₦airaland Forum

In my opinion, you don't need that frequent reminder thing. As long as its your thread, people would hook you up.

I don't believe those guys did scan that car. If they did, and replaced those parts still the same issue, then there's a problem. Get the car scanned again from a third party shop/mechanic. Most of the faults lots of cars have, aren't necessarily the replacements of parts. It might be an electrical circuit problem.




Dxta

Servicing the car, does not mean the check engine light(service engine soon)would go.

When you've got the check engine light on, it depicts a fault has being logged in the car's ECU (computer). You got to have it scanned for the trouble codes. That would be the place to start.

As regards the lights on display after the front shocks where replace, have you checked if your mechanic mistakenly stripped the abs/wheel speed sensor wires on the hub? Reason being that the sensor harness is routed through the shocks and bolted on it.

Check all those, and report to the house.



Regards,
Joseph
www.dxta.net.ng

We appreciate your feedback on your car's fix.


Regards,
Joseph

PS: Mind where you filled your tank. It would be wise, to, invest in maybe fuel conditioners quarterly, in order to get rid of future carbon buildup.

Yes, have heard of such a service even before the company came onboard. I currently have a company that I'm in partnership with, that I render such services to.



Regards,
Joseph
www.dxta.net.ng

Coolie: Replacing your catalytic converter with an iron mesh, won't solve any dammed thing. You would noticed that your fuel economy would be bad, and there'd be a terrible "buuuuuu" kind of noise coming from your exhaust system. I hope you didn't think the iron mesh stuck into the exhaust tailpipe was a permanent fix? Please, if you got the money, do remove that and replaced em.






Joseph

www.dxta.net.ng

Just like some fellows have said, have those misfiring problems sorted out first. But, from the noises you said you heard, and the fluctuating RPM, as you rev the car, my mind tells me you might be having a transmission issue already.

The transmission code, is responsible for hydraulically commanding fluid supply, to the various actuators that guarantees gear selections.

If you have any transmission specialist around you, the specific component can be replaced. But if they don't have the expertise, you maybe heading to replace that transmission system.

Can your mechanic recheck the fluid in the transmission again, with the filter?

Are their signs of leaks underneath the transmission body underneath? Shortage of fluid would trigger this code too.

Just ask him to get a sample out, and you observe if there are metal chippings in the fluid.

Am sorry to say, but as long as you keep driving that car like this, transmission system would get damaged.



Regards,
Joseph
08066643532(calls/WhatsApp)
www.dxta.net.ng


PS: That transmission system is worth hundreds of thousands of naira(about #500-600k).

No problems J! I'm trying to help.

@mrtesso. Yes, they're all the same, with different voltage capacities.

The hihy is bigger, and does the same functions any hybrid or electric vehicle's AC compressor does.



Regards
Joseph

INTRODUCTION

I was curious to see what was inside the compressor, and decided to use my electric filing machine to teardown the compressor, and show you guys, what its lime inside a burnout compressor.

Since the inception of hybrid vehicles in the automotive industry, almost all AC compressor assemblies fitted on hybrid cars, were belt driven. For instance, the first generation of Toyota Prius (1997-2003), were fitted with AC compressor assemblies, that were belt driven, and somewhat found in conventional vehicles.

But it was soon found out by Toyota, that using such compressor driven by the vehicle's accessories, wasn't measuring up with the sole purpose of such a vehicle, which was designed purposely for fuel economic reasons, and not for performance, so to say.

With this observations in mind, Toyota, in newer models of its lineup of hybrid cars, incorporated a more efficient compressor assembly. This time around, it was driven by an alternating current source, via an inverter/converter system.


So, today, I'm going to be talking about an electrically driven Prius AC compressor assembly I torn down, to have a glimpse what they comprised of, and why they fail.

What does the compressor comprises of?
Compressors commonly found on some hybrid and electric vehicles, are all driven NY alternating current source via an inverter assembly.

These compressors comprises of;
1. A stator. That's the casing or housing in which the electric motor resides(rotor).
See fig...

2. It has an inlet and exit port, just as is seen on conventional compressors.

3. It has an orange high voltage wire harness attached to it, from the inverter/converter assembly.

4. It uses a special kind of compressor oil.
Conventional cars uses ND8, while hybrid cars uses ND11(at least for Toyota brands).


WHY DO THESE COMPRESSORS FAIL?
The failure rates of these compressors, are low, compared to its counterparts. The reasons being that the materials compositions of the electric motors(windings, and insulations), have being improved, over the years.

BELOW ARE SOME OF THE REASONS THEY FAIL:
1. Use of substandard compressor oil. The use of wrong specifications of compressor oil, like ND8, would damage the compressor.

Here's how it does that: ND8 oil, has got no insulating properties in it; and as such, when used, it tends to compromise the insulations on the windings of the electric motors, thereby shorting the windings, resulting into what we call BURNOUTS. See figures below.

Using the right compressor oil (ND11), acts as a cooling and lubricating agents within the stator of the compressor.

2. Failing hybrid battery. Undersupplying the compressor motors with such voltages, would stress the winding insulations, and cause burnouts. This can be compared to what happens, for instance, when you turn on your refrigerator, if the power supply is less than the rated voltage. As long as the compressor of the refrigerator is exposed to such a low voltage situation for a long time, the compressor motor would burnout.

So, to protect the compressor, do not put on the AC system while the hybrid battery is not fully charged.

3. Cross contamination. Using the same recharge hose that has being used on a car that requires an ND8, would in the long run, cause a hybrid system AC compressor to fail. So, if you intend to recharge your hybrid compressor system, do not use or share the same hose with applications meant for conventional compressors.

4. Blocked condenser, or tubing. Blockage can always occur, if a condenser, or a tubing is blocked as a result of poorly done installations, or failed condenser.

HOW DO YOU KNOW THE COMPRESSOR IS FAULTY?
1. Suddenly, the AC system keeps blowing hot air, when turned on.

2. Intermittently works, when the system is recharged with gas

3. Sometimes, your hybrid battery would almost totally drain, because in rare occasions, the electric motor winding insulations has shorted out.


HOW DO YOU GET HYBRID SYSTEM SPECIFIC COMPRESSOR OIL?
You can get the oil, from any reputable stores online, or offline.

WHAT HAPPENS IF YOU ALREADY HAVE A DIFFERENT COMPRESSOR OIL APART FROM THE RECOMMENDED?

Ensure you get the entire AC system flushed of all the contaminants, and recharge with new gas and oil.



CONCLUSION
The costs of replacing a hybrid vehicle's compressor is tremendously much. It could rip a hole in your financial pocket.

Using the right compressor oil, and observing tail signs of potential failure, would narrow down what faults needs to be tackled.







Regards,
Joseph (calls/WhatsApp)
DW Nig Ltd
Isolo, Lagos
www.dxta.net.ng

Your throttle assembly may have being stuck with carbon buildup. Have it checked by a mechanic.

In some instances, it could be debris stuck in between the butterfly plate, preventing the plate from flipping when required. Remove the air filter subassembly attached to the throttle assembly, and check.

Are you sure there isn't anything sticking on the accelerator pedal, preventing it from moving?

If all that has being checked, and they are OK, have the throttle assembly replaced. It may have being corroded internally.


From all indications, this is not an electricians sphere of duty.

Just carry out those tests, and let us know what you find.

Regards,
Joseph
www.dxta.net.ng

@vickiej: It would cost you close to $1600. You do the math. That's excluding tax, and all that.


You can order from eBay, just like you order and buy things online. You got to register there, and make your purchase.

Alternatively, if you've got contacts over there, that would be great.

Do you intend to keep this car for more than 10years? If you do, then the new might be the best option. But if you intend to use it for just some few years, then maybe, a used one might help.

You also ha e reputable places in Lagos, like Ladipo, where you can get one.

But! you got to be sure of the credibility of the seller.


Here's my site:

www.dxta.net.ng

@moskylatata: Appreciate your comments Sir!
Expecting to hear from you soonest.

@guardiola: Just in case you need competent hands to help, contact us pls.

This thread is basically trying to get info from you guys, about what you have done to your car today, since you bought it either new, or used.

How many tines ha e you visited a repair facility?

At what mileage were you there to fix a problem?

Please when filing your replies, do state the model year and type of car.

This would help other people here.

Here's an example.

2006 Camry bought used, in 2016; has 174,000mi on it.
Had no issues ever since.
Only took the car to a car shop to ha e the wheels rotated and aligned.




Thanks

INTRODUCTION
With the seemingly unending scarcity of fuel products this holiday, a lot of car owners, would be faced with the choice of either queuing at filing stations to get fuel(petrol or diesel) for their various applications, or to resort to black markets.

But the costs of resorted to black markets, have over the years, proven to be a bitter pill to swallow, than queing in filing stations to get fuel.

Even some of the filing stations aren't left out of the "adulteration and contamination" businesses either.

Some, in a bit to make "maximum" profits, at the expense of the masses, have actually being the demand hubs for some of the contaminated fuel supplies.

ANY NEGATIVE IMPACTS ON CARS?
Yeah, definitely. Its at this time of the year, that vehicles breakdown on the roads, and by the new year, you're faces with huge costs of repairs. That, in itself, could cause some people to sale their cars at frustrating prices.

1. Contaminated fuels, especially petrol, which majority of car owners use, has a specified volatility before the combustion process in an engine occurs.

With people being desperate right now to get fuel from all manner of places, the possibility of introducing fuel that has being adulterated is very high.

Fuels like these, could cause engine knock problems, which would lead to engine replacement.

In some minor instance, a car's fuel injector system, and appurtenances could be affected by wrong fuel usage.

Its at tines like this, that injectors are fouled with carbon deposits, that hampers your car's operability.

HOW TO MINIMISE THESE RISKS
In my opinion, you could help cushion in the effects adulterated fuels might have on your car, as follows:

1. Get a quality fuel treatment. Some of these fuel treatments, despite the blablabla said about them by people, they do work positively.

Such cleaners has helped in displacing contaminants like water, and in some cases kerosene, from petrol.

When buying such fuel treatments, please do ensure you read and understand the instructions before using em. If your car has got a catalytic converter, be mindful of fuel treatments that have got SULPHUR, as one of their chemical constituents. They are going to clog your car's catalytic converters with time.

2. Replace previous fuels purchased. Because of the uncertainty of the quality of fuels bought during this season, it would be a good idea, to replace the entire contents from the tank, if possible.

This can only be achieved, if there's a certainty that fuels to be purchased after the previous one has being exhausted, would come from a trusted and reputable source.

3. If possible, get the entire fuel system flushed of the old fuel in your fuel tank. That goes along way helping to reduce the risks of fuel related problems in future.

Remove all injectors, fuel pump, and even the fuel tank, if your car's fuel system isn't so complicated. At this point, you might have lots of gunk in the tank and appurtenances that needs cleaning up.


PS: Check the following before embarking on your holiday trip:

1. Spare tyres are properly inflated. Don't just assumed they are in good conditions.

2. Inspect your brake pads, and the linings(brake shoes). Depending on the applications of braking tour car uses, the brake shoes are covered by the rear brake drums.

3. Check all fluids. Transmission, brake fluids, power steering, and most importantly, engine oil.

4. Test run all electrical gadgets, horns, headlights so you don't get stranded on the high ways.
Ensure they are all working.




With these few info, I wish you guys a safe holiday trip to your destinations.

Happy holiday, and new things ahead in 2018.





Regards,
Igono Joseph Okeme
DW Nig Ltd
Lagos, Nigeria
08066643532(call/WhatsApp)

@jossytech. Are you kidding me?
You accelerates that car to the max of the speedo abi?
Did you feel any stability issues?

python1: How was the feel like? Stability wise.
Was there any "floating" feeling as insinuated by people?

SPEED!!! We've heard lots of people say speed kills. But yet, some folks keep speeding even above a car's speed intervals on the dashboards.

Some have even said speeding above 100km/hr, is getting into the REDLINE region.

But considering that German made cars have being known to be designed for PERFORMANCE, and not for economy (you might disagree), owners of these cars, have being known to accelerate and drove such brands as a sport!

According to them, German cars are stable under such a tremendous speed, than Asian made cars.

So, what do you've to say?

What's the speed limit, you've ever run, and on what brand?


Regards
Joseph

@timifakay: Thanks for the reminder. That's being done now.
@ricki: You saying you bought that valve cover seal gasket for #25k, or ?
Well, not that an easy tasks, if you own a V configured engine.

@deprofessional: When the catalytic converter(s) is(are) stolen, tour car becomes more of a polluter of the environment, and all that. Remember, that translates into increased fuel consumption (poor fuel economy, in this case).

The other effect you'd have, is some noticeable rise in tour car's noise levels, beyond the set decibels.

As regards if another one can be improvised in its place, sure, that can be done.

What you just need to factor into the while thing, is to ensure the dimensions of any replaced one, matches the tailpipes, and you're done.



Regards,
Joseph
DW Nig Ltd

INTRODUCTION
You hurriedly got in to your car, ready to drive to work, and suddenly you kinda notice that warning lights have kit up on your instrument cluster, and you're like, "thus wasn't there yesterday, so, how on hell did all these lights lit up in the cluster today"?

You got the car scanned with your Bluetooth scan tool, and discovered, you've got a P0302 code logged in the ECU (car's computer).

What should you do next?

Well, helping you answer that question, would be ....But do realised that machines, even human beings, are bound to fail some day. They're frail.

So, that shouldn't be surprising to you.
But if you've being up and doing as regards your car's scheduled maintenance, some of those failures car's experience Daiky, and the attendant financial drains that cone with fixing them, would have being abated.

Today, I'd be tackling a rare instance where engine oil spills having its way through the spark plugs ports have caused issues like the scenario enumerated in the introductory paragraph.

It should be noted that asides, engine oil intrusions into the spark plug ports, other known causes of such code (P03002), are ignition, mechanical, fuel, and even electrical systems related.

For instance, fouled spark plugs, or a clogged injector system, would definitely set up such codes.

WHAT ARE THE SOURCE(S) OF SUCH OIL SPILLS?
Most engine oil spills into the spark plugs ports, are as a result of a failed top cylinder head valve cover gasket (seal).

These gaskets, are susceptible to heat, and aging. So, if your car's mileage is in the hundreds of thousands, and its having problems with oil shortages, you've got to suspect the valve cover gasket is brittle already. This would fail to provide the sealing capability it was intended.


SYMPTOMS OF A FAILED VALVE COVER GASKET

1.Engine oil spills are everywhere in the engine's compartment, especially the top cylinder area.

2. Engine performance and driveability us affected. In some severe cases we've seen, you lose some kind if power, when you drive the car. It bugs down, as you try to accelerate.

3. Various warning lights get lit up on the instrument cluster.
Engine oil getting into the spark plugs ports, would hamper one of the combustion strokes(spark)on a particular or all cylinders.

This, would shortened the lifespan of the spark plug coils, if your car is equipped with a coil on pack (COP) system.

The reason for the potential ignition system coil reduced lifespan is that the ECU ignition system drive, tries as much as possible, innumerable times to provide the sparks needed for the completion of the combustion cycles, but it's just unable to cope with the load. So, it then fails.


HOW TO PREVENT THIS FROM HAPPENING
Replace the top cylinder head valve cover gasket (seals), when there's sign of a leak, around the top cylinder.
Do not attempt to reuse the valve cover seal, by applying RTV gasket sealer. That would only be a short term fix.

PS: Do not use old gasket seal.
Use only OEM specified gasket seals


CONCLUSION
There isn't a one peg fits all instance in situations like these.

Oil leaks, especially around the top cylinder head area, shouldn't be taken for granted. They could wreck havoc, and may have you stranded somewhere, you've never expected.

Always have the engine compartment of your car, detailed. Thus would unmask any oil leaks, that you might not be seeing at the moment.

Replacing the valve cover seals, especially on V engine configurations, isn't that easy, as their I4 cylinder counterpart, but it's a worthwhile investment.




CASE STUDY

Vehicle model/year: Rav4; 2008
Mileage on "her"!: 156,940mi
Transmission system: Automatic
Engine configuration: 4cylinder, with VVTi; 2AZ-FE


Complaints from customer:

¶Excess fuel consumption
¶Warning lights on the dashboard (Check engine, Slip indicator, ABS)
¶Loss of power. The engine doesn't just give a proportional response to the throttle.


The FIX!

¶Get the car scanned first before doing anything.
Retrieve the codes, and read through the freeze frame data, to give you a clue, when the fault occurred, and under what parameters(You could look at the engine temperature, intake air temperature, and trim fuel values), to come to some sort of conclusions.

¶We already got a P0302 code retrieved from the car's ECU (computer system).
Here, we already know that the problem was coming from only a particular cylinder (and that was cylinder number 2).

A P0302 code, sets when a car's ECU (or computer) system, detects engine misfires, as a result of any of the following reasons mentioned below:

a) faulty injector system
b) faulty ignition system
c)faulty mechanical related problems vis-à-vis an above normal cylinder bore diameter.

But how do you know the actual problem the code was indicating was?

This was what we did. Prior to this time, we've worked on the car's suspension system (all engine mounts and front and rear shocks have being replaced), and there wasn't such problems, when the customer brought in the car.

¶Started the engine, and unplugged all the fuel injectors and ignition system coils, one after the other, to test how the engine reacts under such conditions, and even interchanged the ignition coils. There wasn't any improvement.

¶Decided to remove the spark plugs one after the other, to inspect them visually.

To our surprised, the spark plug on number 2cylibder, was submerged in engine oil, probably coming from the valve cover gasket.

That was where the problem was coming from.
It would behoove you to note that all the other spark plugs, had little spills on their threaded extensions. But that wasn't a problem, for the engine as at the time.

¶Cleaned the spark plugs, and tightened then back.

Please be absolute careful when tightening the spark plugs back in. If done wrongly, the ceramic insulator (that whitish long rod), could get broken in the cylinder head plug port. That would be hell to remove.

¶Replaced the old, brittle valve cover gasket, with an OEM one.
In some instances, I don't apply RTV seals on the purchased gasket. If you aren't comfortable with that, you lightly apply on the sides of the gasket(s), before covering em up.

¶Allowed it to set for say, 5-10min, before starting the car.

¶Erase all stored codes, and do a drive cycle test, to simulate the parameters under which the code(or fault) was indicated earlier on by the customer.

¶Hand over the car to the customer after confirmation of job done, and you're DONE fixing it!

DISCLAIMER
If you aren't comfortable working on systems like these, please do visit your dealer for consultations.
Failure to follow the procedures as enumerated above, is at your own risk. I am not responsible for any eventualities, if not done well.






Regards,
Igono Joseph Okeme
DW Nig Ltd
oigonojoseph@yahoo.com/info@dxta.net.ng
08066643532(calls/WhatsApp)
Twitter: @dw_Nig
Facebook page:
https://www.facebook.com/Dexterwise-DW-Nig-Ltd-767933589982123/

1.0 INTRODUCTION
Last time, we did talked about FAILURE OF INVERTER ASSEMBLIES, AND THE RISKS ACCOMPANYING SUCH A FAILURE.

Today, our focus would be on INVERTER/CONVERTER ASSEMBLY PUMPS.

So, let's get started in earnest.

Just in case, you missed out on the last episode, here's the link:

https://www.nairaland.com/4136773/toyota-hybrid-vehicle-maintenance

1.1 WHATS THAT PUMP, AND WHATS ITS DYNAMICS

An inverter/converter assembly pump, is a small electrically powered device, that works in tandem with the inverter assembly system. Its hot its plastic impellers enclosed in a black, small plastic housing. It would behoove you to note that this pump, isn't mechanically run, just like your conventional car, or like the belt driven pumps you've got in the first generation Prius(2001) cars, or on some 2005-2008, Prius.

The inverter pump, is powered by your car's auxiliary battery (12volt, maybe 35Ahr). These batteries are quite different from what you've got stocked in a conventional car.

The pump basically functions as a normal standard pump. Here, I meant just like the pump characteristics in your homes' submersible pumps, or a conventional mechanically driven car pump, it pumps Toyota's long life coolants through the inverter systems network of electronic components embedded in the inverter.

Inverters operate under very extreme temperatures, when they're performing their functions: inverts the DC voltage output from the hybrid battery, in such a way that the requirements of all the hybrid systems, such as the transmission, AC system, and the electric motors, MG1 and MG2, are operating at acceptable thresholds.

These pumps, have got stators, with copper windings, on them.

If you want to have a feel of how hot the system is, lest take for instance, your electronic gadgets, such as laptops, phones, and even your TV sets, are always very hot, as constant voltages and currents, try to feed all the electronic components embedded on the PCBS (power circuit boards). These devices, are sometimes, air cooled, and in the case of the inverter assembly system, it is water(coolant) cooled.

The circulation of the coolants through the inverter cooling system circuitry, also cools the transmission system of the car. They're in fact, all looped(linked) together.

But note that you've the transmission system fluid (Toyota's WS), totally secluded from the inverter coolant compartment, so they don't stand the chance if mixing up.

1.3 WHAT ACTUALLY KILLS THAT PUMP?
You might have experienced a gradual, or sudden pump (whether a submersible in-house one, or in tour conventional car), suddenly fails, or begins to fail.

The following, are some of the causes of failures on all pumps, including the inverter pump.

¶Age.
An aging inverter assembly pump would definitely have it's revolution(RPM) reduced to let's say, up to 1/2, its assigned speed of revolution. Let's assumed the standard RPM for a known good pump is 3284rpm, and over the years, with it's usage, the rate of revolution would definitely be halved, or even fail.

The plastic impellers on the pumps would suddenly fail, and not even deliver the volume and pressure of fluid required to cool the inverter, and the transmission system.

¶Expired inverter assembly coolants.
Lits of folks, usually assumed fluids, not just the transmission fluids, radiator coolant, but also the inverter assembly coolants, do not expire.

Coolants are meat to have a higher boiling points, than water. Water, sure, has a good thermal characteristics, that would be compromised, when the operating temperature of a water cooled system, exceeds a certain T°C(more than 100°C), water's thermal characteristics, gets compromised.

It is at this stage, that coolants, because of the presence of additives, such, ethyl glycol, with the addition of other proprietary additives, are used to suppress the "voltage spikes" (I mean, excess temperature, rather), in such a system.

As time goes on, say, a maximum of 2/3years, the additives in coolants breakdown, and firm what we calk, sludge, etc, which are the prime suspects in the clogging and corrosion radiators/inverter assembly

¶Electrical malfunctions. Since the pump is powered by the 12volts battery, when there are issues such as open/short circuits in the circuitry if the battery power feed to the inverter pump, the pump gradually, or instantly KAPUTS, and ceases to function.

From our experiences, we've noticed pumps fail, due to shorting of the internal windings.

¶Production plant mistakes. I know some people might not agree with me on this, but it sure happens that, despite the AI(artificial intelligence) blablabla employed in some production facilities, human errors are still bound to happen. If don't agree to this, what would you say, could be the cause of the recent reported cases if the Samsung battery fires? Would you say, it didn't happen, or what? Ask your friend, Google, you've have thousands of studies on production failure of products newly launched all over the world.

With this, it shouldn't surprise you that a 14year old Prius/Highlander/Camry/Nissan leaf, etc, would definitely have its inverter pump fail, some day, because of a known defect.

For instance, in the Prius, 2005, or so, we've got lots of issues with inverter pump failures. The real cause of such failures, gas being reported by Toyota, to be a sudden shorting of the windings on the stator. That caused the pumps to short, and stop working.

Such pumps, have being upgraded to something better.

1.4 SIGNS A FAILING OR FAILED INVERTER PUMP

¶Overheating surfaces. As you drive a few kilometers, you'd realize the temperature icon(thermometer) pop up the MFD(multifunction display).

In such a situation as this, the best bet for you, is to stop the car, if you were driving, and allow it to cool down, before continuing the journey. I mean, seeking for diagnostic help.

¶Inverter damage. You'd suddenly notice the operations of the car's hybrid system, perform erratically.

The inverter system, because of it's quest to protect itself, and the hybrid system, would shut off the system, through the AM2 fuse on the bonnet area.

When you persistently use the car with a inverter pump failure, you stand the risk of destroying the car.

The inverter assembly, is like the car's processor. It processes billions of bites of information per seconds.

1.5 CHECKING IF YOUR INVERTER PUMP IS WORKING.

As an owner, or potential owner of a hybrid vehicle, you should be able to carry out the following simple test on your inverter system. This simple test, would enable you know if the car's inverter pump, is functional, or not.

¶Open the inverter coolant reservoir tank cover

¶Go and READY the car

¶Observe for some kind of turbulence or movement of the coolant.

Results:
∆If the coolant is moving, the pump us working OK.
But remember, this pump turbulence isn't a perfect conclusion. You've got to look at the RPM of the pump, and compare it to a standard.

∆If there is no turbulence, it means the pump has failed (shorted out, or open circuited).

1.5 HOW TO REPLACE THE PUMP.

Disclaimer:
I am not responsible for any damage or injury that you might incur, by not performing the replacement, following Toyota's recommended procedure(s).

If you're not comfortable working around high voltage system, please, do not attempt to performed this service. It's better you pay some few bucks to a friend, or take the car to a dealership, to have it replaced.

This is HOW!
¶get the service plug removed, including the 12volts battery

¶remove the inverter coolant hose plumbings, and trap the existing inverter coolants. You could actually use it later, after replacement of the pump.

¶Access the 10mm bolts on the pump, and loosened them.
Its usually sometimes difficult to access the pump, because if the inverter.

Here's a trick: Remove the front and side 12mm/14mm bolts holding the inverter assembly down, and then lift the inverter gradually upward. That would give you more space to remove the pump.

¶After replacing pump, ensure the inverter system is bled of pockets of air bubbles trapped in the system. This would go along way in ensuring the pump operates at a high efficiency.

The bleeding procedures on this pump, is quite tricky.

You can use your Toyota scan tool to command the system(pump), or so the bleeding, alternatively. That, I can't disclose here.

NB: Bleeding the system only occurs after the inverter coolant has being introduced into the inverter assembly coolant reservoir.


1.6 CONCLUSION
Nothing in this "sweet world $, would last forever; and so its the various components in your car. But it would be if immense help, to have an idea about how these systems, and components operates, and what to look out for, and implement, in such a system, before they eventually fail.





PS:I intend to update this thread, as time goes on.




Regards,
Igono Joseph Okeme
DW Nig Ltd
08066643532
Info @dxta.net.ng/oigonojoseph@yahoo.com
Lagos, Nigeria.

@ikenna. Pls I have a ? to ask. Let's assume, I have a thread on say, car racing that I have written for say, since September, 2011, and pasted here.

After modifications of the thread, let's say, November, 2017, how do you make that particular thread to appear on the cartalk section as new updated info? Do you just start another thread, or what?



Regards,

What's the mileage on the car?
Meanwhile, that noise you're experiencing its what I call suspension noise.
Check the following:

** ball joints, tierod (inner and the outer joints for play); the CVT driveshafts, for insufficient lubrication ( I mean grease in the shafts boot); stabilizer linkages and stabilizer bar bushings(rubber) would cause such noise too.

Inspect the lower arm bushings for fractures. If they show physical signs of defects, replace them.

Finally, you can have the shock absorber tower pads inspected for a bad bushings also.

If there's also an above spec tyre width size, you'd have such issues, as you turn the car.



Regards

@Chukel. I think you're kinda of right. We've got lots of 2Az engines around, and I think the problems with those we've worked on, and what we've seen, emanates from maintenance, and.....
People saying the 2Az isn't reliable, well, in my view, if you maintain it as at when due, its gonna serve you.

Have got clients with '08 Camry, Previa, rav4, etc, with 2Az engines. No noise, they're kicking perfectly.


PS: Even if there were problems with any batch of production 2az-fe engines, it isn't enough for it to be condemned over here. That's y Toyota keeps modifying such engine, and reusing them.

@Alajiki. I have read through almost all the comments here, and here's what I'd have to say:

1. You said the engine was replaced with a new one(used), and you noticed it wasn't running smoothly.

In my view, what do you mean by smoothly? Do you mean the engine sound was like a BUUUUUUU, noise, or it was rattling, and/or vibrating? You've got to ask your mechanic to try and identity what sort of "not smooth" noise you're talking.

There are awhile lot of noises that could emanate from an engine. The onus lies with your mechanic to be able to identify what sort of noise.

If its a rattling, or clunking kind of noise coming from the valve train location, I'd be suspecting the valve train components must have undergone tremendous wear and tear, due to poor maintenance, and usage, from the country of origin.

It would be behoove you to note that there are several locations where engines are reconditioned in Ladipo. They replace engine critical parts with substandard, and pressure wash the engine. You, as a buyer, won't know. That's y its important you go with a professional, to check out the engines you want.

HERE'S THE KILL!
***¶¶¶¶¶¶¶¶¶¶If you drove that car after engine installation, and noticed that it wasn't smooth, the only problem I think would suffice from the misalignment of the 2Nos gears located in the sump. If those two gears are out of timing with the engine, when you start up the engine, and even drive it, you'd feel a terrible kind if vibration, and loss of power.

In some applications, the noise would be so EXPONENTIAL when you revved the engine. It would sound as if there a huge exhaust leak on the tailpipe.

****Get the mechanic asses the engine, and find out if it has being rebuilt before it was sold to you guys. That way, my explanations above would count.¶¶¶¶¶¶¶¶¶¶

From the photos you posted here about whether it was a 2Az/1Az engine, I would believe its a 2Az engine, if the inscriptions on the block hasn't being tempered with.

So in summary, your mechanic holds the key to giving us a feedback into all the ?ss surrounding that engine.

1.He should check and see if the engine is a refurbished one, and,
2. If the 2Az inscription has being tempered with. If there isn't any tempering, the problem with the engine could be from what I have enumerated above
3.He should determine what you meant by "not running smoothly".


Hope this helps you sort out that car!



Regards,
Joseph
08066634532(call/WhatsApp)

Hi, ricmayak1: We're just trying our best.

@Ricmayak1: Well, we're trying to do our best though.

1.0 INTRODUCTION:
This thread, is focused on discussing common flash points prevalent in Toyota lineup of hybrid synergy drive systems, and proffer some solutions to them.

We'd discuss every aspect of the Toyota hybrid system, starting from the bonnet (engine side), down to the body, electrical/electronics, brakes, suspensions, etc.

It should be noted that this thread is not only limited to Toyota's brand of hybrid vehicles. but also, the hybrid lineups of Honda, Ford, Nissan, and others.

Hybrid vehicles, most especially the Toyota brands, are somewhat more complex than other auto car makers, simply because of the complexities involved in the hybrid system algorithms.

Amongst the hybrid system in Toyota's lineups of highlanders, and Lexus crossovers, its being observed, and also from our personal experiences, that the INVERTER/CONTROLLER ASSEMBLIES, and the BRAKE ACTUATOR ASSEMBLY have being known to fail, during electrical components performing above their set thresholds.

In this article, we're going to limit these problems, not only peculiar to the Highlanders/RX 400h, but also to Prius cars(but not prevalent), to inverter failures.

1.1 WHY DO INVERTER/CONVERTER ASSEMBLIES FAIL?
So, what does the inverter system does in these vehicles?

First and foremost, the inverter assembly, comprises of various ICs, electronic components, such as resistors, transistors, zener diodes, etc. It houses al of these components, in a rectangular like structure.

It's positioned at the driver side of the hood, when you open the hood(bonnet). It kind of looks like a conventional battery.

The inverter basically amplifies the DC voltage from the hybrid battery's nominal voltage of 384V, to something within the range of 600V.

This inverted voltage, is further fed to the three phase electric motors located in the eCVT transmission system, and to the electric AC compressor system. Some of this voltage is also converted and fed to the auxiliary battery through one of the motors, and through regenerative braking(I.e, when you are gradually coming to a stop, the kinetic energy fro. the wheels, are converted in to some form of energy, and fed back to the hybrid battery).

1.2 WHAT ARE THE COMMON PROBLEMS YOU MIGHT FACE WITH YOUR INVERTER?
I'm not trying to create panic in to your mind, but be less assured that, if you own a highlander 2006-2010; and RX 400h 2006-2008, and the vehicle has passed Toyota's warranty on replacement of vital hybrid system components (hybrid battery, inverter assembly, battery ecu, and hybrid ecu), which from my research, are warranted 100,000-150,000mi/10years, and the vehicle was imported into the country after that, you've got to understand that the cost of replacements of any of those parts would be borne by you alone. Not really encouraging, isn't it? Well, not really.

1. Coolant leaks at the interface of the inverter assembly.

SYMPTOM: You'd notice the pinkish colour of the inverter coolants spills at the edges of the inverter; and an overheated Inverter assembly, as a result of coolant leaks from the Inverter coolant reservoir.

SOLUTION: The whole inverter assembly has to be replaced, and would cost you, tens of thousands of naira(not dollars). This is for the price of a used one. Newer Toyota OEM are in the thousands of dollars. That could wreck your pockets.

2. Inverter assembly overheating. This, in some cases, the inverter isn't the culprit (ole) here, but the inverter water pump could/or have failed.

SYMPTOMS:
A thermometer symbol blinks, and finally shows on the MFD (for a Prius, etc); vehicle might not be able to move, and would finally come to a halt.

SOLUTION:
Replace the inverter water pump, and see if that solves the problem. Mind you, if its the inverter, there would be an inverter related trouble code(s) that would be logged in the ECU

3. Others.
In some cases, we've seen instances where a hybrid vehicle, suddenly just won't start.
If you're faced with such problems, try as much as possible, to isolate other Hybrud related components before concluding it is a failed inverter assembly.

SOLUTION:
Test hybrid battery nominal voltages, capacity, and the auxiliary battery (12volts), if there isn't power feeding the instrument panel for the READY light to come on.
After confirming all the above, replace the inverter assembly for good.


1.3 CONCLUSION
The inverter of your hybrid vehicle, is the processor, or CPU, that processes all that high voltage DC from the hybrid battery, amplifies, and distributes it to the various hybrid systems that requires them, according to demand.

They are very critical to the operations of a hybrid vehicle, and could fail at anything, in some cases, with warning signs as enumerated in the article.

The cost of replacement is almost near the price of a new Toyota hybrid battery, in the USA.


PS:
Don't use ordinary water, or non Toyota based coolants. Only use Toyota super long life coolants in the inverter. Reasons being that, Toyota's coolants, are specially blended to take care of the extreme heat generated in the inverter, that other coolants that aren't meant for hybrid vehicle applications.



Regards,
Igono Joseph Okeme
DW Nig Ltd
oigonojoseph@yahoo.com
info@dxta.net.ng
https://www.facebook.com/Dexterwise-DW-Nig-Ltd-767933589982123/
08066643532