₦airaland Forum

earthrealm: we are all saying the same thing.....i wudnt waste synthetic oil on my dads vboot, or any car produced after 2001....then peugeot cars, throwing synthetic oil at it is wasting time...even most bmw cars..that use 8litres of oil..on most car forums..people drive them for 12months and 15k miles on a single oil change......but i wudnt have an 09 camry n then put dion 20w 50 oil in it.............i hv been very close to knocking my toyota engine sometime in the past due to using the oil for more than 3months n abt 5k miles.......so i wudnt want to experience such again, cos am saving about 5 or 6k..then i wreck my engine.
in a nutshell..just like you said...use the oil that the car manufacturer specified for ur engine, and if u hv a toyota with the 0w 30 recommended...and the true mileage is less than 140k miles...i wud advice you to run 0w40, or max 10w 40 etc

Are u saying that using mobil1 0W40 in a vboot or benz 190 is a waste of oil? but that is the recommended oil for that car check that Benz manual.. i feel you are misguiding here..Ok, let me point out something to you, if u use visco 2000 or any 20w50 on your vboot or 190 , u have this hard starting kind of experience when the engine is cold or left overnight, u need to press down your throttle pedal before it comes up,also increased mpg as well(but when hot its start up one hand) If you use mobil 1 0W40 or any other synthetic oil in that range of say 5w40 etc, you dont have that effect. you may even use the oil for 12 to 15 months , so how does that explain wastage in your opinion? The only thing i could be afraid of is the oil filter catridge getting blocked and knocking engine, though this is not confirmed..neither do i know this to be true.

I am not comfortable with this explanation of yours because recently i started using mobil 1 in my benz 190, and i have started enjoying my early morning startup and mpg as well.. tho i have been using it steadily in my C class Benz

ninz: Well, i'd go for a tokunbo if d price is within my reach else I make do with a Naija-used.
Am in Akwa ibom, I believe we shud hav a few competent mechanics.
Honestly, I admire d C-class but, all those hi-tech issues i've read about here has gotten me scared.
..and I may not afford those regular maintenances u talk of.
Have u driven a 190?
Au. hanson has both the 190 and the C-class, he advices I go for the 190.
What do u think?

My Brother, i am not comfortable with you going for the naija-use because you could hardly find the one that has not been so much tampered with, except you are ready to correct all the wrongs and ills of years done to it and that could equate the same amount you could have bought a good toks, and u may pick the car with a very bad fuel economy(except if u were to buy mine, but then all my benz are for keep..i can't sale them..they are my toys..see my benz190 https://www.nairaland.com/1087033/reliability-c180#12872210 and my c class https://www.nairaland.com/1211983/post-current-car-picture/7#14826459. I marvel people that keep neat 1953 etc Benz cars in top shape. It intrigue me to see older benz looks like they were manufactured today, that's how my cars are..i like keeping them)..

Tokumbo full option(injector based) is about 450,000.00, Lagos price...The carburetor based is an older technology to the injection system , the injector system performs faster and could achieved better fuel economy if properly maintained with good tuning and not tampered with, but could be the worst if tampered.

I didn't advice you to go for benz 190, but only made you to realise your choices based on the prevalent local circumstances to inform your decision taking.

Hey smart choice , how is your rpm now?
[quote author=au.hanson]maybe i am not using the right word here, its that vertical adjustment rod behind the actuator that controls RPM

This link that i help someone will explain better what i am trying to express: http://mercedesforum.com/forum/mercedes-c-class-10/1995-c220-idles-too-high-52939/#post162369[/quote]

ninz: I honestly have no idea though there are lots of Benz's and Audi's here, the A4 isnt very common.
Also, as this will be my first car, which wud u advice in terms of low maintenance, etc?
Tanx

In my honest opinion, the benz 190 might be just cheaper to maintain, and their mechanic abound everywhere,but be prepared for replacement of worn out and expired parts as they come, though quite very cheap too to replace over here.It can withstand the roughest terrain any suv can withstand without breakingdown all year round, i am talking from experience.If you do not allow the mech boys tamper so much with it ,in the name of conversion etc, you will still enjoy her fuel economy like me, but if you let them do all those useless conversion instead of parts replacement you would loose your fuel economy a great deal and may not be impressed by it at all.

Alternatively, the c class is a fantastic ride, a replacement ride for the discontinued Benz 190. It is technologically driven(what i marvel most about it) and needs a lot of knowledge and common sense, most importantly to keep it going. if you can endure and be ready to learn about this car;the electrical systems and the fuel systems.. and not just relying wholly on your mechanic, the c class would have been your best bet, just like mine (though i was dealt with bitterly initially when i first got it by the mech boys before i learnt my lesson very well). In my honest opinion, if you can acquire these knowledge fast, and do some very simple and cheap preventive maintenance and servicing as at when due(it even has a very extensive servicing period), as well as washing your fuel tank once every year,you would wonder whether c class do normally spoil at all, i bet you. You will find the c class the cheapest to own and maintain and with a lots of fun,great pleasurable handling and with real Mercedes Benz prestige and aura,if you learn your car well else, go for the 190. Because with the c class nothing must be tampered, nothing must be converted anyhow else you will regret in an expensive way.. it tolerance to abuse isn't as high like that of the Benz 190,though it has a great fuel economy(the feature i enjoy most in it), if in good shape.


From all of the above i believe you can take a decision then, goodluck

Gee2728: ur spot on abt the engine noise, acceleration and fuel consumption. Its an auto shift and I got it scanned and code P1236 (magnetic compressor clutch) is that compressor fixable or straight replacement?

Sorry my Dear, just saw this now..its been long i haven't come here, cos i've been too busy, neither do i receive email notification on this

However, you need a new kompressor clutch..alternatively you can get a rebuilt one with clutch if you cant find the part. This will definitely solve your problem if you haven't solved it already. if it doesn't, just kindly let me know, there's just one more thing that could follow, i don't want to mention here yet untill you do that so that i may not sound like i am eliminating problems for you,else i believe this would definite solve your problem.

I fix my cars myself; it saves me a lot of time and money; i learnt from my bitter experience of leaving my car in a useless garage for months wasting my hard earn money and time; if i go to Mech, i tell them where the problem is and what to replace, i don't care what anybody may say after all ..in as much as i always get it right and my cars keep running all year round in top shape. Good luck

Acidosis: Hmm


Its normal for people who haven't used any of these phones (Techno N3, N7 & F7) to bark.

I did similar thing those days when I was a symbian fanatic. Infact I insulted some android folks then. Few days after I got my first android, then I realised my stup¡d¡ty

I'm presently typing with a small android phone (galaxy pocket), and I'm ready to sell for N5,000 to any willing buyer. Its not worth the 20K.

I refused to be f00led by some small small chips.
Techno is only trying to open our eyes!

Samsung etc only sell their NAMES to us! The phone is nowhere close to the selling price. Don't be f00led by small Korean teenagers.

I've used Techno N3, seen N7 and all I can say is... wow!
Bye to Samsung, HTC, as for Nokia, they died a long time ago.

Hello Acidosis, i seems to like your post, it looks real, let me ask you an honest question. Pls give me an honest answer, i use htc built on android platform, what is battery life of the techno like(i mean n3 n7 and the phantom in comparison to samsung or nokia product) that's my only concern..i dnt want to be fooled like i was fool into black berry useless battery lifespan, so annoying!! Thanks in much awaited anticipation

I believe your machine isn't a manual tranny else i would have ask you to check your clutch. If it is auto tranny,which i beleive, i would confidently say that you should Check your kompressor system. Something is gradually going bad somewhere in that system, soon your engine sound will start getting louder:It may need a little attention. You could confirm this by comparing your fuel consumption then with now; and definitely you should notice a slight increase in your mpg and reduction in the sharpness of your performance(i'e quick acceleration); For instance, if you use to make 0-65mph in 8 secs, you will now be making same in 11 secs or more. i know that very few Nigerians effectively fix that,precisely one guy at Aba, but you will need to be on the queue cos he's really got much in his hand to handle since he is good at it..and he gives 4 yrs guarantee after fixing it.

Gee2728: got me a W202 2000 C230kompressor, its a brillient car. Before the check engine lights came on it was superb. I once did 237kmp on a strech 2 abuja from kaduna. But lately I notice a delay in trottle respons have tried several mech with diagnostic machine no one seems to know the fault I even strogle to go pass 180kmp lately. Please any 1 knows somthing abt this or a good mech to help fix this fault.

maybe i am not using the right word here, its that vertical adjustment rod behind the actuator that controls RPM

This link that i help someone will explain better what i am trying to express: http://mercedesforum.com/forum/mercedes-c-class-10/1995-c220-idles-too-high-52939/#post162369

smartchoice: which one is actuator vertical rod?

Ikenna351: I dont know much about Benz injection systems, but i do know that the symptom the Tommysparks car is having sounds like Fuel starvation issue,usually caused by failed intank fuel pump, for cars with two fuel pumps: intank pump and main (external) pump. When an intank pump fails, the fuel will be cutting off when fuel goes below half tank.

I wouldnt know if Benz or that particular C -class has intank pump, but i would check if it does, if i were tommysparks. And if there is intank pump in the tank, i would simply replace it without carrying out any other test, because thats the symptom of failed intank pump. But if it doesnt have intank pump except the main or external pump, then....

Please, note that its dangerous to test intank pump outside the tank. It could explode. Its also designed to run inside fluid (fuel), which acts as a lubricant for the pump or cools it too.

Like i said, i dont know much about Benz, but tommysparks car is having fuel starvation issue, and the culprit is usually intank pump, for injection system with intank and main pumps.

Ikenna.

Sure Ikenna, you are right if it were cars like Toyota Camry,Rovers etc that has it fuel pump in the fuel tank; my friend who owns a Rover had this issue too, but i am yet to know of a Benz with an intank fuel pump. A friend with w202 Benz c280 had this issue overtime and was so worried because his fuel gauge wasnt even working too. He came to me lamenting:I told him not to worry, We decided to test out the fuel pump and the fuel pump relay on quarter tank fuel, everything worked fine. The lines were then traced, the culprit here was the line from the fuel pump relay socket that had a wound and was giving partial contact, though that may not be the case here anyway;

Maybe His fuel pump may be on its way out , if it finds it difficult to start again afterwards. Also,finding it difficult to take low fuel unless refilling the tank(it has to work harder with low fuel, this may be difficult for a weak pump, but at full tank, the added weight of the fuel will help it pump better)..Remember the very fact that you change the dirty filter and tank.. may have already put a lot of pressure(overworked) on your fuel pump before now.The pump could be tested to ascertain this part too as stated earlier above, or you just outrightly replace the pump and keep this as spare or backup in your boot, but make sure you oil(pour some engine oil into it)it well while keeping as spare and observe the situation again.

you can achieve 700 if you clean up carbon deposit form from non premium fuel usage off your system: the plugs, the actuator, the pvc etc, hence better MPG if you readjust your actuator vetical rod. It might rise initially to 1000 and above but would settle at 700rpm when at 87 degrees celcious. My neighbour achieve 500 with his c280 and cw203 c200 kompressor..I use to achive that too with my c180, but because of the undesirable dragging effect(it use to be like driving a trailer) when loaded with AC and coccupants at hold up, i decided to step it up to 700 rpm

smartchoice: vacuum restored rpm now stays on 1000 when warm.

No harm, sorry i am seeing this late.

matson: You are right. I only found out recently after a refill about 3/4weeks ago. Is there any harm in letting out the refrigerant and do a refill?

Hey sorry, i have just seen this now. I will if i am chance to go to the shops again, Its very far from me.But the can may not be much different but the price. The original is pricey

smartchoice: Can you post the picture of an original one

For benz enthusiast:

http://www.topspeed.com/cars/car-news/first-victory-ever-for-mercedes-in-n-rburgring-24-hours-race-ar156294.html

Sometimes, this can be fuel pump issues, because it does too much work to pump the fuel when the fuel is low. You can observe the power of your pump by uninstalling it and testing the pump pressure with the terminals of the car battery to confirm if it is pumping high or low. Secondly it could still be an electrical issue around the fuel pump relay socket at the boot, if it were w202(i am not sure of w203). If it were w202, this is what you would have done:
Because of the much needed pressure at quatre tank, it may be having failing or partial contact, to test this , connect a wire to the first hole by the right of the fuel pump relay socket(usually no connectors goes through the fuel pump realay to this hole) and extend the wire to the positive head of your car battery, fix back the fuel pump relay to sit on the wire too. Start your motto and drive extensively at low tank and observe if it will cut off again. Good luck

tommysparks: Hello benz users, I use a C240 W203
My problem is dat d fuel cuts at 1/4 tank I have to refill d tank before d car starts. D car was jerking my mech checked d fuel filter it was filled wit dirt so I changed it and had him wash d fuel tank now d jerking has stopped but d fuel now cuts and d car won't start when it gets to 1/4 tank. Pls anyone with such experience should tell me how he solved his own cos I want to minimise trial and error from our local mechs cos once they touch ur car wit guess work its always one problem to another.

Your ac is leaking somewhere, don't refill again untill you find where the leakage is. Usually, this kind of leakage do most likely occur around the crimps between the ac hoes and the cripms at the condenser joints and from the compressor pipe that leads to the evaporator. Start from there(the condenser joint) to trace for oil leaks down to the compressor neck. If you see one , then replace that particular hoes, or recrimp, If it is not tightened well then tightened it well.If non, also start from the compressor joint pipe that leads to the evaporator and look for oil trace.If it is the evaporator, then you will have to replace that. Locally, detergent foam can be helpful to trace the leaks for you. But a more refine way to do it is to refill with dye to see where it is actually leaking from Goodluck

pafestula: MB guru, please help! My C class started drama since yesterday, I noticed the A.c was not too cold yesterday, so I took it for gas refiling stuff, which it began working fine and driving smoothly, but today when I started the engine in the morning, the said A.c went back to the old way of not of not been cold, this evening I noticed the gear area became very warm also the AC blowing warm breeze , also my RMP increased to 4000 rmp when I switch the gear to "P" but when on "" - 2000 rmp with AC on. please help if this is normal and the way out to that AC and the warm stuff. Thanks

matson: Thanks for the links, really helpful. I ordered an OBD2 bluetooth adapter which I intend using with Torque, hopefully, I can use it to clear the error and refil the gas.

Good! But note one thing too; be careful that you buy the the recommended original refrigerant for your benz..very many fake ones are available in the market

smartchoice: Thank you. Will give feedback after restoring the vacuum lines.

Alright then, have a wonderful week ahead

matson: Any help with this?

Ac problems may be difficult to diagnose online,its best done on site, but see these for your guide: http://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w203/362028-how-reset-deactivated-c.html
http://www.eclassbenz.com/2010/02/how-to-diagnose-air-conditioning-malfunctions/

smartchoice: Thanks. Had a mishap between Àbaji and Gwagwalada that resulted into bursted fuel lines .... however the mechanics blocked the vacuum 2 vacuum lines leading to the airfilter. I will try to get the after market one's. However I notice a misfire at idle.

Ok! Did u mean to say, "2 vacuum lines leading to the combustion chamber(i.e. where u have the actuator)"? Then, if so, i dnt think u have any issue: Those vacuum lines brings down idling to normalcy in a way;with them blocked u cud have misfiring; once u replace them everything gonna be alright. Take care

smartchoice: Thanks Au Hanson. However I must confess that the vacuum lines have been removed ..after a fire incident destroyed them.

Oh! Oh! sorry dear, what happened? make sure u replace them, u cud find them cheap at the after market.In that case i think you should also check your plug cables after replacing the vacumm lines, the fire may have affected them and they may not be delivering well enough-i had this experience with my 190 when i mistakenly left it steaming overnight till the engine oil burnt and turn black; i had to replace all the plugs cable with the aftermarket before i could get my baby sound as good again. Sorry for the fire incidence

smartchoice: Peeps pinging C180 engine under acceleration ...any ideas?

If i may understand your slangs SmartChoice, you mean sudden slow or poor acceleration bar?

If so,then your oxygen sensor needs replacement: Its your O2 sensor that signals your computer(ECU) how rich or lean your engine should burn proportionate mixture of fuel and air. If they are faulty , your engine will likely run too rich or lean which leads to unburn fuel going through catalytic converter leading to poor acceleration and fuel consumption. Replace this cheap components and all will be well. Then remember to clean the carbon it would have accumulated on your actuator body and also on your plugs due to non premium fuel usage(unleaded fuel)..Inshort, cleaning these 2 alone can improve your performance greatly while yet to change your O2 sensor.

yungboss: nice one...thats the highest i ve done too 2 times...i crossed 200 by a hair's breadth...

How's that your Beemer? cos it takes some guts to do this speed on my 4 cylinder c180 machine.

omodapson: Never would I have thought that I would be doing more than 120km on any vehicle but I got that wrong today. When the right car meets the right road in a perfect condition, there's really no holding back.

The road is Ilorin-Ogbomoso and Oyo-Ibadan, car is Mercedes benz c240 2003 model. l was consistently hitting 130+ miles on the speedometer and it was as if I was just starting. I couldn't believe the feat.

That gave me so much to ponder, what if I had a much better car... Thank God I didn't drive myself to heaven

I wonder what car could be better than 2003 c240 machine on the highway apart from the superchargers?

Demdem: My target is 220. Will not rest till I acheive it.

Guy, i beg u be careful as u do that; make sure you follow the factory recommended pressure gauge for your tire whenever you are on the highway. You can see this at your fuel cover.Also, make sure your tires and suspension systems are in order as well, and the nuts are well tightened. Goodluck!!

gluv01: Me likey babe

Yeah! you're cute by our african standard; excellent; but she still remains the award winner! Also watch yourself so that u dont blow up too soon.

Made 200km/h with my w202 c180 through Uyo 4 lane freeways, as i was going from PH to Calabar

yungboss: your car is beautiful...

Thanks man! I love them clean and appealing, 'makes me love driving

lungwun: Hello Hanson, what is the reliability and parts availability of this like?

Is yours a compressor or naturally aspirated engine?

Thanks.

Lungwun, mine is not compressor but naturally aspirated engine.

Almost all the part are available at the TOks(after market) market, but be careful who you give to diagnose your electricals, i prefer diagnosing it myself after i learnt my lesson once..There's no big deal about the car: From my personal point of view, it's more reliable and economical than its predecessor, the w201 benz 190, i.e. if no one messes with your electrical system: The suspension system , the chassis and the engine has non like it yet;they are rugged and stronger than even those of SUV's in the JAPANESE world needless to say.

Onwan: @Emperoh
Thanks for your response.

Most people that buy the Honda Accord are everyday users; like employees, bankers, etc - they drive it everyday; I don't know about your mum's driving BUT I'm pretty sure she wont be using it like an average male driver.

Ive never owned a C Class but bought a 190 once and an E320. The E Class can handle an everyday usage BUT will need some serious periodic checks so as not to depreciate terribly (Money), For the 190 (contrary to your own experience) which was to be like a pool ride BUT just not practical, so had to do away with it. The mechanic simply becomes your "god".

The thing is that the Mercedes C Class will last a very long time because its built to be rugged, BUT If you will drive it as an everyday ride, you will spend so much. They are better as travel or leisure rides BUT the Honda is a guaranteed everyday everyday driver without spending too much - and the comfort is worth every cent you spend.

You might also want to consider fuel economy on the long run.

Well! i have owned my 190 for 6 years now as everyday knock about vehicle without any hassle and it still look like new with everything still intacts and functional. The problems with the ones you have own or see is compromises of either the mecho or the owner,with very poor maintenace or some useless tampered conversions off the factory settings..you'll hate this car like hell if you run it this way. But, if left at factory fittings you'll find it very difficult to let go off it. I only got tired of my 190, tho still kept as backup and got myself a Cclass just for upgrade and for fuel economy, because its perfect with the c just like any Jap cars. My C now act as everyday knockabout vehicle without any hassle once i got my electrical components right. I am confidence going anyway with it/travelling at anytime anyday just like i do with my 190. Above all, it has an extended period(a year plus) of maintenance/servicing making it so cheap to own at the long run compared to Jap models and with a very low running cost.You hadly change any parts all year round(for years) apart from wear component like the brake pad and servicing the electrical components.The suspension system are stronger and last longer than that of even Japanese SUV's

I wont comment on honda cause i have only driven it for very few times and never own one before. But if it is to go by what i see those who owns it suffer; ranging from serious suspension issues; to gearbox problems; stearing ache issues and; engine timing belt catastrophy; then count me off honda ride no matter how fine the interior could attract.

[quote author=Trac][/quote]Anyways, thanks for your response

jahjehova: Sorry my my oversight. Its a 1995 C220, auto.

It gets worse. I had a mecho clean the wheel speed sensor thinking it might be the fault. On leaving the shop, the lights were still on, worse still, the speedometer aint lifting up anymore not to talk of malfunction. The mileage meter is also dead.

I just hope by cleaning the sensor, I have not "eaten the adams apple".

As per the ETS & ABS lights, I stumbled on this : www.benzworld.org/forums/w210-e-class/1261869-i-need-help-my-abs-ets.html .

Pls can U verify?


Thanks

You've done nothing wrong in cleaning the sensor.I think that sensor has to do with tachometer if not mistaken.
What you've got here "www.benzworld.org/forums/w210-e-class/1261869-i-need-help-my-abs-ets.html " is good
Remember the first person talked about changing the switch, and the second talked about replacing the battery, and the 3rd talk about the switch and faulty tail light assembly. for the other person, neither the battery nor the switch would work for him; who knows if his tail light assembly is faulty? sometimes they may be different solutions for different persons, just like in my own case that cleaning the instrument cluster help the matter. Some may apply 1 solution, some 2 etc.

If i were you, i will first test the battery with a multimeter to determine if the treshold has dropped to 10 volt. In fact, if it even drop below 12 volt i will swap with another battery whose threshold has not gone below 12 volts(my batteries in both cars of mine gives me reading above 12 volts, sometimes 13 volts, and i have a battery charger at home which i charge them if i wouldn't use one car for an extended period) to test and eliminate this aspect.

If the problem still persist, i will further change the switch as explained with an oem switch, but before then, test the switch for continuity with a multimmeter. Physically, you may try pressing the switch with your fingers on both ends while listening to the sound it produces;
you can check out this here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CWRbt_Luj-o

Also, If this wouldnt work, dont give up yet; you could check the output speed sensor on the universal/differential casing; Do physical examination on it; if it is bad, replace it: http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w202-c-class/1423943-rear-speed-sensor-replacement-diy.html

If all these doesn't work,which i believe it should, i'll take the machine for scanning and note the error code before i try another repair

Goodluck

jahjehova: @all: Pls I need help

I travelled to abuja where I changed my brakepads 4 d four wheels. As I was coming back, I noticed d brake pedal vibrated as I steped on it. Immediately, the ETS & ABS lights came on, The speedometer failed, cruise control dosent work anymore. Scary part is dat d lights turn off attimes but then come back on.

One mecho says its d master brake. NUEL autos say its d wheel speed sensor. Please any idea from the house?

I help ASAP. Cant imagine driving without traction control and ABS.

Service manual and owners manual also needed. Mine is german. Tanx.

I can be reached at
08060509817
deleonipede@gmail.com

I have replied you here already https://www.nairaland.com/1087033/reliability-c180/4#15093571