Porsche piwis tester 2 is the newest porsche car diagnostic/programmer equipment. It can diagnostic and programmer the newest porsche car including

Cayenne and Panamera which the old tool Porsche piwis tester 1 can not do. There is no 90 days time limited for the software system. It can be installed

on Panasonic CF31, CF30 and DELL E5430.



The latest Porsche vehicle can only be diagnosed by Porsche piwis 2. It will replace kts 520. As the latest Porsche diagnosing equipment, it is with

diagnosing and programming function for old and new vehicles. Every set of tool is carefully tested before shipment. We offer one year free software

updating and hardware maintenance, as well as long term technical support. New arrival Porsche piwis tester 2 with DELL E5430, Porsche Piwis Tester II

with Panasonic CF30 and Porsche PIWIS Tester KTS520 for sale at Plusobd online store.



The Porsche PIWIS is the OEM diagnostic tool for the aftermarket garage. Dealer Level diagnostics for your garage is the best way to maximise your

ability to fix every vehicle that enters your workshop. Most aftermarket scan tools only allow you to get so far with the job then you find it will have to

be taken to the Main dealer.



PIWIS is the latest special diagnostic equipment of the Porsche Company which is adopted in the Porsche workshop so you will have full dealer

functionality. It can read codes, clear codes, read ECU info, read data stream for all type of Porsche vehicles whether it’s a Cayenne, 911 or Boxster.



The greatest advantages of the PIWIS is that you will be able to do jobs as such as Key coding, Service light resets, Programme new parts including

Ecu’s and Modules or even Reprogramming the vehicles existing modules. This can only be achieved using the Porsche PIWIS no aftermarket scan

tool will ever have this ability.

Dear sir Sienna,
i only hope this thread is still alive as i need ur assistance with urgency, Please forgive my long writing, and try ur best to assist.

VW
Jetta
2.5L
Auto(tiptronic)
2006
US/Can
Frontwheels(i think)

07) Car starts and runs, but jerks in motion, fuel consumption appears normal.
28) Auto transmission slips in all gears, engine revs high, road speed doesn't match. Gear shift indicator on dash (PRNDS, PRND etc) all illuminated.

EXPLANATIONS:

i bought this car last month with 70,410 KM on it. It has 2 problems which are car doesnt start immediately after filling with fuel, this was fixed after diagnosing and we replaced the hose that delivers fuel to the injector, which was blocked and problem went away.

second prob is car jerks on shifting from gear 1 to 2, and 2 to 3. I guess my mechanic noticed this and he suggested full servicing ranging from engile oil change, engine oil filter change, atf change, all brake pads, all spark plugs, which i did as i see them necessary.

i bought the engine oil myself which was fully synthetic and met vw specs, but the atf i do not really know which brand and spec he bought but after atf was changed, the jerk from 1 - 2, 2 - 3 became more forceful and noticeable and also when downshifting also. we diagnosed gearbox with several workshop to no avail and no codes or fault were found and i was advice to use it like that till it becomes more pronounced and regular as it didnt happen everytime, just occasionally.

Few days after the check engine light was on and i went to diagnose at another workshop who specialize in german cars myself and the error was TRACTION CONTROL SYSTEM is faulty, the mechanic asked if i have noticed anything with the transmission and i told him the problem and he said probably the abs sensor is dirty and not sending signals to the transmission early enough as we are pressing the pedal to move. He cleared the code and said i should study it more and if it continues we can then try and find where the problem may be, i asked if cleaning/changing ABS sensor will solve the jerk but he wasnt so sure as he said he will have to find where the real problem is, firstly solving abs and then moving on to others, BUT the ABS light wasnt illuminated so i doubt this might be accurate.

Last week jerking became more pronounced and the PRNDS were all lighted, i had a friend take me to a VW specialist he knew and after complaining about the jerk, he changed the fuel filter, as it was dirty/blocked and that day the jerk never happened until the next day at an highway and it was worse, and i was leaving the traffic light with full force on the gas pedal, there was a jerk like 4 times repeatedly before it moved on, and the car never moved as fast as it used to, gear count stopped at 4 and when i remove foot from gas pedal, gear count went straight to 6 which is totally wrong and continue to mis-count until i off/on the car but car never went limp and do not happen anymore.

Next day i was at the workshop again, before got there noticed that the gear count went wrong again, and this time, when at complete stop the gear count is at 3 instead of 1, and while moving, goes from 3-4-5-6, and downshifting 6-5-4-3 and never below that until power off and removing key of the car and starting again and it corrected itself.
At the workshop they said probably the atf which was filled a month ago is bad one and when they check it was kind of dirty as they said, we had to change the gearbox oil again and this time i went to buy myself and bought the RAVENOL CVT ATF, fully synthetic and met vw/audi specs.

They removed the filter which is still ok and washed it with fuel with the gearbox pan and refilled with the ravenol atf. i had to take the car immediately after this and i noticed the jerk was still there going from gear 1 - 2, but never happened from 2 - 3 anymore, also downshifting from 3 - 2 it jerks as well but still not all times. after 20km of running the car, at a stop i shifting to N(neutral) and then to Reverse, then there was this big jerk(never happened before) also i noticed if i shift from either Park or Neutral to either Reverse or Drive, it gives a jerk before it balances. i decided to wait more time to allow circulation of the new oil before i conclude and next day the jerk from P/N to R/D disappeared and never happened again till now, but there is still little jerks sometimes from 1-2 and 3-2. At times only jerks once a day when shifting 1-2 and never when downshifting, at times its light, at times its hard, at times jerks 2ce repeatedly while shifting to 2 and there was a time(only once) thar car rev so high before changing gears.

i drived up to 60km today and never once did the jerk come up. yesterday i did up to 150km and experienced it like once.

The new mechanic said i should not let anybody touch the valve body as it is okay and the problem is not there else they may destroy it.

But i dont want this problem at all as i fear it may lead to more complicated issue, like destroying the gearbox itself, the car hasnt gained alot of miles to be having gear problems as i see it, and from what were changed, i doubt if the first user changed anything on the car.

Please advice what could be the prob. Its better to solve a problem at the early stage than when it becomes more of a complicated issue which will require alot.

I have already spent alot on the car as adviced by first mechanic to change all things so we can be able to gauge the time period ourselves. im regreting change the breakpads as the ones bought(new) seems to not be original as they make some kind of noise from front passenger tire.

Please just advice me with ur expertise on what i should do, i have contemplated going to VW service center to complain but i guess they will advice that i change the transmission or they over charge me for what i cant afford.

sorry for long writeups just have to get it straight so you can know where i am coming from.
Also, all this jerk, there is no Check engine light, and all diagnosing done on gearbox showed nothing as reported by the mechs. Also engine seat and gearbox seat are all okay. so i think it may be a mechanical prob.
But where or what is it?
Thanks

Hello Sienna, Kudos to u. U're doing a gr8 job on Nairaland. Pls, do u know a good mechanic for Audi A4 in Abj and where one can get geniune Audi A4 parts as well in Abj and it's environs.? I'll appreciate ur response.

@siena pls I also need your knowledge on my issue. I v audi A4[2.4] v6 auto transmission 99model. Smtyms ago I noticed d atf leaks n jerk wen I downshift to a certain level also takes tym to pick up at ds tym enngines reavs like the gear is on neutral. Until last 2 weeks d gear stopped workin and my mechanic said its the pump n conveter. We bot another n changed both. But selection form 1-2-3 jerks heavily. Two days after I noticed ATF s leakin n d gear still jerk very noticeably. Pls advice me on wot to do and if u knw any good mechanic in Ilorin that can handle it pls let me knw.
thank u

Looks like Mr Siena doesn't visit d thread anymore.. however, any relevant advice regarding 2002-2004 Audi a4 1.8T quatro, auto (not triptronic) gear would be appreciated. I intend purchasing 1.


Thanx in advance anyone

1. Volks Wagen
2. Golf 3
3. 1.8 litre engine
4. 5 speed manual transmission
5. 1994
i am not sure if it's Euro or US.
The car starts and runs but jerks in motion. Fuel consumption seems to be normal. It has gotten worse that after engaging a gear it hardly moves, i have to reve constantly with the clutch engaged. Please what do i do? Thank you. 08066827463 whatsapp

Siena:

Your car has 2 separate issues - engine and power train.

Your clutch is slipping, so you're looking at a replacement, requiring gearbox removal. I always advice a complete clutch kit, rather than individual parts. So pressure plate, friction disc and throw-out bearing. Prolonged driving with a slipping clutch, will ruin your flywheel too.

The jerking issue could be either fuel or ignition related. Rather than guess, I would suggest you get your car scanned for DTC's. Your 1.8 SOHC 8V engine will be either SPFI (Single Point Fuel Injection) or MPI (Multi Point Injection) and the diagnostic approach will be different for both. If you could take a photograph of the engine bay, that would be helpful too.

the mechanics around call it electric carburetor or shooter. It has three socket pins in the format of 6, 4, 4. I honestly don't know what a DTC mean but i will ask. It is also worthy of note that before it got out of hand, it starts normal and steams perfect, it only jerked when in motion

Gbaa: 1. Volks Wagen
2. Golf 3
3. 1.8 litre engine
4. 5 speed manual transmission
5. 1994
i am not sure if it's Euro or US.
The car starts and runs but jerks in motion. Fuel consumption seems to be normal. It has gotten worse that after engaging a gear it hardly moves, i have to reve constantly with the clutch engaged. Please what do i do? Thank you. 08066827463 whatsapp

You did not explain it like this in the other thread. Siena is always on point.

Hi guys, i could use some help n advice. I noticed that the indicator light with a steering wheel, in the speedo panel of my Skoda Octavia has come on, and with difficulty turning my steering in either direction. What could be the problem pls? Gurus in the house. ..

Please Mr Sienna,
I have a Volkswagen jetta 1999 model,automatic transmission that is giving transmission problems,the gear failed while travelling and refused to shift to reverse,I consulted wide and was directed to a volks gear mechanic who changed the valve body and some other things yet the car still is not working fine.
It goes on and off while in motion,
Had to look for money and get a new car but I want to ask if Its advisable to change the transmission from auto to manual.
I live in Benin.

Hi Mr Siena/ all,

I just changed my vw golf 3 front shocks but I still hear some noise. I know d shocks are good but Dnt know wat else cld be making dat annoying noise. Especially on "un-smooth" roads. Is it d bushings?

Thanx

01) volkswagen
02) Golf 3
03) 1.8L
04) manual transmission
05) 1993
pls I need help. whenever I carry friends in my car. when going over normal bumps or rough roads my car always touches the ground. however i'm thinking abt raising it since changing tyres is a lil expensive for me now but i need expert advice on whats best... thank you.

mili3kid:
01) volkswagen
02) Golf 3
03) 1.8L
04) manual transmission
05) 1993
pls I need help. whenever I carry friends in my car. when going over normal bumps or rough roads my car always touches the ground. however i'm thinking abt raising it since changing tyres is a lil expensive for me now but i need expert advice on whats best... thank you.

U need 2 raise it.. I even carry up to 4 on mine sometimes

bisi16:

U need 2 raise it.. I even carry up to 4 on mine sometimes

kk....tnx. still need more advice ooo

Please guys,
How can I test the POWER STEERING PUMP of my Vw Golf 98
Gti, Auto...
A times the steering used to be stronger than it use to be...
Please help...
Cc
Siena
Ikenna
and co

Siena:


Were the replacement shock absorbers brand new, and genuine Volkswagen items?

Is the noise from the front a more like a knocking, or a creaking?

Yes, they're coming 4rm d front especially wen am at a slow pace, clucking sound. D shocks are tokunbo. Good ones are hard 2find here.

Thanx

Hi Siena, i am looking to buy a car, i am interested in the 2002 or 2003 passat. I am having problems deciding which one to go for,

1. The turbo chargeed 1.8t engine automatic

Or

2. V6 4 motion automatic.

I have been offered both (Nigeria used), both of them have about the same millage (120,000).


Please which of them will you advice to go for (assuming they have no issues). I am scared if our mechanics will be able to handle turbo on the 1.8t or the v6 4motion.

Which of them will be easier to maintain cost wise and i hope to do minor repairs myself.

Again, i don't have money for volkwagen centre but i have been reading online and i will be looking for a good enough mechanic.

Please advise bro.
Thanks Siena

Siena:


Buying (and fitting) used dampers is an absolute waste of time.

How can you tell how much life they have left? Or how many miles the car they were originally fitted to had covered? Such items I would only buy new. It is possible your replacement dampers are worn.

Another cause of clunking coming from the front of the car, at lower speeds over uneven surface is worn lower wishbone bushes, or worn anti-roll bar linkages. I would get these checked, and make sure the strut top mounts are in good shape.

thanks boss, i'll get them checked. as for buying new shocks, the one i replaced was bought new, and it didnt last 3months..

Siena:
Grafikii, I would go with the 2.8 V6 4Motion. It will use a bit more gas than the 1.8T, but ultimately will be cheaper to run. The 30V engine is tough, the 1.8T engine is prone to sludge, especially if running it on mineral / multigrade engine oil. Sludge will wreck the oil pump, causing oil starvation, and engine failure.

Turbochargers are not Nigerian mechanic-friendly, and replacements are not easy to come by. The K03 turbo is a weak point, so used units are likely to be dead, or at least close to death.

Thanks so much, i am very grateful.

I will also like to know how easy or problematic the 4motion is (for Nigerian mechanic) or should i go on and search for the ordinary v6 without 4motion.

The first thing i would like to do on the car is to change the timing belt, water pump, thermostat and co.

Thanks Siena

Siena:


Raising the suspension of a vehicle, beyond its design limits will make the handling unpredictable and unstable. If the roads in your locality are bad enough to make contact with the underside of your car, then your car is not fit for the purpose. You are expecting too much of it.

Or the original suspension has degraded with age. The springs may well have become soft, and your dampers may be shot. Brand new dampers could work wonders. There are heavy duty rear springs and dampers for models fitted with a factory tow bar available for your car. These are slightly higher, and will resist compression and rebound better than the stock items.

alryt boss. thanks alot for the response. i saw ur advice earlier to a fellow on buying new shocks. sir wen I bot d car (tokunbo) i changed d rear shocks and got new ones. now they're dead and d original ones dt came with d ride(front shocks) are still very much good to go. considering the difficulty of getting very good new ones, i believe d best option is to get tokunbo shocks. so my enquiry is pls, au do I kno or au can I test the tokunbo shocks? if at all theres a way to test them.

Hi all, please can you recommend a scanner for Volkswagon Touraeg it is an american specs V8 4.2 (petrol) and the year is 2006
Thanks in advance

Hello Mr Sienna, please help me out with this. I drive a volkswagen passat 2002 wagon, V6 4motion. The main problem I have is that, I have to rev it for q long time before it changes gear especially the gear 2.

I scanned it and this where the faults found;
1. Torque clutch converter
2. Gear ratio monitoring
P0730-35.00 Incorrect
Gear ratio
3. Gear 2
P0732.

Please what is the solution to thiis? Thank you.

pls oga siena, how many litres of engine oil is recommended for my golf 3 1.8L engine?