₦airaland Forum

flagship:
Thanks. Isn't there a brand name for the ATF?

It's a 1.8L TSI. I have the original documents from manufacturer.

No brand name

The upholstery guy tried without been there I would rate it 80%. The material used is quality. He did well

rdchk:
Alrite, I hope they are located in Lagos?

Yes located in lagos

When we tell them the engine needs to be changed they start frowning their faces like we doing them some strong thing

rdchk:
Thanks for your help, you are right because my c300 seems to be more full option that most 2013 model have seen around, it's actually from Canada. My main concern is that the problem is not showing on the dashboard which is very strange to me. I'm thinking fuse too but what do I know when am not a Benz Mechanic but with your help I think I can check through the steps before giving it out for repair. I actually don't mind the repair as long as what the mechanic is doing is right. Once more thanks, I really appreciate your help.

If you need it fixed call multi autolab on 08165520837 or 08156087872

rdchk:
Lekki

Let's start with the basis. Check fuses first to start with and ensure you do not have a broken fuse. That's what the steering lock module looks like

Note: yours might differ on a 2013 Benz c300

rdchk:
Yes that was the only fault error concerning the steering, others were the ac and the front light which has been fixed but hasn't been cleared from the record. Do you mean I have to change the steering lock? Do you have any idea of how much it would cost? Plz advice on what to do so I won't have to pay free money. Thanks for the reply!

The fix won't come cheap. I do not have any idea of the price. Best is to have it fixed by a professional. Steering lock would need to be resyncronize after fixing a new one. Where is the location of this ride

Your mechanic is a Learner. Steering lock has failed. You need to have it changed and after that relearned back with its control unit. You are lucky in some cases car wouldn't even start. Was that the only fault error you had when scanned?

Professionals on this platform still have more engines to fix before the year runs out. I hope you won't squeeze your face when you are given a bill. We are only in the month of August

mat2lock:
Please i need the details of a competent BM mechanic in Lagos, would really appreciate it if one can be recommended to me.

Call multiautolab on 08156087872 or 08165520837

deathwing:
1.8tsi

I also need to find genuine g12 coolant for it. Currently not driving it because I don't want to risk moving with water inside it. The manual warns strongly against it.

You should have a 2.0 L capacity engine not a 1.8L

Your recommended transmission fluid is ATF G055025A2

Double silencer. E good but is your pocket ready

scejeagui:
The electrician has checked the fuel box inside the bonnet but didn't dictate any fault.
What again can be the fault why the car refused to start?
CC: cyborg123

The electrician hasn't checked properly yet. Let him check main fuse.which is under hood inside the ipdm(intelligence power distribution module) aka fuse box. It has multiple of fuse inside. Let him bring it out and inspect properly. If this fuse is broken nothing on your car would work

segzyndpep:
Am actually ordering it from usa myself although through a dealer bt i will surely check the history before payment..i travel like 2 times in a month from ilorin to lagos..it will be a personal/family car because am getting married in few months.

Regular maintenance is the watch word

segzyndpep:
Thank you so much sir..i am actually buying a toks and still you advice i shoukd get a professional to scrutinize it..am more scared here right now.am a young man that just love something different..please kindly advice if i should not go for it..thinking between the acura and hyundai sonata 2011/2012.thanks

The Acura is perfect. Are you looking at it for a family use or personal use. It would serve for both purposes. I still advice you get an unbiased engineer check it out. What these so-called dealers bring in as toks my mouth can't tell

segzyndpep:
Please nairaland car gurus please whats your take on acura mdx 2008,is there anything that i need to know
about the suv am considering getting one soon.

Nice ride. Imbibe the services of an unbiased professional engineer to help you scrutinize the ride properly before final payment. Good luck on your prospective new ride

Inception:
What modules if I may ask? The issue here is the car not starting, strongly implying a powertrain issue. This localizes the problem to the only one module: the ECU and everything it controls/manages(since we are talking Toyota here and not BMW). There are therefore 3 possibilities here: Bad Ecu fuse, Bad Alternator fuse or bad ECU. Following the explanation of the OP, (where there is a short of that kind, It is very likely that the Alternator fuse will go out first, then the Ecu fuse before such wahala gets to the ECU itself. It is called 'Failsafe'

Another possiblilty could be the immobilizer if the car is equipped with one.

I disagree with your last paragraph. If such is always the case then why do we have cases of fried ecu. Your statement doesn't apply to all cars. Some ecu producers make use of zender diodes( voltage protection device) i.e two diodes connected back to back.which helps to forestall any reversed polarity of current coming in

castrokins:
Hi Guys,
I Drive A VW Beetle (99 Model), 2.0L V4. I'd Been Using A Hankook Sealed Battery Since 2014 Until About A Month Ago When A Friend Borrowed It, Only To Return With Dead Cells.

On 3/8/2017 I Bought A New Battery Called Magnet, 62ahm.

My Worry Is That I Realized Yesterday The Battery Heats Up When I Drive And This Was Never Noticed When I Had The Hankook. Although I Never Bothered To Check Specifications On The Hankook, I Had No Such Concerns With It.

Again, I Had My Engine Block Re-sleeved And To Do It, Engine Had To Be Dropped And All. Upon Recoupling, The Dashboard Lights Goes On And Off When I Drive. I Have Had My Electrician Check The Fuse Box, But He Could Only Advised That The Car Be Scanned.

Please I Need Your Advise.

Thank You.

What amperage rating was your hankook battery? I advice you get a 75amps battery as compared to 62amps you have. I also hope your battery ventilation has not been blocked there is a small hole for ventilation on your battery. Have it checked for blockage. As for your cluster light going on and off. Check your electrical connection

tjsadiq:
The transmission fluid was already black.

Replacement of gearbox. Any thing outside this is a waste of resources. Sorry about this

Inception:
Scanning won't solve this oga. The ECU cannot be accessed for codes in this kind of situation.

Check engine light comes up now on first ignition. But there's a much more different way of scanning with this Linda of case

Your mechanic is a Learner. Putting the cart before the horse. You are on your way to buying another gearbox. Bear that in mind. What's the colour of your transmission fluid to start with

Lexit:
Thanks all. We later discovered that the brain box works after changing one of the fuses. The check light comes up now when rolled. But the problem that still persists is that the car cranks well but not starting. Different technicians around the place have checked but can't find the reason the car is not starting. The car has been scanned and no error code.
Cc: Nurey, Gazzuzz, honmusa

A different approach is used when scanning cars that don't start. Bear that in mind. So expect no fault error for now

Location of this ride

Location of your ride

Location of car?

bomb:
Was checking a friends ride, I discovered that the ABS pump was bypassed. The pipes that were to enter the pump was connected to a Tbox. ABS and ESP is on on the dash. What are the effects? What possible solution?

Prone to accident. I do not pray for that

jpride:
Recently i noticed that my car acceleration is bad. It accelerates fine when it wants to but at a point it just stop. It will look as if the trottle is not even raising. It will sound as if there is no fuel but there is fuel. It sometimes pick from there again or engine goes off. What could be the problem? Please help me. I changed the fuel pump, it worked when i test run but after some hours, same problem return. Its disgracing me heavily especially in heavy traffic. Please help me

Run a powertrain scan first. Post result(s) here

Something caught my attention on this ride. The oil filler cap is mounted on the inlet manifold plenum and oil goes in through this same place. Perhaps a section has been blocked within so as not to allow oil go into the cylinder

Left rear wheel hub pulled out. A lot of dirt stocked blocking the impulse ring preventing abs wheel speed sensor from picking signals from the wheel hub when transmission is shifting

Test drove this ride on Monday and found out that the transmission has gone into limp mode. Ran a diagnostic scan and no fault was found on transmission. But we had the following codes:

C1011- left front wheel speed sensor signal erratic performance

C2100- battery voltage low

C1014- left front wheel speed comparative performance

C1035- right rear wheel speed comparative performance

C1015- right front wheel speed sensor circuit

ABS, ESP and BAS light illuminated on cluster

Patented:
lol, can't help the grammar.

However experiences differ. I know a guy whose car had metal shavings yet he serviced the gear and used it for abt 2 more years before he sold it. did not have issues within the 2 year period.

Noted

Where is that garrium sulphite with those shinny groundnuts