₦airaland Forum

cardoctor:
@Kashif

You are still not done with this gearbox?

Since done boss. Just a checkup to see how my 'patient' is doing.

chimdilawson:
They did dropped the gear, I was present when the supposed specialist came to pick it up to go change oil pump/seal, same time the axle differential guy came to pick the axle differential for repairs as well.. I wanted he let the gear guy fix it right there at his shop, but the gear guy said he has to take it to his own shop as the tools he require for the fix and all are over there.. I outrightly told my mechanic what if this tranny comes back not healthy? He said the gear guy would pay should he damage it....

Now who go pay na? Nobody.. .I'm just in a mess right now.. Prior to the cleaning of the filter or so that after which the car could now move and not stop moving upon accelerating after 10mins drive (when car heats up), he tried to check the ATF gauge when I arrived from the test drive, it was like a frying/severe burning was going on in there, smoke kept evolving from the opening where the ATF fluid is poured into, but that stopped after the cleaning of the filter, he said it was blocked with much debris and prevented air from going in blah blah.... Currently, this transmission is just not performing well....

The 13pin, how much would it cost to have it on this car? Thanks boss!

This is the third time "changed pump and transmission died" is being reported. I don't know how they do it for this to occur. The only thing that comes to my mind is dirty work environment. I once worked on a Toyota Sienna, and from the way my guys handled the transmission on installation, I told them that the transmission will not work. Even if it worked, it would be for a day or so. And it did come right back! Valve body was full of sand!

With the filter cleaning, am sure he meant ATF, and not air!

With the overheating and smoke coming out of the dip, that transmission cannot be used in its current state. The clutches and brakes must have burnt up.

Possible solutions:

Replace current transmission with original U151(13pin). The current price is prohibitive (430k)
Replace current transmission with a U140 (10pin). About 240k with the rear differential.
Repair the current transmission - valve body must be thoroughly cleaned, burnt cluthes/brakes/steels replaced.


Best of luck.

chimdilawson:
Mr. Kashif, well done boss! I stumbled on this thread whilst searching on net for a forum that has useful info relating to gear issues, what more? This thread you created is undoubtedly the best! To think that you ain't really a mechanic but dedicated so much time to finding a solution to what transpired on your transmission, mehn, I'm perplexed! Your own engineer na talent/gift.. Lemme briefly narrate my ordeal.

So "recession" is here and a young man decided he should use his life savings so far to get a vehicle and make ends meet from transportation... I opted for a Sienna, tokunbo is quite on the high side, way above what I had, so Nigerian used was the alternative... So I saw this 2005 AWD Toyota Sienna on OLX, went along with a mechanic recommended by a friend to check the vehicle out, he drove it, said engine and transmission were good! "Minor services such as working on the suspension, changing steering oil pump and gearbox oil pump/seal", so I got the car.. Whilst driving down home, got into a pot hole with both legs on speed, 5 mins later, front legs sized whilst on speed (thank God it didn't result to an accident), tried moving the car and it kept on this struggling to move thing with a severe grinding sound, had to park and had it towed down the next day to his workshop. On getting there, started the car and discovered the seizure was not longer there and the car was moving normal front and back, told him it seems this ish was gone, he insisted it's a problem with "axle differential" and had to be worked on else it would repeat again.. Lemme cut this story, after spending so much for the fix of the axle differential, change of gearbox oil pump and the suspensions, now I went back to check on the progress, went for a test drive, it was a whole new problem When car was driven for like 10mins, it stops to move, would remain static, I kept firing and no way! Turned off engine, returned gear selection to neutral and pushed the car outta the road, turned on engine again and selected reverse, it moved, sent back to drive and it moved, back to the workshop, he called someone who's supposedly a gearbox specialist, and he recommended a filter should around the gear really don't know what that meant, should be changed or cleaned properly.. I came back the next day he said he had done that.. I went for a test drive again, now car doesn't stop moving on it's own, but I noticed too many abnormalities....

When I turn on the car and select reverse, it doesn't move, once I take it to drive and move forward a bit and then return it to reverse then it moves, the reverse can't/struggles to climb a hill, each time I transmit it, it makes this "giggi" strong sound, doesn't pick up fine from start but pick later and comes with a really rattling noise!

Help!!!! I'm feeling the transmission is ruined!

The mech guy said the gear is 10pin, that it comes with 13pin but it seems the previous owner prolly changed it to the 10pin..

Please I need your professional advise /suggestion, I reside in Port Harcourt... I'm afraid of taking it back to the mechanic guy as I feel they would destroy more things in course of repairs cos this ish started after the supposedly axle differential repairs..

Wow! What an ordeal! I empathise with you, but with all I have read above, that your transmission could be toast. Why on earth would they change the pump?? Anyway, that was a lie, because it is impossible without dropping the transmission. How is the fluid now? Burnt? You may have been better off not listening to your mechanic when he suggested service.

I am afraid you will need to replace it with the correct transmission - U151(13pin). That may be the real reason for selling the vehicle.

Costee:
But of course most codes relating to the valve body are also electrical since circuits are involved. And yes ESMs will tell you to proceed from circuit test. I am not for the temp sensor in this (OP's) case, my hunch is for the SM, but clearly the first TSB associates the quality of the fluid with the three sensors either severally or collectively. Yes, changing the transmission is extreme but Nissan leaves no choice by not offering the sensors for sale as component units. The closest you'd get is the valve body.

The bolded is incorrect. Performance/ratio and pressure codes are more. Electricals are about 20%.

For example, if the flow regulator in the pump body is worn, you will have gear ratio code, stepper motor performance code and pressure code. The reason is that any of those can throw ratio codes. The main culprit is never mentioned!

If the steel balls in the pulley is worn, those codes show up as well. You only have electrical codes when there is electrical failure, which are in few cases.

TKH:
Thanks. Do you have a recommendation for where I can do this, preferably in Ibadan.

No I dont.

He needs a diagnosis before thinking of a replacement. Anybody knows how much the transmission costs?

My point is noting the difference between electrical and performance codes when it comes to transmissions. TSBs lead to card level repair, while techs look at component level repair. With electrical issues, it is better to test circuit and computer first (whenever possible) before the component.

From the TSBs, you will see that given the present codes where applicable, it never called for cvt fluid change. Nothing suggests that the fluid is a suspect. There is no P0840 and P0845 stored. Most OEM manuals will call for transmission replacement if the fluid is burnt, because some holding members are burnt. No TSB will call for transmission replacement if the temp sensor fails.

I am yet to see why the fluid is the bad guy in this case.

Costee:
I'm on the OP's side. I do wish for his sake it is a step motor issue. lol.

The attached picture determines if a SM is bad or not. If hooked up correctly, a push should glow the LEDs

There is something you guys are all overlooking. ALL the codes are electrical. It makes a lot of difference.

If he has performance/ratio code(s), then I will agree the fluid could be a culprit. The computer knows the difference between these two. The ammeter in the computer is constantly measuring the electrical behaviour of the actuators and sensors. It knows the range of feedback expected. In electrical codes, its either the computer's signal is not reaching its destination, or the feedback is not reaching the computer (in the expected form/range). Electrical codes will trigger ratio and pressure codes, but I don't see how it could be the other way round.

Temperature sensors are thermistors so they cannot tell if they are sensing palm kernel oil or vaseline. I don't see a bad fluid taking it out.

Prof325:
Please how do i know if it the computer that is not commanding upshift,and if it is how do i rectify it.thank u

Look for a tech with a capable scanner so he can look at what the computer is telling the transmission while driving. If it is the computer, then find out why - sensor not working properly, cable or the computer itself.

TKH:
Thanks. I learnt that the possible causes of the P0341 code are:

Faulty Camshaft Position Sensor
Camshaft Position Sensor harness is open or shorted
Camshaft Position Sensor circuit poor electrical connection
Faulty starter motor
Starting system circuit
Dead (Weak) battery

The mechanic has worked on the camshaft position sensor and cleared the code, but it returned. I was experiencing starter issues and had to change the kick starter when it became problematic. There was considerable improvement but there are still some starting issues and I sometimes have to start it two or three times. What do you think?

Read more: https://www.autocodes.com/p0341_honda.html

Get a good technician to check integrity of wires from the sensor to the ECU. Let him wiggle the wires while having his meter hooked up.

This should be done with the charging system loaded - AC, lights, defogger, wiper etc running.

TKH:
Thanks. It sometimes happens when the AC is off. It has NEVER happened on the highway. It is when I get off the highway to an off road.
It first noticed it after a journey from Ibadan to Lagos. I had entered Lagos and encountered a traffic off the highway. It mostly happens when I am on a rough road, as if something is disconnecting.
I did the scan this morning. There were two codes: P0341 and P0135. Do they get us anywhere?

Fix the P0341 first. Clear the code, drive the car through rough terrain again and rescan. In case of transmission malfunction, it is advised to address all pending powertrain issues (especially electrical) first before attempting a repair.

You will need to have your live data analysed if it persists.

I will be very much interested in knowing how fluid could be responsible for those electrical codes.

Please share.

Prof325:
Please good evening everyone,i have a Golf v5 automatic transmission,i went through erosion of recent and now the car does not select when cold,that is it remains in gear one until it has been driven for like 5-10 minutes,please any solution would be highly appreciated.

First of all, see if the computer is commanding upshift when cold (I doubt it is).

TKH:
Dear Nairalanders, I drive a Honda Accord (EOD) 2003 Model auto-transmission. There is this somewhat frustrating and embarrassing issue that I have experienced for a long time. When driving slowly on a rough road, especially when the AC is on, the gear disengages. The gear stick is still on drive but you can feel that the gear has disengaged. Pressing the throttle only revs the engine without moving the car. I have to shift to park, turn of the engine, restart, and shift back to drive, and it continues driving normally. I may not experience the problem for an extended period, and at other times I may experience it a number of times during a particular drive. I seriously need your enlightenment about this issue as most of the mechanics that I have spoken to don’t seem to know what is wrong. Thanks.

Does it only happen intermittently when the AC is on and on rough road? As in, it NEVER happens when the AC is off, no matter how rough the road is?

Where is this car?

darejem2002:
Pls I don't know how u can help my church got one ford 450 E from overseas early last year but unfortunately d bus automatic transmission gear got burnt since den we have not got solution to d problem I don't know how u can help dis is my no 08062321002

What year? Better still, post VIN here.

GAZZUZZ:
Let me give others a chance.

Cc: Ochucko

Please help the op with a preliminary diagnosis and possible fault.

You too like wahala

Costee:
Since you have P0175, I want to presume your car is 3.5L engine. In that case the model of your cvt is RE0F09B. The first three codes are related to the transmission, and if yours is 3.5L then I'll suggest you tackle P1777 (Step Motor) first. Nissan does not sell it as component unit, rather they'll suggest you change the valve body of which it's a part. The step motor is also used in the the Maxima and Murano of the same years. It's possible too that the step motor for earlier Murano trannys (RE0F9A) may be compatible. I'm saying this because you might be lucky to source locally as Tokunbo. You could also contact Kashif on these boards, seems he can easily source these SMs.
If your Altima is 2.5L, then the primary focus will be P0710, the CVT Fluid Temperature Sensor.

Those codes are all electrical, and my guess is that it could be a common denominator failure. There is a way to confirm the SM electrical integrity, but I am inclined more towards a harness wahala.

OP, your codes point to electrical issues (lucky you!)

Etinosajay:
Autowiz, Kashif, and other experienced people in the house

My car is a Toyota Camry 2000.


My gear drives and shifts fine at 2000-3000 rpm max with the odometer reading visible. But after some driving, the odometer reading disappears and the gear starts to rev up to as much as 4000r and over and won't enter the next gear.

After parking and putting off the engine for a few hours and restarting the engine, the odometer reading appears again and the gear drives and shifts fine as before.

I don't know what's going on, what should I probably look at??

Have you scanned? I strongly believe you are having electrical issues.

onwards:
Salute!
Want to be like you when I grow up... Really.
Good thing about DIY is the confidence it instills into you when you finally get it right.

Took one year plus and you still stuck at it.
Salute once again!

Thanks.

Its been working since July last year. Just needed to undo something I did then (as a precautionary measure), and in the process, needed to get the valvebody out again.

HaBadMAN:
Thanks for the prompt reply.

He worked on the replacement transmission. I have not tested the Sport Mode drive, pretty sure its during 1-2 gear shift that the noise occurs.

Yes, the reverse is completely gone again.

Thanks

Drive it in sports mode and let us know. I will be interested in knowing what happens in 5-6 and S1. If your original transmission lost reverse, and replacement is doing same, are you sure something electrical is not inhibiting reverse? Have you scanned?

HaBadMAN:
Hello Mr Autowiz,

Please I need your advice. I have a 2010 Toyota Camry LE (4 plugs, Auto Transmission) and had the gearbox replaced recently.

I observed that once the gear is placed in reverse, the car wont move but the drive gears work fine. I was introduced to "Gearbox specialist" who said he could fix the problem that he had to to replace the reverse section of the earlier replaced gear.

He fixed it and it worked only for two weeks, now the reverse motion problem is back and with other problems.

When changing from first to second gear, the car make a loud thud sound as if the engine wants to fall out after which it moves smoothly.

Please I need to know what exactly is the issue and what is the prospective solution.

Thanks for anticipated response.

He worked on the replacement transmission or the original? It is a little confusing.

How does its sport mode drive? Are you sure it is 1-2 or 2-3 bang? If 1-2, how does 5-6 behave? Again, how does S1 drive? Have you lost reverse completely again? Lets see if we have a diagnosis?

I did mention that I increased the pressure in the transmission due to the fear of a possibly worn clutch. Saturday, I decided to return it to spec (I was hearing little engagement clunks).

On opening the drain plug, I was pleasantly surprised that the ATF was as pink as it was when I worked on this transmission. Could it be the elevated pressure holding the clutches and brakes tight, with minimal wear? Good to know!

On a side note, after dropping and adjusting the valve body, I coupled everything back, refilled fluid, reset adapts and it was time to test. Engaged reverse, there was no movement. Neutral, and there was a jerk, and there was forward movement! Drive - forward movement. Engaged reverse again, and there was forward movement! So, I had forward in all ranges! LOL! . So it clicked! I did not connect the manual valve. Very funny but a fundamental oversight. Wacked myself on the head!

Had to drain fluid, drop pan and VB again, just to connect the manual valve. After that punishment, everything was fine again. Thank God I kept that day to myself!

wickyyolo:
Stupid Kid. I can see you have never had such a clean sheet before

Your father (b@stards like you dont have anyway), your mother, and everything you represent are the stup!d ones!!! Look at this good for nothing product of accidental penile discharge calling his father stupid!! How dare you dimwit?? Id1ot like you!

You can type with a cheap phone, and you come on a faceless forum using probably bonus data to form. People like you will never amount to anything in life! You are cursed. Go get a life and stop deceiving yourself with demo account, or stolen screenshots.

Dont make me send kids after you! Anu ofia!!

wickyyolo:
In this life you just need to have connection and meet right people.

8 years don't mean you know everything.

okayy .... Im a loser in forex!

I don't have result to show you. I am not forcing anyone to believe me. .

They used to say that you cannot not make big money in forex and binary... But Elijah Oyefeso did it and started living large, and he did that under just 2 years.

Don't believe all you read, especially online! In forex, experience is the best teacher. With time, you will know that nobody will sell a working strategy. It is a simple logic. I am not arguing for its sake, but I am trying to save you from heart ache that will surely follow if this mindset remains spliced with you. Trade forex like you don't need the money, and then it will come. No matter what you read, you must find your own path in this business; ie if you see it as a career.

On this thread alone, we have seen many 'traders' come and go. Many shouting about profits and members secretly handed over their accounts to trade for them, and none of the accounts survived more than a month. Some were blown in a day!

I have had to check your Elijah Oyefeso up because I never heard about him. Just google him up and see, or maybe, start from there: http://forum.binaryoptions.net/discussion/2511/elijah-oyefeso-scam-warning

He is a scam.

wickyyolo:
you have been fed with lies.
let me leave you wallow in your mind of impossibility.

I cannot be 'fed' in forex. I have been a live trader for 8 years, and I KNOW what you posted is not achievable. I have been here from season 1.

Post your result here to prove me wrong! Make 50% of your balance daily and I will become your driver.

This is what your fellow greenhorns read and build false confidence.

priceaction:
Amazing things happen this week on my trading. I lost over 400% of my profits within 3 days while chasing trends up and down using my signals generated from laptop. Got burnt alot on fake signals and ranging markets. It was disastrous. I thought of given a break for weeks until yesterday focusing on only geppy 5mins/15 mins/30mins interchanging. At the end of my trading no single loss and I was able to recover 99% of my profit earlier lost. I am most lucky. The funniest thing was I traded yesterday only on phone without indicator just PA only.
I am focusing on something that will change the way I see fx and it will attract the whole world to me. This is not a joke. It is all about dedication and consistency. It is just a matter of 2 years more. And confidence with a bit of luck is building into it.

I warned peeps to take it easy with the market last week. It has been hunting accounts Good you are recovering your loss; congrats.

In another news, restless traders are losing their shirts!

wickyyolo:
There is a secret why Indicators work sometimes and sometimes they don't!

Brokers found the secret and that's what 90% brokers use to manipulate how indicators read the market.. I Thank God They cannot manipulate the market ... I noticed same phenomenon on FxPro, Alpari, 24Fx fxtm (most brokers around our region) yesterday.... noticed and dodged the bullet.!

Self Taught Education is the Best. I Thank Almighty God for this Secret!

Since i knew that secret i make atleast 50% profit everyday.



Hint: If you trade Below 1H or above weekly TF you will not be affected by this phenomenon..


Know the Truth and the truth shall set you free -- John 8:32

GOODLUCK Fellas!!!

.

Story.

orbis:
Thanks man. Toyota has offered to replace the torque converter at no added cost to me since its a manufacturers defect.

Good. That's where they should have started!

VeeVeeMyLuv:
learn the dance of the market
or better still, gance with the trend

Threads that have been 'reversing' and taking out stops at will? Trend and support lines that have been breached again and again? This period is for the market makers, simple.

You cannot always trade forex profitably. What happens this period is you lose back to back, only for the market to move in the direction you had expected. Then you stake higher, and the loss sets in again, and you say to yourself, "it is one of those; it will reverse again". Then margin call.

The greatest skill is knowing when to stay away!

Shalom

Whynow:
Thanks for prompt response.
It was very scary and could have hit the vehicle in front.
The hard bump can throw any one out of a window

What do you suggest I do , drain and clean filter? Or scan.
There are no CEL or malfunction codes on instrument cluster.

Please inbox me your garage address.
I wish no other person to touch my vehicle, especially at this time

The transmission does not have power of its own so, a surge at rest, without any tap on the throttle is not coming from the transmission, it was only responding to power from the engine (that is if I understand you correctly). The issue is not coming from the filter either, as clogged filter would result in slips/flares and no go. Drive it some more. It might just be a glitch.

Unfortunately, my hands are full now. I have responded to your email though.