myners007: The replaced radiator was as a result of leakage and it was replaced with a double cell belgium one . Currently i barely move the car around for fear of damaging the gasket.
I think replacement radiator is faulty. Do you mean a Naija used double cell; don't know of toks double-cell radiators but could be wrong.
myners007: Please i need advice on how to resolve a challenge of increasing temperature of My 2007 v6. The temperature guage ussualy rise to the middle level barely minutes after kick off.I took the car down to a radiator mechanic and he advised that i get a new radiator and that the one inside is expired. The radiator of the car was changed replaced with a belgium one this January and i wonder why would the radiator be replaced in such a short period of time.I also observed tremendous rise in the temperature whenever the ac is switched on.
connkg: Didn't you just create a problem? The middle of the temperature gauge is a good sign. Did you explain your fear to the "radiator mechanic" properly? Radiator expired? I think you developed a problem from nothing...
Cc: adanny, piyke...
Additional information required... Before going to the radiator mech, are you saying your coolant temperature always stays around the middle of the gauge? Just before the centre line is perfect.
If your previous radiator did not have leaks, temperature gauge was in the range I stated and car had no overheating episodes, I am afraid the radiator change was totally unnecessary. Kazeems always market changing a good single-cell radiator to double-cell. I received a ton of that marketing, even when mine was leaking and I was in the market for a replacement single cell. Finally got a brand new single cell... Story for another day (its on my YouTube channel though)
OP please define "tremendous temperature rise when AC is switched on". Again, I think Kazeem replaced your radiator with double-cell, removed thermostat and wired your cooling fans direct. When this evil procedure is conducted, the coolant temperature will always sit around a quarter of the gauge and only increase further when the AC is turned on.
Could also be you have air in the cooling system or bought a compromised "Belgium" radiator. We need more details..
Connkg I agree that this may well be a problem developed from nothing.
It's an inner tie rod removal tool. Comes handy in some models if you want to replace the inner tie rod without bringing down the whole steering rack. In some makes you may not have enough room to fit a regular wrench.
adanny01: Satellite dish pole mount. I guess you intend to use it for towing rope.
A shackle will be a better option. You will find it among electricity high tension equipment. Better for the poly or nylon belt and easier/faster to install. Tension is not applied to the thread. Heavy duty vehicles use the shackle too.
Piyke: Finally sorted this out today! Yeeea! Culprit was as suspected; worn water pump bearing. I fitted a genuine GMB (made in Japan) and voila, noise gone. Video will be going up on my YouTube channel.
Piyke: I also replaced the bearing on the automatic tensioner pulley since the one out of the PS pump is not faulty. The one in the tensioner was made in China, I felt replacing it with the German one will be better. Still after this the noise remained. Latest plan is to replace water pump. Maybe its its bearing that is worn. Can't reach it well to spin. Anyways its still the one that came with the vehicle (>240k miles now) so it should be replaced anyways.
Finally sorted this out today! Yeeea! Culprit was as suspected; worn water pump bearing. I fitted a genuine GMB (made in Japan) and voila, noise gone. Video will be going up on my YouTube channel.
Piyke: Rebuilt my rear brakes yesterday; shoes, drum, all return springs, wheel cylinder(both had minor leaks), self-adjuster, retaining clips were all replaced.
Actually my attention was called to my rear breaks when I went in for my road worthiness test. The left side was said to be 60% less efficient than the right. Of course I failed the road worthiness test!
Should do a blog post once I'm done fixing the highlighted issues and get a pass.
Will be redoing the drum brakes. This chinko shoe brake is too noisy for my liking and the pin (on the brake) supposed to hold the adjuster lever is smaller than OEM. As a result, the parking does not auto adjust. Glad I got this Bosch part
Avedonn: Any synthetic 5w-20 but Mobile preferable
Change the oil after 3000 miles.
He said its Naija used o. Op I suggest you look for and read the comic thread GAZZUZZ made on an abused car that was upgraded to recommended oil weight. Since its Naija-used, choice of oil will depend on what the previous owner used and how regular he was with oil changes.
A safe approach will be to start with conventional or semi-sythetic 10w-40 and work your way down to 5w-20 after you confirm it doesn't burn oil excessively. In this transition time remember to check oil level regularly.
Just in case you want to buy the parts individually, ensure you get the 4AH battery if you intend getting 400Nm of torque. Multiple reports online on the 1.5AH not being able to take on serious tasks.
luvinhubby: Which Naija Honda owner can be willing to buy a ball joint for ₦32,000 each piece.
I did about 5 years ago and will do again if needed. I bet you that people that swap theirs every 6months will spend more if you add cost of the 6monthly ball joint, labour, risk of damage as the Monday hammer strikes etc.
ewizard1: Also my TEC does have this problem, whenever I run it for a long time like say 4 - 5 hours, it suddenly stops power supply, the voltage display goes off but the engine would still be running. I would have to turn it off, start it again before the power would come back. Could that be a problem?
I know what you mean. Mine has done it like 3 times since I bought it. Though not dependent on number of hours run. Mine is very random but in the 3 times it happened it did shortly after starting it. For this gen I strictly use the TEC repair team for maintenance. When I told them of it they didn't really provide specific feedback but the guy sha did some routine maintenance decarbonization, valve adjustment etc. Since that it's happened just once like a month ago (they did the repair in November of course I change the oil monthly approx). Maybe GAZZUZZ can help out since he actually started from generators lol
ewizard1: Warranty keh, I bought it Tokunbo in a warehouse so Warranty has vamoosed a long time ago . The remote system has been dislocated, some components: Relays etc which was placed under the control unit are missing. Just that the kick still works well. Also hand crank start is one time. I got a new 12V9AH Battery. Also the auto- choke still works, I love that part. It's because of these I want to install a remote.
Attached is the remote I plan to use for it. I have ordered it already.
I see! Sadly I have no experience with this kind of connection.
ewizard1: Hi Piyke, I read the thread and seems you could clear my doubt on an issue. I have the TEC 9200RS 6500W Optima Series, the Blue frame type.
I bought it with the Remote inoperable and would like to install a remote on it. I have ordered a 12V 2CH Remote switch to use. I have 2 start wires for the start, I would like to know what wire which when it touches the ground of the gen, the engine stops. (Used to notice in some gens) so I can put on the second channel of the remote to stop the gen.
And the issue of Fueled tap, you mean it's okay to leave it open for everyday use because that's the only thing spoiling the remote function.
Modifying will void your warranty. Why not call Thermocool to attend to the problem? They are quite good with warranty repairs or are you out of warranty? You checked the battery for the remote?
nylawal: Hello everyone, can someone pls pm me Piyke's phone number I need to vacuum pump my Ac I'm Abuja this morning Asap, this heat is killing. I have been in contact with Mosbus who told me there's an Abuja based guy that offers this service. Pls guys! Thanks in advance