₦airaland Forum

Where is tom29reloaded?

For real, forex is indeed sweet. Wish something happened much earlier.

I see a lot of SL hits here. Please, always wait for 'out of equilibrum' trades. USD is costly now....biko....

nurey:
Just buy the HARLEY DAVIDSON brand and you will have peace of mind its the same bike the biker mice from mars use and they always triumph over their enemies

LOL!

@OP, Honda or Suzuki will do, but I would prefer Suzuki. Stay away from Bajaj if you want durability.

mxxpunkxx1:
Take your hate somewhere else, I'm too busy to play father !

Chill. Both of you are right; just a misunderstanding...

Where?

iheanyiebeneze:
Forex Market trade levels(PRICE ACTION) and even if goes against you by few pips, it MUST sure come back to that level before the end of the day. It a professional way of trading.

A very costly attitude when it does go wrong. There is nothing professional in opening multiple trades in the same pair, unles you trade micro account with a 2k USD balance or more. You can imagine if you were short on CHF on the 15th of January. You should be hiding from you broker now... nothing is cast in stone when it comes to forex. Anything can happen.

Failing pump will affect all gears - forward, reverse, overdrive, etc.

a N ->R shift should take about 1.5 seconds for you to feel the shock. We may be looking at a case of reverse clutch failure. I am not in any way an expert, but I have some experience.

Nope it did not. I asked the tech to stop when it became obvious he was grappling with the issue. My ECU was reprgramed and re-installed. The test drive went well. I need to flog the vehicle on extended highway before establishing my satisfaction.

Worthy of mention is that I noticed one or two functional restorations already.

iheanyiebeneze:
Usually you enter 3 or 4 trades in one pair and ride it down or up as the case may be, you exit as support or resistant levels are reached. Finally your last trade should hit your take profit . That's the professional way of trading. CAPISH

Scary, what traders a fed here.....what if the trades go against you??

Friends, before you take any reckless trade, please remember how much the dollar now goes for.

I have taken the fewest trades in the last six weeks than I have ever done in my trading career but, I have made the highest profit ever! I think the fewer, the merrier.

Make money, keep money, make money again!

Peace.

GAZZUZZ:
Brand new or toks?

GAZZ, I need to speak to you urgently. Your line is off.

Your observations agree with mine. I bought petrol from Mobil Maryland some time ago, and thought something has gone wrong with my car. The thing practically evaporated! I am not talking about dispense calibration, but PMS quality. Some have very low octane number, and I think Mobil takes the lead.

I always buy from Total, and it lasts.

Yes.

The signs will always be there. Watch out for sluggish cranking. Lights a little dim at engine idle. Wiper and AC blower slowing down at engine idle, etc.

My battery has never died on me. I would get a new one and put in the booth when these signs show up. The thing dies about two weeks after. Just be a little more observant.

egorov:
Yea, thank. That was d same thing my mechanic did for d gear to move to D, I'm waiting while he's trying to check it, itss camry 08, but do u have any idea wht caused that?

There is nothing to fix! It happens, and thats why the manufacture put the release knob. The park pawl got stuck somehow. Just drive your car home.

GAZZUZZ:
Brand new or toks?

Both.

What car is that? There is always an unlock knob near the 'P' position. You will need to open the cover/lid to access it. press it down and the selector will move out of 'P'. It happens.

Another transmission installed, and problem persists. This has been narrowed down to the TCM.

I really regret the death of the first replacement transmission. A very sweet box

Now, I need to get where this vehicle is!!

Any idea how much this ECU costs?

Because you have asked nicely.....

Ndi maara zaa biko = Those in the know should answer please.

Igbo kwenu! etc = Greetings in Igboland

O tegokwa ezigbo aka mbiadebere ebe a! = Its been a very long while I visited this thread

Used is more like it. Not sure he will be willing to part with 650k to buy a new one. Issues with that CVT........

eightsin:
A friend from Isuikwuato in abia state just made that statement that Isuikwuato people don't marry deltans and I'd like to find out how true.

Ndi maara zaa biko.

Igbo kwenu! Rienu!! Ñuonu! Kachaanu! O tegokwa ezigbo aka mbiadebere ebe a! Chai!

lomomike:
Go buy new gearbox.

As in, brand new gearbox?

mayor2013:

back to gloat?

GAZZUZZ:
Tales that begin to touch the heart[img]http://t1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTuEgKWKuzP9ZeHyzCOV22Ka6XU07qGXauAI2A-9UFkYg72B30AZIo7DF7j[/img]

Really?

Another transmisson is being installed at the moment. With this my experience, I am inclined to train as an auto transmission rebuild expert. Can't understand why there is none in Lagos.

GAZZUZZ:
Where is your car located?

Festac Lagos.

After all the attempts, the new tech has come up with a verdict: Seller should send another transmission! I really love the sound of this transmission. Still don't know why this should happen.

There is a twist as I have today discovered: Seller sourced from a primary seller, as he did not have it in stock. Primary seller claims his transmission was in good condition. story for the gods!!!

Very funny this seller might even have the transmission, but because it did not come from a Rav4, 'he does not have it'.

Tomorrow would be snake in the monkey shadow reloaded!

ubiquitousade:
thanks you, i have made a comment in your thread so we dont derail this thread

Check the thread again.

This is to whom it may concern.

I have bought cars from Cotonou, but never really bothered to dig into the genuinety of odometer readings. Recently however, I have discovered that those Lebanese are criminals.

When I noticed that a car bought from there early last year had a different record on the title certificate than that on the odometer, it got me thinking. I realised that the title certificate should help in determining if the odometer reading has been tampered with.

When it was time for me to buy my last car, I insisted on viewing the title certificate of any one I intend to pay for. And as I had thought, about five of the cars I checked (a friend also needed a car) failed this test! Some dealers would decline bringing out the certificate, claiming they are not with it.

Well, I was looking for a vehicle with very strict spec, and by the time I eventually found it in the evening, having covered virtually all the parks in Cotonou, I was very tired. It was the only one that met the spec, after visiting there two times! I did not ask for the certificate; the odometer had 103,000 on it. For the 15K/year assumption, it checked out. I was actually willing to accept any minor defect, even though it had none (I normally would not). Later, the car came back, and the title certificate showed 148,000 as the last odometer reading!

Fast forward to last week. My cousin wanted a Highlander or Venza, and planned to go to Cotonou. I told her to insist on seeing the title certificate before commiting to any vehicle (her agent did not know about this check; was happy to learn). With that, they were surprised that all the vehicles they would have bought had odometer rollback. Due to a combination of this, and very limited options, they ended up visiting Cotonou for three consecutive days! (vehicles were being offloaded).

Eventually, they got this 2011 Highlander with the odometer reading 73,000. With the certificate, there was an agreement. Happily, they paid.

When the vehicle came in later that week, I just reluctantly decided to run it through Autocheck. I burst into cold sweat at what I saw - 268,000+ miles! What could have happened?? Was Autocheck wrong? Did they forge the certificate, or was the odometer adjusted before it was shipped? How could a 3/4 year old vehicle have high mileage when there is no record of rent? Interestingly, the title certificate was not included in the document delivered!

It was a rude shock! That is why I say, BE VERY CAREFUL WITH COTONOU PURCHASES. Its not the agents, but the sellers!

***Note: all odometer readings above are rounded to the nearest thousand.

GA pip value now is unattractive....targeting a swoop sell.....

I have a good multimeter, but it is in the car, and the car is far from me at the moment. Something must happen this weekend anyways!

IdaraCHODB:
Having read some opinions above, I have an alternative viewpoint.
I would say don't dismiss electrical fault as of yet P0766 is clearly an electrical fault relating to a shift solenoid.
I had a similar problem, although I never flushed my transmission and I think it is just not worth it to flush a transmission.
I replaced one transmission for another - the same problem cam back two weeks later.
Two codes - one that had to do with the input speed sensor and one that had to do with a shift solenoid.
I replaced the input speed sensor and the code went away but the one that had to do with the shift solenoid refused to go. Then after some days that input speed sensor died and I had to replace it with another, I knew something was wrong!
I went to a mechanic and asked him for a specialist in repairing electrical faults in the transmission but he gave me no reasonable suggestions other than that I should remove the thermostat that overheat is causing the components inside the transmission to fail; I went to the parts seller, he said time to change the transmission, but I ignored him; I also went to my preferred transmission repair shop and they told me I had an electrical fault (but I choose to disbelieve/disagree, especially since I have had a prior experience with their ecu/transmission electronics specialist who is as proud as he is gifted, and did I not just replace the transmission which worked well for 2 weeks and then kaput!), so I went to alldatadiy and it explained why I am having the codes.
After severally trying to find a car electrician that would be willing to use the printed alldatadiy guides to isolate the problem and failing because as soon as they heard transmission, they opted out of working with me, I decided to fix the problem myself. The problem was I have ordered for a professional level multimeter but it is not yet here so I was to some extent flying blind!
I spent a week, draining the ATF, replacing various shift solenoids all by myself, allowing the ATF to cool, tearing it apart again, changing the input speed sensor, dropping and cleaning the valve body without any improvement, then I decided, so how much time I have taken away from my business? This has got to stop!
That is when I went to the transmission repair shop the second time (hiding my face in shame sort of, well kidding) and then went back to the foreman to complain ( as if I did not know its an electrical fault, and is if I don't know the electrical guy myself)
I was then directed to him
The first day he spent nearly 6 hours troubleshooting the problem before deciding something is wrong with the wires that carry commands to and from the transmission to the ecu, by this time it was almost 5pm and I had to leave, he asked me do I want to go with the car or do I want to bring it back, I choose to bring it back.
The next week I brought the car and he and his team had after nearly 6 hours of carefully tracing cables that ran to the ECU from the transmission found and resolved the work.
He refused to tell me what he did to solve it, but I already know because alldatadiy told me. Do I really need to know how to do it? If I know what the problem is and who can solve it? That was the question on my mind after 1 week of trial and failure viz a viz the economic cost of DIY versus handing over to a professional.
Honestly, if you were in the car and heard the way it would change gears you would swear it was a mechanical fault. I also nearly swore I had a bad transmission BUT as it turns out the car is a delicate machine with a sensitive interplay of mechanical, hydraulic and even electronic/electrical components.
I would not after the above humbling lesson denigrate any lead until I solve the problem! It might be electrical afterall!!
Possible causes
- Low transmission fluid level
- Dirty transmission fluid
- Faulty shift solenoid 'D' valve
- Shift solenoid 'D' valve harness or connectors
- Shift solenoid 'D' valve circuit is open or shorted
Read more: http://engine-codes.com/p0766.html#ixzz3RXNMwYMD

Thanks for sharing this. I also believe there is some electrical problem somewhere. I have the repair manual of this transmission, and there is no complete match of what I am experiencing with it!

A transmission was working before the car was accidented. This transmission was installed in my car and gets fried?

@IdarCHODB, can I have the contact of your specialist, just in case?

DECOtech:
You shold not have allowed your transmission fluid to get burnt in your car before flushing it.
You would have to get it rebuilt or buy another transmission.
You still got your self a defective transmission. Return it if you can and collect another one. ask the dealer to give you his own installer in a case where your own installer keeps doing something wrong.

I am not careless with cars. Something acute came upon the car. If you had read through my posts, you would see that I am using the seller's preferred tech. Do you rebuild transmission BTW?