatsApp)