₦airaland Forum

I need to see its crash test.

nurey:
I know that is the major work, but did you also know removing catalyst improves engine power may not be noticeable in small engines but it is noticeable in big engines.

Quotes from a certified engineer. What is the effect of removing catalyst

"Your car will run pretty rough. I would imagine your car was built after 1999, and so will have 2 lambda sensors. one before the catalyst, the other after (downstream). The downstream probe is designed to measure hydrocarbons AFTER the catalyst, which is now missing. Then it sends data back to your ECU, by which a fuel map is created. This will alter the duty cycle of your injectors (duration they remain open) thus regulating fuel use.
With your catalyst missing, your downstream lambda probe (Oxygen sensor) will feed your ECU wrong data, which will try to compensate your fuel trim. It will over fuel like mad. Too much fuel going into your cylinders, over a period of time, will cause engine damage, due to "bore wash". This is whereby excess fuel washes the vital oil lubrication from your cylinder bores, causing premature wear. Your engine will begin burning oil, resulting in high oil consumption, visible as blue smoke. Diluting petrol with oil will result in a very low octane, which couple with a hot operating environment, will cause detonation, which could lead to holes being blown into your piston crowns. Or worse, if severe enough, detonation occurring whilst your piston's on its compression stroke could bend a rod. This could cause a conrod and piston to smash through the side of your engine block.
So I'll ask you - is there any sensible reason to run your modern car without a catalyst? You honestly listen to your "mechanic" who thinks it's a good idea to delete it? Where did you hear removal of a catalyst decreases fuel consumption?

This is another link.
https://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20071005173535AAaB28v

You may be right and you may be wrong because how it affects fuel consumption is actually cumbersome/complicated and not straight forward. But I noticed it affects the civic currently because I compared the consumption with an I4 06 Accord same distance but the way the civic fuel Guage moved is same as my V6 sienna.

I did not say removing converter improves economy either. I have been driving my car without catalyst for over two years, and the economy remains excellent. Only a slight exhaust howl. There was a time the economy got bad because a coil failed. Fixed it and the fuel trim returned to normal. Engine runs smoothly.

If your Civic dey chop fuel, check the cause. Do some volumetric efficiency test. See some answers in the link below (though I am not a fan of all these internet 'experts').

https://www.quora.com/How-true-is-it-that-a-catalytic-converter-reduces-the-fuel-consumption-in-a-car

nurey:
According to you, according to known fact it does affect fuel consumption. Even I know that as one of my car has catalyst missing and the fuel consumption is greater a 2000 civic to be precise.

It's what I have experience am saying

Catalysts only convert carbon monoxide to carbon dioxide. That is the known fact. If your car without catalyst is guzzling fuel, something else is responsible. Have it checked.

nurey:
What I mean is removing catalyst and soldering the exhaust straight with empty pipe, without use of spacers. So am I still correct or wrong?

My point is that catalyst does not affect fuel consumption. Its job is emission control. O2 sensor spacer is secondary, which if not installed, will just trigger MIL.

nurey:
Your solution lacks weight and proper presentation.

What was done to the catalyst? We need to know, how it was resolved and possible cause of damage given by the engineer. So others can learn from it.

As you said it's catalyst if it was removed, then you only have to contend with high fuel consumption, if it was blocked with rubbish then start a savings account cause the engine will go kaput like atomic bomb falling on Hiroshima and Nagasaki.

The recommended solution to catalyst is outright replacement

The bolded is not correct.

Whizpeter:
It ain't illegal... The type and quality of road determines the speed limit...

Nigerian roads don't even need speed limit signs... The roads are enough to limit your speed...!

LOL

solomonawotide:
Dear Kashif,

I have not scanned again since I came back to Lagos. The sluggishness is evident after shifting to gear 3 while about to climb the hills. The sluggishness did not stop till I got to Lagos but the hills from Ore to Lagos are not as high as asaba -Benin road. When the gear is cold, it jerks when I shift to reverse position.

Scan again. If your tech can look at live transmission data, it will be helpful.

copiescopy:
the mechanic did add close to 4 litres of the normal oil

I did a flush twice with 10 cans of DW1 some 6 days later .. that's 5 cans on two different occasions .

The razor and hose theory . what i meant to say was that when the hose was slashed by the sharp object . the mech simply used razor to cut one side off and fixed one end back to the pipe that supplies transmission into the gear box .

I will have to visit the mechanic shop this noon for a pic . and have a clear view of the pipe i am referring to . But please any sound advise on what to do ? till now the gear only enagages on reverse and take time to engage into reverse like pressure thing you talked about is involved

Are you sure you are not still losing fluid? Confirm ATF level before anything else. I dont understand why a cooler line should be sagging in the first place, exposing it to that cut. Lets wait for your picture. Peace.

JAkpayen:
Well done! DoroBad on your trades.

USD is expected to make gain from the NFP today.

Looooong time boss!

solomonawotide:
Thanks for your time. Kashif,

The codes initially was P0016 and P0746 and P0776 but by then I have flares on shift 3 but after that I decided to change the atf the second time but to oem recommended t-iv and bought a new filter and couple with the fact that the gear man clean up the filter second time. After I used the car to travel to the East, the flare stops but on my way back to Lagos the car became sluggish while climbing the hills especially on Asaba to Benin road.

Have you scanned again? Do you know in which gear the sluggishness is evident? Filters dont cause flares in a particular range. So, after Asaba-Benin road, the sluggishness stopped? I am just trying to determine if your problem is actually in the transmission.

GAZZUZZ:
There are no benefits, you will not achieve any gains in mileage or engine protection.

It is drain on your pocket.

It is a scam.

Sooooooooooo on point! A friend of mine lost his job and the first cussion he found was selling this product. He approached me and I explained its uselessness but, to help a brother I bought one. Thank God he has since stopped.

GAZZUZZ:
hope the catalyst is not blocked?

In addition, a faulty TPS or Accelerator pedal sensor could also cause that.

copiescopy:
oga Gazzuz .

Pls help me with the proper advise ... my EOD 2004 transmission has been perfect as i have been using DW for close to a year and no issues .. some day before xmas eve i passed through a very rough road and the supply hose UNDERNEATH was cut into two by a sharp object or stone this made the transmission oil to spill out . immediately the hose cut someone noticed it and i had to stop the car immediately.

luckily there was mechanic shop closeby. the guy i met there told me the hose has been split due to it dangling so used razor and cut to size then fixed it to the pipe which fitted in again . he asked me the kind of oil I normally use .i told him clearly that its dw1 .but at that particular point it was getting late no where I could get dw1 and i needed to get the car home .so he suggested I use the normal atf oil then maybe on Monday after Xmas holiday i will then drain and put in my normal dw 1.

after putting in the normal transmission oil the car was normal till after xmas and some days back just after boxing day i noticed the gear began to slip . I had to go get the normal oil that i have been using .and flushed the other oil out . but then i noticed the same thing was happening . and the d light began to blink as i was on drive .

to cut the long story short i was trying to take the car back to the mechanic to explain the development when the entire gear stopped working . it doesn’t engaged on drive except on reverse gear. the mechanic having known the car understood that it was the oil that was messing up again had to drive the car on reverse to his shop and we had to do a second flushing for a second day . in between these two day I have used 10 1 quartz of DW each can is 3,500 and the gear is still slipping . it doesn’t engage in the drive up till now . i have left the car at the mech shop since yesterday .

I am troubled and worried as i have spent roughly enough close to 40k just to flush and i dont want to keep spending more on what I am not sure of . I was beginning to think maybe the last oil has done some damages to the transmission or if the gear will still pick and start engaging like my mechanic was assuring me . I am in real confused state . please a quick and urgent advise is needed as I am in pains not been able to use the car since yestrday .

Because of the typical nature of Honda transmissions, they are very ATF-sensitive. You made a mistake adding that 'normal' oil. What quantity was added?

You said you have flushed many times, how was it done? Or were you referring to drain and refill?

I do not fully understand the 'razor on hose' procedure. That must be a cooler line that was ruptured. Can you explain more? A picture would help. I think you are dealing with pressure loss.

Aladine:
My mechanic in Abuja rebuilds gear box..i had an issue with my corolla 2012 gear box and every place was shouting change until i got to him..he discovered it was a wiring/electrical issue and rebuilt it in 3days..he evem gave me a 3months guarantee..this is more than 3 months and i have been enjoing it..people are really good..dont know where he got his training sef

Transmissions with electrical issues dont need a rebuild. You just correct the fault.

The term 'Rebuild' is used when a transmission is dropped, and all soft parts, and some damaged/worn parts replaced. Most times, the torque converter is replaced. In your case, your transmission was not rebuilt.

Congratulations!

snipesdam:
Wells

Thanks man I called two good electricians in PH and they both told me check the fuses. So opened up the fuse box in the engine room, pulled out the small fuses 10, 15 and 30amps one after another checking them and adding a wire to it if necessary. So I identified two fuses which when pulled out the CHECK ENGINE AND BATTERY light goes off. I think that's where the issue was coming from. So fastened it back in tight.

This was done with the ignition On so I could isolated the trouble fuse.

Drove around for 15mins no issues. Am back to base for hustling in PH. NO issues on the road.

Thanks for all your contributions.

Note it was never a ground cable issue.

Appears you are getting a hang on it, but I dont think it is uhuru yet. If you flip the fuse box cover, you will see the ID of all the fuses.

If you need to replace any fuse, ensure you use the exact rating. No wires. Good luck!

solomonawotide:
The symptoms are: it is sluggish when climbing. It starts on gear 1 and changes to 2 and 3 but as soon as I want to climb, it becomes sluggish but that is the way I drove it to the East and back to Lagos.
I bought new atf oem t-iv and changed it before I traveled to the East. So where can I service the VB.

Thanks.

What is the ECU commanding? Do you have flares? (as if the car goes to nuetral)?

When lockup is commanded, the ECU leans out fuel supply. This happens at higher ranges. If there is engine performance problem, it could be mistaken for transmission problem. Scan and post any code(s) here.

Costee:
Isn't this my original observation, which you queried? At any rate whatever defects there are , are usually manifested in valve body failure.

What were the complaints, and how was it determined to be caused by inadequate power handling capacity of the transmission? Any TSB? I will personally blacklist Nissan if you can prove this. It means they dont know what they are doing.

Not all transmission issues are VB related. First generation U660 found in 2008 up Toyota V6 had problems with its centre bearing. Honda suffered dydraulic feed pipe pullouts, etc.

VB modification alone cannot handle increased engine torque. You said they had to modify VB; that is what I cant wrap my head around.

solomonawotide:
Hello Kashif

Well done. My Toyota camry 2005 has similar transmission problem after atf change. The car started misbehaving. I scanned it and got P0746 and P0776. The atf level was low. But I went to a transmission expert in Ladipo and I was told it is the valve body problem. I needed to travel with the car to the east for the new year, so I bought oem atf at ridiculous price of 31k to be sure I would not roast the gear. I successfully went and came back to Lagos but with difficulty. I need your advice on how to get the problem solved. Please advise. Solomon

What are the symptoms? If your ATF is dirty already, just servicing the VB alone will not cure it, as it will get recontaminated.

Costee:
There's always a first time . But seriously, I don't think it's coincidence that from 2006 when Nissan dumped the RE5F22A for their own CVT transmission, the hp in the three cars has been on corresponding increase. That in the 2017 Maxima has gone as high as 300hp@6400rpm; the last time there was a 3.5L Altima was in 2012, and it had 270hp@6000rpm; the 2016 Quest has 260hp@6000rpm. I just can't run away from the hunch that the VQ preferred to relate with the RE5F22A at some lower level.
PS. An updated version of the valve body was released from 2006.

Granted that transmissions are built to handle specific torques, I dont see that happening in valvebody alone. What is usual is to have increased clutches, pinions, larger drums, pistons, etc. Yes, the RE5F22A may have been inadequate, but the corrsction will not be in the VB. That is the same transmission in Volvo XC90 of same year, though with different name. Volvo deployed advanced programming/strategy, making it possible for the Transmission to drive in different modes on its own. Its all about tuning and calibration.

Jatco's CVTs are not more reliable than ATs, as they are plaqued by pressure regulator bore wears. Traditionally, mate a high power engine to a wrong transmission, and have it smoked. That should be Powertrain 101.

I have seen vehicle burn rebuilt transmission again and again. Then it was suggested that the ECU calibration be checked. It was found that the tuning had been altered, unlocking more ponnies than the tranny was built for! My point is - it is better to tune the power down, than updating VB. The update in the VB must have been for something else, not power handling.

Costee:
The 2004-2009 Nissan Quest has a 3.5L VQ engine mated with two transmission types. One is 4-speed produced by JATCO (owned by Nissan) which was used on models between 2004 and 2006. The other is 5-speed produced by AISIN AW (partially owned by Toyota) which was used on models between 2004 and 2009. The Aisin AW transmission, known as RE5F22A, is also used in the Maxima (2004-2006) and Altima (2005-2006). Unfortunately, the valve body in this transmission appears to be underpowered to run high hp generated by the VQ engine. The 2004-2006 Maxima, with 265hp@5800rpm, became most infamous for this defect. The 2005-2006 Altima, with 260hp@5800rpm, became unpopular also though not as much as the Maxima. The Quest did not so much experience these transmission issues. Here’s why:
2004-2006: 240hp@5800rpm
2007-2008: 235hp@5800rpm
2009: 230hp@rpm.
The fact is Nissan got wise after 2006. They discontinued the use of the REF522A transmission both for the Maxima and Altima and progressively reduced the hp in the Quest. In sum, the transmission was more successful in the Quest for the obvious reason that it had a lower hp. If the Quest you are proposing to buy is 5-speed there’s a possibility (not certainty) of a valve body issue later. But then if it’s a high mileage car the issue may have been addressed by the/a previous owner.

Hearing this for the first time - valvebody mishandling torque in REF522A? How is that?

There is 'overdrive clutch' that connects the ICE to the wheels (a dumb design for me because you cannot use the ICE power at take off). There is 'counter shaft'. There are 'gear ratios'. And yet they say there is no 'transmission' ? How does the car reverse?

Story.

Intermittent problems could be a pain in the butt even for a seasoned tech.

Many factors could be responsible for this. A man who is at home with auto electricals needs to spend some time on the car, starting with the fuse boxes.

Good luck.

shotuns:
My car has been running like this for over 4 years, radiator was disconnected from the transmission because water get mix with oil all the time.. I'd love to know more about this or should I say I am more interested in how to by pass the trans oil cooling through the radiator by installing an additional auto transmission cooler.

Like you have been advised, get external cooler.

RazaqMB:
thanks for this. Well it's a 2000 camry and the tyres that came with it is a 205/65/r15 so after doing a little calculation I found out that the total diameter of the tyre is 64.75cm but with either of the tyres above, I found out that in order to avoid body touch my best bets were either 225/50/r17 which has Total diameter of 65.68cm or 205/55/r17 which has a total diameter of 65.73 which is roughly 1cm different from the stock so I probably won't have body touch issues.my main concern is the tyre burst issue because I see some accords, camrys, bmws with 225/50/r17 and hardly hear tyre bust

It is best to use recommended tyre sizes but if you must change it, ensure you do not alter the width size which in your case is 205. Leave that number alone. Reduce it and reduce stability. Increase it and increase fuel consumption and body touch.

Reduced tyre wall comes with increased pressure, which in turn brings rough ride with it. Driving along bumpy roads will be unforgiving. There is higher risk of deforming the tyre and rim if you run into a ditch. It however comes with a low rollover risk in case of a blowout. It should be cheaper I think.

justfash50:
My Hyundai. ix35 just clocked 90K.

A lot of issues? Like what

Thanks, I await your response.

Those codes are transmission related, affecting different ranges. I have seen transmissions come down at 30,000 miles or even less.

You can use a capable scan tool to determine to a large extent, what could be responsible for your excessive fuel consumption. Before that, you can check how your MAF is behaving. At an RPM of 700, the gms of your MAF should be same as the engine displacement. If it is off mark, you may want to start from there. This can only be seen via live PID.

Now, hunting for the performance culprit... you will need to know what your total fuel trim is reading realtime. Graph it while raising your engine RPM to 3000. If it starts at a little above zero and stays there while your RPM rises to 3000, you have wrong fuel or flow. If it goes from below zero but does not hit zero, you have a torn diaphram. If it moves from above zero up, you have low fuel volume. If it shuttles between + and - at take off, but peaks above zero, check air metering. If it goes from above zero to zero, there is vacuum leak.

Also check for any misfire count. Many performance issues will not throw up any code.

jidabod:
I have been able to adjust the dashboard light when external lights come on but that of the radio is still very dim whenever the headlight is up.

Is there something I'm not doing right Sir?

Mine has a lock at the brightest end of the knob. If pushed beyond that extreme, it enteres into lock and all dash lights including radio stay bright when the external lights come on. Check if its same with yours.

jidabod:
Good day all,

My dashboard light and radio goes very dim whenever the headlight is on.

What could be wrong please?

Kindly advise on possible fix.

Car Type: Honda Accord DC

Use the adjuster. Lock it if you do not want the them dimming when the external lights come on.

Gbengageorge:
Bros check your catalyst, it must have been stolen.That's the no. 1 reason for abnormal fuel consumption. Check it out and thank me later.

Abeg, make una dey take am easy with all these 'diagnosis'.