₦airaland Forum

Are these item still relevant or technology has gone past them!

Sophieamore1:
THINGS YOU NEED TO SETUP THE CCTV.
8 SAMSUNG SDC-415-DAY/NIGHT CCTV CAMERAS.
8 TAMRON 1/3 TYPE, AUTO IRIS, VAN FOCAL, 3.5-8MM LENSES.
8 PELCO EH35 OUTDOOR CAMERA ENCLOSURE.
8 CHANNEL SAMSUNG SHR-2082 DVR, LCD MONITOR.
POSITION IT OUT OF THE HOUSE.

Good morning house.
Pls I need the idea of cost to install:
2 batteries (200ah each) 1200watts panel(do I go for 200×6 or 150×
Will 60a controller be ok

This is what I propose:
Panels 1200 watts
Controller 60a
Inverter 2.5kw
Battery 400ah

Cost of switches, changeover, cables etc should be factored in please. Thanks

Thanks

Pls house. I need a review on 3.00kva Microtek inverter. Thanks

he wants to get doge, link, matic and bnb worth 50000 naira.

olaolu11:
What do you say to these holdings. Which should be increased/decreased.

surrogatesng:
20,000

Is the fan still available. And how much? Thanjs

Greetings house. Please is there a repairman in ogun state that can repair a luminous inverter. Please drop your number or mail. Thanks

80, 100, and 150 watts panel price sir?

please gurus. how many bags of cement will lay 100 nine inches blocks? thank you

Merimental:
Lol. I was about to reply him until I saw 3k since January.

he's a small boy dat doesn't know Daddy has recharged ova 8 times since den.

H says they hardly stay at home. Anybody with ppm needs to learn energy saving and conservation. You have energy guzzling 63inchs TV, 10 units of 60 watts bulb that is always on. And you expect to use 5k light per month.
I also use ppm. In 5 yeas I have not bought up to 20k light and I still have 192 units on my meter. How did I do it? My bulbs are 5watts, I don't leave light on in rooms when we are not there. I use 36inchs flat screen TV with eco mode. Fridges and chest freezer are low wattage models. Ever heard of motion sensor security lights? And I incorporated solar April last year. If I decide today that I don't need NEPA/PHCN/IBEDC or whatever name they will bear tomorrow, I am good to go.
What we need to do is review appliances before we buy them. Why do I need it, what is the consumption, can I get a better one etc. To example, I had to rest one ox fan that guzzles 130watts for a boscon rechargeable fan that uses 40 watts. He fans rechargeable battery carries me for 9, 6 or 3 hours depending on whether I set it at low, medium of fast speed.Today, you need to think smart.

Pls kindly advise. How many watts panel and ah battery do I need to power 6units 5watts DC bulb only for 4 hours daily? Thanks.

My 3-bedroom building is presently at dpc level(I am doing the filling). I am seriously considering using cement stabilised bricks(mortar or mortarless, I am undecided on that yet). And i don't want to plaster both in and out. From pictures i have seen and actual construction sites visited, i realise I need to incorporate columns. I am guessing the columns are for load bearing for the roof structure. But, i do not have columns on the present structure. Do i break the necessary places and introduce the columns or it is too late? Also funds are not readily available so I am building as the funds come from savings and other means. What I am looking at is if I finally decide to go for bricks, I will suspend building and produce total bricks I need, get other materials ready for roofing and get everything done at once(laying of bricks and roofing) during a dry season. I can use the period of wait to gather all necessary materials and generally get ready. Please kindly advise. Thank you.

PS: is it colour that is added to the mortar to change the colour to the reddish brown?. If I decide on mortar as binder, I will prefer the colour to be same as the bricks and not the ash/white of normal cement( dangote/elephant etc). I just love bricks for the aesthetics.
I have about 450 9" blocks and 600 6" blocks on ground. I don't see hem as waste as I will used them to do 3 courses of blocks before completing the rest with bricks. The 6" leftovers can still be used for fencing. Thanks.[b][/b]

My 3-bedroom building is presently at dpc level(I am doing the filling). I am seriously considering using cement stabilised bricks(mortar or mortarless, I am undecided on that yet). And i don't want to plaster both in and out. From pictures i have seen and actual construction sites visited, i realise I need to incorporate columns. I am guessing the columns are for load bearing for the roof structure. But, i do not have columns on the present structure. Do i break the necessary places and introduce the columns or it is too late? Also funds are not readily available so I am building as the funds come from savings and other means. What I am looking at is if I finally decide to go for bricks, I will suspend building and produce total bricks I need, get other materials ready for roofing and get everything done at once(laying of bricks and roofing) during a dry season. I can use the period of wait to gather all necessary materials and generally get ready. Please kindly advise. Thank you.

PS: is it colour that is added to the mortar to change the colour to the reddish brown?. If I decide on mortar as binder, I will prefer the colour to be same as the bricks and not the ash/white of normal cement( dangote/elephant etc). I just love bricks for the aesthetics.
I have about 450 9" blocks and 600 6" blocks on ground. I don't see hem as waste as I will used them to do 3 courses of blocks before completing the rest with bricks. The 6" leftovers can still be used for fencing. Thanks.

My 3-bedroom building is presently at dpc level(I am doing the filling). I am seriously considering using cement stabilised bricks(mortar or mortarless, I am undecided on that yet). And i don't want to plaster both in and out. From pictures i have seen and actual construction sites visited, i realise I need to incorporate columns. I am guessing the columns are for load bearing for the roof structure. But, i do not have columns on the present structure. Do i break the necessary places and introduce the columns or it is too late? Also funds are not readily available so I am building as the funds come from savings and other means. What I am looking at is if I finally decide to go for bricks, I will suspend building and produce total bricks I need, get other materials ready for roofing and get everything done at once(laying of bricks and roofing) during a dry season. I can use the period of wait to gather all necessary materials and generally get ready. Please kindly advise. Thank you.

PS: is it colour that is added to the mortar to change the colour to the reddish brown?. If I decide on mortar as binder, I will prefer the colour to be same as the bricks and not the ash/white of normal cement( dangote/elephant etc). I just love bricks for the aesthetics.
I have about 450 9" blocks and 600 6" blocks on ground. I don't see hem as waste as I will used them to do 3 courses of blocks before completing the rest with bricks. The 6" leftovers can still be used for fencing. Thanks.

Pompoms:
I greet all the elders in the house.
Kindly, peruse this quote we got for the internal pipe work of a two bedroom bungalow (2 baths and 1 toilet).
Your opinions, please. Thank you, everyone.

Prices quoted is reasonable. He loaded a few of the materials though

EgunMogaji2:
Okay thanks.

If you don't mind please carry us (me) along with your progress.

Noted sir.

EgunMogaji2:
How large of a build will this be?

3 bedroom bungalow

Topmost11:
I want to use this. is cement stabilised soil blocks. Mix is sand: cement = 20:1. Is it advisable to use columns at all junctions (not because of aesthetics) but strength. Also I don't intend to plaster(in and out) as the blocks are drystack(I m also looking at the mortar joined one too). Also what do I do to the base(first 3 or 4 courses) that are susceptible to the elements(rain splashes). And finally, what about colour change due to mould? Thanks.

PS: normal foundation to dpc level will of course be normal cement blocks.

Drystack version is interlocked

I want to use this. is cement stabilised soil blocks. Mix is sand: cement = 20:1. Is it advisable to use columns at all junctions (not because of aesthetics) but strength. Also I don't intend to plaster(in and out) as the blocks are drystack(I m also looking at the mortar joined one too). Also what do I do to the base(first 3 or 4 courses) that are susceptible to the elements(rain splashes). And finally, what about colour change due to mould? Thanks.

PS: normal foundation to dpc level will of course be normal cement blocks.

https://www.globalnewsnig.com/exclusive-gosgra-properties-fraud-scandal/

What is the state of this issue. My sister has a stake there.

How many blocks will go right round a land of 50 by 100 ie perimeter? Thanks

NiyiOmoIyunade:
A typical lead acid battery will die a very early death if you regularly use 75% of the stored energy - this is what 150Ah out of 200Ah means.

Under favorable conditions, 600w of panels MAY produce enough energy to fully recharge a single 12v 200Ah battery especially if not depleted beyond 50% - In practice, we size the panels based on combined KwH of energy to be restored into battery and used for running loads during solar hours. So you may find you need 900w or more of panels per 12v 200Ah battery depending on what your day time loads are.

I would not use 150w panels except I got them for free - there is a lot more headroom and typically better price to capacity and installed foot print ratio for the larger (say 300w and bigger) panels.

Many times we end up with 150 watts panels because our inverter is 12v. Others are 24v.

rotecch77:
-Odorless
-No evacuation of sludge water
-minimal space required
-Low cost of construction to older system
- Environmental friendly
- Good for ALL terrains
- just 3days to construct the system

Can this system be done while building is at foundation level, and left unused until building is finished. How is the resultant water/effluent evacuated. Are you saying there is no disadvantage at all. One needs to know what he is getting into so as to be prepared. Thanks.

Pls, do I still need columns for this foundation. It is at DPC level now. 4 coaches in front and 6 at the back. Sloppy land but solid.
1. Do i step it down the rooms down to reduce filling( I don't realy want to do that) more so when you say foundation should not be more than 6 coaches.
2. Where should the door to guest toilet be, in the living room or outside?
3. how much will it cost for DPC to be done.
4.There I this black nylon they put that I always see.
5 What is the difference between it and the layer of concrete they put on top of this level of block?
6. I want to dig soakaway and septic tank and use the filling. Do I need 2 soakaway ( bathroom/kitchen waste water) and the normal toilet waste water. Or just channel the bathroom waste to the normal soakaway?
7.Will the sand be enough to do the filling(I have learnt here that filling is done in layers.)

I will post picture of dimension shortly

This is double wall done in the foundation, is it okay and would prevent collapse/ gaps/breakaway in future? Also, if I can't afford German floor, what else can I do for I am told not doing it leads to wet walls. And should I fill laterite or continue the structure and do laterite later. Thanks

I am glad to stumble upon this thread. How many bags of cement is needed to set/lay 100 9" blocks, 6" blocks? Because the land is sloppy, the bricklayer says it will take 6 coach(blocks) in height at some parts. He says he will use double wall at such places to avoid future wall collapse. Pls, is this right, or he should put pillars at all junctions.

Pls criticize this basic plan for a 3 bedroom bungalow. Thanks

harizonal123:
Pls can doctors in the house help me interpret. I'm interested in the area where they mentioned types of abnormalities

Where can one do this test. Any idea of cost. I am new to this thread

I am also interested

durodee:
True BUT the issue of "you better do better" is what chases some people away from solar energy thinking it's too expensive. People buy and use I PASS MY NEIGHBORS Gen readily just to power some things in the house and not use generator to power their fridge etc ever or buy a bigger generator. Must someone upgrade? No!! Or because of possible upgrade in the future allow Heat to suffer my head now? No again!!
I sincerely think she should and could use her proposed system as it is. If she so wishes to upgrade then let her ask for advice.
My view only. Half cooked meal is better than none.

Half cooked meal is better than none.
I give it to you sir. I've not laughed since this corona thing started.

@ ololadeajayi
Pls where did you get the 17 watts uka fan. The ones on jiji and Julia I see have their reviews for the 3blade as 45watts and the 5blade 40 watts.

BetaTechnicians:
Bros wake up before you post na

Oga mi, you get juju and jazz combined o. I truly dey sleep when I post o. Meself dey laugh.
I wanted to post 1000v and 2000v. Sorry

Anyone has any or all of this? Pls give cost. Thanks

150 watts panel
souer inverter
0ah cc